Hindenzerg1266

Good evening all, I got some beautiful carbs from ZTherapy around the middle of last year, and I'm having a hard time getting my idle down. I know that carbs are supposed to be the last thing that you tune, but how do I set the ignition timing is right when I can't get the idle under 2500 RPM? Looking for some advice. Here is some other info/things I've done so far: Checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner just about every time I turn the car on to warm up Replaced PCV valve Head is rebuilt, had to shave it down a little bit due to a blown head gasket from the previous owner Checked valve lash with feeler gauges (cold set and then hot check) Checked Head Bolt torque to ensure that's not an issue Dry compression test, all cylinders between 135 and 140 except #6 which was about 130 Will do a wet compression test tomorrow What would your next steps be? Thanks!

Good evening all, In the process of chasing down a high idle problem, and I decided to check everything was correct at TDC while I waited on some gaskets to come in. I have the car at TDC, on the compression stroke, both the valves in cylinder 1 are closed (I have the valve cover off to check them), my screwdriver is about halfway through the "lull" to tell me the #1 piston is at it's highest point, and the timing arrow is pointing to the 0 degree mark. HOWEVER, the keyed shaft (forgive me, I believe it's from the oil pump) from the oil pump to the distributor looks like it's off ~11-13 degrees. There are 32 teeth on the oil pump shaft right? So 1 tooth off would be ~11.25 degrees? Going to take a look at it this week, but just wanted to show some pictures and see what you all thought. I took the picture, threw it into OnShape, and then threw in the 5 degree line that the FSM calls out as what we're looking for. Thanks!

Dang, not sure. It wasn't much, but definitely needed to be "pushed" out instead of just banged on or pulled by hand. BE CAREFUL WITH A SCREWDRIVER! Don't pry on the advance setting plate or anything because it's easy to bend. Just get the puller

Success! Ended up getting a 3 Prong Bearing Puller from O'reilly's and was able to make it work with a 19 mm socket as my "pusher" and reacting the load into the beefier flange of the distributor pedestal. Thanks @NewZed and @ETl2k! I didn't quite make it work with the weights hanging as you suggested, but heating it up with the heat gun and a lot of elbow grease/PB Blaster made it happen. Here's some pictures of the puller setup:

The pictures I posted above (except for the one where I said it's from an Ebay posting) ARE from my distributor when it was off the car and in my hand. And yea, it's definitely odd, that's why I'm posting in a forum to talk with other folks who have a more detailed knowledge about weird things that happen on 50 year old cars instead of just doing the job Man... why's everyone get so greater than thou on these forums? We are all interested in these things at the end of the day right? I'll post a few pictures in a bit of the setup I'll be trying based on what ET12K suggested.

This is a great idea, I'll take a crack at it in the morning with a fresh cup of coffee and a lot more patience

Thanks for your help, but that darker brown plate (the more rusted one above and to the left of your red line) is actually free to turn around the "shank" of the distributor in that picture. I'm pretty sure I should be able to spin the distributor inside of the "Spacer" right? In normal operation, when it's on the car, you're correct. You loosen the 8 mm (I think it's 8 mm, the head is 8 mm) that holds the distributor (and that rusted plate) to the "spacer", and then you rotate the entire assembly. In the pictures I shared, that bolt is already removed, the rusted plate spins freely, and the distributor and spacer are fused together HARD.

Hey all, Sorry, been searching around here and a couple other Z forums, and haven't found anything where someone seems to have this same problem. On my 72 I've been in the process of trying to install some Z-Therapy carbs, but have started by tuning procedure on the ignition system. When I'm trying to advance or retard the timing I CANNOT turn the distributor in the distributor spacer (mounting bracket, block, whatever it's called). I've removed both the bolts (10 mm and 8 mm) which should have let the distributor turn and nothing. I've given it wacks with my rubber mallet, busted out a decent sized pry bar, and all along the way I've been covering the joint in PB Blaster. What's the deal... Here are some pictures to hopefully illustrate what I'm talking about. Thanks so much for your help.