DonH
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Posts posted by DonH
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On 4/10/2022 at 7:31 AM, turbo240 said:
The first place I looked. Maybe they used to or I'm completely blind.
I Had issues until I changed my search terms
Oldchool guys call these "window fuzzies" hah!
Last one - you trim to fit with a angle grinder. use your old one for angle to be cut. Then use the smallest black pop rivets you can find. The staples are a PITA without the right tool and come loose if done by hand
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Congrats on Picking it back up! I would suggest you force libricate your engine again after sitting for 10 years.
I can't comment on the headers and electric PS - But I can comment on the Radiator Fan.
In my talks with a Holley guru over on ls1tech he conviced me to go with a C7 Z06 radiator fan. When I purchased it it was $239 shipped. Its a 3000CFM at full tilt fan and is pretty massive. It has a built in shroud which with some trimming I made to fit on my core which was a universal GM core from eBay for $150...
The fan is a SPAL unit, with built in -PWM controller. All you need to do is get the proper plug kit for it as well as suitable size wiring (I used 8awg power and ground wire)
Hope this helps!
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On 11/23/2021 at 7:01 AM, 280Z-LS3 said:
I placed a Sanden SD-7B10 A/C Compressor where you put the alt. Made similar 1/4" plate mount brackets. Have yet to make my spacers to align compressor and idler pulleys. Nice work as usual.
I went with truck spacing accessories and was able to fit a truck alternator AFTER clocking the casing 90* to move the positive post away from the motor mount. I also have a sanden low mount using dirty dingo's low mount and had to notch the motor mount location.
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I also love and appreciate your no BS approach to this. Also your note about expanding foam. Im going to be doing this now on my LS Build!! I LOVE IT. What do you protect the outside portions of the engine bay when using expanding foam? Im thinking of making an engine cover with this approach.
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Mark, Your build is awe inspiring
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On 10/5/2021 at 5:58 AM, Richard Oben said:
DonH, Thanks, it was a pain, 3 years or more of fighting this. Two problems, both on NEW parts, almost burnt it down. The rubber mount came from searching LS1 tech website and from a local tuner who is big into LS cars.
On a the plus side, go drive yours, the car will be a blast, just crazy how much fun it is. Torque on demand, 70 MPH is 2k rpm even with 3.73 gears, AC and tunes. Not modern comfort but not a bad place to be. R
Just got her back from paint! Putting her all together again. Can’t wait!
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Awesome job so far! I would say the same for Interior Innovations. I ordered mine through them as well. My seats did come out much tighter on the leather than yours. Few notes for other's attempting tp re-cover seats.
- Re-use the old metal framing / ties as they are surprisingly a decent quality piece of metal.
- Ditch the Wire ties and use only hog rings. Takes some practice but a 45 degree hog ring plier work WONDERS. Start in the center of the flap attachment
- Get new seat cushions - they were $300 pre-covid price increases. I needed to trim the head rest down 1.4" (Sliced off the back side) and I trimmed down the driver cushion so my head wasn't hitting the roof.
- Use the thinner cushion backed headliner material glued to the back of the seat. it makes sliding the covers on SO MUCH EASIER and has a very nice look and feel.
Nice job! cant wait to see her done man!
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Good luck! please document if you can make it happen under $100 because i need a bead roller and cant afford the conversion / dont want to haha
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awesome stuff man! i need to make an airbox for my intake as well!
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10 minutes ago, Richard Oben said:
Update again. Even with Rubber mount, still could hear the shifter rattle at 2000 RPM of engine speed about 1100 drive shaft speed.
We had the drive shaft re tubed by the group that did the shaft originally. Better but not right, blurred rear view mirror at 65 mph. Took CVs off so all we had was shaft trans and differential. Still vibrated, this is when we did the rubber mount above. Took shaft out again and had it balanced, better but still not good. Took trans out and had the rear housing replaced (stripped drain plug) and some other stuff done. Mainly had the main shaft triple checked. Back together and still a small but annoying shifter rattle.
In a last ditch effort before ordering a CV drive shaft we had the shaft remade by another vendor. Voila, finally can drive the car at any speed with only a minuscule vibration and they just be the LS as I can hear the same harmonic in a lot of You tube videos. Took multiple attempts but putting the miles on now is much more pleasant.
Sad this forum isn't busier. Richard.
Nice way to dig into this... Curious as I have a polly mount on my LS Z but only put about 30 miles and never gone above 50mph. Ill report back to you if i dont have these vibration issues.
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Ive got one! sent you a PM
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3 hours ago, 280Z-LS3 said:
I know! House remodel has garage play time sidelined. That said have little time right now so started installing the Griffin 1.25" dual core radiator and C7 Spal fan. Will post up some progress photos soon.
The basic Super 8.8 swap kit is Invincible Extremes. You can find him in the vendors section.
D1t is the guy who designed my front end and new rear knuckles. He responded to this thread a few posts back, private message him.
Nice call on the C7 fan! Its what im using
Will keep their contact noted.
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Dude - your build needs more attention! Amazing job so far i cant wait to see it done man!
Who is the contact that designed the rear end? Im currently a LS base build but will eventually add a supercharged and I know my Z31 CV's will take a shit
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Do yourself a favor,
but the Inteiror Innovations and be done with it. I was held up on the leather and coat… pulled the trigger and LOVE the fit and finish for the price. It was not a hard process either!
Long time follower and your work is top notch. I tried to hunt online for months for bucket seats, tried a few from other cars and they just didn’t look / fit right. So I overhauled my OEM seats!
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On 9/2/2020 at 2:57 PM, mrk3cobra said:
Looks like I will be retiring early next year, The money will help with retirement. I will not sell if I do not get what I think the car is worth.
Ironhead yes I definitely like doing the build more then driving the finished product. I have built many cars in the past. This is my forth 240Z build, the other three were stock builds and I sold all of them within 1 year of finishing the projects.
Pete
On 6/16/2021 at 1:52 PM, mrk3cobra said:It is a sad day today, the LS2 240Z Auction started today on bringatrailer.com.
Pete
I hope it brings what you see the cars value AND plenty of smiles for the new owner! Heck that’s why we build these cars! Some to enjoy the build process, some to enjoy the finished product! Best of luck
-Don
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still available? tried PM
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Before you wire that switch direct to your Column and starter signal be SURE and 100% that your 12v+ while cranking also works for your ECU / Fuel injectors / Fuel pump signal. Many times this contact is shorted on the old ignition / key module. MSA sells a replacement for it as well.
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Do you have any spoilers fro a 2+2?
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On 1/19/2021 at 7:25 AM, 280Z-LS3 said:
DonH, what did you use for radiator mount? Seems there are a few ways to mount universal radiators...
Hey man, I used some 2" aluminum to mount it to the top and bottom portions of the radiator.... i would have like to weld side mounts to use the stock holes but I dont own a TIG welder
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You're not worried about chewing that transmission to shreds behind a LS?
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Depends on computer you will use.... I went DBC for a few reasons - I wanted to use the Holley Terminator X - $1000 model... So i went DBC - Cheap and reliable and can be make to look nice on the install. DBW would be amazing also for a cleaner look. If staying stock computer and your engine you buy has a DBW setup - run DBW. So long as you have the pedal and what not.
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Nice! I did the Tanks Inc. PA-4 for my LS swap. Love it! Nice and quiet!
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On 10/2/2020 at 12:45 PM, SH4DY said:
You guys are missing what I'm saying - the cooling system is cooling too well. It's getting too cold. I'm not worried about the temps during stop and go traffic - I'm more concerned about the coolant temps not getting above 150 on a cool night.
ummmmm why not run a PWM brushless fan and adjust accordingly... Running to cold, reduce the fan speed. to hot, increase the fan speed.
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congrats! Nice job on the fire extinguisher as well!
Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Man what a cool build to follow along! Amazing job so far! How do you like the sound of the mufflers? I recently put the Dynomax super turbo on mine after having a race bullet. LOVE how much more mellow it is. Dont feel like I los tmuch power either