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zboi

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Posts posted by zboi

  1. I am running 275s in the rear, and the tires just barely scuff the inner quarter. I could get away with flaring the fenders, but they are all full of bondo and thus any attempt to flare results in cracking bondo. That said, its the perfect opportunity to hide them with some flares or replace them. 

    So question is, is there any quarters that come with small flares built in? Otherwise I need to find some small flares (like 1cm-1inch), but all I see are bigger 2"+ flares.

    Anybody have recommendations on what I can run.

  2. Tire to fender lip was getting contact, as was strut body to rim. The wheels are rota rkr 5 x 114.3, max I could get them in was -20 offset. I got one side pretty well fitted now. Have a cm of clearance between the tire and inner tub, and maybe 4mm between strut and rim. Tire tucks for the most part.

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  3. Car is street and track days use. I'm running 17x9.5 -20mm offset rear wheels, 275/40 tire. I was getting contact on the wheel lip at about an inch of before hitting the inner wheel tub. I don't want fender flares, and to get them to tuck with this size I need to get them right next to the inner wheel tub. I have stock rear struts with coil over sleeves on them, so 3" diameter springs and 10" long. Right now the springs end right at the bottom of that pocket the strut goes in, which is also right where the wheel lip is about. Maybe a shorter spring would also help.

    What length coilover springs do people run?

  4. I'm running a knuckle off a different vehicle so get to attach the strut to the top of it any way I want. I also plan on using a camber plate to slide the strut further inboard towards the diff, I have coilovers on the car so the diameter of the strut assembly is smaller. My main concern is the force being applied to the strut tower. It will place more force in the vertical plane, not sure if that matters though.

  5. On 4/27/2020 at 7:08 PM, fusion said:

    I did email ohmster many days ago and asked him to respond.  I am surprised he chose not to.

     

    I brought up these issues when I received my cradle. The response I got was:
    "I'll ask the engineering team to revisit the cradle design, but as far as costumers are concerned, we have sold close to 50 kits of the standard (32 shipped), and 28 of the double wishbone (14 shipped) with 0 complaints besides powder-coating getting damaged, and/or hardware missing. Plus we are the only company that designed a rear differential subframe, and only company that designed a double wishbone set up in a car that never came with it. You could go with Z car depot that the front mounting tabs will bend and tear under high power loads or could go with T3s kit which was known to bend the front mounts and tear in a similar way as the Z car one."

     

    Which sounds to me like they don't care as long as people buy them. Worth noting, I've heard complaints that they didn't have any axles to ship with these kits until now, so most likely there has been no real road time with any of these kits yet.

  6. 22 hours ago, zboi said:

     There is the stock bushing on the front of the diff to the cradle, but then there is just a rubber bushing shoved in as a washer between the diff cover bolts to the mounting tab, which will not provide any dampening in the direction of torque.

    I suggest you take the time to read what I wrote @tim.d

  7. There is no bushing where the front of the cradle attaches. There is only bushing on the mustache bar. Thus the cradle is half solid mounted half soft mounted. There is the stock bushing on the front of the diff to the cradle, but then there is just a rubber bushing shoved in as a washer between the diff cover bolts to the mounting tab, which will not provide any dampening in the direction of torque. They oddly kept the clamshell mounts on the front to bolt the cradle to the car, but without a bushing what is the point? A bushing will not fit in there as they made the cradle tubing so large. They should have just welded the clam to the cradle. These obvious flaws indicate that there was no "engineering" done when this was designed. 

  8. The kit sucks, doesn't fit a 240z. Will only allow 275 tires in stock wheel well (for the fancy cantilever version). The bushings are done wrong and don't function. The company has the worst sales rep I have ever dealt with, been waiting a year to get all my stuff in, and I'm still waiting...

  9. Parts taken off of a 73 240z:

     

    Location:

    Durham North Carolina

     

    !** I'll sell everything together for $50 for local pickup **!

     

    R180 rear end with axles -$30

    Stock refurbished radiator -$40 SOLD

    2x rear aluminum drums - $50

    Frigiking dealer added AC unit - $25

    Expansion tank with hoses -$25

     

     

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  10. On 9/2/2019 at 9:15 PM, JQADDINGMACHINE said:

    it cools wonderfully like this with no shroud and a small fan I pulled from what I think was a Kia Optima at a junkyard. high 90 degree days in traffic I never saw over 215f coolant temp. I think the 2 factory vents on my 280z hood really help extract heat from the engine bay.

     

    Impressive that that is cooling well. Well I'll be going the smaller fan, stock radiator, less work route then. Shame I already did some now unnecessary trimming to the core support.

  11. Trying to find out how everyone with a turbo ls engine are doing as far as cooling. Especially if using a stock size radiator. 

    I am doing a turbo swap and can just barely squeeze in a stock sized radiator in the stock location but can only fit 1 14" fan offset to one side. Otherwise I can get a slightly longer but narrower radiator ("double pass" style with side tanks) to fit if installed at an angle. It can fit a 16" fan in that position, but obviously is going to be a bit of work to mount. Any thoughts on which route to go?

  12. I did the cx kit, was cheap and easy initially but is now causing difficulties. It mounts the engine high and the motor mounts make it so you cant use factory ac mounting locations as well as limiting the alternator setback. Looking now the apex engineered piece looks better and will allow you to run better suspension. Seems it may still cause interference with the AC though.

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