Jump to content
HybridZ

zboi

Donating Members
  • Posts

    110
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by zboi

  1. @toffee You know you can just do an image search to see where the engine sits, but spoiler it is behind the crossmember. I don't know why this matters so much though. The main thing I don't like about the VQ is the intake manifold with the rear exit, which means you have to chop off your factory hood latch and fit in some other form of latch instead. A turbo L-series will make over 300hp, but all the wear item parts on the L-series are becoming way overpriced. The LS family is the best for the money by far, and the arguably best manual transmission in the world is what bolts to them natively. Also you can fit an LS and TR6060/magnum in the car with the only modification to factory metal being some clearance of the stock transmission crossmember ears. 

  2. Does anyone run a knock sensor, particularly with a turbo car? I run two in the two holes at the top of the block, and get a lot of knock retard at higher rpms and higher boost. Its showing some pretty extreme retard, but the way it is pulling it at higher RPM under no load/boost makes me think that this is false knock. I see no physical signs of knock, and don't have any audible knock. I've attached a spark retard snapshot along with the final spark advance table to go with it. I've read of folks running more timing at the same boost levels, but then again I've read of plenty of folks blowing head gaskets too.

    I'm running on 93 octane pump gas.

    This is a stock n42/n42
     

    sparkAdvance.png

    sparkRetard.png

  3. Looks like the motor is okay after all, 5 of my coils were on their way out and causing some misfires especially in boost. This must have been washing the cylinder and increasing blowby. A set of 6 coils for $60 and things are looking great. Now my VE tables need readjusting, but then dyno.

    • Like 1
  4. Got this back together again. Lash checked and adjusted this time, lesson learned. Still smokes in boost, so looks like this motor's rings are just not up to the task of holding much boost, odd because it makes good compression across the board. At least the oil leaks are gone. Thinking I should sell this motor and find a lower mileage one, this one would be great NA. 

  5. Well I pulled the head, fixed the gaskets, ported it a little and thought I may as well slap some new valves in because there was a couple suspicious looking ones. 
    Got it all back together and fired up drove for a minute and had low power and some clacking. Looks like those new valves either had some inconsistencies in stem length, or the lash pads were wore into the old ones, I found three lashpads popped off when I pulled the valve cover, 1 rocker arm sideways, and one valve lock popped out from that sideways rocker arm. I didn't think that a new set of valves would cause so much problems, but guess my luck sucks.
    I noticed quite a bit of play in other lashpads too.
    I should pull the head again, but mannnnn I dont want too. That sideways rocker has me scared.

  6. Yep I got smoke on cold starts, and the car is hard to start after sitting. Also seen oil on spark plug threads. I had gotten a felpro gasket set for the timing chain job I did, so may as well pull the head and replace all those seals. It will at the very least stop the oil from getting all over the engine bay and onto my header. 

  7. I just tried driving around with the block breather hose disconnected, which would be analogous of the dual vents/catch cans. Still have the leak showing up and only under boost. I'm thinking this is bad valve stem seals, I can smell the oil start to leak and burn as soon as the boost starts kicking in good. I also had the breather hose positioned where I could see it while driving, and didn't notice any crazy amount of mist or smoke. However, after doing some boosted runs I see some white smoke in the valve cover area, and it smells like burning oil. 

  8. Probably also important, the engine is a L28, and the PCV valve is the factory one (as far as I know). I just read there is supposedly a difference in the turbo and non-turbo PCV valve. Is that true?

  9. I'm experiencing some high crankcase pressure when in boost, to the point where I have oil coming from the dipstick (seal on that is worn out so I can maybe fix that) and also also shooting like a jet out of the timing cover to cylinder head junction. The timing chain to cylinder head junction is due to the head gasket having torn there. Now I'm not 100% as I haven't been able to look at the leak under boost, but the aftermath is oil getting all the way to the firewall and shock towers with oil puddles at that gasket junction, so I'm suspecting there is some high pressure involved.
    My current PCV is the factory block tube to manifold, PCV valve seems to work fine from the me blowing in it test, and then a valve cover breather. I see people recommending instead of the breather going to the air filter, but I just have a cone filter directly on the turbo, and not sure how I would achieve that.
    Is there any other advice how to remedy this? I really really don't want to pull the head to replace that gasket, and it does not leak at all while not under boost (plus this would just make the next weakest link leak. I'm surprised that the pressure isn't relieved by the valve cover breather honestly. 
    Compression is showing pretty good 165 on 5 cylinders 175 on another, but no idea on what the mileage on this motor is.

  10. Finally got this thing tuned right, kept fighting an issue where the car would break up on quick throttle changes and in boost. Engine had NGK b6es-11 plugs, I went to a NGK bpr7es and all my problems disappeared. Engine is leaking oil pretty bad though from what looks like where the timing cover and cylinder head meet, l am genuinely amazed at how much oil can come out of there. The stock head gasket was torn there, and I RTVed it up a lot after the fact. Maybe my PCV valve is faulty and pressurizing that area under boost?
    Once I get this oil leak handled Ill take it to the dyno.

    • Like 2
  11. If my L28 poops out I'll put one of these in. Looks like it will fit with oil pan modification and crossmember modification, or with a competition hood. He incorrectly states that the E67 ECU is not the one to get for boost, no idea why he is pushing that lie, but it is the best one for boost. I am using it now.

  12. Alrighty got it driving now. First issue was my brand new Bosch O2 sensor was bad, it was always reading the same value. Swapped with an AC Delco and it was fine. Second my scan tool was by default adding bank 1 and bank 2 O2 sensor readings together, problem being there is no bank 2 so bank 2 was always pegged rich and throwing off the reading. Using just the bank 1 reading things are looking great. Will dial the tune in all the way and then connect the charge pipe for some boost. 
    This poor little L28 has been through so much abuse lol. 

  13. Tuning this thing has been difficult. Keeps saying that its running way rich, even when I've adjusted the VE table down like 90%. 
    One issue that bit me, I had swapped cylinder 4 and 2 because the internet said the firing order was different between the L28 and atlas. Well the internet as usual is filled with idiots. The firing order is the same between the motors, noticed something off when rough idle wouldn't go away and the 4/2 cylinders felt a lot cooler.

  14. 58x reluctor for a Chevy 2.4 ecotec came in. It is neutral balanced, lighter, and conveniently has 3 holes for bolts that are exactly in the same place as the pulley face. If you wanted you could drill and tap the pulley and this would screw on. I just put some plug welds on instead. Engine now runs normal!

    It is leaking some oil from where the timing cover meets the cylinder head. The head gasket overhanging bit was all broken when I pulled the timing chain cover and I didn't want to pull the head to change it. Seems a lot more oil leaks down there than I expected, hopefully some beads of RTV on the exterior fix that.

    20231027_172157_HDR.jpg

    20231028_141721.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...