Jump to content
HybridZ

JMortensen

Donating Members
  • Posts

    13726
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    61

Everything posted by JMortensen

  1. I'm not sure what the heck is going on with this thing. I know this forum is probably not the place to ask, but I'm pretty stuck. A week before I moved the old engine developed a nasty knock. So off I go to buy a rebuilt longblock since I don't have time to build one right now, and now its running, but this weird problem develops. Now I'm right in the middle of moving and it's still acting strange. I may just have to take the truck to a Toy specialist. All of my friends in CA were mechanics, and a few of them were particularly good with 22RE's, but none of them has a clue what could be causing this problem. I'd prefer triples and an O2 sensor anyday. Kinda backwards, I know. I did change plugs and wires, cap and rotor looked good, BTW. Jon
  2. Doesn't heating spring steel like that take the temper out of the steel? One fellow Z freak I know snapped his R180 bar after years of autocrossing - he was also known to lay some rubber down on the street pretty often. I hope you don't have the same experience... Jon
  3. Just to give the opposing view here, I drove my Z with 200 in/lb springs in front and 250 in/lb in back, camber plates, TC rods with rod ends, front control arms with rod ends, sway bars, G Machine bushings in back and poly bushings everywhere else on the street as a daily driver for 3+ years. I did turn my Tokicos down to 1 when on the street, but everyone who rode in it only complained of noise, not a rough ride. A couple of times after an autocross I forgot to switch the struts back, and that was brutal, I admit. My setup is way more extreme than most would consider for street driving, but I did it for a long time, and still drive the car to autocrosses (haven't gone in awhile though). I think stiffer sway bars are a must if you're going to drive it hard... Jon
  4. Clifton, have you seen the video? They hook birfields into a jig and pull on them with a lever and a FORKLIFT. The "super" birfields shear the axle shaft (and they have big shafts) before the CV breaks. AMAZING! Lots of Toyota guys are trying to get Dana 44 axles to fit into the front, I'd go Super Birf anyday. Great idea about having him do a ZX CV. I'm sure they would be bulletproof if he will do them. Jon
  5. John, I suppose for that price you get to choose all of your gear ratios. That must be pretty damn cool. Isn't it possible to get a Jehrico with straight cut gears and adapt sequential shifting mechanism onto it? I wonder if that would work with a T-5 turbo bellhousing... Not that I'm looking into this myself. Just curious. Jon
  6. Most masters that I've come across come with a "bleeding kit" which is 2 short pieces of vacuum hose. you just set the master in a vise, route the hoses from the bleeder screws right back to the reservoirs, and pump the master with a screwdriver. The problem is that when it shoots air into the reservoirs the fluid gets thousands of tiny bubbles in it, which kinda ruins the whole "getting air out of the system" thing. The original problem in this post was obviously that the guy had the rear calipers on the wrong sides. If the bleeders are on the bottom, you're going to be bleeding forever, unless you have a rotisserie to help you out... Jon
  7. I've been able to get my 3/8 impact on the halfshaft bolts with a long extension. You just need to rotate the wheel until the U-joint moves enough to get the socket on. Jon
  8. My pleasure. That's why we're all here... Jon
  9. There is another way to retain the axles, I've never seen it done in a Z, but I've seen it in Ford TTB front axles when installing aftermarket LSD's that don't have circlip grooves. You pull apart the slip yoke and put a spring in there, so that it is always pushing the 2 halves of the axles apart. There is still some room for compression, but the stub axles won't work themselves out. Works for F150's that are rockcrawling, should work for Z's. The trick would be finding a spring that is the right diameter. Jon
  10. I just put a long block in my '93 Toy 2wd. I am having a strange problem with the AFM. It is honking! Sounds like a very quiet car horn. It does this at idle, but then it seems to go away when the truck warms up or when RPMS get over about 2000 (no tach, so that's my best guess). The only previous experience I have messing with this AFM is about 10 years ago I opened it up and richened the mixture to go with a camshaft I had purchased. Other than that, its been doing its job with no complaints. I am not really fond of FI, and I don't really know much about it. Maybe if I was a little more FI friendly I'd learn something about it so I didn't have to ask questions... I also had a idle surging problem, to fix that I cleaned the throttle body and reset the TPS. That seems to have fixed the surge, but I still have no clue on the honking AFM. Any help appreciated. Jon
  11. A real Daytona wouldn't have 6 spoke ZX wheels on it... Jon
  12. I just thought of something. If your mechanic didn't use a "sleeve" to put the valve stem seals on he may have ripped them. This sleeve I'm referring to is like a drinking straw that is tapered at one end, and you just slide it over the valve spring retainer groove. If you don't use one, then the seal gets caught in the groove, and it is very easy to cut the seal. If you do a normal compression test, you can tell if you've got bad rings or bad valves. Just check the compression then squirt a little oil in the cylinder and do the check again. If the compression jumps up, then you've got bad rings. Jon
  13. If that's the stand up unit with wheels to roll around like a dolly then it is the quietest compressor I have ever heard. My buddy has had one for a few years now. I envy you both. Jon
  14. Mid 80's Civic or Integra blower fan bolts right into the early 240 Z just make 2 new wires, not sure about the later Z's. It gives more airflow, still not "blow your hair back" power. I read once about putting a GN (or Regal I suppose) blower in. Don't remember the specifics, I think it required more mods. That was really supposed to push the air around. I always equated the stock fan's power to having an 80 year old with emphyzema stuck under the dash breathing on you. Jon
  15. Check http://www.zhome.com in the technical articles there is some info. Jon
  16. Isn't that the usual MO of a bad module? Gets hot, won't work, cools off, works fine? Vapor lock could be caused by the heat too, I suppose... The engine would definitely have heat soaked while sitting in the parking lot, so don't count heat out yet. I've got a mechanical temp gauge on my Z, probe mounted in the thermostat housing and it will run at 190, turn it off it for 5 minutes, and the temp is at 210 or 215. Start it up, coolant circulates, and it immediately goes back down. Jon
  17. I agree with you BOZ, but I think it's worse than that. I think if you are under heavy braking there would be a tendency to twist the TC clevis bracket off the control arm as well, especially when braking hard on a rough road or track. I know there isn't a whole heck of a lot of movement in the TC rods, but there's got to be a pretty substantial force applied to the rod when braking and a vertical force from going over bumps simultaneously, especially on slicks. At least the stock unit relied on 2 bolts spreading the load over the top of the whole control arm, and had a bit of a damper in the TC and control arm bushings. I much prefer the design I have, which is much the same as the now defunct ZFR design. Only difference is mine uses 3/4" rod end and turnbuckle. All that said, I haven't heard anyone complaining of broken AZZC control arms. Yet. Jon
  18. You can cut the race with a dremel tool either with a cutoff wheel, or if the opening is too small with a grinding burr. Once you cut it it will probably fall out on its own. Just try not to cut into the flywheel. A little scratch won't hurt, but don't put a huge notch in the flywheel. Jon
  19. JMortensen

    lsd?

    The finned cover will fit any R200, but they stick out about 3 inches off the back of the diff, so you would need to make a new mustache bar (still called that in 280ZX right???) to fit. Stock unit won't even be close. Jon
  20. If the car isn't going to be ultra stiff and low, I'd go for the rear sway bar. Even on street tires when you are at a reasonable height and spring rate, the car will still lean quite a bit under hard cornering. For the rear if you're just looking for a sporty ride, go poly on control arms and mustache bar. With the coilovers you mentioned and some good struts, there's not much more to do, unless you want to start changing toe settings, at which point you can go with G Machine bushings or adjustable control arms. For street driving that's probably more trouble than its worth, unless you find that you've got one of John C's newly discovered faulty strut housings. Stock control arms put rear toe right at 0 if I remember correctly, which is where a lot of racers like it. Jon
  21. I think rags was asking if you had your manifold extrude honed, Cody. Extrude honing won't remove huge amounts of metal. You need to port the manifold with a die grinder, then extrude hone if you want the super polished effect. Jon
  22. I agree with John C, Motul 600 or I've also used ATE Super Blue. Jon
  23. I have taken my Arizona Z Car flywheel to 3 machinists now. Every one of them said "WOW! Do you have a scattershield?" No kidding. The same with all 3. It is THIN. The last one told me to use this dye on it. I can't remember the name of the stuff (chem-dye???), but I'm sure someone here will know what it is. Anyway, you put the dye on the metal surface, let it sit for so long, then clean it all off. Then you spray this white foam on the metal, and wherever there is a crack, the dye will wick out and you can see it. The flywheel passed the test, so I stuck it back in. I also made some small 1/4" plate guards that cover the driver's and passenger's feet. I talked to a long time drag racer, and he said that a kevlar tranny blanket would work to control the flywheel. I called Summit and they said no, so I don't know what to think. Certainly it wouldn't hurt. There has to be a good option for those of us who still use Nissan trannies. Anyone else have a good idea, or an opinion on the kevlar blanket??? Jon
  24. I adapted the Mikuni linkage to my Cannon manifold and had a set of 3/4" velocity stacks made because the 3" stacks won't fit inside the fender on the long manifold. Jon
×
×
  • Create New...