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RefreshRate

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Posts posted by RefreshRate

  1. 22 minutes ago, Chickenman said:

    Can you go 440cc or 550cc? Those are more common sizes.  You can also bump the FP on 440's a bit to get the equivalent of 480's. 52 psi at idle instead of  43.5 would do it. Actually, 500cc or 550cc with pressure lowered a bit may be better. BTW... you can run bigger injectors than necessary. Just less maximum duty cycle.  Guys are running 2,000cc Hi-Z injectors on Petrol just fine. Modern technology. 

     

    Have you contacted MotorMan yet? They should be able to make a recommendation.  They do know L28 engines and what injectors fit. Just tell them you have a 280ZXT Turbo motor and want to upgrade to Hi-Z, 480cc EV1 style injector with 14mm top o/ring and 14mm bottom O/ring. Ask for single spray pattern

     

    http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/web_page.html

     

     A Pallnet rail 14mm for top and bottom actually gives a bit more selection, especially in Bosch I made the same mistake and am now kicking myself. 

     

    1989-1991 Mazda RX7 injectors may be close. They are 460cc. You have to be careful when ordering though as you can get them in both High or Low impedance. The Hi-Z ones are part number 195500-2010. Double check that of course, and you are likely going to have to use a connector adapter plug. I don't know the O-ring size, but I'm sure Motorman has that info. 

     

    195500-1350 also comes in a 460CC and it looks like it has an EV1 connector. But you have to be careful with these. They come in Hi and Low impedance versions and Mazda used the same part number for both styles. 

     

    This thread at MiataTurbo.net may clarify some of the RX7 injector issues. 

     

    https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/rx-7-injectors-again-5627/

    I got in contact with them and they were only able to suggest one injector that wouldn't work for my setup and then they never responded to any of my other emails after that..  it was a low impedance 460cc injector I believe.

     

    But after many hours of research and help from another member having the same issue I came up with the 550cc RX7 injectors 195500-2020 which are high impedance denso injectors that are 11mm so they will fit my current pallnet rail. Just need to adapt from the EV1 plug and I should be in good shape.

     

  2. On 11/15/2017 at 1:29 AM, Chickenman said:

    Aeromotive 13129 EFI regulator will also work just fine, is a quality part and has a reasonable price.  

    https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aei-13129/overview/

    The stock FPR simply cannot handle the  Bypass return volume that a High Volume pump provides at idle and low RPM's.  Internal orifice is simply too small. At idle, with bigger injectors and a high volume pump you can be Bypassing 80 percent of the fuel volume back to the Tank. FPR has to be designed internally to handle this amount of flow and maintain a steady pressure. 

    Many new cars use a PWM Fuel pump that reduces flow at low loads to aid in maintaining a properly regulated rail pressure.  

     

     

     

    What would you recommend for a high impedance 480cc injector?   

  3. Alright I have searched far and wide and can't seem to find the correct fuel injectors for my setup.

     

    I have a 11mm O-ring Pallnet Rail (willing to switch to 14mm for the right injector)

     

    I need a 480cc high impedance injector. I believe it is the EV1 style from what I have been reading. 

     

    Currently have 440cc Supra injectors but they are low impedance and I need high impedance, tried researching resisters but had no luck.

     

     

    L28et MS2 n47 dewebbed intake 

     

    Please chime in and help me out if you can. Just need a good recommendation to point me in the right direction. 

  4. Just now, ZHoob2004 said:

    What do you mean by this? Is it an OEM pump? Is it an aftermarket pump that looks like an OEM pump? Is it a universal aftermarket pump that looks nothing like the original?

    Really you shouldn't be worrying about what the specs were for the stock pump, you should get the specs for the pump you actually have (from the manufacturer).

    As others have said, whatever pump you have probably won't cut it once you account for boost pressure. I personally wouldn't risk it for something that is a fairly small cost in the scheme of turbo builds.

    stock replacement from a new manufacturer, looks identical to the original. I couldn't find any specs on what the fuel pump put out from the listing. 

  5. 59 minutes ago, turbogrill said:

    1. 

    Doubt it.     Have no clue, maybe at 40ish psi.

    2.

    Most injectors are rated at 43.5 psi. So if you use that it makes it easy for you, if you use 80psi your 440cc/min injectors flows ~600cc/min.

    440cc (43.5psi)  into this (http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php) calculator seems to give a max HP of about 330hp crank (bsfc 0.65 ).

    600cc (80psi)  into this (http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php) calculator seems to give a max HP of about 420hp crank.

    Why not run as high as possible? I guess it's just put's extra load on pump, fittings and FPR. Not sure how much pressure stock system can take (hoses, filter etc). The fuel pressure is set by wit a knob on the FPR

    3. 
    Aeromotive are popular

    1. I have no problem with buying a higher pressure fuel pump, I just couldn't find what the stock one is rated at to see if it is needed in the first place. (What would be a good aftermarket alternative?)

     

    2. Okay cool, that gives me a general idea of where I need to be at least. 

     

    3.  Thats exactly what I was looking at, good to know. 

     

    Thanks for your input, you've been extremely helpful! 

     

     

  6. So I am doing a Megasquirt EFI swap as well as a Turbo motor swap, using Green Giant 440cc injectors. I have a brand new stock replacement fuel pump already installed on the car, and I know the stock FPR is around 35-38psi if I remember correctly. What is the maximum fuel pressure the stock pump can put out? I am looking at getting a new FPR as I will need more fuel pressure for this setup, but I am trying to figure out exactly how much I will be needing and also if my stock fuel pump needs to be replaced in order to achieve higher pressure. 

     

    Any suggestions on a good FPR would be great as well. (and fuel pump if needed) 

     

    1.Can I use my stock replacement fuel pump?

    2. How much fuel pressure should the turbo motor and megasquirt setup have? (green giant 440cc injectors, p90 head, dished pistons 7.31:1 cr, base tune of 220-230hp apox. will be tuned to 300whp)

    3. FPR reccomendations? 

  7. 2 hours ago, Chickenman said:

    The P90 head with Flat Top pistons would have been ideal.  The P90 with dished pistons is the stock 

    The P90 head with dished pistons still has an advantage over the N42 head. The combustion shape of the P90 has a better quench area. Quench area creates turbulence in the mixture and helps prevent detonation. That is critical on a Turbo motor.  When you add a thicker head gasket, you reduce quench... so you can actually end up with an engine being more detonation by reducing the compression ratio that way. Especially if you have an engine with a head design that is prone to detonation... like the N42 and N47 are.

    Not saying that you can't make an N42/N47 combo work... but it will be less than optimal. And for crappy California 91 Octane fuel, I would definitely run H20/Meth injection as a fail safe with an N42 head. That's just my personal opinion mind you. 

    Either way with a good intercooler and proper engine management you can run a higher compression ratio than what Nissan did back in the day. Programmable ignition timing and programmable fuel curves will go a long way on controlling detonation. 

    BTW, I have a NA F54 Flat top with N47 heads and 10.3 to 1 CR. I have to be careful with ignition timing on that with 91 Octane.  Stock(ish ) distributor at this point. 

     

     

    Hmm that definitely gives me a lot to think about, I've asked around on some different pages and was pretty surprised to see that more than a few people got some pretty high numbers out of the N42 combo.   350 whp out of a n42 head and block with dished pistons and all, with a blow through triple webber setup! Now that I know it can be done, I want to know what I need to do to make a SAFE 300whp if possible. P90 heads seem like they are getting increasingly more difficult to find (and more expensive). I could run a Water/Meth injection system on my MS2 setup and hopefully have some sort of fail safe for it. I will be running a good intercooler setup and do everything I can to keep the intake temps down. I'd like to install a sensor too just to see exactly whats going on in there. Lots of work to do and money to spend. And I need to find the right turbo still lol

    CA gas is garbage. Very disappointing that I cant do better at the pump. 

    Again I appreciate the feedback/help/advice! Its been a great help in leading me in the right direction. 

  8. 7 minutes ago, Zetsaz said:

    Your combo is actually fairly popular for turbo swaps, especially in countries that didn't get the L28ET. I know I've considered it too, I have the same block/head in my 76. You mentioned in your build that you joined some facebook groups for datsun stuff, are you part of "Church of L Series"? Unlike DPAN or some other parts groups, "the Church" as they sort of jokingly call it is strictly L engines and a lot of really knowledgeable guys frequent the page, even Tony D who you've seen here. Would be a good one to join if you're trying to get even more info from more sources. 

    Biggest issue with making more power for the turbo engines was the J pipe and now primitive EFI controls. The efi definitely works well if you know what you're doing, but you can't really modify it. Running custom EFI and an intercooler are your biggest steps for boosting safely. Water or methanol are definitely not required for 300, at least not based on any builds I've seen. To make 300 in the 4 cylinder L20? Yes... but we have two extra cylinders and have less issues making that kind of power. 

    That is what I've read, and one of the reasons I started down this road. And I am apart of the "Church" lol. I have asked some questions regarding this build today to see what I get as a response. 

    And as for EFI I am having a full new EFI harness built for the build using Megasquirt.  And definitely running an intercooler and all that good stuff. >click here to see my build thread<

  9. 2 hours ago, Chickenman said:

    Sorry, had your build mixed up with Zeiss 150. You would be better off with a P90 head and the N42 block IMHO. Does your N42 block have dished pistons or Flat Tops?  That makes a big difference to the CR. CR between 8.0 to 8.5 will be fine with a P90 head.

    The N42 head is  too prone to detonation, unless your weld up the combustion chamber. And that's a big job. The the N42 is more of a NA head.  The P90 is much better for a Turbo motor. Better quench than N42/N47 as well. BTW, adding a thicker head gasket actually makes quench worse, and can increase detonation. So you might want to re-think that. 

    My recommendation is to build two short blocks. One with a Mule engine. Stock short block with dished pistons. Build it decent.,  but don't put a ton of money into it, Basically just freshen up a good used short block. This is your sacrificial Lamb for when things go Chernobyl.  And they will... at some point. Melt down the cheap motor while you are learning how to Tune a Turbo. Once you have the Tune and Boost levels sorted... then put in the Big $$$ short block. 

    Local Road Racer made 400 hp on a stock short block with Cast pistons. T3/T4 at 15 lbs boost. Engine lasted 3 seasons of Road Racing till he broke a  Stock Piston ( Ring lands ) . He was expecting half a season. He actually started cranking up the boost higher and higher , because he wanted to put the new $$$ short block in... but the old Mule engine wouldn't die!!

     

    Interesting.. My build is based off of another member that successfully ran a turbo on his stock n42 head and block. (bonfire79 on zcar.com).

    My setup is n42 head and block with dished pistons. The current compression ratio is 8.21:1. 

    This is the guide I have been following: http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/376338-how-convert-n-l28-turbo.html

    As for tuning I am having it professionally tuned. But I definitely see your point on being cautious ( I certainly dont want it to blow up)

    And these motors really seem to be mules! That's impressive to say the least about the 400hp motor on a stock bottom end.  I'll definitely up the injectors if that's the case as well. Wouldn't want to fall short on fuel.

    Also where I live in CA we only have 91 at the most, which sucks! Will I 100% need a water/meth system for this to operate safely?  

    Edit: A P90 head would drop my compression ratio to 7.5:1, even lower than my original target, what other heads work well with turbos?

  10. So you may have seen my build thread. I am converting my N/A L28 to turbo using the stock N42/N42 motor with a 2mm HKS head gasket and a compression ratio of 7.65:1. Upon my research I have found that finding the exact turbo for this build is alot harder than I though. And requires some pretty good knowledge of how turbos work, compressor maps etc.. I've done some searching here and there but havent seen anyone doing my setup so far with the N42 combo with the 2mm gasket. Feel free to chime in and I'm curios to know what turbos you guys are running, and also if you have some helpful advice to steer me in the right direction that would be very helpful as well. I will continue my research either way. 

    Here is what my goals are:

    Full spool by 3k-4k rpms. 

    300whp capable. 

    500-900 dollar price range (preferably around 700-800 if possible)

    These are the things I can think of at the moment, I am probably forgetting something. 

    but a 3-4k spool seems like the best for the rpm range of this build (6500).

    Feel free to chime in with any advice, criticism, or whatever you'd like! I am wanting to learn, and wanting to make sure my setup is right the first time. Like I said earlier I will continue this research but I figured I'd put this post out here so I can see what people have to say. 

     

    Shameless build plug >Click Me< 

     

  11. 6 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

    Something you need to consider regardless of swap down the road isn't just raw power, but where it makes it. Find dyno charts and compare power bands. I know after seeing a lot of 1jz dyno charts, I was leaning back to the L28ET route for cost and lower end power. Of course VVT-i on either will get you a bit of better power on the low end. 2JZ would be superior to either of them in both regards, but you start getting into cost effectiveness relative to your goals.

    Absolutely. And alot of my reason with sticking with the L28 build is that its already ready to rock n roll! It just needs a little pep and itll be a fun car(funner I should say!). I'm sure it will get a swap someday but I really am intrigued with the L28 and wanna see what its all about. 

  12. 6 hours ago, Greeko said:

    The JZ is actually 45 lbs lighter than the stock L28..


    I get it though...People will always work on whatever engine you want..just gonna cost you. Parts may be a touch more difficult to source etc etc.

    Sadly I do not have my old videos.. What I can tell you is it started first try... Amazed at how easy it was.

     

    I will be posting more up...just finishing paint right now.. Just laid down first coat today!

     Really? Interesting it must be a much lighter material. It sure does take up alot of room! haha worth it im sure though! And I can always swap in a newer motor! With the scarcity of parts for these builds I may not get the chance to do this again! 

    And its looking good! Cant wait to see the finished product! 

  13. 2 hours ago, turbogrill said:

    300hp is a lot for a light car as that. Great that the suspension has been upgraded! It would be undrivable with those power levels and shitty old suspenion.

    What wheels are you running? 15x8? I would get sporty tires, like Direzza or Ventus RS-4. Depends on if you like to go around corners fast or just floor it at red lights. 

    You technically don't need the actual gauge but you do need the wideband controller for megasquirt tuning. The gauge cost nothing, it's the sensor/controller board that cost. I would recommend getting the gauge as well for back up during tuning. Just  zip-tie it initially and then remove it after your tune is steady.

     

    As for fuel pump, not sure if the stock fuel pump can handle your power levels. Are you planning on running stock fuel pressure or higher? Depends on your injectors flow rate. 

    I would just get a Bosch pump, old pumps can fail. 

     

    Will you be controlling timing as well with Megasquirt? I think turbos like that.

    It has new tires on it now, I'll have to check what they are. I think the wheels are 16x8 with brand new BF Goodrich G-Force Comp 2's. 225s. They came with the car and were brand new. And I am buying a full harness and kit from softopz so anything that will be needed to get it going he will make sure I have it for the setup I am going for, he's been very helpful. I am also gonna have it tuned remotely to help me get it right.

    The stock fuel pump has been replaced with a brand new one recently (stock replacement) but I have no clue what it's output is. Most likely higher fuel pressure than stock id imagine. 

    And as for timing I'd assume so (bare with me as im still learning about megasquirt). I know it'll be using the turbo distributor for sure so I'm assuming it will communicate the timing through that. 

  14. 7 minutes ago, Greeko said:

    I'm going to chime in here......

    I was down the same road as you...and decided that its WAYYYYYYY too much work for me to reach 300-400 whp with the L28... So i dropped a 1JZ/W58 with a microtech lt12c. Took me 3 weeks, 6K and i was DONE and RUNNING...easy swap and part availability is super easy(same parts as 2JZ for the most part)

     

    I'm sitting at 383 WHP with 14 lbs of boost bone stock internals and turbos....

     

     

    Believe me I have considered swapping it... But alot of work went into modifying the power steering, A/C and all that stuff to work on this L28 and I would hate to rip all that off and it just fits in the car so well.  This motor has been meticulously cared for and maintained by the PO and its just too good for me to pull out. After this motor reaches its limits I'll go the swap route (rb25det probably). That and I feel like someones gotta keep modifying these engines! lol Gotta keep the L28 alive and well.  Also want to keep the car as light as possible, and I really like the way a clean L28 looks in the engine bay with a nice megasquirt system installed like some of the pictures on this thread. Someday I'll swap it, but not until I get tired of this one! haha Your build looks amazing btw, do you have any videos?

  15. 5 hours ago, lowrider said:

    I have been running a NA-T conversion in my 260Z for the last 7 years. It has gone through several iterations and also several bottom ends (due to me being a noob at tuning).

    I started out with a stock 83 zx motor / efi and added a stock T3, locked the dizzy, and added a potentiometer inline with the head temp sensor to add some more fuel. It was crude but it worked for a while.

    I am currently making around the 350ish HP range with a Holset HX35 at 18PSI strapped to the side of a bone stock N42 Bottom end topped with a P90 head and megasquirt 2 orchestrating everything. This bottom end has lived for about 4 years unopened with nothing but the oil changed at regular intervals.

    To back what everyone else has said, these motors are tough. By far the biggest weakness in my experience are the pistons. If you plan on using the stock pistons, don't rev past 6500 or else it will pull the ringlands. Also, I've lost a couple of ringlands on the pistons due to the ring gap being too tight with the extra heat from the extra compression the turbo adds. If you do crack the motor open you may want to gap your rings a little wide than stock. Granted that failure happened at higher boost pressures and horsepower than you may be wanting to achieve.

    As turbogrill said, a wideband is a must for any turbo venture.

     

    My goal is atleast 300hp at the wheels. And I''m gonna have it tuned if needed by someone that softopz recommended so I can hopefully save myself from blowing it up haha. For this setup on the stock n42 head and block (+2mm head gasket) I'm not gonna go outside of 6500 until I build the motor more down the road. And like I was saying to turbogrill I wasnt going to add the gauges ill be running but I have added them to the list. If you have any recommendations for a good wideband thats not too pricey id love to hear it.  And thank you for the input I appreciate it!! 

  16. 8 hours ago, turbogrill said:

    Cool with the turbo swap. Good luck! As you might know there is a guide here on the forum. Also join the Datsun facebook pages, sometime they sell turbo parts if you need. 

    I can recommend buying injectors from motorman, it's a little more pricey than ebay but you know it's all good. Can be hard to diagnose a faulty injector when you have so many new things going on. As for FPR I have the Aeromotive 13105, works well and no to pricey, however make sure that whatever FPR you get has the right connections (ORB, AN or hose).

     

    Also I didn't see a wideband on the list, you really need one. 

     

     

     

    Thanks! I just figure I might as well start with the turbo now instead of having to revert back to a different setup after I spend a bunch camming it etc. I've looked at many guides on here and other forums and I've joined a bunch of groups on facebook and actually just purchased a turbo manifold for 150 bucks on there! Just need a turbo dizzy. I'll check out that FPR, also did you get a different fuel pump?? And I wasnt going to add any gauges to the list but I might as well add everything, so I updated the list! Thanks for your feedback and recommendations I really appreciate it. 

  17. 1 hour ago, Chickenman said:

    Just some info. The stock rods and crank are forged from factory on all L-series engines. And A-series as well.  They are VERY strong and have excellent metallurgy. .

    Some basic rod prep ( polishing, shot peen and big end sizing check ), balancing  and some ARP bolts and you have a pretty darned good set of rods for not a lot of money.  

    Appreciate the information! Seems like Nissan/Datsun did it right the first time around with these L-series!! 

  18. 2 minutes ago, turbogrill said:

    Bottom end seems to survive a little over 300hp as long as you stay under 6500 rpm. Over 300hp and I think forged pistons are in needed, not sure when you need forged internals but seems like there is plenty of 400hp builds here.

     

    However do a leakdown/compression test, it might show that 2 or so cylinders are low on compression. Who knows, maybe the trip meter wrapped around, maybe there was a coolant leak at some point.

    Having that said due to lazyness I have driven my stockish L28 based race car with a very worn engine for a total of 32hours racing, only issue has been maybe 10% loss of power. 

    Wow that's pretty impressive! I'll have to keep that in mind for sure. A compression test is the first thing in the works before I do anything major. But my theory on this build is to see what this old L28 can do and if it busts, then I'll swap it. 

  19. 29 minutes ago, madkaw said:

    I wouldn’t give the bottom end another thought if the oil was changed regular . These motors are as tough as it gets 

    It was meticulously maintained by the previous owner. So I should be good there. Should I replace the timing chain if it hasn't been done yet? I still have to go through all the paperwork I have on it. Also, what are you using for injectors??

  20. Also I might ask, how much of a beating can the stock L28 handle with a bigger cam and rebuilt head? Is it smart to go with a bigger cam on a stock bottom end motor? Engine has around 117k on it, and has been maintained very well. I''ll need to go through my receipts and see if the timing chain has been replaced as well, as I am thinking that will be my first weak link in the build if anything, but then again I am not familiar with the strength of these motors or the longevity other than what I have been told by others (which is that they are great motors). From what I've read so far, and from your suggestions as well, is that these can definitely handle quite a bit. 

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