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Posts posted by TakemuraShuu

  1. Tightened the intake manifold, engine starts for a sec on starter fluid. I'ved narrowed it down to the injectors.


    Per FSM, I checked the pinout for each injector on the ECU Harness and all have 12+ VDC. Checking the injector harnesses directly however yield a different outcome.


    I'm unfamiliar with how to check the injector harness so I unplugged 3 harnesses and checked Ohms first by touching the left pin with one point and right with the other, all 3 that I tested gave same result of 0. When I checked VDC by hot point to a pin and ground point to a ground, each outcome was different for the 3. I've included two images showing what's up. I may have to just go Megasquirt if it gets too complicated haha



  2. 2 hours ago, NewZed said:


    Squirt the fluid directly in to the intake manifold.  If the AFM vane is not opening the fluid won't get through.


    You might just have a big vacuum leak somewhere.  Moving the AFM won't help that.  Edit - actually it might, but still...


    Don't forget to look for rags or mice nests in the J-pipe if you got the parts from a car that has been sitting.

    Again thank you for assisting me with this. I think you're right about the vacuum leak, and they're may be incorrect timing also. Car started for maybe half a second when I sprayed starter fluid near the 5th and 6th injectors leading to believe the leak is in that general area. 


    I'll re-tighten the intake manifold bolts and see if there's any difference.

  3. 4 hours ago, NewZed said:

    Run through the typical NA EFI checks.  Could be a fusible link, or even a ground problem.  Voltage and grounds are the key.


    Here's a reference from your past.  It ran before, so it should run again.  Good luck.  Try starting fluid if you just want to hear it for a short burst.  That will confirm spark and timing, then you can focus on the injector power and control.



    First, thank you so much for your assistance with my car problems haha.


    Second, sprayed starter fluid in the Afm, and still no start. So the culprit should be air. The AFM is in front of the turbo as a factory L28ET would be mounted. I'll run tests per FSM and see if it's broken.

  4. 1 hour ago, cgsheen said:

    Yup, don't use Turbo injectors with a stock NA ECU. (unless you've figured a way to retune that ECU...)


    2 hours ago, NewZed said:


    Have you checked the spark plugs?  Might be flooding.  The turbo injectors are 265 CC, the NA are 188 CC.  You're dumping 40% more fuel in than the engine needs.


    Ah **** I haven't checked, if they're flooded do you think I should swap to NA injectors or fork over the money for a Megasquirt. I'm just trying to run 7lbs of boost, nothing crazy.

  5. Hello, I've just finished converting my NA L28e in my 1978 280z to turbo. I'm running stock Turbo Zx injectors with NA MAF and NA ECU. The car will crank for days never even sputters. Here's what I've checked:


    - Checked ECU harness pinout for injectors, revolution trigger signal, and power circuit for voltage, all 12v+


    - Fuel pump hums nicely with fpr reading roughly 36lbs


    - All intercooler piping is snug, MAF sensor is in front of turbo


    - Intake manifold bolted on snug


    - Has spark


    Any help would greatly appreciated, thank you for reading.

  6. 14 minutes ago, Xander said:

    I recently had the opportunity to put a L-series head gasket on top of a AJ16 engine. That AJ16 is huge!


    make sure it will all fit before committing to a project like this.  I friend of mine put a supercharged 4.0 AJ16 into a old Landrover Defender. I made the wiring loom and megasquirt unit for him. Placing a AJ16 into my S30 also crossed my mind. :)

    Ah yes I thought as much, I'll have to measure up the dimensions before going full send on the project. It's such a great looking motor though, reminds me of the S-series Nissan motor. There's not a whole lot of aftermarket support but a megasquirt, turbo related bolt ons, injectors, and some fan work, I think I should be able to pull a decent amount of power out of it.

  7. I'm building a 77 s30, these cars came with an inline 6 so I'd like to stay true to that. I've been researching unique inline 6's that are easily obtainable in Southeastern USA, and I happened to stumble across a 57,500mile AJ16 4.0 from a mid 90s Jaguar for $220. 


    I'm a pretty decent welder. The placement of the the motor looks like it would be great for a big single, assuming I'd find a way to lower the compression ratio. There's a company that still sells reman Tremac 5 speed trans for the AJ16.


    Does this sound like it's worth it? Money and time aren't really an issue, but I'd like to see progress. I'd rather not go RB or JZ, and my 78 currently has an L-series. Thanks for reading.

  8. Installed new ZX alternator
    -With car idling-
    Voltage at Alternator(+ on BAT, - on Battery Negative Terminal)- 14.65v
    Voltage at Battery(+ Battery Positive Terminal, - on E) - 12.49v

    Also car stays on for a while after turning key to OFF position.
    With key in OFF, will still be car running, however unplugging the "T" plug for the alternator shuts the car down.
    Pretty sure the Battery and Alternator should read the same, but they aren't. Looked at the fusible links and they look fine.
    Read over the FSM, and can't seem to find anything that would give me a lead. Back at square one.

  9. 8 hours ago, NewZed said:


    The leg of the T should be white with a black stripe by the diagram.   The other should be yellow.  The WB wire is the one that should control your charge light.  Not sure what's happening when you jump it like that, it shouldn't really do anything.  It might be that you're running full current through a short in the alternator.  The charge light is actually a resistor that controls current flow through that circuit.


    Kind of sounds like you have two problems - a bad connection to the BAT terminal, and a bad alternator.  Parts store alternators have been known to be bad out of the box.  I'd get it tested.




    First off thanks so much for replying NewZed, you've helped me in the past as well. Second, I think the wiring on this car may have been changed in the past. On the diagram where the "Y" wire is on the "T" plug, mine is a thick white wire w/ a red stripe, and "WB" wire on the diagram is a slim blue wire on my car. Sounds strange.


    Anyway I'll remove the alternator and take it to the parts store to see what the deal is with it. Thanks again!

  10. Also forgot to add, if I unplug the "T" plug the charge light goes off, but not still not producing anything from the alternator. If I use a jumper wire with one end on the POS terminal of the battery, and the other end touching the top pin on the alternator that the fatter white/ with red stripe wire that goes to the "T" plug, there's a spark, voltage drops, then car shuts off. Assuming that it grounded for some reason. When car is off, battery is at 12.6, when running it drops to 12.3


  11. Hi, I have a 78 s30. Been working on the car recently and noticed the alternator isn't charging the battery, and the red charge light is on w/ the voltage reading about 6 on the stock gauge. When the car is running w/ no accessories on, voltage of the battery is at around 12.2-12.35v.
    Read through the electrical section of the FSM. With the car running, POS point on tester to battery, and NEG point of tester to the point on the alternator that says BAT, the tester reads 10.35??? This doesn't seem right, A pos and a pos shouldn't read a voltage like that, right? Think the alternator could be grounded out somewhere in the 40+ year old wiring? This alternator is 10 months old.

  12. Hi everyone, I have a 1978 280z that I've been working on for over a year now. In this time, I've got everything working from the drivetrain to the gauges (all except the tachometer), I usually drive it everyday. The tachometer is the only thing that doesn't work, and hasn't ever since I've had the car.
    I removed the tachometer from the dash and tested voltage, it is a 3 wire tach. With key in ON position, Red/black wire going to peg has 10.95v, green has 10.96v, and the black is a GROUND I'm assuming.
    I bought an aftermarket unit assuming the tachometer itself was bad. Installed it according to the wiring diagram. When I turn key to ON position nothing happens, when I start the car the aftermarket tach flashes once for a split second, but doesn't come on, the needle does not move either.
    Is there an in-depth diagram on the wiring of a 78 z, I'm mostly finding write ups on 240z's. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you so much.
  13. Hi everyone, I've been driving my 280z every other day. Today I took it to a shop to do some work on the exhaust. After it was done I came to pick it up. It cranked, and started, but died a few seconds after releasing the key.


    I reviewed my relay wiring near the battery, it all checks out. I have an aftermarket fpr with built in gauge, pressure stays at 42 or 43 with key in ON position, non running, pressure drops to about 37 or 38 when starting and running. Tracking the problem down, I sprayed starter fluid in the AFM when the car ran before it shut off, car ran off the starter fluid. I disconnected the AFM, and it still ran with the starter fluid.


    I've tried two different ecu's, same outcome. Fuel pump is working, and it has fuel pressure, my thought is something to do with the AFM? Even tho it's a rebuilt unit?

  14. My apologies, the readings I recorded were taken when the key was in the on position. I just recharged the battery and the reading were about the same, the battery's voltage is around 12.70, while B is 11.70ish and C is 11.34. I'm positive I followed the diagram correctly as well as grounding the module properly, do you think I could've blown the module somehow?

  15. On 12/19/2018 at 6:27 PM, NewZed said:

    Have you checked the B pin for voltage?  Checked the red and green wire's resistance, through the distributor's pickup coil?  Checked the resistance of the coil's primary circuit?  Checked for pinched wires?


    Did you disconnect the old module?  Just unplug it, up by the fuse box.  It needs to be disconnected for the new one to work right.


    You have wires connected but haven't confirmed that things are correct.  A picture isn't really going to help.  Good luck.


    B - 11.79volts
    C - 10.52volts
    W - 5.89volts
    G - 5.89volts
    Hmm, think maybe the ground isn't good enough? Also when the key is in the on position, I hear a faint whining sound coming from the HEI module. Thanks again for the help!


  16. Quote

    Have you checked the B pin for voltage?  Checked the red and green wire's resistance, through the distributor's pickup coil?  Checked the resistance of the coil's primary circuit?  Checked for pinched wires?


    Did you disconnect the old module?  Just unplug it, up by the fuse box.  It needs to be disconnected for the new one to work right.

    I haven't troubleshooted any of that, I'll definitely do that tomorrow. Thanks so much.

    Also I've seen two different diagrams. The one I posted earlier and this one. Not sure which one is correct one for me follow,  using a stock 1978 with L28e, harness and everything.


  17. Hi everyone. I was told my ignition unit is starting to go bad due to the complete drop in rpms when mashing on the accelerator when the engine's warm. I was told to do the Hei module conversion.
    I installed it according to the diagram below but I'm not getting any spark. I've tried 3 different brand new module and no dice. I have the module bolted down to the chassis inside the engine bar, near the ignition coil. I've looked at the 3 threads on this forum regarding this problem and another on zcar.com, nothing provided any success. Any help would be much appreciated, thank you.


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