Sjoost

You are right NewZed, bit confusing without part details. Well in the rockauto link for example, I have the part ACDLCO E1802. However when installed, it did noting to my pressure gauge. I think it's just a low oil pressure switch with a fixed low pressure alarm (correct me if i'm wrong). Indeed, i did notice the later models have the continues pressure measurement, and a low pressure alarm and figured that will also function on older 280z, without the alarm connected. From the sent link, only the BECK/ARNLEY 2010239 & WVE 1S6561 will work for the gauge, right? I was actually looking for a alternative part easily bought in europe (or china). Therefore i was looking at alternatives but needed the correct tread details (most common is 1/8inch NPT). Thx for that. The point of the Low pressure low resistance, vs high pressure, higher resistance i still do not fully understand. Or do cars really have gauges with other way round meters (resistance wise)? Thx NewZed. Regards, Joost

Hi guys, I am working on this same topic. For my 280z 1976 model i have now bought like 4 different sender units by now. One same as like the picture in the top of this thread (The Rockauto one). But it does not work for me. My oil gauge stays on 0, and the gauge does work, because when i ground it, the meter climbs all the way. I put in another one (i think a switch again) and that one climbs all the way up on my gauge at ignition, and drops all the way down when engine starts running (looks like a reverse switch). Somewhere, i found that these are actually switches, and what the gauge needs is a continues pressure sender, giving different resistance over the pressure range like in this Post: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114259-oil-pressure-sender-and-gauge-specifications/ So i have been looking around, and found that there are many sender units, 0-145 psi but the resistance seems to be other way round (so LOW resistance a LOW psi, and HIGH resistance at HIGH) compared the linked article. I am puzzled, anyone know the clue to this all? Besides, the engine block tread, anyone know what that is. Is it 1/8 "BSPT , or 1/8 "NPT? or something else? Hope someone knows the details? cheers, Joost

Yeh, Got it all to work. Hooked up the vacuum lines, the magnetic valves, check valve and the vacuum tank, and the blower system works like a chime. All modes of the blower work correctly and the valves open and close the different gates. take care! Joost

Hey ZHoob2004, Well I did make good ground on this subject. Indeed, i needed to run a new vacuum hose though the fire wall.There is this grommet with a neck. Below the dashboard on the passengers side i found a vacuum line to which i could connect. All other lines under the dash seem to be connected to the different vacuum valves. I am missing some additional vacuum line, which I will have delivered this week but I have been studying the FSM/ AC system. The check valve, is actually a very small plastic fitting, which is located in one of the 2 holes on the side of the magnetic valve bracket. Seems you do not have this Magnetic valves installed? Once i get the vacuum lines in, i will hook up the rest of the system. Regards, Joost

hi jhm, Thank you for the reply. In the mean time i did dig into FSM and actually came to the conclusion that vacuum is needed to operate the gate to the defrost nozzles for the windscreen. So tomorrow, I will reinstall the vacuum tank, the solenoid (magnetic) valves, and see if it work. Keep you updated. Regards, Joost

Hi all, Somehow i cant get the blower air to come from the wind screen vents on my 280Z (1976 model). I do not have the vacuum canister installed (yet), and have read that possibly there is a port which is operated by vacuum from this tank. Not sure it this could be the issue, but before i start ripping things apart, figure post here. Any guidance is welcome. Regards, Joost

Nice write up manimal, I am actually also installing a 93 civic motor in my 280z (1975-76). Question i have, how come blue/white wire is not used? On the wiring diagram it does seem to have some function and other posts i have seen also use this wire. I will install an additional relays for the PARK function (5 pins relay 86-87-87a-30-85). Issue I have, on my datsun 280z my wiring is different. I have yellow/green blue/red black yellow blue/white yellow/black Any idea how to connect those to the yellow, white/blue, green/black, blue, black? Joost

Hi all, I have removed my dash out of my 280z. Reason, wanted to fix wherever was broken (mainly lighting and clock not working), and put a dash cover on it. While the dash was still in the car, i noticed few things were not working (as I am still working to rebuild the car, all lights are not connected, like headlights, and blinkers). I connected one headlight and one blinker to check. Blinkers as running lights work, mid beam works and high beam also. Hazard light works and blinks. But indicator does not, stays on. I know the relays is broken and am waiting for delivery of a new one. But when I put on the lights, the dash lights of the oil pressure, temp, fuel tank, clock and volt meter all work. But the dash light of the speedometer and tachometer do not work. The blinker lights in the tachometer, the high beam light in the speedo don't work. With the dash out, I checked the lights individually. Found only 1 broken. All others were fine. I also measured the resistance of the "dimmer" and that worked to spec. Anyone have a clue or common known issue why, or hint where to start narrowing this down to find out why my dash lights don't work? Any help is welcome. Cheers, joost

I sent you a PM aitch

thx cgsheen!!

thx grannyknot, i will look for that. thx

Hi all, My datsun 280z is import from cali, and has blinker lights on when headlights are on. Here in Holland it is not permitted to have blinker lights on as running lights. I have been looking in the internet but could not find a quick fix for this. Can anyone guide me in the right direction? Cheers, Joost

hx jhm, I just followed up advise from NewZed again, tightened downcomer. Looked up some more internet youtube's how to discover if there is a blown-out gasket. I stated up, with radiator cap of. It started right up again, no smoke, and i could see a flow in the radiator. No signs of bubbles there. After about 30 seconds, white smoke again, which did disappeared after like 2 minutes. Some smoke coming from engine after some time, but felt it was some residue on the exhaust shield. So kept running. No leaks, and all smoke gone. Figure for now, all fine. Radiator was warming up (car was on for about 15 minutes, and i drove a bit), but no change in oil temp or water temp gauges (need to check that). I did just touch the block, valve block and valve cover to see how hot they were. They were hot but i could still touch them, and good sign the radiator was getting warm. Figure, all looks fine for now. Did order gasket set, just in case Was trying to upload some movies... but no luck. What I also did, is open the oil lid, engine changed speed right away and was about to die, so put it back on, and all back again. Seems vacuum system is okay. VID_20200331_173144.mp4 VID_20200331_173144.mp4 VID_20200331_173144.mp4

Hi NewZed, All is stock on my engine, except for the radiator. No turbo, just L28 1975/76 model. I get your point on the fan (stock too) and looked okay. What i did this morning: 1. Removed the radiator cap 2. Started engine (remarkably starts on the first go every time:-)) 3. Kept it on for maybe 3-4 minutes. 4. At start no smoke, after 30-40 seconds white smoke, and liquid sputter from exhaust. 5. Apparently i have some small leaks in my exhaust system, as some liquid dripped out of exhaust also. But i do feel it is a significant amount (5cm x 5cm puddle on concrete floor). 6. Smoke was gone after about 2-3 minutes. 7. no sign of increasing temperature on the gauge (but felt the radiator and was slightly warmer (but no way heated)), or gauge, or sensor is could be broken. 8. I shut down after 4 minutes, as i was getting smoke at the connection of my down comer pipe from the exhaust manifold (which i might need to tighten further also). - i figure the water pump is working, as i see flow in the radiator. I do not see any bubble in the radiator (your suggestion on exhaust gas entering water system from blown gasket) - nu punctures found in the inlet manifold - during idle, after some time it dropped refs further but stayed on. I figure that states the engine is running in normal idle at that moment. I am a bit reluctant to keep it on longer, scared to damage something further. doe this give any more clue? great thx already, joost

hi NewZed, Thank you for a fast reply. few followups 1. How long should i keep it running to warm up? 5 minutes? 2. The liquid in the exhaust suggest significant amount getting into exhaust system or not? How can that get there while car running for about 2 minutes? 3. That fan speed, is it normal that it blows full speed at idle (~1000 rpm). Temp Sensor issue? 4. I have also read that there could be some issue with inlet manifold. Could that also be the case here? regards, Joost

Hi all, Finally I got my 280z original engine to start up (project ongoing). All seemed well, no white smoke, but I had coolant leak from the small tubes near the fuel injection rail. The tubes were totally worn out. So I fixed all 3 the tubes. Started engine up again, and suddenly noticed white smoke from the exhaust. Also noticed the inside of exhaust was wet (looked like coolant). I also noticed the fan really blowing hard (full power) immediately. What I did before was install new radiator. I forgot to take out the air from the water system I realize now (maybe reason?) and filled it up to just below the cap (is this too full?). Before all this, earlier I checked compression on all cylinders (with cold engine, lower side but nicely consistent on all 6, 100psi). I concluded all fine for cold block. I know, it could be a head gasket leak, but I have also seen other options. Like water Temperature Sensor failing, or somehow coolant drawn into inlet/exhaust manifold? I hope someone has some suggestions/tips before I go for the head gasket. Thank you for now. Joost

Nice Phantom, I have all carpets now, except for transmission tunnel which i will do myself. Thx for the picture! Cheers, Joost

Thx Miles for your effort, I had seen the z store before. However, I was looking for a supplier in Europe (which i found) to avoid all import taxes and transport costs. Regards, Joost

Looks like my issue is solved. Found a supplier in Germany which I will try for the floor mats. Cheers, joost

Hi guys, I want to get carpets made here in Holland for my 280z early 1976 model. I was wondering if any of you has a good pattern I could use, which has been used for a good set? Thx for any reply, Cheers joost

Hi all, I pulled out my original radio from my 1976 280z to fix it. Anyone know where to get a wiring diagram of this item? Cheers, joost

so john, there is noting like manual which contains these details? Was also looking for clutch master to slave line size. Coils still not arrived btw. joost

Thx jhm, where do you find those details btw? Joost

Hey guys, and girls, I am working on my 280z, 1976, dismantling the front suspension. While doing this, I had a hard time removing the left tie rod end (part no 48520-78500), which is connected to the steering rack, and damaged the tread on the bolt which is part of the ball joint (the one with the crown nu on it 01227-00031). I wanted to re thread the bolt, but i was wondering if anyone knows what the correct thread size is. It looks like M12 x 1,25, but I am not sure. Hope someone knows here, Thx, joost

Thx to nice people on this forum, I found wat i needed! John Meyer you rock. Thx again John. Joost