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Sadeem28

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Posts posted by Sadeem28

  1. 12 hours ago, Gumiho3 said:

    Im bad at taking pics lol.  The second picture is the more important part of the harness. It is the modified sub harness. 

     

     

     

     

    12 hours ago, Gumiho3 said:

    3rd pic is the sub harness with all the labels. Im slightly stuck on them because im not sure if they all need to be fused or have a separate relay. Such as the fuel pump ground wire. If you guys have any thoughts let me know.

    you should see my insta page, just a bunch of horrible pics. lol. I am not good either.

     

    Cant really see the labels in the 3rd pic but are all ground wire ? if so just bunch them up but dont quote me on that I am fairly new to wiring.

     

    Where in CA are you ?

  2. 9 hours ago, Gumiho3 said:

    Haven't tested harness yet, hopefully start to get down by end of this or next month. All i know about the vq37 is that it needs 51psi of fuel at the rail constantly, i could be wrong tho lol. There are 3 things you need to figure out when buying a fuel pump, 1) how much HP your engine will be, 2) what the fuel pressure the engine needs and, 3) voltage for the pump.

     

    The 255 is a bit overkill for the stock vq, but it gives room for mods later on . Should be able to handle at least 550 hp.

     good info, I would love to do an internal pump but dont want to cut the tank or get a new tank at this point so the external 255 seems like a good option.

  3. 2 hours ago, Gumiho3 said:

    I sent in just my engine harness, ecu , vvel module. They supplied me with the other necessary parts, like: sub harness for vvel, gas pedal, obd2 port. My wiring setup is a universal harness. I can drop the vq37 into whatever i please lol. As for fuel setup, i plan on running an external 255 walbro pump for now or cutting the tank to make an drop in pump. Later on in the build if i have the funds i would want zfevers aluminum tank with dual pumps.

    This is really helpful, I pretty much have everything from the donor car so I will probably end up sending everything. Have you tested the harness yet or still not there yet ? Is the external 255 pump rated for the vq37 ? Thanks for the info really helped.

  4. 6 hours ago, Gumiho3 said:

    Well I've had some bumps along the road with my project. Haven't been able to work on it for months... i will get back into it this week and post up some pics of the harness i got from hexagarage. I believe its about 6 hookup points of wires and ready to go.

    HI, what did you have to send hexagarage to get your harness? as in ecu and which harnesses?  A pic would be awesome. Also what were the specifications for the hexa garage harness ? as in a stand alone universal harness  ? I have so many question but not sure how to ask them lol. On hexa website did you go to "VHR SWAP WIRING"?

  5. 34 minutes ago, Sanchez said:

    @Sadeem28

    still chipping away very slowly at rust and body work. My time to work on it is pretty limited due to some changes at work the past few months. I am thinking of investing in a rotisserie with a friend because it’s also starting to beat up my back some of the bending and twisting required to do these panels on jack stands.

    As for the engine specifically, very shortly I will be sending out my wiring harness and ECU to Hexa Garage and hopefully firing up my engine soon since it’s been sitting for a bit over a year now. I think I should be able to fire it up without needing a starter or trans hooked up with a strong impact driver.

    @Gumiho3

    Did you ever get around to firing up your engine with the hex’s garage harness?

     

     

    I remember took me like 6 months doing body work and still not how I want it to be :). I actually used two HF engine stands and some extra metal(upgraded wheels) and made my own rotisserie, couldn't do a full 360 but was good enough for me. Now that I am done with the body work, I took it apart and am using both the engine stands one for the stock l28 and one for the vq37. Just has some extra holes for the cross bar to support both the stands. Makes things a lot easier with limited space in my 2 car garage.

     

    Can you give me more details on the wiring harness and ECU? what are you getting done? I have all the wiring harness from the donor 370z. Got both engine/engine bay harnesses and the dash harness among other things like ecu,pedal and the fuse boxes and the key. What are you planning on the belt without the power steering pump? I basically am getting the PS pump and will just mount it so can try and use the stock belt size. Also gonna use a universal AC unit with the serpentine pully so hoping to just use the stock belt.

     

    Also I ended up buying a brand new 6 speed trans from the dealer as the used trans available on ebay or other places are like $1900 without (CA) taxes and I got brand new one from dealer for like 2k out the door.

  6. Thanks man for the reply, I am actually in the assembly phase. Well technically paint phase and once that completes this weekend I can actually start assembly. But I am also mid way through rebuilding my l28 engine. I know I decided way too late to go with the vq37vhr. Thanks for the tips I am in no hurry to buy an engine anyways. If you are on insta let me know I would love to follow and see the progress.

     

    Great work by the way!!

  7. On 2/2/2019 at 9:11 PM, LanceVance said:

    If you can verify the 76 or 74 are the same (aside from the year of course), which I'm not sure they are, AND you can get me one to work from I can reproduce these for you. Not sure if that's much help, but it's an option if you can't find one elsewhere. 

     

    Just reproduced the spark plug decal for my build:

     

    Hey would you be able to reproduce one for me.

    emissions decal 1977 datsun 280z.jpg

  8. 6 hours ago, Neverdone said:

    https://skillard.com/products/braille-battery-box

     

    if the sheet metal in the normal battery area is complete crap, might want to look into this as well

     

    https://skillard.com/products/s30-battery-tray-area-patch

     

    The full tray area looks like a better fit. Any recommendations on a battery ?

     

    2 hours ago, seattlejester said:

    My bet would be fuel related. I would say if you take off the return line and I bet it will dribble by the time it shuts off, most likely a clogged filter or gummed up lines. 

     

    Please be safe when working with fuel!

    Yeah I was thinking fuel too because he was just going crazy and spraying starter fluid.

  9. 20 hours ago, bunkhouse said:

     Start with a complete tune-up including a valve adjustment. You can listen to the injectors click by using a screwdriver as a stethoscope. The pointy end touches the injector, the handle lightly pushing on your ear. There's a troubleshooting section in the factory manual that systematically goes through each elec. circuit. Most people reviving an old Bosch EFI have found it very useful. It's available as a download at classiczcars.com.

    thanks, I have started gathering documents and tools that I may need. Got the battery out to charge it and noticed the battery tray has a lot of rust issues to the point it was crumbling in my hands.  Any recommendations on new smaller battery and maybe move it to the back ?

  10. All,

     

    I ended up picking up a 1977 datsun 280z yesterday with 63k miles and matching numbers. The rust is not that bad, the floor pan on the driver side has been patched up with rivets.

     

    The guy tried to sand the paint and prime it and eventually realized that he couldn't do it.

     

    The car kinda runs but doesn't stay on for more then 30 seconds. What to check for ?

     

    What should I change to try and make it run ?

     

    Oil and oil filter change ?

    spark plugs ?

    injectors ?

     

     

    got all the service guide and owner manual downloaded ;)

    IMG_1133.jpg

    IMG_1131.jpg

    IMG_1130.jpg

    IMG_1136.jpg

  11. On 6/12/2019 at 11:24 AM, seattlejester said:

    If you don't know what to look for I would suggest finding someone who does. An extra $100 spent here or lunch or beer or whatever is going to save you weeks of work down the line, and an objective voice to tell you to walk away may be worth far more than that.

     

    https://zcarguide.com/datsun-240z-rust-inspection-guide-common-rust-areas/

    http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm

     

    Are good links. Keep in mind if some of those are gone it is most likely hiding other things. If the body has completely rusted through I would be highly suspect of the frame rails. Same with the battery tray if those are gone frame rails are most likely affected.

     

     

    Appreciate the input. The guy ending up selling it before i could get there. Search is still on.

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