billyjones454

Sorry, I'm keeping all the original switches, which is one of the reasons I want to use relays, to take the load off the old switches. The column switches are electrically isolated from the body, so I believe they can be used for either polarity. I've gone through and completely refurbished the switches, cleaned every contact, changed every plug and wire as well.

I am re-doing all the wiring in the car with a modern fuse and relay box. Pictured below are 2 options for switch locations. Either on the positive or negative side of the relay. With my admittedly limited knowledge, there seem to be some advantages to putting the switch on the negative side. 1. No need to fuse the wiring to and from the switch (obviously all pos. wires still need appropriate fuses) 2. Almost half the switch wiring is eliminated since the ground can be placed near the switch. Are there disadvantages that I'm missing? Unless there is some obvious disadvantage, I plan to put switches on the negative side for the reasons stated above. However I realize there is still a lot I have to learn. Thank you for your comments!

Thank you for this clarification. Differing requirements for how the vented gas is handled explains why I've seen several different designs. I would love to have a managed system like you're describing. Could you expand on your setup? It sounds like you have a valve that will let air in as the fuel is used, and another that will vent the vapor out in the event that pressure builds up beyond a certain pressure. Does that sound accurate? Can you link to the valves that you use? Do you have them covered or protected from debris or dust in any way? Thanks again.

I am modifying an aluminum fuel cell to be a gas tank with a fill neck that goes behind the license plate. It has 2 line ports on the bottom, and 2 vent ports on the top. I will be moving the location of the ports. However I am not quite sure what the best practices are for venting a gas tank. I've seen lots of examples of fuel cell vents, and I've seen OEM type gas tanks that have a separate vent line that goes parallel to the fill neck and terminate in the fill neck below the gas cap. I've seen some vents with hard lines that have several loops. I've seen fuel cells with rollover valves, but I have not seen those on gas tanks. Ideally I would like to run a separate line from the tank to the fill neck, however, it doesn't seem like that's accomplishing a true vent, if it's behind the gas cap. Could someone clarify some of the design features for a gas tank setup? Thanks! I failed to imbed photos. See photos of my project here: https://imgur.com/a/umu7K2J

I just tried in my JCI driveline and I have about 1/4" to 1/2" of exposed yoke

Hi, I'm doing an LS3/4l80e swap. I've got a Camaro oil pan under the engine, and the 4l80e transmission pan sits way lower than the pan, and is the lowest part of the drive train by a fair amount. My cross member has a ride height of 4", and my transmission oil pan is at 2" from the ground. Are there any aftermarket pans for the 4l80e that would give me a little more clearance? Is there anyone out there that has done a swap with a 4l80e that could chime in on how they set up their engine/trans mounts to accommodate the lower pan? Thanks!

I have a 1974 260z, I'm doing an LS swap. I'm tempted to remove the stock chasis wiring, and add a universal wiring harness. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Universal-Harness-Detailed-Instructions/dp/B01IDL6SUS The advantages I see is obv. new wiring, new fuze block, there are all sorts of weird old electronics boxes that I have no idea what they do... My big question is - I do want to drive this thing one day, how big of an undertaking is this actually? I plan on replacing all the gauges, and I'd have to modify the harness for the steering column, specifically for the blinker switch. I want it (the wiring) clean and tidy, and reliable. But I'm not ready to do a full restore. My vision is doing things in 3 or 4 stages: 1. swap and suspension. 2. interior. 3. body/exterior. But when I take the dash out and see all the old crappy heater hoses, and ancient wiring, I have a hard time just putting everything back together without upgrading it. If using the universal harness is a relatively easy process, I think I'd like to do it now, but I thought I'd see if any of you have ACTUALLY done it, and if you had any insight. Thanks!

Greetings! I finally bit the bullet and started an LS swap on my 1974 260z! It's been a little nerve racking wondering if I'll be able to get it all back together. This is my first major undertaking, and first build where I'm really putting some time and money into the project rather than skimping, and doing little mods. I've had several mis-starts, and am now trying to keep it simple. Get it on the road, and then refine things as I go. I bought a t-56 out of a CTS-V, but then realized it would take too much to convert. I recently purchased a 2009 6l ly6 and 4l80e that I've decided to use. After receiving it, and doing a little more research, I discovered that those transmissions are quite a bit bigger than their little brother the 4l60e, and so I've been contemplating switching to the 4l60e. Ultimately I decided to stay with the larger transmission because of the cost of buying a custom/alternative ecm to run the engine and different transmission. I pulled the original datsun engine/trans, cleaned up the engine bay, used my Dirty Dingo ls swap engine mounts, and got the engine mounted in the car! It looks awesome! The only problem is that 1. I bought the wrong oil pan off of Summit. It ended up being 8" deep which was way too close to the ground. So I'll have to grab a new lower profile oil pan. 2. More concerning is even the transmission oil pan is really close to the ground! The trans oil pan sits about 3.5 inches off the ground. I can tuck the tail up a little more, but ultimately the pan heigth is tied to the height of the engine, so I'm not sure what to do there. Does anyone have any thoughts? The car has been lowered, but not excessively. I'd guess the frame rails are 6-8" from the ground. I plan on putting the ECM and fuse/relay block near the firewall where the clutch cylinder was. Toward the bottom I have some pictures of the clearance issues. Thanks for any help you're able to give!