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mark928gt

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  1. Will a 260 dash fit into my 240? If so how difficult is the install?
  2. Thanks Jon. I am not a fan of the wing and I doubt it will go back on. The pantera hatch is done pretty well if you like that sort of thing. It was done all in meta with a pretty large rear window, l not a port hole like I have seen in somel. I'm not sure if I will keep it. For a street car (mainly) I'm not sure that the aerodynamics of the hatch will really be noticed. If I were tracking the car at higher speeds I would have more of a concern. I might buy another hatch and be able to interchange them. Not sure which direction I will go. I do know I will leave the curve in the body and adjust the hatch if possible. Thanks again.
  3. I am taking this Z apart. It is a project started by another person. My question is whether there is an normal arc in the rear hatch? The current rear hatch is a custom fabbed piece. As you can see in the picture the hatch is flat but the body below it has an arc. I am curious whether the arc is standard and the hatch was made incorrectly or if the hatch is correct and there should not be an arc in the piece below the hatch. I appreciate any help. Getting ready to redo this area and want to make it correct .
  4. They look great and the price is great. You can't have more than an inch of travel with these or they'll rub. Nice for the track, not sure about the street.
  5. Thanks guys. It's good to talk through it with somebody else. Branden and NewZed. I have the car supported on four identical jack stands on my garage floor at the same locations on each side. The floor is level. I have measured from the control arm mounting points on each side down to the floor. It seems to be the same but I have ordered a laser measurement tool to get better measurements. Where is the pinch weld? The rubbing occurs just on the outside of the tire. I think you are right that a different tire or offset wheel would take care of the rubbing. The wheels are 17" Rota wheels. Not sure of the model or offset. I'll measure. I'm mainly concerned about having to adjust the suspension so different at different corners. I'll measure the strut sectioning again to make sure it is the same. BTW. I say the flares are off because when I measure from the rain gutter (non modified part of the car) down to the flare opening I have about a 1/2" difference. Thanks again for the help guys!
  6. Interesting that people see such a difference between the sides with stock fenders. In my case removing the flares is a huge deal because they are fiberglassed in. I think I will take everything off of the rear end and measure each component to make sure something is not bent or put together differently. I know the coilovers were not installed correctly but they do seem to be the same from side to side. I made a cardboard template of the inside of the flare and then measured seven different points on the template. I then switched the template to the other side to make sure the flares were the same shape and to measure the location of the flare. Roughly the same shape although the DS flare appears it was pulled down a little in the middle and that is most of my side-to-side difference. Seems strange but the bottoms of the flares are in roughly the same location on each side and the top seems to be off. However that happens. I like the idea of maybe leaving the flare alone and changing the wheels to a different offset to make sure it clears. This should be done regardless probably.
  7. Wow. That's interesting. My flares were definitely added by the PO. I ordered a laser measurement device today so I can more accurately measure the frame in different places. Then I think I am going to just start taking everything off the back end and measuring them.
  8. Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum. I bought a project car that has wheel flares already installed. I won't go into the whole long story about the car. Bottom line is that with the coil overs adjusted equally on both sides of the rear the DS flare hits the tire but it does not on the PS. I've measured the frame to see if it is twisted. I do not believe the frame is twisted. Checking the bodywork I find that the DS flare is mounted about a 1/2 lower on the DS. Right now I have to adjust the coil over up about 2 inches on the DS to get a similar tire/flare gap as on the PS. It seems to me there must be something else going on beside the difference in bodywork that could cause me to have to adjust the suspension so much on that side. I did take the suspension out and measured springs, perches, struts, housing, etc. make sure all the suspension pieces were the same. I have not take off the control arms or other major parts to measure although I see nothing that is bent. Any suggestions on where to look next? Thanks for the help.
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