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Mike kZ

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Everything posted by Mike kZ

  1. The drivers side is fine, the passenger side nearest to the engine comparment and back about 1 1/2 ft I banged in the tunnel about 1 1/2 inches. To be on the safe side I would widen the drivers side 1 inch from stock and the passenger 2 inches from stock.
  2. Pete Does your fan need a resistor for the low speed? Mine does. I'll be using the two temp sensors with relays, and hope that's all I'll need.
  3. Pete, are you going to use your Rad fan as a 2 speed or 1 speed? Is that logic circuit to make it run as a 2 speed? If so I'm interested in it because I have a 2 speed fan also.
  4. Lee, how did the rear end swap go? Was the flange you got from Atlanta Z car the right one? Mike
  5. Motor Sports phone # is 1-800-633-6331 Part # 66-10-1822 for $225 + 12.97 shipping. 79-83 280ZX
  6. Check this site out, they do ZXs http://www.johnscars.com/zcar/zcar.htm
  7. Is that the 8 -6 -4 engine that drops cylinders to save on gas? If it is , stay away from it, I here it's trash.
  8. Mike kZ

    T5s ?

    No, they didn't come in a Mustang, but I think they have some sort of adapter for it to fit. I've got a '96 T56 with 20,000 miles on it. Can't wait to see what it does!
  9. Mike kZ

    T5s ?

    Lee you got some T56 numbers wrong, here's a list. '93 - 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 0.80, 0.62 400 lb-ft torque rating '94-'97 - 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, 0.74, 0.50 450 lb-ft torque rating Just for everyone's info
  10. Post some pics, I'd like to see what your talking about.
  11. Mike kZ

    T5s ?

    Wow! What a pain in the *** Lee!I did have one of those JTR flanges, but sold it because I didn't need it with my 12 bolt rear end. Again let me know if you need help, or how it goes. Yea, we can hook up at lunch or something, that would be great!
  12. Mike kZ

    T5s ?

    Good post Lee! I'd like to check out your clutch master find to see if it would work with my T56! Much cheaper alternative! P.S. Do you need help with your rear end swap?
  13. Hey lee, You might want to ask this question on zcar.com. A lot of those guys know everything about those rear ends. I know on a 12 bolt that sometimes thin shims are used to move the carrier in or out. Good luck. Mike
  14. Hey Owen, I had the same problem with my '72 240 and T56. I cut an "H" where the exhaust humps would be in the floor, and banged it up until the cross member cleared. Then welded in some sheet metal where there was a large gap. You cant tell from inside the car. Hope this helps. By the way the circled item in red is you skip shift, and the VSS is the speedo hook up. [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited March 14, 2000).]
  15. Welcome aboard! First of all go to our "Links" page and click on "JTR V8 Conversions" You need to buy this book, either by them or try Summit at 1-800-230-3030, they maybe cheaper. When you get it, read it at least 3 times. This will clear up a lot of questions you might have.
  16. Michael, It is a lot of work!!I cut out the floor, dumped the spare tire tub, and cut out the old frame. I cut the wheel wells in half and added about 4 inches of metal and welded some metal where the strut tower was and made my own wheel tubs. I used a 12 bolt with 3.73 posi and disc brakes. I used Jeg's Street/Strip suspension set up ( check Jeg's catalog for discription) and coil overs. I made the frames out of 2 X 3 rectangular tubing. The cost? about $1600 for the rear w/discs, and about $650 for the suspension. The cost of the tubing was cheap, maybe $50
  17. Myron, I don't have the exact dimensions here at work, but at home I do. This varies with rim and tire width, and how much room you want on each side of the tire. It also depends on how wide your frame tubbing is and how wide appart your frames are. Your best bet to get the exact dimension ( this is what I did ) is cut out your floor and old frame, and place the tire/wheel combo you are going to use under the car where you want it. Then measure from inside wheel to wheel. This will be your complete rear end drum to drum.( or disc to disc).
  18. SpencZ I have a set of the 461 Fuelie heads that look like they were never rebuilt. They have the smaller valves, but could be modified to fit the 2.02/1.60 valves.They also have 64cc. $200.00 If you want them.(plus shipping) [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited March 08, 2000).]
  19. Mike kZ

    3 T56's on Ebay

    As far as I can remember the T56 in the F-bodys of '98 and '99 have a different bell housing bolt pattern that wont mate to a '97 and older small block.
  20. Why is he selling it? Does he build engines for himself or others? If others I would try to find out some names and ask how their engines run. Does he have some sort of written guarantee? As for the 400 block I've also heard good and bad, so I'm not sure.
  21. Mike kZ

    Kickdown cables

    I think the '83 Monte had the TH 200-4r which is an overdrive trany the same size as a TH 350. It's a little weaker than a 700r4, and is not made anymore, harder to find parts. All non electronic auto trannys have a kick down cable.
  22. I don't think that would work, when you press the clutch peddle the slave cylinder pops out to move the clutch arm in one motion at a certain point in the peddle travel. Another words if you press the peddle a little, the slave is not poping out a little. I could be wrong, but I don't think you would have the throttle responce you want. Also if you spring a leak you have no throttle, where a cable will always be there.
  23. I'm also going to run the Edelbrock Pro-Flo EFI, and my engine builder already warned me that I should dyno the engine to break in the cam and set up the EFI. He said it takes alot of tuning to get it right, but once it is set it's great. He also told me about glowing headers when you first start running this setup, and that you have to fix it fast or you'll melt parts. So after hearing all the problems with Dan's EFI, I will be dynoing my engine!
  24. You can't go wrong with a Mig welder! You definitely need one when building a car.Do get one that uses gas, it makes a stronger and cleaner weld. As for spot and seam settings, there isn't any. A spot weld is when you weld a series of small spots just to hold the piece. Then you seam weld between the spot welds. Your going to have to do a lot of practising before you attack your car. I think some welders have a stitch weld setting, but you can do that on your own.All it is, is spot welds very close together.
  25. All very good points. I will be using front coil overs with VW Rabbit GTS strut inserts in cut down struts. Probably Ground-Control, and camber/caster plates. In the back I have coil overs on my 12 bolt chevy. I put these in so the tops are closer together than the bottom ( / ). That and the Panhard bar should keep my rear end stable in the curves. I have all polly bushings front and back. I also have a 1 1/8 front sway bar. none in the back yet, I want to see if I need one there. [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited February 17, 2000).]
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