RunNE1

The coil packs are the same. There was talk of the "truck coil packs" being better suited for turbo apps (LQ4 and LQ9 engines), but the ls packs seem to do just fine.

I don't think you want to spray at anything below 3000 rpm's. Most kits come with 3000 rpm window switches. You tend to bend rods spraying way down low in the rpm band. Have a friend that blew up his old Viper spraying without a window switch.

Well finally got the car running. The gas tank was the problem. When I removed it, I could see rust everywhere. There was a even some glue-like liquid at the bottom of the tank. I almost went the fuel cell route, but did not want to have to open the hatchback to fill the tank. So, I had the tank dipped and coated. It did not get rid of all the rust, but at least it is all coated over. Thanks for all the help guys.

Well, after rechecking the filter, I think I have found the culprit. Brown gasoline . It looks like my tank is screwed up. It seems that both the filter and fuel pickup were clogging up. Hopefully, the tank is salvageable. Thanks for all the help guys.

Thanks for the help guys. I will check the TPS today and few other things. Thanks

It is a 1980 280ZX w/ a stock engine. The only mod is a cone filter replacing the complete stock intake assembly. One other thing, I just had the exhaust redone, from the ex. manifold back. Could there be a problem there? What exactly am I looking for w/ the throttle switch? Thanks

I have tried most of the things I found in the archive post. I checked for vacuum line leaks, tears in the intake hoses, made sure all the clamps were tight, inspected the rotor. I still have a problem though. When I first start driving the car it runs fine for a few minutes. It will rev high and accelerate smoothly. After a few minutes though, if I give it too much throttle, it starts to hesitate like I hit a fuel cutoff point and them the rpms drop. I can still hear the fuel pump whirring away(stripped interior). When the rpms drop down to around 1500, it tries to accelerate again but only manages to sputter and pop. If I rev it in neutral, it does not have this problem. I did find that the hose clamps on the fuel filter I replaced a month ago were very loose. I even swapped out the air meter and it had no effect. One thing I noticed was that the output line of the fuel filter felt like it had alot more pressure than the line going into the filter. Is this normal? Any suggestions?? Thanks

I see alot of kits for sale at the LS1 sites( http://www.ls1.com/forums/index.html and http://www.ls1tech.com/ ) under the parts for sale section. You would be able to piece most of the kit together using some of the items that are up for sale. Bottle, bottle warmer, fuel lines, purge kits, foggers etc. In fact you could try looking in all the car forums that you know of and look at the parts for sale section and pretty much find everything you need. Check the NX website and get the part numbers needed to build the import EFI kit.

It seems that NX( http://www.nitrousexpress.com/welcome.htm ) is making better systems than NOS. ZEX is one of the newer companies out there. I remember reading that the stock L28 rods could take up to a 100 shot. You would probably need to run higher octane gas to run that big a shot. Nitrous is usually only used at WOT and you can use a TPS if they have one for the Z application you will more likely wind up using a microswitch. A wet system is nitrous and fuel coming from a fogger system. A dry setup would use your injectors for the fuel enrichement and a fogger for the nitrous. The added benifit of a wet system is the extra torque. You could use it at launch, but only if you have a higher stall converter because hitting it to low would probably hurt your rods. The rule of thumb is no lower than 3000 rpms and no more than 15 seconds at a time. Hope it helps.