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HybridZ

Vintage-TechZ

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Posts posted by Vintage-TechZ

  1. Remember to use the zones which will be trimmed out as sacrificial areas that you can relief cut as you place the CF cloth in its final resting place. It will tug less in regions that need it to avoid weave distortions. Some careful planning of PIECE installation and overlaps on radius' will yield a very nice console once you've made patterns and stick with it. Replication will unfold the best methods.
     

    Its looking good so far!

    Another thought for this , you could make a 1.75mm smaller MALE plug to use as a platen press or full Caul plate. Dry load the male mold (easier),then compress it into the female mold firmly and then carefully remove the male. Place in your consumables and bag up.

    To make an accurate 1.75mm male, you'll need to buy that specific thickness sheet wax as teh final part thickness. The wax sheet represents your CF final part thickness and you'll need to stick to your lay-up schedule each time when this is done.

  2. Yeah, that was initially my plan with keeping the trim piece.

     

    That would be a great place to have a seam, that the trim would then cover.

     

    Bridging definitely is a concern along that area though. If I changed some geometry then it would be much easier to lay up. I wanted to replicate the original as closely as possible. I'll adapt and change as needed.

     

    Again, though, great suggestion. Thank you for that.

     

    Another thought was to have the interior portions of the console pockets be colored black, again utilizing the trim ring area as the transition area to visible carbon. If that area's aesthetics were eliminated, the rest would be significantly easier.

     

    Like you said, it's not complex, but it certainly isn't an easy part to make either.

     

    I'm having fun playing around, that's for sure.

     

    I used non continuous pieces for the last remaining plies. I learned a lot about where I could cut and potentially blend.

     

     

    I also have had thoughts of a total redesign, with an open cavity where those pockets are, and various inserts that are separate that can be inserted/bonded/swapped later. Two separate parts would be much easier.

     

    Captain Hindsight at work once again.

     

     

    Regardless, gotta push through with the first attempt. Most likely changes will need to happen.

     

    But that's composites, isn't it? :)

     Thats right Andy! Remember, the OEM parts were pre-form glass mat with long and short strand mat. Waaaaay easier to press into the mold as it being glass which was gel coated in mold. Try using some thick clear plastic sheeting and spray gluing it into your mold to decide where each cut would be appropriate and then exacto cut or scissor the final shape as your templates making sure to use a permanant silver marker to show the weave orientation for later install of cloth. It guides your eye so your ply orientation ends up most linear. Although....sometimes, opposing weave direction can be appealing too! Artsy at that point.

  3. WHile this isn't considered a complex mold, it still can be challenging as a cosmetic part. If I might suggest....parts like these will benifit from making templates for pieces of cloth rather than one whole piece. Consider radius zones for where the cloth might marry well. The console will likely not show these blend points and if done with flair can actually make the final part look more technical.

  4. Yep he has the AUTOCLAVE!!

    I've seen the rolls of prepreg in the freezer. Definite higher costs dealing with the prepreg, but I thought it also saved at bit on the labor side.

    The autoclave kills two birds with one stone,so to speak. With vacuum still under use while added PSI serves to further compact the laminate stack during the heat cure ramp-up cycle and ramp down cycle.

     

    Within Infusion, the post cure heat cycle is simply done after an overnight room temp pre-cure.Then its placed in the post cure oven for final molecular alignment/Bonding matrix. An 8 hour cure is common.

     

    So aside to the PSI addition, refridgerator utilities and cost uptick due to resin pre-prepped cloth, both systems are close to final per part costs. EXCEPT for the mold construction cost being more! They require specific tooling if made in composites to handle the loads and higher temps. OR....go with CNC billet tooling or tooling stock.

     

    By the way, it was mentioned that Pre-preg requires De-bulking steps. Bare in mind so does Infusion if done correctly. I debulk my CF BMW Z4 coupe roofs three times with an overnight vacuum test prior to introducing resin. It helps consolodate the fibers idealy and makes the parts have a 'ring tone' when you flick your finger on them. Not a dull thud from a resin rich part.

  5. Been asked by a few about the stance of my 16" Watanabes, more pics below: 

     

    Zblueplate2.jpg

     

    image3.jpg

    image2.jpg

     

    rear strut, plenty of clearance with EMI/Eibach coilovers, fronts are similar:

    IMG_3242.jpg

     

    Project Kics up front, you can specify any bolt pattern with this set up:

    ZWilwoodProjectKics-1.jpg

     

    with track shoes, Rcomps  :)

    IMG_3339.jpg

    Looks great! How is your RB running?

  6.  

    This is HybridZ! I can see what you are doing with your car, and I'm perfectly happy with what you are doing with it. I don't need to ask you anything about the G-nose as you have already explained it in your thread.

     

     

    Simply, my point is that the 'FairladyZ' emblems are the 'wrong' emblems for a Fairlady 240ZG......

     

    The title of the thread, the replica 'Grande Nose' on the car and the word "homage" all imply that you are aiming at a certain look - a 'tip of the hat' to the original Fairlady 240ZGs, yes?

     

    But the real ZGs used 'Fairlady 240ZG' emblems ( two emblems placed side-by-side: One 'Fairlady' script, and one '240Z' ) rather than the 'FairladyZ' script you have used. 

     

    The 'FairladyZ' script emblems were only used on 2 litre ( L20A / S20 / L20AE ) engined models, and therefore not appropriate to the L24-engined 'Fairlady 240ZG' model. 

     

    It's a small detail, but worth knowing I think. 

    I'm so glad you are on this forum to chime in on these finer points! Seriously. 

     

    The car is really coming along David! I know you must be stoked to be there!

  7. I am sure he could sell you the inserts and you could install them yourself.  But I am sure that there would not be a warranty on them.  My guy busted on me so it looks like these are on the radar.  Joel.  Please post up pics of them installed on your car.  What options did you explore with them on the build?  Light placement?  Lighting sequence?  How many LEDs? Blinker options?

     I haven't heard back from him yet. It sounds like he's very busy from the description on his website though. If he says yes, that would be great.

  8. So the deal on the -7's is probably going to fall through due to bad ebay seller. It's a long horrible story.

    So that leads me to purchase the -5's or tomei m8260's. Which are the better turbos? I really can't find any reviews on the m8260's.

    From what I've researched, its seems the bet for more affordable re-building comes with the Garrett -5's. The Tomei's are a re-packaged Garrett with spec mods but both perform nearly identical. Just a thought and an opinion. I've been looking at the same choices as you.

  9. Thank you, McKinney is under 2hrs away, and i think that some of the parts used in the swap by the PO may have came from them.

     

    Bleeding the brakes last in my garage around midnight , looked up and I have 2 LAPD police officers investigating a noise complaint :rolleyes: , - agreed that i was doing nothing wrong, but apparently I have a new "sensitive" neighbor" in the condo building further down the street. I suspect the same "lady" who asked my son not to skateboard at 11am a couple of days before.   

    I'm south of Los Angeles by an hour and found a place in Westminster called JER performance. They have accomplished a handful of RB swaps and I talked to them about doing mine. Nice guys.

  10. One thing I'd like to mention. Some consideration to air movement between the radiator and larger intercoolers is a must if you'd like the benefits to an efficient max lower temp system. Leaving large open areas to the left,right,top and bottom of the units without the installation of close-off ducting is not making best use of the system.
    The coolest temps come from making sure as much free flowing air coming through the front of the car are being well ducted THROUGH the intercooler fins and then THROUGH the radiator fins as well. If there is no pressure forcing that air THROUGH these components, its just wasted around them and missing their targets or even creating buffeted air that hardly passes through at all!

    I used the rolls of aluminum flashing from hardware stores. It comes in rolls varying in widths to suit most projects and can be easily hand formed on a bench and either riveted,epoxied or tack welded to hold strong. I shared this with a friend who had overheating issues with his turbo LS1 240-sx and it dropped his issue altogether and his intake temps along with it by a very large factor.

    We did it by blocking off ANY voids in the front area where the radiator and IC where mounted firstly, then made walls completely around them so as to make one tube for the air to flow. With the aid of twin fans mounted in the space between the radiator and IC to quiet things some as well as look cleaner......its been working awesome for 10 years going now. Half inch foam strips were fashioned to seal off voids as needed. The self stick kind.

    Cardboard templates are your friend to start off tight fitment.

  11. After searching for awhile, I noticed there wasn't a concise thread covering choices on gauge sets.

    (*Mods, Delete this if its redundant please.)
     

    This thread is to share links or pictures of your installed gauges and to note what it required to dial them all in. Please note any changes you would have made if you where to do it all over again.

    I was personally looking for a smoked or blacked out type when ignition is off and then they light up when activated. Sort of like the Subaru units or the Dakota brand does.

    Any thoughts?

  12. Here is where we stand as of today. This thing has really gone overboard!!!!

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    g z3_zpsc06aa520.jpgIMG_0254_zpsf9b77bb9.jpgz1_zps197ab790.jpgz2_zpse77c3b9c.jpggoing on, one fender, tail lights in, Holley EFI placed on intake.IMG_0256_zps460668f0.jpg

     

     

     

     

    Its always amazing how long these builds can take when life gets tossed into the mix. Its looking super once David! Keep up the good work. I'm doing a multi-piece G-nose as well s the OPTIONS work wide body kit to my green 73'. I brought my 98'BCNR R33 RB26dett and awd drivetrain out here when I moved. Time will tell if I get it all dialed in and driving again.

     

    Are you going to Branson Z-fest this year?

  13. The OEM 240ZG 'overfenders' were well made, and fitted properly. Your problem is that you are confusing 'copies' of copies of copies ( sometimes 'copied' from something nowhere near the OEM shapes and quality ) with The Real Thing.

     

    If you bought the best available replication of the OEM quality, then you wouldn't have a problem. So pay Marugen Shokai for their product and be done with it. 

    I concur. If Shokai's molds were taken while his original set were still mounted to an un-repaired S30 body like I did.....the fitment is spot on. Molds made from loose parts in this category will be troublesome for all. 

     

    NOTE: I am not soliciting production from my molds at this time. It was an investment for the future.

     

    Cheers, Vinny

  14. As with anything worth tackling, these things take time. Stepping off from time to time to study all angles can yield a 'Best' outcome. The Full Race team had a nice budget and end game in play that worked well for them...but you and I seem to both want something milder than a track only car out of this.

    I love their Manifold/turbo kits, very nice components along wight eh newer EFR Borg Warner turbos. 

    1)-BW-EFR turbos
    2)-FR Twin manifold in stainless
    3)-FR merge pipes

    Adds up to about $6k pretty quick even BEFORE a AWD controller or AEM stand alone.

    ~ Do you have any pix of your new pan configuration?
    ~ Are you utilizing the R32 front and rear subframe assemblies?

  15. I have a set I made fit my 260. Traded a guy a r200 for the front and rear set new, way back in 2003. They are steel, and rust pretty quickly on the back side (chrome dip is thin).

    http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/album/611-1974-rb26dett-powered-z-car-2/

    For anyone getting new bumpers or want to keep theirs from degrading further.......when I had my factory chrome bumpers chemically stripped and re-polished and re-chromed, I took the time to Scothcbrite clean the backs and edges with the aid of Acetone and then heated them up in the hot sun and sprayed them with high quality undercoat a few light times. If you mask nicely they look awesome and take very little clean up.

     

    Mine look new after 10 years! I also used 'Sharkhide Metal Protectant' to protect the chrome from surface attacks like brake dust and bolt corrosion.

  16. Gonna keep it simple. Is my 260z early or late model and how do you tell?

    Right. Another few points would be > Basic cut-off date was mid year such as 4-5/74'.

     

    1)-deeper console tray.

    2)-Extra styling line running across the dash.

    3)-Bumber brackets are beefier than 240 and  bumper-ettes are fatter and all rubber outside. But retains earlier 240 simpler skinnier metal bumper.

    4)-I believe the doors remained as 240 up until the actual 280 introduction which relocated the lock rod pulls and panel hole for it. Perhaps others can confirm who possess them?

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