-
Posts
227 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by CarJway
-
-
He is selling these in the vendor's section, and the link is below. I bought one of the kits, and the craftsmanship is top notch.
-
Another member of the forum found this company, that will send you a kit to build your own header at home. It looks like a great idea, but has anyone had any experience with them before? He called earlier today, and said that we were looking at roughly 900-1000 for a completed header. (this was his initial estimate on the phone)
I think this might be a great alternative to the lack of turbo header support the Z community has. Check out the site/video below...
-
Yes, it is wise to run a filter before your fuel pump. I have a picture below of my fuel system, which has two inline filters.
As for locating a fuel filter, I purchased everything below from Summit. My pre-pump filter is a Professional Products inline filter. You usually want a higher Micron filter first, than a lower Micron filter pre-injectors. Most of the filters on Summit come in a NPT fitting style, so you can convert that to any type of hose you may be using. (Convert this to barbed hose, to run 12mm line, etc..)
Links to the filters I am using.
-
Kevin,
Thanks. No time on it yet. The car is almost back together after 3 years, and hope to crank it over in the next few weeks.
-
My current setup...
-
I have a external Surge Tank, so you probably won't need to crunch everything up back there like I did. (two pumps, two filters) You could use a similar bracket design, and mount the pump pretty low. (The pumps sit below the middle of the tank) Since you were concerned with rocks/road crap hitting your pump, you could mount it on the top side of this bracket, and it will be protected.
-
Wow... looks good.
-
You are using the CAS distributor right? If so, that wiring does not sound right. You should be using both shielded cables for the distributor. (White and White/Black)
White Shielded cable as follows:
Ground - W/L
Trigger - W
White/Black Shielded cable as follows:
+12V Switched - W/O
Home - W/G
I don't believe it matters if you switch the Ground and +12V cable source, but that is where I pulled my Trigger/Home from.
-
Hmmm... This probably won't help, since you need BSPT for your oil sending unit. Also try out ATPTurbo.com, they have some unique items that help for some odd situtations.
Part numbers from summit:
Distro block - 15.39 - Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) 16775NOS
1/8 npt -4AN - 4.95 - Nitrous Express (NX) 16109
1/8 BSPT 1/8 NPT - 15.39 - Auto Meter 2269
-
You can convert the BSPT thread on the block to NPT, than just use any standard NPT style block.
I have in the picture below, BSPT to NPT. Then a block that has a male NPT into the adapter. From there I use another adapter for the -4AN line to the turbo. If this looks like something useful, let me know, and I will dig up where I bought everything from.
-
I woke her up this morning, just for this shot...
(she needs a good wash too...)
-
There are quite a few guys in the Subie crowd that have switched over to a RWD platform. From the content of your posts, I assume you want a manual transaxle? If not, a quick search gave me this... Adapter Plate I have a few more links to convert to a manual and automatic transaxle, but there on my home machine. I will post some more information later today/tomorrow...
-
I had to grind down the exhaust manifold, as it had some bosses near the compressor housing. But, I also placed 2 - 1/2" 3T manifold flanges together to move the compressor as far as possible.
-
I had to work the injector clips so much to get a nice fit. There was no other way to get those injectors on there with clips; I had to hack up my injector clips.
-
A picture below... I remember the fuel rail coming with those brass hollow tubes, and long allen head screws.
-
FYI, I have heard a lot of people have had issues with the Haltech boost controller. Would you mind sending me the current maps you have?
-
Wow... That looks great.
I think I need one now...
-
Sorry for the late response. Email sent with the maps!
-
I have a few maps another member gave me, but they are for the E6. Have you gotten your car running? I am also running a E11 and hope to start my car by the end of the month!
-
That is a great write up by Austin. Here are a few other shots to give you a few more ideas. I did not dump the wastegate exhaust gases to the atmosphere, I recurculated it back in: Shown here Here is a shot of the external wastegate flange coming off of the stock manifold here.
The block off plate you speak of, you can purchese that with either a V-Band already welded on, as I did Here or just buy the plate and weld on as needed. I assume the hole you are refferring too on the compressor side is the reference port; you can reuse that, and connect that to the external waste gate.
-
I'll take one! PM sent.
-
I think it looks great... If you do make a few of these, I would gladly take one, and I know of at least one other person that would too.
-
I bought the line from the place below; they included the correct 'BSPT to NPT' adapter AND a distribution block. (Oil feed line and Pressure sender)
Click on 'Turbo and Accessories' and they also have a restrictor on there site too.
-
I love those wheels... I plan on getting those in flat black on my yellow Z. If you like the bronze, there is a set for sell in the classifieds section.
WTB Rubber Grommet for Brake Switch
in Parts Wanted
Posted
I am looking for what I assume is a rubber grommet/plug/etc that goes on the brake pedal, which triggers the brake switch. I am not sure if they are different for all the Z series, but I have a 280z. Let me know what you have, and I will Paypal the money instantly...