heavy85
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Posts posted by heavy85
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Lots of years ago 74_5.0L_Z had a drawing in his gallery for the main hoop. Use it, couldn’t fit better. Put rear downstays on top of strut towers not on the front vertical surface. I wouldn’t get fancy with X just simple diagonal in main hoop and as Jon says plus tie into the roof and B pillars. And weld a bar across between the towers. If you are tracking you want at least a hoop. The roof may be relatively stiff but folds easily on impact. Ask me how I know ....
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First question is what tire diameter and what you going to do with it. Typically Z’s seem to run 23” tire on 15” rim or 25” tire on maybe 17” rim. For 25” my experience says 3.7 for most road courses is perfect. 23” favors the 3.54. 3.9 is silly IME.
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So to end the story, not one but TWO gland nuts completely backed out prior to impact. I check these before every event because sometime the are a smidge not completely tight and even made a custom tool to tighten them in car. They were verified tight a couple days before the event and I've run this car this way for 13 years. For whatever reason after less than two laps here two of them backed all the way out. It was the right rear and left front which is why it came around so fast. I should have not been pushing so hard so early but may not have ended like this if they hadn't come out.
So am currently knee deep in putting the same engine into an RX8. I loved the Z and it hurts can never replace it but is time move on. I keep thinking of saving all the Z parts for a later date but realistically there won't be a later date. So if anyone wants to make a serious offer on EVERYTHING Z I have ..... Diamond wheels w/R7, Rota grid, random gold 15" rims, one season old pimp custom OSGiken, Nissan clutch lsd, 3.54, 3.71, 3.9 diffs, custom crossmember to mount LS1, Camaro fuel tank and plumbing, Sanderson LS headers, complete mint stock brake setup minus booster, complete race brake set-up including custom dual master w/ adjuster cable (outlaw calipers, new two piece rotors, hawk pads, 240sx rears), two sets 280zxt axles with both 240 and 280 adapters, sweet dash except notches for cage, lots of custom suspension bits (see underneath pics above but need careful inspection after incident), EMI camber plates, momo steering wheel adapter, Koni race struts, stock complete l24 long lock, 240 radiator, set of new wheel bearings, etc, etc, etc. Basically LS race Z starter kit plus spares and leftover stock bits. With a reasonable offer it can all be yours package deal.
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73 shell in IA for $600: https://www.facebook.com/groups/386021341481608/permalink/1394677927282606/?sale_post_id=1394677927282606
I don't think you're a member there Cameron. Tried to tag you and it wouldn't let me. Its the 240z 260z 280z lovers Facebook group.
That link doesnt work but I went to their Facebook page and didnt see any for sale adds.
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I also have recently sold a rust free shell 71 240z to a guy locally in lansing michigan and I'm not sure how committed he is to building it so let me know and i can give you his contact info if interested.
Sure couldn't hurt to ask. An early one would be lighter and the cage I would put in it lighter structure shouldnt matter much. I know this is a Z forum but unless could find a REALLY clean one that didn't need frame rails, dogleg, floors, etc it would likely take me a couple years to duplicate what I had with the free car build time I have. I do really want another Z but am thinking of next build to maybe be a late model with MUCH better suspension ... like possibly RX8 / LS swap. Not the best looks but seems like could be a really competitive platform. Still mulling around what to do.
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Cary - there is literally zero error on this hill. The road is no joke barely two cars wide and the entire way up, all 7 miles (video is only of top half), there are either rocks, drop-off, or ditch right at the edge of the pavement/dirt.
The view of the passenger rocker/floor is scary.
http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/gallery/album_1776/gallery_690_1776_529751.jpg
http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/gallery/album_1776/gallery_690_1776_305632.jpg
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Well Mt Washington didn't end so well.
RIP to my poor Z
Anyone have a roller 240Z looking to get rid of .....
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You guys in Europe get all the fun. There just arent people prepping old cars for rally, serious hillclimb, etc so this higher end stuff just doesn't exist in the US unless you make it yourself.
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Jon,
Are these the part number that you ordered?
http://store.drpperformance.com/bearing-spacer-legends-front-adjustable-steel/
Yep I have them on my S30. I kept wearing out the hubs as the outter race wallows out and last year actually the spindle itself was work down to the point the inner race was wobbly. I'm hoping these spacers improve that. The other thing that drives me crazy with tapered roller bearings is there will always be slop where you can slightly rock the wheel back and forth unless you really preload them which is not good. These spacers allow you to make them tight without preloading the bearing. As you play with them you will notice they are VERY sensitive - like rotating them a mm or two on the outer diameter makes a huge difference when you are down the the final setting.
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Reckon 260DET had a brain fart there and confused MCS with MCA.
MCA is an Aussie company that most of the folks down there use for their coilover conversions. Supposed to be pretty decent, although I wouldn't know if their top tier stuff compares with Penskes or not.
That makes sense - they even have picture of their S30 setup on their website.
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So you Murricans know about our MCS secret suspension advantage
With the Pacific Peso, err Aussie $, weak against the US they should be good buying right now, Murray does several grade versions for the S30, I've been running his top version for years. No rear ARB, heavy front bar and springs, it's on a knife edge and stays there courtesy MCA.Im confused unless there are two MCS'
http://motioncontrolsuspension.com/about/
US based and they don't list and Z options?
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Any update on what you went with?
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74_5.0L_Z,
I highly recommend the NASA HPDE to TT program. You will eventually get bored just going fast without lap times IME. Funny too I've landed on a setup that is really close to yours with slightly less power and slightly heavier both of which I'm procrastinating spending the $$$$$ to fix. Also same here can't get enough rear or right side weight with the V8.
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Several of us have interest in the S-1 system, but can't figure out how to order one, or if they ever made it into production.
... or they are $2650 aus but still
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What manual trans would you use? I've thought about the 350-370Z trans with adapter but with mixed reviews on durability behind a LS motors torque. Even considered a G Force T5.
Therein lies the problem. If I had the time and wanted to spend the money I would sell mine and go to 5 speed of some sort but I never got that far. First and foremost need to decide what you are going to do with it. If just have fun but not compete then it's a great option but then when you want to get to the pointy end then it's not the droid you are looking for. FYI I just had mine rebuilt and was $2400 which could have bought a nice new 5 speed. I just didn't have the time to research and modify everything to make the change so at least for now have kept the T56.
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If starting from scratch I would not do a T56. I had a complete f-body donor so went that way but for competition it really sucks. It's very heavy, shifts slow and clunky, 5th gear is way too low and 6th is unusable. Really expensive to rebuild. If you have access to a cheap functional one they fit easy, shifter lines up perfect, and are pretty durable. This is my opinion after competing with one for 9 years now.
3.90 will get you going if you already have it but is too high IME. Also depends on your tire diameter though. 3.7 vs 3.54 or otherwise is going to depend again in tire diameter and the track you run.
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27 spline for use on 280 suspension and axles. Shipped to 62521. One of mine was damaged taking the axle nut off so need replacement.
Cameron
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How are you attaching the outer rod end to the bottom of the strut assembly? Just drill it out for 5/8" bolt?
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Weatherly hill climb last year.
Then ended up last minute trip down to Road Atlanta in December where managed a 1:34. With the move this year Pikes Peak is still year(s) away however am now planning for Mt Washington in July. Had to add three bars to the cage but that's done. Need to figure out how to make the fuel pump automatically turn off when the engine dies and then should be legal. It's a really, really yumpy road with one mile of total seven mile race distance being gravel. Trying to figure out springrates as they say to run soft but am worried with bottoming. It's going to take a long time to memorize the road but that's in progress now. Mt Washington is one of the oldest races in the country and one of the most challenging hillclimbs anywhere. Should be fun.
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Strut tower braces to the firewall might do the trick.
No, the deflection is local to where the pedals mount which is too far from a typical strut tower brace. Also in that first pic I can't imagine why one would want to add the cost / complexity / and undesired degrees of freedom by putting rod ends on the two legs to the firewall. There are also lighter, more compact solutions to the firewall flex under the brake pedal but that requires modding the pedal box which is a decent amount of work to get to removing the dash etc.
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I reused the entire Camaro fuel system except for a braided Teflon line to the front. Even reused the hard lines, tee's, connectors, wire harness, etc. You can even carefully peel off the hard plastic lines from the fittings and then use fuel injection hose and clamps to connect to the tank onto the factory plastic connectors. Camaro filler in stock location just have to section and reorient it. Camaro filter. I had donor car so just reused it all. I only have the fuel pump and level gauge wires hooked up to the tank with the complete Camaro factory tank is still in place. Also have vent line hooked up the throttle body using factory Datsun fuel tube so didn't have to run another line. Have no idea if the vent line does anything but the solenoid on the intake manifold is wired up. Nothing else is wired up on the tank and I never get gas smell or pressure/vacuum on tank. Not sure why but it works well for last 8+ years. Also the Datsun fuel gauge ... empty mean you have a good amount of fuel, as needle rises to the 'F' (first letter where it says FUEL not the Full mark) it'll start to starve on racetrack which I 'think' is somewhere about 6 or 7 gallons. I think it holds like 18 gallons or something. Only reason I would ever switch is because rules or to modify to allow run less fuel.
Cameron
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IME the OBX does not work at all out the box - like as in it was basically a spool since one of the gears was machined wrong. Looked liked all the gears were machined with a torch and one was too long. Actually bought the washer / bolt kit and the 'upgrade' bolts actually looked worse than the original ones so I did not change then. The washers need changed and it's a crap shoot the orientation. Need to deburr everything and actually tighten the bolts. This worked really well for several years road racing behind an LS1 but gave up last year. Haven't taken it apart yet to see what happened. Before used the Nissan clutch and it was ok but was pushy. Replaced OBX with OS Giken clutch and it's back to pushy again so have to work on set-up. Overall I like driving the gear type better but hopefully after tuning suspension to the pimp diff it will be better but way too early to say yet.
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Yep looks familiar
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There I one ball bearing - that's the one that's sometimes really hard to find. There is also two tapered roller bearings on the pinion shaft. Three total bearings. For me it was obvious as there were chunks missing from one of the roller bearings.
With the Pacific Peso, err Aussie $, weak against the US they should be good buying right now, Murray does several grade versions for the S30, I've been running his top version for years. No rear ARB, heavy front bar and springs, it's on a knife edge and stays there courtesy MCA.
LS 240Z Race stuff sell-out
in Parts for Sale
Posted
For those that have been around a while may recognize me. Here is my last build related thread but most of the car is also documented in other threads on here:
This one shows the custom LS engine mount
Since the crash last year I have build an LS RX8 and am moving across the country soon so the Z parts unfortunately need to go. I have basically 10 years collection of Z stuff. As parts keep getting harder to find it would take a long time to piece all this together and fabricate all the custom pieces. At this point I dont have the time, energy, or patience to piece part out everything so am looking to see if anyone wants a LS race swap starter kit and all the spares I've accumulated over the years. There's a bunch of misc stuff I'm sure I have forgotten about but it includes every piece of Z stuff I own and used to campaign this car for a over a decade.
240Z front LCA w/ monoball installed
Complete custom front/rear race brake package
Custom pedal box converted to Tilton dual masters w/bias adjuster including cable
240SX rear brakes w/ fresh rotors and hawk pads
Outlaw (also fits Wilwood) 4-piston calipers on front plus spare seals and hawk pads
Fresh front rotors (single one day TT on them), two-piece higher end Wilwoods rings
Fresh stainless lines (one race since replaced)
Custom 3" front brake cooling hose backing plates
Complete stock brake sytem in good shape (no booster)
Rebuilt calipers/wheel cylinders
Rotors in almost new shape
Hawk front pads, performance rear shoes
Aluminum drums with good friction surface but beat up fins
Fresh master cylinder and old master cyl
Stainless lines
Custom rear 240Z LCA converted to a-arm w/ toe link (right side needs inspected/repaired)
Custom sectioned/reinforced 280Z strut housings (right side need inspected or replaced)
5 Koni1437-Race strut inserts, all used but usable
240Z Koni gland nuts
280Z Koni gland nuts
Custom gland nut tightening tool, allows tightening on car
Old Tokico adjustable struts (chump/lemon worthy?)
EMI bolt-in camber plates
Coilover sleeves for both 240 and 280 strut tubes (two sets)
Z appropriate mostly Hyperco springs - pair of 225, 250, 300, 375, 425, 500
Custom mustache bar to LCA braces
"Ron Tyler" style custom front diff mount
R200 Mustache bar
3.9 diff, good condition, needs cleaned and assembled
300ZX clutch style LSD not in housing, good condition
3.7 diff, rebuilt several years ago with all new bearings, w/ OBX that's now dead and stopped LSDing
3.54 diff, all new bearings w/ custom OS Giken with one season on it
Inner stub axles, at least one set
T56 to R200 custom Driveshaft Shop aluminum driveshaft (dented so I would replace the tube)
Custom front crossmember turned into k-member w/ LS mounts & matching motor plates
Stock steering rack
Stock steering arms drilled for 5/8 rod end, matching custom tie rod arms w/ bump steer adjustment
Short steering arms, unmodified
3/4" 'bumpsteer spacers'
Stock T/C rod w/ Gman ball and socket pivot bushing
Custom adjustable T/C rod w/ rod ends (one tube bent but is off the shelf coleman threaded tube)
Sanderson LS swap 1.75" headers, ceramic coated
Tilton clutch master cylinder and modified yoke to fit stock pedal box
T56 throwout bearing quick disconnect line
Complete long block L24, running when parked .... probably 25 years ago
Rota Grid 17x8.5 gold rims
Unknown 15" gold rims (came with car) w/ low mile but REALLY old dunlaps
15x10 diamond steel race rims black w/ used 275 R7 Hoosiers, tread usable for a track day
Pair of NIB ZG flairs but not sure front or rear
240Z door glass and working mechanisms
Great condition wiper motor
280Z stub axles w/ companion flanges
240Z stub axles w/ companion flanges
Set of NIB front wheel bearings plus other random bearing and seals
Front wheel bearing adjustable spacers (allows the nut to be tightened against a sleeve instead of relying on bearing preload)
Several stock companion flanges
Pair 280Z front hubs and pair of 240Z hubs
280ZXT CV axles w/ custom 240Z companion flanges (need boots replaced)
280ZXT CV axles w/ custom 280Z companion flanges (need boots replaced)
3 Stock half-shafts (I ran these without issue more than anything else)
Misc diff rebuild shims, flanges, random spare bearing, etc
Mono to Datsun steering wheel adapter
Custom bracket that mounts panaramic race rearview mirror to stock location
280Z hood vents
Inspection lids
Good condition 240 dash, no cracks BUT has corners notched around the cage
Stock front swaybar w/ custom end links (what I used)
ST front and rear swaybars
Front and rear set of adjustable inner control arm bushings
Left taillight
Lightened hood hinges
Stock 240Z radiator
Pair of stock 280Z rear LCA
Pair of stock 240Z front LCA
160 mph speedo
Urethane airdam with turn signals and custom dive planes
Asking $4,500 for EVERYTHING. Wont ship and located in Decatur (central) Illinois 62521. PM me if serious and I can take and send additional pics.