stony
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Posts posted by stony
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Yep that worked great for me. just remember to install correctly. I was lucky and had the ability to phase my coils. if not I would have had to pull it out and reinstall.
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Yes iron block, aluminum blocks are good NA but dont last as well as iron block under boost. The first motor went 40+ 800+whp passes. Would have lasted longer if i had kept rpm down... ls dosnt like 7k rpm.
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first one i found on ksl was a complete motor for 400, the most recent one i fou d was a shortblock for 300. Several junkyards sell them for 5-600 with complete harness.$300 LS, where in Utah are you finding those? I've seen a few short blocks for that or a little less but everyone seems to want a lot more for a complete long block ($500-750 on average?).
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Yes $300... i put 12k into bolt ons but my long block i just installed was 300. As far as prep... i pulled the pistons and regapped factory rings to 30 thou. Installed a cam, lifters, pushrods and oil pump. Car is making over 900 to crank. I followed all advice on internet on how to make them live except rpm. Was shifting at 7k and running it out the topat 6800 and rpm is what claimed that motor.
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Well after a lot of hammering on the first motor it developed a knock that I thought for sure was a rod. tore the motor down and could find anything. bearings were good, checked flex plate, tore trans down and nothing. found another 300 block and prepped it. bolted all my stuff to it and it started first try ;>
Took it out to the track after only 1 trip around the block and it ran a 9.28 at 148 MPH!!! damn I love this junkyard motor thing ;>
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Pretty happy with my $400.00 longblock.
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Dont post much here anymore. But car is doing well. We got the boost issues worked out and to date havent broke anything. PB et so far is 9.06 @ 151. And best mph is 154. Not as fast as the Rb yet but its coming along. If you want to see video check out my unnatural Aspiration page on facebook. Cant seen to figure out how to post a link here anymore
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I don't have any of the stock harness and those diagrams aren't much help with my limited expeirence reading those. Would be awesome if someone could tell me which of the wires I use and where they go. Especially the 3 larger gauge wires.
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I have a set of toggle switches wired in now for headlights and turn signals. I want to wire those into the stock combo switch. Need to know what wires go where.
3 stand alone large gauge wires. I THINK I HAVE THESE RIGHT BUT LET ME KNOW IF THEY ARE WRONG
1. R = BATTERY POWER
2. B = GROUND
3. WR = SWITCH 12V
6 pin plug
1. RW =
2. RB =
3. GR =
4. w =
5. GB x 2 =
9 pin plug
1. GW =
2. GL =
3. LY =
4. YL =
5. L =
6. LW =
7. YB =
8. LY =
9. LR =
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Yea RMR. Next trip will be the AUG 5th midnights. My stall issues may have been from a wastegate with too low of a spring and it was creeping open while I was trying to get on the stall. I put a 12 lb spring and it seem to come up a lot quicker and I'm getting more RPM. So maybe now we can go back to playing with the tune to get it to stall quicker.
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Got it to the track. Had some glitches mainly converter wont get on boost with trans brake. Gonna get it restalled. Best pass was a 11.1 at 129. which with the weight of the car comes in right about 470whp. was only running 7-8 PSI. cant weight to double that Boost number. specially since the 480 is still pretty much a sleep at 9 psi.
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Whats heads you running? hoping for the same numbers from a stock truck motor with a cam, springs, and BW s480. I have the 892 heads.
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Cranked the car over and got oil pressure everywhere today. just need to team up with someone to help me with getting the infinity all setup. Other then a few clamps and bolts/hardware here the there she is back together and in final configuration,
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These are the 240sx Cxracing ls swap headers. I flipped them and used LSsimple alternator brackets putting it low on the passenger side. I had to use some 90 degree plug and coil boots. but overall the fit is good. will be it SOB changing plugs though. they may fit better with the dingo mounts and turned over like they are supposed to be.
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BTW car went 50/50 with the LS swap. It was like 52/48 with the rb setup.
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I'm shooting for 850 to the wheels. 5.3, BWs480, BTR stage 2 truck cam, 1600cc injectors on e85
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Pretty stoked. Weighed the z today and it came in at 2650 with me in it. That's exactly what it weighed wet with me in it last year. Once it's got fluids should be right around 2700. Thats with all steel and glass. I may go back to fiberglass hood and go with lexan rear window.
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Down to little odds and ends. All that's left is wiring and heat wrap.
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Down to little odds and ends. All that's left is wiring and heat wrap.
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Motor and trans in for last fit checks and plumbing. engine bay painted.
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Anyone using the new infinity?? Looking for a good base startup map for a SBE setup with a small cam.
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Hope to be the last time for a while with an empty engine bay. Going to scotch bright it and recoat with POR15 tomorrow. Then motor back in after I get the oil drain bung welded in the pan, hopefully for the last time for a while.
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I got pretty luck in that the guy that bought it from me was the original owner that I bought it from. It was nearly turnkey when I sold it and included, engine, exhaust man no turbo or wastegate, intake no injectors, powerglide, torque converter aem series 2 with harness.
I bought my truck Motor for 400 bucks, put a cam, oil pump, rocker trunnions, pushrods, intake on the motor, bought aem infinity, wire harness, new turbo, put anti roll in my rear suspension, installed parachute (still needs chute), comlp0etely built hot side and cold side piping and who knows what else.
Still need converter, and chute and maybe 500 in fittings and hose and once that's done I will have broken even in the whole thing. I could have saved some money if I just run the stock motor but I wanted it to last.
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Getting there.
Posting youtube videos.
in Site Support
Posted
Cant seem to do it anymore??? any hints