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Posts posted by Silent

  1. speed density cars don't change that much in terms of dyno ar vs street. mas air cars freak. at least my ss does. my street afr is wildly different than dyno afr. i usually spend about 3-4 hours on the dyno at a time with my car. i like to test different things. dial in the afr, then tweak the timing down low. up top. so on and so forth.


    now. with that mindless banter being said. every engine behaves differently. every engine will like something different. your car may make peak hp at 12.8 vs someone else's at 13.4. same thing would go for torque. too many variables. hence why a dyno is useful. same thing goes for timing as well. some cars like a lot, some like a little. this is where egt's come into play. sort of.



    cram as many fans in front of that car as you can. dyno numbers vs street numbers vary. depending on the car, vary greatly.

  2. clutch isn't slipping. yet. it's just a matter of time. aftermarket is pretty good for the cobalts. depending on which model you have. the clutch world is pretty tricky on these. there is a wide variety of clutches and flywheels out there for them. it's just a matter of one that will release at 7800 rpms vs trying to eat a roll pin or trans in the process.


    exedy hyper single is what im going for. i tried to get them to send me a twin disk for testing. but gm racing beat me to it



    yepo the 342hp is to the front tires. i have to pull the valve cover tonight and see how the gm racing cams are wearing in


  3. newp, the only thing from gm racing is the cams i have in it which are rare in themselves.


    i wanted over 300 whp, well, i did that on the stock blower it was just way too touchy on weather. this blower flat out gets it on this car.

  4. so, i had an issue with a burnt connector. tested the white with red tracer wire that was not so nicely smoking from under the radio.



    pull the fuse box out, check it for burned connections. newp, looks brand new. cut off some of the electrical tape and trace back a bit. the wire is perfect in condition. no burned spots or anything, however the once white connector is now insulating the spade connectors quite nicely.


    pulled this connection apart, got the ole multimeter out and tested the wires.


    this is where it gets stupid.


    one side at idle 12.20

    other side. 25+ volts.




    no one it tried to burn to the ground.


    revved the car up, volts spiked upwards of 52 volts, just one this one wire.


    really odd

  5. projection is crude at best. it's more or less a replacement for the chevy tbi trucks from 87-96. some people think that tbi is a good idea. in theory it works well. in reality it has big draw backs in the end. i would honestly ditch the projection, megasquirt it using turbo z parts. you can use the same turbo if so desired. since you already have the efi pump in there with the projection kit. you're more or else well on your way.


    just my two pennies. im most likely out in left field on this


  6. I disagree, this is a flow system. Heat can't rise in a open air fashion when under pressure. The bigger importance would be efficent core flow.


    there is a temperature difference in the core itself. the same rule of heat rising still applies. just not to the degree that one would think.

  7. I think he is going on the principal of hot air raises. So if your hot side was on top and your cold side was on bottom, you would get a colder charge. I'm not sure if it would really make that much of a difference in this case though.


    yulp. every little bit helps

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