ihatejoefitz
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Posts posted by ihatejoefitz
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Surely the shipper will cover the damages...?
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amazing.
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Joe, what kind of fitting are you running in your drain plug? I read about alternatives such as using the existing feed line as the return and running the new feed line from the plug (like yours), or installing a sump.
I don't remember exact size I used. I did a lot of running around looking for a fitting that would fit the stock threads but I gave up and retapped it with I think 3/8 NPT Tap. Then I got an elbow fitting with 3/8 NPT on one end and 5/8 barbed fitting on the other. You can buy the tap and fitting at O'reilly's, make sure its pipe thread, though. Also, with this mod, you will need to keep at least a 1/4 tank of gas; Something you probably do already if you use the fickle stock sending unit.
-Joe
BTW, if I had to do it all over again, I would have used the existing feed line as a return. It is a pain fastening the lines because they run above the driveline making for a very small work area.
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Personally, I would ditch the 75 tank, there are several of us running stock 240 tanks just by relocating the outlet to drain plug. Cost ~ $5-10 (including block off caps)
I would add an electric fan - $30 (Ford Taurus j-yard brand)
I would definitely consider upgrading your brakes now as well.
Ebay is your friend. The cost estimations you've got are pretty exagerated, but its nicer to guess too high, than too low.
-Joe
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A friend of mine put some blanks on his bagged mini truck a couple years ago. 22" in back and 20" in front. He got the wheels from weld wheels (local to us) for like $115 a wheel. Anyway, he sold that truck and started another project, he called weld wheels to get the same wheel setup and now they wanted something like $400 a wheel for solids.
They looked pretty awesome on his truck, IMO.
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Joe, I'm worried about you, why hate joe fitz?
You are your own worst enemy, that sort of thing. This s/n started out as a joke, but stepping back looking at what I've done to my car... ugg. Long story short; I bought my car with a completely built n/a drivetrain and I sold it all on ebay to go turbo. The car was very fun to drive, it had a quaife style diff and a lot of tourque; I don't what I was thinking. That's probably more than you wanted to know, but I digress.
If you're going to autoX, like you stated, my opinion would be to stay away from the viscous diffs... they lock-up 'soft' and 'late'.Good info, thank you.
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thanks mark
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http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=740153
I typed in Q 45 diff in the search box. I'm not being an *******. There is a ton of info about this swap on this board
And who is joe fitz?
I know, I've read it. Most of it wasn't pertinent. (a lot of r200 vs. r230 debate) I'm mostly interested in hearing personal experiences with this differential, or if you decided to go another route, why?
-Joe Fitz
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There is a q45 in the junk yard and I'm wondering if it would be worth grabbing the differential out of it. This will eventually be my daily driver, and weekend autocrosser. I've got a l28ET and I've swapped out the original transmission, differential for a 5-speed and a r200. I assume halfshafts will have to be modified and possibly the driveshaft as well.
Anyway, let me know what you think, any experiences, ect.
TIA
Edit: this is a 72 240z
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my latest job has been ebay, selling off old parts that i have laying around, lots of money when you local j-yard will sell you about five e30 head for $80
I would buy as many as you can in that case. 5 heads is about $140 worth of aluminum scrap where I come from.
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why did you drive it around the block twice and then rip it out? I'm local, and interested, so I'm not just asking to be an ass.
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Check to make sure the ignitor has a good ground.
I had the same problem on an 81 harness, and it turned out the ignitor wasn't getting a strong enough signal from the CAS.
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That looks awesome man. When the weather gets nicer I'm going to have to come check that out. Do you ever run at heartland?
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Verry nice, would it be possible to go a bit softer on the texture though???
I was researching ways of fixing my old dash and this look's quit "up to code" for me but, I'd like it if the texture could be somewhat more discret.
You may also try some 3m rubberized undercoating that you can get from the auto parts store.
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I bought my '72 with a built L2.4, big cam, forged pistons, redone head. Anyway, I'm replacing that engine and as I'm pulling more and more NICE parts off, I'm starting to second guess myself.
Anyway, the reason for the title is, I pulled the radiator out, and realized it wasn't the stock piece. I checked the part number and it came from a 63-64 corvette. It uses the stock bracket and guide holes. pretty cool.
Edit: I've got no use (I just bought a new 280zx rad) or room for it, so its on ebay if anyone wants it.
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is getting them widened realistic? please post some contace info where we can find out! ive been waiting for these but 8" wide!
btw, these are 0 offset right?
0 offset with 4" backspace
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somebody with connections should see if they could get a group buy going.
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I went to nissan today to see if they had the replacement parts. They only had the cap, rotor, and they could replace the distributor as a whole. Looks like I'm searching for a new distributor or another way to possibly trigger MS.
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Another problem with my swap (81 zxt -> 240z). I plugged my fuel pump into the lead for switched 12 volt where the fuel pump relay is supposed to go because the relay was left behind when I pulled the engine. When I turned the key on, the fuel pump ran for a second and then stopped. Now, the green light on the ecu doesn't come on anymore.
Is there a fuse or something inside the box that I can change?
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I also found this.
I found a cheap and easy was to check the ignitor.
Remove it from the car. Attach a meter to the blue wire of the ignitor and ground the other meter lead to the coil bracket. Using a AA battery and some wire' date=' apply the + side of the battery to part of the ignitor where the yelllow w/ white stripe wire used to be connected. Every time the + side of the battery connects to the ignitor, the meter will measure a short or less that 2ohms.[/quote']
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I've searched on multiple forums and can't find any instructions on how to do this. Can somebody help me out?
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Is there a way of bench testing the external CAS I have to determine if it works or not?
Thanks
I searched and found this.
There is an easy way to test both style CAS for z car turbo engines (81-83)' date=' but both depend on the fuel circuit working because that is the indicator that the ecu is sensing.The 81 is mounted near the bottom pulley. I removed the sensor from the mount and ran a small screwdriver across each little pickup (I think there were 3). Each time the pickup was sensed by the ecu the fuel pump would turn on for about 5 seconds. You are basicly fooling the ecu into thinking the engine is running.
On the later style dizzys, remove the dizzy from the engine and hookup the wiring. Then spin the dizzy by hand. The ecu thinks the engine is running and turns the fuel pump on.
Both are fairly simple to do unless you can't hear the pump running.[/quote']
300zxTT vs. 80's 911 for Daily use
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I personally wouldnt spend that much on a modded car unless I knew the previous owner. One man's "upgrade" is another man's headache.
vote goes to the porsche.