ihatejoefitz
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Posts posted by ihatejoefitz
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Haha, Vaseline is a petroleum product
I heard on NPR today that there are two new fields coming online by the fall that will bring prices all the way back down to a very cheap $85 a barrel. Ha.
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http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=31&article_id=6594
Very cool! GTR lives up to the hype!
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The more I see people making big power with a non-p90 head and/or flat tops, the more I wish I would have gone this route. To answer the question, the price seems fair.
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Quoted from a youtube commenter, "As for the engine it's a BMW s50b30 3 litre inline 6 cylinder from the BMW M3 93-96 built by italian firm Caroli Sport."
I would love to know more about it.
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It's pretty nice, my dad always wanted a Ferrari and he's definitely not babying his first one. It is actually his daily driver. I got a ride to and from the airport in it, and have gone with him to the market in it.
He actually tried to teach me stick in it and I stalled it three times and eventually got the computer to go into lockdown as it was overheating.
I know I'm gonna catch some flak for this comment (especially on this board), but after trying to learn on the 360 I am still firmly under the impression that the work vs. benefits of a manual transmission are not worth it. To each their own, eh?
Hmmm... I'm trying to think of a worse car to learn how to drive a stick on... there aren't many. Until you drive a manual transmission you really don't get the complete experience of driving. When I drive my daily car(auto), I find myself going for the clutch with my left foot and reaching for the shifter with my right hand.
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Great quality... is this because of the video player/uploader or the camera?
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Totally losing the sleeper feel.
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People who know are probably going to want to see your msq.
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If you've got power to the car and it still wont turn over, remember to try tapping the starter with a hammer. You may also want to try to jump the terminals on the starter if that tapping doesn't help.
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My dad has a couple vacu forms at his work. I always thought making a sort of "clamshell" two piece intake manifold that could be sonic welded together would be awesome. But because of the precision needed, I think plastic injection molding would be better suited.
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There are base .msq files for almost every engine out there which makes it a lot easier to sort of learn by example. For me, it is very hard to read that guide unless I am actually looking at megatune.
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I've cleaned my injectors, however the engine is not one that I care to fix, I just like hearing it roar, so I'm not sure what this will do in the long run to your injectors.
What I did was I put a wire wheel on a drill press. locked the position, and wire wheeled any deposits off the metal part of the injectors (just for handling sake... dirty stuff sucks). Don't do this on the connector or the end of the injector, as they are plastic based materials.
I then used a car battery to quickly power the injector and click it on and off. At this point I could tell which injector was bunk... But after a couple of clicks, it worked better.
I then filled a stainless steel container with varsol, and left the injectors and o-rings in the varsol. I filled it part way up so that the tips of the injectors were positioned downward. 2 days later, I opened up the container, and battery tested the injectors and they all clicked louder than before, signifying that they were freed up to an extent. Looking in the varsol, I saw clumps of dirt and crud floating around. Thus, the conclusion that it did draw something out of the injectors.
Put them all on, and started it up..... still a wonky idle...toiling over what's wrong... I realized that this time around, I left the 6th spark plug wire disconnected... Once reconnected, it ran great, all the way to 7000.
Thanks, exactly the kind of info I was looking for.
I also found this,
sounds to me like your injectors are not all firing. sometimes if a motor sits for a while the injectors get clogged or stuck or something. you can test to see if they are opening, by giving them power from like a 9 volt battery. if you hear a clicking sound they are good, if not they are clogged or stuck.two ways to fix a bad injector that i have found, first, a good tap with a hammer-be very careful, second, soak the injector in simple green over night.
hopefully this help you.
also i would not say opti b/c you have spark at all the plugs
Now that school has started, I've got plenty of time between days when I can actually work on the car. I will probably be trying both methods.
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I started today by pulling the fuel rail with injectors still connected from the intake manifold. I turned the car over to see if I got any spray at all. There was none. I wondered if it was possible that all six injectors could be clogged completely. I grabbed a spare injector and threw it on, turned over the car and saw that it was spraying as normal.
My question is, does anybody know of a do-it-yourself way to clean these injectors. I've already painted and polished the little mounts, the other injectors I have use different mounts so, I'd like be able to clean and use the nicer looking ones.
Thanks.
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Between work and school, I haven't had a chance to get back out in the garage. Maybe Saturday...
Is there a way to monitor pulsewidth in Megatune? Can it be considered accurate?
i have having this exact same problem as of late, signal in MS, fuel pump running, megatune says i have a pulsewith etc, just no gas if i pull the plug, just a priming pulse, dont mean to jack the thread, but intrested in the resultthanks guys,
matt
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Getting a little political here, but here is the reason for the short range batteries.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel-metal_hydride_battery#Patent_encumbrance_of_NiMH_batteries
Basically, the patents to better batteries have been bought, and the patent owners refuse to let them be used in fully electric cars.
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50 miles a day!?
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You know, this is a good question. I've wired the pump directly to a switched 12v source, maybe the pump isn't getting power during cranking. However, there should still be enough pressure in the line to at least give the engine a little stumble. I'll check that out next time. I know its got spark because I've pulled a plug and seen it spark during cranking.
Thanks for the help.
You said you have spark that appears to be correct. Lets check everything and make sure you have fuel and spark.Is the fuel pump running when you first turn the key on?.
Does the pump also run while your cranking the engine?.
Did you check fuel flow from the filter to the rail while the engine is cranking over?.
Does the coil wire have spark to the cap?.
What about spark at the plug wires?.
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Okay, thanks for all you help so far. I've got spark that appears to be correct. I haven't gotten a chance to to put a timing light on it but that will be next weekend I guess.
Again, my car is a 72 with an 83 L28ET, MSnS_E v.021s (I will be upgrading soon, just want proof on concept here) .MSQ...
http://www.reynoldsanddanielle.com/pictures/CarStuff/MSnS/MOBY/msns_extra021u_settings.zip
Anyway, I haven't gotten the car to start yet. The car doesn't even begin to start, it just cranks with out any ignition whatsoever. I don't think I'm getting fuel from the injectors. After cranking, I'll pull a spark plug and it will be bone dry. I've plugged in one of those injector harness tester lights and it flashes, so this gives me hope. I pulled a fuel line off of the fuel rail and there is a good amount of fuel flow. I've tried two different stock pressure regulators.
I'm at a loss, what could the problem be?
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Something easily overlooked is the TPS.
If you wire it backwards the MS box goes into "flood clear" mode and doesn't squirt fuel.
Mario
The realtime display gives an accurate reading for my TPS, but I'll double check it tomorrow.
I checked for power with the key on and I get 12v before and after the resistor pack. Of course I checked the fuses... any other ideas?
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Stock turbo injectors. I don't have a gauge, but there is pressure at the rail because I fixed a leak like 30 minutes ago, haha.
Injectors wired like this.
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You also need 12 volts connected to the positive side of the coil. This 12 volts comes on when the key is turned to on or cranking to power the coil. The schematic in the sticky does not show this, but the written section about coil wiring mentions it.
You're the man, that's what I needed I guess. I've got spark, but still not starting. I pulled a spark plug and it was completely dry. I put the multimeter on one of the fuel injector connectors and it showed about 1 volt during cranking.
Artistic video of the Z
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Another cool vid, man. You should make this sort of like an intro and transition in to a little heavier music and some street thrashing.