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ya i think you got a deal. I cant even find those around me normally.

thanks a bunch guys, im off to bash the tunnel more. Also thanks for teh info about the cooler lines, i had totally forgot about them

I just got my lt1 with a 4l60e in my 1973 240 z. I have the two motor monts bolted in, but not tight. I have already bashed the tunnel and cut off the "ears" inside the tunnel. I have put on the different tailhousing that has the tranny mont farther back. Ok with all of that out of the way, i am trying to bolt the transmission crossmember up to the floor pan but it does not fit. The two humps get in the way. Do i need to bash the floor pan/tunnel so that it will make the tunnel wider down below? Or did i screw up some where. Also what side does the larger of the two humps go on, i think it is the driver side just want to double check.

Well i think you should start with this Get a 9volt battery and hook it up to one of your injectors that you think is not working. If you hear a little "click" then the injector is fine your wiring is wrong. But if you do not get a "click" then your injector is bad and try another one. This should let you know if your injectors are bad, or your wiring is wrong

Maybe a shot in the dark here but oh well. Are you till using the stock AMP gauge, if so and you are using a more powerful alternator the wires behind you dash could be getting very hot. It could be getting so hot it shorted out something. Also dont forget most of the stock Z wiring was no made for a high powered alternator.

275 hp then in 1996 up to 285 hp

The main prob with the 1993 LT1 is the ECU, it is not Flash based so you have to "burn" a chip everytime you want to change anything. Also you have to have the software and hardware to make the chips, could be $$$$. But if its flash based like the 95 all you need is a cable, like 50$, and the Tuner cat software about 50-60$ more. then you can tune it all you want with just a simple laptop. So if you want to be able to "tune" the lt1 get the 95 for sure. But if tuning is not a prob just get the 93 Lt1. And dont forget that the 95 can run off of MAP as well, with no tuning required. JUst do not plug in the mass and the ecu goes back to MAP based. Also if you want to know all iron head LT1's have the vented opti and flash based ecu One last thing the vented opti's have the better timing chain, that can be upgraded if need be. The non vented opti will have to be upgraded with a new timing cover, opti, and a few other little things if you want to change the timing belt.

Well you may already know these already, oh well Check the spark plugs, they will tell you the most about the motor, they should be brownish, uniform, should not smell like oil or look like it has oil. Check all of the rubber hoses, like smog stuff, make sure there are no cracks, make sure they do not look like they have been removed and then put back on. Check all of the electrical conections. Just like the hoses make sure there are no cracks. Open the throttle body up and stick something in there like your hand, and see what comes out. Hopefully nothing out of the norm. if you can, take the oilpan off. See whats inside. Use your "gut" it will be your best bet.

I would stay away from it. It will be way to much work. You should just use a normal cooler and cap the old lines. But if you do plan on doing it that would be cool, so get some pics.

i got them in thanks guys Also the size that fits is 1/4 O.D Pipe Thread, it took forever to figure out was a pipe thread

Just an easy question. When i tap the hole in the set back plate, should the knock sensor go all the way through. I would think it should because other wise it would only go in like 1/4 inch or so. Also i found my camera so i ll have pics later today. Thanks

Dude wheelman you are so right about moving the knock sensors to teh set back plate with the JTR kit. Thanks so much. Also as soon as i find my camera i will get lots of pics

yes you are correct about the camaros and firebirds only running one knock sensor. Also i would love to see the pics but for some reason they are not working for me.

do you have the same headers that i have? does having two sensors, or having the iron heads make a difference?

I have an LT1 out for a 1994 impala ss, the one with 2 knock sensors going into my 240z. I have just put my block hugger headers on, the ones from JTR, the sanderson ones. Well the outlet for the headers is right above the knock sensor on each side. What have you guys done? Put a nice heat sheild on one if not two of the sensors? Run no knock sensors? Relocate them some how? I do have tuner cat and i think i can remove the knock sensors but i would like to keep them.