Jump to content
HybridZ

Dan Juday

Members
  • Posts

    2009
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by Dan Juday

  1. "Puller" fans are more efficient. It has more to do with the properties of air low. Your get better flow over a heat exchanger (in this case a radiator) by inducing a low pressure over the back side and drawing the air through it.

     

    Trying to "push" the air through the front creates much more turbulence and much less actual air flow per unit of energy consumed by the fan motor.

     

    If you look at any industrial heat exchanger, like say your home air conditioner, you will see this is how they are all designed. It's just the characteristics of fluid dynamics.

     

    With cars though, things like proper engineering take a back seat to style and packaging.

     

    Oh, and having the obstruction of the fan assembly in front of the radiator isn't any worse than having it behind the radiator. Wherever it is in the path of the air flow it will be a restriction.

     

  2. I would encourage you to make a mold. You might be able to sell one or two if the design is a hit. But make the motivation for your effort your car and not hopes of making money.

     

    I like the idea of options. I have a fiberglass dash cap that was designed for the Tomahawk Z kit, I like the fact that it is different and gives me a place to mount another gauge.

  3. That's the only German car that churns my juices. The wife loves them too. She likes the coupe and would be happy with the V8. Much cheaper but still not close enough for my budget.

     

    When I first saw one in person I was surprized at how small the car is. They look much larger in pictures, at least to me.

  4. Just my experiance, yours may vary:

     

    I've lived in California all my 50 years and I have never run a front plate on any of my personal cars and trucks. I just think they look ugly.

     

    I always keep the plate somewhere in the vehicle and I have a prepared story for the officer, "I've ordered the mounting bracket but it hasn't come in yet".

     

    But I have NEVER been been bothered about it from any type of officer. Never even asked. I've been pulled over for other infractions (it's been quite a while since the last time) but none were ever interested in checking my front plate.

  5. Still hoping that you would seriously consider making the top steering column clamshell with a centered, rounded 2-1/16" gauge provision for a boost or air/fuel gauge, with turn signal indicators for those of us that have changed to aftermarket speedo/tach's.

     

     

    +2 Just tell me where to send the check.

     

    I'm also up for replacements for the interior plastic trim panels. And the rear interior quarter panels with the vapor tank bump removed.

  6. Just to confirm Leon's assertion: That is a 1972 and later R180 bar. I whipped out my JTR book (7th ed. page 6-5) and your picture #2 matches the books picture exactly. And all S30's after the diff-shift rearward had the curved rear crossmember.

     

    Might be worth your while to just pick up an R200 bar while you have everything apart. The enlarged holes in the bar you have look like they may have be done with a torch. Not unheard of since the bar is spring steel and tears up drill bits. If it was done with heat that bar is likely weakened in that area.

  7. I made the misstake of bolting the plates on top of the slotted towers because I saw a picture with them mounted that way and the kit didn't come with any instructions. Pretty bone head for a guy who prides himself on his engineering skills. But I drove it that way for a couple of years without any problems. Just a street car and not really pushed very hard.

     

    When I finally stumbled on a thread here that talked about this issue I cringed at my stupidity. The problem was they look so good that way and so crappy looking when installed correctly. So, I was doing some other welding in the engine bay anyways, I fabbed up a couple of steel copies and welded them to the underside of the tower tops. A couple of slightly longer bolts later and now I can have the clean look of the anodized aluminum plates on top and the funtional steel reinforcements where they belong on the underside.

     

    Overkill and a little extra weight for a race car but mine is more show than go.

     

    DSCF3038m.jpg

  8. His add says it has a reserve, If the winning bid is 5 grand over his reserve price. He will replace the back window and replace the a/c compressor. If the Auction is a No- Reserve one, Maybe you should contact him to make sure he didn't make a mistake. :)

     

    He's a she. ;) (The owner is behind the ropes in the second picture.)

     

    And, as you can see by the incredible car she built, doesn't make mistakes.

     

    I'm waiting for her next creation. Wish I had the loot to buy this one.

  9. Revisit the rear radiator mount idea. Install a Pantera hatch louvre/slot the flat section. Mount the radiator flat and louvre/slot the floor. Weld in some sheet metal to close off the radiator area from the cabin. Plenty of room for fans and helps shift some of the weight rearward. And score bonus points on the cool scale.

×
×
  • Create New...