savageskaterkid
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Posts posted by savageskaterkid
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My 78' 280z has little rust around the car, although it needs some patches done for the floors. I wish I had what you were looking for, as I love the MR2 and actually the Jeep too, which is surprising as I'm not a fan of Jeeps lol
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Was not Corzette. It could have possible been AZcarbum?
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Its been quite some time since I have posted or even visited the site. I am finally getting to the point of starting to work on my Z once again. I bought an SK turbo plenum from a member on here and it seems as though all my messages have been deleted since I was an active member, so I can't go back through past emails. I can not for the life of me remember exactly which user it was. He used to purchase and bring over authentic JDM S30 parts from Japan. I no longer have the SK plenum anymore but am interested in sourcing a few parts. Let me know if anybody knows who I'm referring to, as he did a great job last time and I would like to do business again.
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If you and a buddy can get access to a truck you can have my motor if you pull it, take the trans too if it makes it any easier. Couple motor mount and couple trans mount bolts and its on its way out. I haven't had much time to touch my car and plan to pull my motor at some point and sell it, but if you'll pull it the motor is yours. 0 miles on it, just been sitting for like 3 years. 2mm headgasket, ARP studs, new bearings and rings, head rebuilt. Was setup for boost but gave up on the project and moving to a diffrent setup. Its got a few stripped oil pan and valve cover bolts(I know, it was years ago-I was younger, dumber, and in a rush) Other then that its great. I can't seem to find paperwork showing the parts I purchased as well as machine work. But its not like that will offset the price of free much anyway haha.
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I've been kind of a shadow to hybridz lately, I've completely missed your new build. Looks like its gonna be NASTY!!
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Very nice work man! I am getting pretty good venting also through my 38mm Turbonetics Evo gate on a 15lbs spring. I have yet to see over 15psi in a datalog. Unfortunatly I have to get rid of my manifold because of space restrictions in a ZX with the size turbo I'm using.
I may be interested in your manifold, but it wouldn't be till after xmas
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Also, this doesn't have to be just for hondas, I suppose I could make them for any car. I'd rather not do anything with V-engines at the moment till we iron out any issues that will surely present themselves, but inline engines seem like they wouldn't be too bad.
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I am about to start making ITB manifolds for various cars, and was wondering what people have input wise to take into consideration. It will be mostly for hondas, but people on this forum tend to have a bit more knowledge overall vs. certain honda forums where you search for days to find some info that could be right.
There are various kits out there for ITBs, although they are way expensive and there is a decent market for them. Alot of people like to use motorcycle ITBs, but its all about fabbing it up yourself. I wanna design an intake the can use motorcycle ITBs for a bolt on setup.
I wanna get some input from the members here based on performance and appeal, and what you think would be the most beneficial when it comes to the following:
Runner length?
Taper?
Size of ITB vs. Intake port size?
Placement of Injector?
Anything else?
With placement of injectors I've seen people use the factory bike injectors, and I've seen them use factory car injectors in the stock location. I can put the injectors anywhere I want really, just wondering what everyone thinks.
We have a small machine shop at our disposal so we can make the prototypes in house and have a means of mass producing it if there is enough of a market.
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This years Ztoberfest is today!!!!! I've been searching and searching every site trying to find the day and was about to give up when yesterday Victory Nissan said that it was TODAY!!! I know its last minute but some hybridz guys should head on out so I'm not stuck with all the purists that will most likely be there. Its at Victory Nissan on W. Broad street in richmond, same as its been.
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let me know whats up, hopefully I'll fall into some paper soon enough
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gotta save my pennies for a bit as I really wanna get my Z going once again
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so everything but the shortblock?
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Saving up to once again go back with the L28et, YET AGAIN. Looking to get an idea of what they're going for now. Complete running motor with all electronics, wiring, and ecu. Not sure what they're going for nowadays, closer to VA is better.
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I got one if you're lookin PM me
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If anyone else has one let me know, didn't wanna clutter the place with another thread asking for the same thing
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if hes talking about the efi101 I'm thinking of, then its not a book, its a class.
http://www.efi101.com depending on what you already know it can be VERY informative or not at all. A local guy has been tuning for years and didn't get anything out of it, but some others with a nice bit of experiance learned quite a bit. For someone who doesn't have any tuning experiance it should be a nice bit of info. It can be quite pricey and its only in select places, so you may have to travel.
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Maximum boost by Corkey Bell is a must, it goes over sizing injectors and the such as well as fuel requirments compression ratios......ect
Building & Tuning High Performance Electronic Injection by Ben Strader is also a pretty good book, goes over imputs and outputs and diffrences between diffrent types of sensors and all. It also goes over specific Engine managment systems, although MS isn't one of them
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saw one in F&F4 lol
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It may be a stupid question but are all stock projectors pretty much the same? I see the RX8s have 2 projectors on each housing and am wondering if they were the same or different. Do some project at different angles?
Does the projector have to be a certain distance from the lens that covers it?
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Decided to look into the pressure relief valve idea as a failure. There is no pressure relief at the filter housing. Some engines have them in the filter housing, others have it in the pump-some even have both. This is only from what I've read so I'm not 100% positive. Mine does not have a check valve at the filter housing, so that isn't the cause if it doesn't exist there. I put the old Kawasaki Filter and fired it up, only to find......that it WORKED. Did not blow the gasket and all was well. I took off the gasket from the amsoil filter and let it sit and it reformed yet again, with no flaws. I don't understand why this would happen.
I could see a possibility of it happening on a cheap off brand filter, but amsoil? They usually tend to be excellent quality, and its just baffling. I have a VERY long shot guess, maybe the actual hole where my oil comes into the housing is covered by the gasket somehow? Maybe it is a defect filter internally and thats it?
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The bike is an 03 Kawasaki ZX600e, the ZZR600. It was not double-gasketed(double O-ringed) The original gasket on the old filter can't really stick to the block, its actually held onto the filter with metal retainers of somesort that are built into the filter(I assume its a kawasaki filter)
I've pulled off the filter and replaced the gasket in the filter and it did the same thing. There was NO remaining gasket on the filter housing.
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On my bike I've recently changed the oil to Amsoil 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil. The bike calls for 10w-40, so it is the right weight and all. I also used an Amsoil filter. I did this about 50-70 miles ago. The other day I went and started it up and after a few seconds I heard a slight metal to metal contact noise, didn't sound like detenation, or valve tap or a knock-not sure what it was. Then I looked down to find where it came from and oil was dumping out the bottom of my bike, so I cut it off. The oil was coming from the filter, and noticed it had a blown gasket. I pulled the filter off, and went to get another filter gasket to see if it solved my problem. After a few minutes the gasket formed into shape again, with no assistance. I visually inspected it for any flaws and it looked perfect. I decided to reuse it to(I know its probably not the best thing, but I did it only to see if that was the issue or not.) I added oil and put the filter back on. When I started the bike I heard that same metal to metal noise-it wasn't a long noise, just a quick ping. I looked down and oil was pouring out again, so I cut it off again. Everyone is saying its a faulty filter, but I want to make sure first, as I don't wanna look like a jackass to find out it wasn't the filter, not to mention another 20 bucks for filter and a little over 30 for the oil.
I think the most possible cause is the pressure relief valve didn't vent pressure and caused it to blow? Usually the filter itself will expand and buldge a bit before a gasket blows, but amsoil may be using a stronger case that may not expand and just blow the gasket. The slight ping I heard may be the checkball actually hitting the housing? If it was a faulty filter it would most likely screw up when I first did the oil change, not miles later-on startup no less. If it is this problem what is the best way to fix it. I know that they can get caught up at times, cause a failure, and free up before someone goes to inspect it. I don't want this to happen again, luckily it didn't happen while I was riding as an oily tire in a turn wouldn't be a blessing.
Before posting read this, as I've had so many people question me if I did the oil change right and such. It may not be the best job, but I've been changing oil for over 3 years now at a shop, longer then that on my own. Out of the thousands of cars I've had to service I've never had a single problem with a filter, other then a double gasket, which I notice as soon as I put the new filter on and feel something wrong. Never have I had a car like that leave the shop, or even start before I realise the mistake. The bike was not double gasketed.
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I have a few on my phone, I'll see if I can't upload them later
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the avatar said it all, I just couldn't remember the name.
4g63/240z
in Other Engines
Posted
I bought a Bill Hichner bellhousing, I'm hoping to use it sometime soon! I want to say I spent around $250 for a 4G to W-series bellhousing a few years back. The bellhousing looks top notch too!
I've been out of the game for awhile, but I'm lurking again to hopefully jump start the 4G-Z!!!