BrandonsZ
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Posts posted by BrandonsZ
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Mine were the "D" style
"240Z had 14-inch wheel hubcaps with five rectangular holes and large chrome D (for Datsun) in the center. 260Z and 280Z had 14-inch wheel hubcaps with five triangular holes and a large Z in the center. "
I guess the "D" means $
But hold the phone, the ashtray is worth $100??? I got one I'm not using! Really? $100
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Well...
1. I treid to "roll the fenders", that didn't turn out as well as I had hoped.
2. I cut a few wires that didn't seem to do anything, still wondering what they did.
3. Anything crossed by the exhaust needs to be accessed after the exhaust is taken out.
4. To change the clutch you're going to have to remove the whole drivetrane.
5. 3/4 of the marker lights are let's say "special". Yes they were rusted to hell, yes the bulb broke off when I needed to replace it, yes I hard soldered in a bulb 3X. Who sells the crappy steel sidemarkers?
#1 really depresses me sometimes especially when one of my drunk friends remarks, "what happened to your fenders?" It's not that bad, just look's bad the closer you get to it.
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I sold a set of really rusted hubcaps for over $140, I was certainly surprised they sold for that much. They were rusted, pitted, I sent people interested many pictures of the rust close up and they were still interested, some were out of the country and couldn't bid somehow, and wanted me to sell to them directly, why? Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone wants rusted bent 14" rims with extreamly cracked tires before I pay $5.00 to dispose of them.
Maybe I shouldn't have thrown out that old radio with the missing knobs. -
That should clean up nicely! Just a few cans of POR-15, and a few more welding rods. Give him some time. You know, I myself started with a car that was less than stellar. It's still less than stellar, but that's besides the point.
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come to find out, the socket was rusted out and the lightbulb broke off in the socket, had to be pried out with pliers and there are no replacement fixtures available.
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... to have him give it a final diagnostic before giving up on the EFI system and converting back to a 4 bbl set up. ...
DanJ
I almost had that $100!!! Dang. Must feel pretty good to finally find the problem, I hadf this horrible backfiring problem on my (carburated) truck and turns out the vac advance hose had a leak so every time I put the pedal down it backfired! I truely tried everything short of buying a new distributor, found it in about 5 minutes after I tried to move the vac advance to the other port because it wasn't advancing as much as it should. Silly. Had no power, and backfired all the time, just a tiny little crack in the line. IT WAS A NEW PLUG on the port!
Congrats!
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You should probably read a sticky before the admins come down on you for your language. For some crazy reason they like proper punctuation, sentance structure and spelling.
--translation--
is lie dis yo, ya gatta giv big props to the admin dog. g's got it goin on fa shizzle. you cant type street in Run's house dig?
~peace out~
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Ah yes, this is a common problem. I have an answer for you sure enough. It's missing because you don't have enough blinker fuel in the #2 auxiliarry turbine. Yes, I know you say, what the heck is the #2 auxiliarry turbine doing with a low fuel indication when the #4 is purring like a kitten, I say to that, good question, it's simple, you see when your blinker fuel is low, it causes a thermal shift in the proximity detector which will in turn randomly activted the safety protocol. This leads to messy "missed" responces from the computer center. Of course once you return the blinker fuel to it's proper level you may still experiance misses, that would then indeed be a gremlin. No not that fantastic 70's dreamride, but that little green furry bugger that wont' stop cranking on your nuts. Just go out and buy yourself some gremlin repelant, Calco auto used to sell that, but not lately, due to the oil shortage. Good luck!
Oh, and since this is a Japaneese car, you'll have to get the Japaneese Gremlin repellant. It's a little more exensive but you knew that would be the case when you went out and bought a foriegn car.
Hope this helps! oh you could also search, or give more information, people round here are usually really willing to help, anyway, but you could try to search. Or just write another vague sentance like, "car won't start what do I do" or "what's matter with my g'ride humpty?" We here (members) at Hybrid Z really respect the peeps and give big props to the cause. Wot wot?
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what you are describing is typical of a lean condition, turning your AFM lean was the mistake. You could have gotten about 10% increase in mileage running lean instead of rich, but obviously you've paid the price of the cat and possibly other things.
Yes if you run lean you WILL run hot, and red hot manifolds are s sure sign. Search the forum for a more detailed explaination if you do not get one here.
Oh and yes you will eventually damage you engine by running lean which is why usually we run a little rich to be safe.
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It gets even better:
You can sell your video game character on Ebay. Not cheap either.
(Shakes head and mutters "WTF?")
Mike
1999, a Diablo II sword was sold for over $1000. I can't remember how much over. It was on the news.
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Tom Lycas would be proud. No "Hail Marry" needed.
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Hey maybe that Prius is looking good after all.
If Hybrids like the Prius don't need smog checking, and CA has no inspectons, I'm thinking someone could pull off a smog exempt V8 Prius?
Of course that'd be illegal and immoral, so I'm too chicken to do it. My car actually has MORE smog related components than the stock Z did. The exhaust coming out of my car actually smells like nothing compared with the exhaust coming out of my Volvo which smells like burnt oil and unburnt gas.
When CA passes whatever crappy law and I can't pass smog from my Z or truck, I'm going to take a 1950's truck, put the drivetrain from my Z and the 4x4 guts of my 1973 F250 truck to create a bad ass 4x4 styleside.
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Well, having a girlfriend at all sort of drops your nerd level, don't you think?
Nerds sometimes get married... I don't know how, but they do.
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WOW...
I was never that bad.. I'm starting to think I wasn't a computer geek after all. Certainly my self-ban on internet gaming has probably kept me out of this relm indefinately. -
Or chip foose
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It was more like,
Me: "Wow look I've never seena bear, oh wow those are cubs *screeeeech!*." door opens I run for a closer shot and take a few shots,
Cubs: "Cool a human, I've never seen one of those, take my picture, Cheeeze!"
then notice the mother bear just off the road...
Me: "duh..."
Bear: "Hi, how are you, I'm waving, why won't he wave back. Wait let me stand up maybe he can't see me in this tall grass."
Me: "Oh crap... now I need to change my shorts." Run back to the car, frantically try to start, lock the doors.
Cubs: "awwww mom you scared him off!"
Mother: "Wait let me chase after him and explain there is no danger." Bear rus toward the car.
Me: "Come on, come on start! dam you! crappy carburated nightmare." *varoom* *Chirp chirp* *waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa -redline-*...
Me: "Whew!... what smells?"
Cubs: "Ohhhhh what stinks?!"
Bear: "He smelled anyway, let's go find some berries."
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Rims are on order anyway, but I was told that those bolt-on spacers were dangerous, I guess I should have just gotten them anyway, I just felt safer having the bolt-thru kind. A comedy of errors.
Good luck, the rims I ordered will not need spacers.
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Junk yards in my area are strictly Spanish speaking, gouge all the whities and have no clue what a Datsun is, don’t understand the word “tailgateâ€, and watch you like a piece of meat as you walk around the poorly stacked and harshly picked over cars. Any cars that aren’t picked over are for sale “as is†with junk title for as much as a clear title version of same year. Supply and demand, a lot of people here, and few yards I guess.
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Being Gen-X I don’t know any peers who wear those types of shirts... other than geeks, no offense. I do however see a lot of people who would wear that shirt, they’re older, much fatter and usually they wear XXL and have coffee stains on them. No offence.
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1st question; what were the spacers made of? (steel or aluminum?)
2nd question; How tight did they fit over the hub and studs?
3rd question; Were the spacers centered and consentric?
4th question; How much thread engagement did you have in the lug nuts?
1. Magnesium (HKS) I got thru bolt so that I wouldn't worry about the spacer coming apart... plus I couldn't readily get the bolt on ones.
2, 3. They were a perfect fit over the hub very close tolerance, but the studs had huge clearance holes to go thru, like 1/2" or more. So the studs were basically free to bend over the extra 1" distance.
4. The bolts were 2" the original were 1". 1" spacer had exactly the same thread engagement as stock, a lot.
I should have gotten the first clue when I first put on the wheel and it looked out of round, yet the same tire on the back was not out of round. The bolts simply did not self center. I am pinched for cash (right after freekin Christmas) so this is a tough time to buy rims... the credit card bill is going to be tough this month.
I should have saved the $100 for the spacers, and ~800 for the brakes and put those toward new rims in the first place.
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Is it like a baby bird that now if you touch the baby the mother won't want it?
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He probably placed the first bid himself, or asked a friend to place it, nobody is going to pay over 100 for that.
Maybe I shouldn't have thrown out that old radio with the missing knobs.
Post a Update on your project Z's!!!! everybody!
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Running the 350 since October 2005, daily driver since December 2005, had three problems in nearly two years and 15kmiles.
1. The throttle cable snapped in the first 5k (MSA 350 conversion cable) bad design.
2. I put a vacuum hose nipple on the gasoline return line temporarily... only I forgot about it and it eventually cracked and the pressure in the tank when the tank heated on a hot day pushed gas out the return line (must have been left in the line from December 2004's last run with the six). Luckily it didn't catch fire since it was nowhere near the exhaust. I put a fuel hose on it , bent it over and clamped it, no problem since.
3. Eventually I need to flip the JTR transmission bar (apparently I installed it upside down), it scrapes on speed bumps, but so does the 2.5" dual part of the exhaust...
I do have guide rails and a belly plate on my shelf just waiting to go on. I just like driving the car so much I don't want to put it out of commission to re do the exhaust and transmission bar.
I finally got all new bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, etc, and moved the lower control arm attachment points per JTR and removed the 1/2" spacers. The drivability is amazingly better. I had all the usual problems, drifting, bad bump steer, really rough ride, now it's really as smooth as my 1991 Volvo, but so much more controllable obviously.
The steering is very sensitive, and even less than a 1/4" oz tire out of balance translates to a slightly vibrating steering wheel on the freeway.
My next phase will install a lightweight flywheel and a 200 rear, but it'll require a new driveshaft so I'm stalling on that one because as I said, I just really like driving it and a the tone of the exhaust on the freeway at 65-70 is very satisfying (at under 1500rpm with the .5 6th ratio) and I don't want to mess that up with a slightly higher rear.
the catalytic converter is holding up, it almost never smells now only if I'm costing for a long distance as the cat falls out of it's operating range of stochastic ratio.