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RacnJsn95

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  1. Wow, looks great! Can't wait to hear for it performs! I was making one for my Z when I still had it, but I sold the car. I still have it running around somewhere... Long ago TonyD gave me the idea to use the throttle bodies, and linkage off a Z32, just shorten the linkage down. If I ever find myself a 2 door 510 around here, I'll probably do that.
  2. That was my first thought for attempting to use the FWD setup... If a person wanted to get really creative, they could mount a trigger wheel for the EDIS where the distributor was, I bet that would clear the firewall... I've read the FWD SR to L trans adapter is $295
  3. Normally I wouldn't ask such a silly question, but aside from the VG30e, and Z22/24 engines, Nissan engines are almost non-existant in any junkyard around here that is close by... I was down there today, and I found a 93 Infinity G20, with an SR20DE. It's FWD. I know the distributor is in a different place on the FWD vs. RWD, but aside from that (and the transmission) is there any reason that I can't make this FWD SR20DE engine work in a RWD car? It seems I read something a while back about someone making a FWD SR engine to RWD L-series tranny adapter, anyone know about, or have any experience with that? The guy told me if I wanted the engine I could have it for $100 bucks, which seems like a steal if I can make it work! It's the only SR20, I've ever seen in a junkyard here... Hell, I've never even seen a KA24, or a KA24DE for that matter in the JY's here... What are you opinions? Any info would be much appreciated!
  4. It doesn't say it has overdrive on the auction descripetion anywhere does it? It just says a 5 speed.
  5. Here is a picture of the tranny in question... ... Looks like the tailshaft of the first one is connecting to the input shaft of the 2nd... The auction says 3rd gear on the first tranny is 1st gear on the second... HMMMM?
  6. Well the site said that I would have to have the ring gear drilled out to 11mm, because the LSD uses bigger bolts than the open rear... That wasn't true, I read that all subaru R160s after xx/1986 were 11mm fine thread, and so far that would seem to be true... The site that the LSD ring gear bolts were longer, but they were the EXACT same bolts that were in the open rear. The site didn't say I would have to grind some out of the open case to put the LSD carrier, but then again it doesn't cover swapping the carrier over, just swaping in a rearend, so can't point a finger there... All in all, everything was fine. I'm actually glad that I didn't have to have the ring gear holes drilled out bigger, saved me time and money.
  7. So I made the trip to Corvallis on Saturday to buy a 3.70 LSD R160. I picked it up for $180, and spent about $40 bucks for the trip. So today I ripped the 3.70 LSD, and the 4.11 open diffs apart. With a little elbow grease, and about 7 hours time, I now have what appears to be a working 4.11 LSD rear end for my 510. The backlash is set, and it's ready to go into the car. I'm real excited about it! I proved a lot of peoples notes wrong along the way, and had some make up some of my own crap to make it work... If anyones interested I can do a write up some time? (btw, the LSD is a clutch type, not a VLSD)
  8. It's already been done a few times now... Remember the Veggie car? That guy that was way into biodiesel? He took a complete LD28 diesel engine and the turbo & manifold off a ZXT, and put it all into a 240z. It supposedly got around 45 mpg, and would still do 120mph. The easiest route to get a diesel in your Z would be to find a complete diesel maxima, and just take everything you need off of it, and then when you're done put the Z engine in the maxima and sell it.
  9. I've seen a complete Z31 maf, and ecu swap bring quite a bit of money on ebay... Also be sure to keep an eye out for Subaru (AWD) LSD rear (85-90)differentials, they're pretty much a bolt in for Z's and 510s, but stay away from the 90 and newer cars, they have a viscous LSD, and the stub axles snap in so they won't accept the bolt in Z/510 stubs... I'm fairly certain you can still get a 90+ open diff upto a certain year, of which I'm not sure, because they still have bolt in stubs... Keep an eye out for low ratio open diffs... I just got a 4.11 open diff from an early 90s legacy wagon, and its still got the bolt in stubs.
  10. Man that sucks there is no drain plug... you should get a pan with one, or make your own... Well, now that you have to go all the way, when was the last time you changed the trans fluid? Might as well drop the pan, change the filter, and put new fluid in... If you don't rip the gasket, you don't have to replace it if you're just going to let some out... Exactly how overfull it is?
  11. Not sure if too much oil would cause a problem... If that's when the problems started I would start by draining some out to get it back to the proper level before messing with the TV cable...
  12. Here I found you a couple webpages that show how to adjust it... I'm not sure how accurate they are, I've never had to adjust it in my camaro... http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/tvcable.htm http://www.tciauto.com/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm < I think this would be the best one to follow since its from TCI Hope it helps.
  13. Sounds like the TV cable may be out of adjustment?
  14. Looks like you have the right idea... I'm great at TIGing aluminum, I can put 2 peices of stainless together, but I can never get the color... Does that mean I'm too hot or something?
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