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cruceno21

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Posts posted by cruceno21

  1. 3 minutes ago, madkaw said:

    Hey northerner ,

    I went from KYB’s to Koni’s . I went with Koni’s with my ST springs hoping I could soften the ride for around town and be able to adjust up for auto cross . The Koni’s seem to be as stiff as the KYBS - at their lowest setting. Now - that being said - it could be my ST springs . Also, your car is probably heavier and with progressive springs you might be able to have a greater adjustability in ride . 

    Hey man, I am back with my Z finally... got her back out and running for 2020, now trying to have more fun in 2021. Anyhow, can you still get the ST springs? None of the sites I have checked carry them, only non OEM ones I have found are the Eibachs. Not sure I am a lot heavier, plus I am planning to pull all the AC stuff before this summer so hopefully drop a few more pounds. 

     

  2. (hopefully posting in right spot now). Yes I searched, and most posts are ten plus years old and many products are no longer available. So I have two questions. 

     

    First quick background - I have a nearly completely stock L28 in my 75. She is a fun summer car, I do autocross her (not worried about being competitive) and like to hit an open track day a few times a year. She is currently on completely stock suspension (minus an MSA front sway bar I put in two years ago). I have owned her for just about ten years and have done no suspension work to her in that time... so she is due. 

     

    I am looking at the Eibach Progressive Pro Kit spring kit (link: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20b04/23-4042) and wondering on struts. 

     

    I only really see two options out there that don't require a ton of fab. The Koni Adjustable from MSA or you can find great deals on the KYB non adjustable shocks (https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-4-SHOCKS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-260Z-280Z-74-75-76-77-78-361002-361003-280Z/353183501677?epid=1529958043&hash=item523b608d6d:g:LlcAAOSwv8ZfR-a3). 

     

    Some suggest (include MSA description) is to not do the KYBs on performance springs. But to do the adjustable Konis instead (which are about $600 for the set versus $180 for the KYBs linked above). So not trying to be cheap, but that $400 difference can go toward the urethane kit (looking at this: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20h01/23-4100AZ) and other little things as part of the install. It already has new sway bar end links from when I did the sway bar.

     

    Thoughts? Should I suck it up and do the Konis? IF the KYBs just wear out fast, I can do three sets of those before I spend what I did on the Konis. What else should I do while I have it all apart? Not sure I have the tools needed to attempt the spindle pin replacement but that another area I think I rather spend money than Konis. 

     

    Thanks for any feedback. Thanks. Over the winter I am finishing my valve seal replacement and adjusted lash, just finished tuning my AFM, and next up is finally removing all the AC parts before I move to suspension next month. So doing my research here before I order parts and get it all apart. 

  3. Yes I searched, and most posts are ten plus years old and many products are no longer available. So I have two questions. 

     

    First quick background - I have a nearly completely stock L28 in my 75. She is a fun summer car, I do autocross her (not worried about being competitive) and like to hit an open track day a few times a year. She is currently on completely stock suspension (minus an MSA front sway bar I put in two years ago). I have owned her for just about ten years and have done no suspension work to her in that time... so she is due. 

     

    I am looking at the Eibach Progressive Pro Kit spring kit (link: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20b04/23-4042) and wondering on struts. 

     

    I only really see two options out there that don't require a ton of fab. The Koni Adjustable from MSA or you can find great deals on the KYB non adjustable shocks (https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-4-SHOCKS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-260Z-280Z-74-75-76-77-78-361002-361003-280Z/353183501677?epid=1529958043&hash=item523b608d6d:g:LlcAAOSwv8ZfR-a3). 

     

    Some suggest (include MSA description) is to not do the KYBs on performance springs. But to do the adjustable Konis instead (which are about $600 for the set versus $180 for the KYBs linked above). So not trying to be cheap, but that $400 difference can go toward the urethane kit (looking at this: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20h01/23-4100AZ) and other little things as part of the install. It already has new sway bar end links from when I did the sway bar.

     

    Thoughts? Should I suck it up and do the Konis? IF the KYBs just wear out fast, I can do three sets of those before I spend what I did on the Konis. What else should I do while I have it all apart? Not sure I have the tools needed to attempt the spindle pin replacement but that another area I think I rather spend money than Konis. 

     

    Thanks for any feedback. Thanks. Over the winter I am finishing my valve seal replacement and adjusted lash, just finished tuning my AFM, and next up is finally removing all the AC parts before I move to suspension next month. So doing my research here before I order parts and get it all apart. 

  4. I checked out the Dapper Lighting sight and for the price, and what looks like ease of install, these seem like a good option for the price: 

     

    https://www.dapperlighting.com/collections/1974-1978-datsun-260z-280z/products/7-classic-projector

     

    Trying to decide how much I want to spend on lighting... and feel like if I do these, then I need to do LED tails and then I get into a "Give a mouse a cookie" situation... then rather drop this type of cash on the disc brake conversation for my 280z. Hum... 

  5. Reviving an old thread... the headlights on my 75 just went out... so looking at just upgrading to LEDs while I am at it... thoughts on these? 

     

    https://www.headlightexperts.com/h6024-dual-beam-sealed-beam-led-headlight-conversion-kit

     

    Or even cheaper some of these... I do think the halo is pretty cool and have seen it on some Zs that look good. The ones linked above also do the halo and would love to see pictures of those if you have some. 

     

    https://www.ebay.com/i/163985244449?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=163985244449&targetid=4581046486499628&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=403204662&mkgroupid=1239149819509085&rlsatarget=pla-4581046486499628&abcId=9300377&merchantid=51291&msclkid=1788c271a9261a4ca5069d2f106c155a

     

    I am not sure if I would bypass the steering wheel switch which I am sure is my problem here so figured while I am in there wiring things I can upgrade. 

     

  6. I searched and didn't find much, but wondering on if/how people have updated their rear latch. Since the release mechanism is on the hatch, doing something remote (cable) is nearly impossible. So I am wondering if anyone has done a swap to a 280zx latch and wondering how hard that is, or if there is another easier swap. I couldn't find a kit to do it for sale, so I am looking to order some parts for my (75 280z) to try and do a custom cable release or maybe even a remote release for the hatch and delete the exterior key hole when I paint it. FYI - I have two hatches, one stock 240z one, and one Pantera hatch (with no key hold already, hence my desire to get this done).

     

    FYI... I was active on the boards here 10 years ago when I got her, she sat for a bit and the pandemic got me off my butt and working on her again. She is mostly stock, and I am doing small tweaks like this but not a full restomod on her. You can read about my car project here: http://meandmyz.blogspot.com/

     

  7. I have a spare set that I was going to refinish in the next couple weeks, and then put them on my car and I would have those available. What are you looking to spend? Do you also need the license plate light bracket? I actually might have an extra (3rd) one of those. I have planned to have a spare but car budget is dwindling so for the right amount I can let them go. 

  8. These have been chilling in my attic for years and I dusted them off... not sure anyone needs or wants them? They are from my 75, the front one is in pretty good shape, fairly rust free but has a dent on the passenger side. the rear is rusty under where the surround went. More of the surround places are in tactic but do have cracks. 

     

    I finally got my Z running and out of storage so going through my stock pile of parts, and/or things I don't need. All my extra interior plastic I can use, these will not be going back on my car. unfortunately I can't find the shocks and I might of recycled those already. 

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  9. I have a spare set from a 2+2. I thought they were the same, I will have to compare them to my 2 seater and see if they are the same. PM me a price for the pair and your zip so I can figure shipping on them. I would need until this weekend to pull my spare parts box down. I probably need to cruise the forum more and sell stuff. Thanks.

  10. Thats my problem finding an engine. I appreciate the help! Gas would be no problem and we got a guest room at my house. I have a good friend that lives in Plainfield that I visit once in a while. I got some stuff from a forum member in that area (and I sold some stuff to someone down there to).

     

    I will post when I figure out whats up. One of my friends is trying to talk me into just going electric.. ha.

  11. Shipping on that set up would run a few hundred bucks and then I have to figure out install... the wiring from 75 to 76 is different enough to give a shop trouble and I have no one with experience on these around here.

     

    I hate that my car is just sitting.... but I can't justify spending a few thousand to drop a used motor in it... and trying to learn or buy all the tools to do it myself is out of the question at this point. the V8 swap looks easier than getting a L6 back into her.

     

     

     

     

    Forgot to mention it has the 4 speed and a whole MagnaFlow exhaust that would be yours if you want.

  12. My project is a lame duck right now... I am debating going for an electric car conversion... or spending the money on the motor swap. I just have no local shops that want to work on my Datsun. Two shops I called have Datsons (one has a 510 and one a Z) that I guess owners brought in and now aren't paying on them or they can find parts to finish them. So they won't want to take on more potential problems I guess....

     

    Thanks for the continued suggestions... just wish something local was an option.

  13. all my mechanics (it has been to three shops) say that the head is bad. Two of the mechanics don't rebuild heads, so I took it to a third. When they messed with it he said he thinks the bottom end is bad as well and doesn't want to rebuild the head if the bottom is bad (he won't rebuild the bottom). So I am either looking for a shop that can rebuild my motor, or a shop to swap the engine. There is a local shop here that will swap the motor for a the same motor... so I was trying to get info on what could be easily swapped in or if I just ditch the L28.

  14. How reputable is this guy? I don't have a local shop that will rebuild one for me. Only a shop that will rebuild heads. I am wondering maybe a shop in Chicago or Indy? Both are pretty close (1.5 hours to Chicago and 3 to Indy).

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-N42-L28-Long-Block-Engine-Motor-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem256349d451QQitemZ160579572817QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

  15. For comparison

     

    I found a used L28 from a 77 online for $650 (need to get a shipping quote).

     

    There is a rebuilt L28 on eBay right now for $1800 (300 shipping).

     

    I have some local carb SBC I have seen for $400. Motor mount kits and what not look like about another 600, and then a trans for like 250 (didn't find many in my quick search). That is all local, no shipping.

     

    None of those include cost to install. The rebuilt L28 is the most expensive and I bet the labor on that or a rebuilt motor will be a wash. The V8 will have a lot of work involved but the parts are cheaper (and lots more option... like a 6 speed).

     

    I really don't care about power. I will autocross her for fun sometimes, but really just want a fun car to drive and I loved these since I was a little kid. So I guess whats under the hood doesn't matter to me.

  16. Quick background... I bought this 75 Datsun 280Z last year. Body was crazy solid, interior in good shape, electrical was good... but she burned oil. I bought her anyways knowing that heads aren't a million bucks to get rebuilt or buy one already done.

     

    My buddy that checked it out for me (I have very little mechanical experience) said it compression tested fine so should just be the head.

     

    Well I finally got around to getting the head rebuilt and took it to my shop. They had some problems with it and when checking her out said that they think it is the bottom end, and didn't want to touch it. He only would rebuild heads, and didn't want to do the job if it was more than the head.

     

    So he recommended another shop, and some of my SCCA guys also recommend for work on Datsuns... he had it for a week and messed around with it. He said he is pretty sure the bottom end needs work and has some stuck rings. He said the car is fouling up the plugs so fast it can't just be the head. He said compression dry was good, but wet was bad. It is currently only firing on 3 cylinders but runs. He doesn't want to, and said he doesn't have the time to try and rebuild the bottom end.

     

    Now I know you all are gonna say, save the money and do it myself... I don't have the tools or the time. So I am looking for options.

     

    They said they would swap the same motor or there is another shop in town that I am waiting on a quote to swap a V8 into the car.

     

    So my question is... do I find just a running car and swap the motor? I know some places sell used engines in the 500 dollar range (any recommendations for a reputable place?) and then rebuilt ones I have seen starting at like 1500-1800 and going up for performance add ons (suggestions for reputable rebuilder?).

     

    Or do I do... what I didn't want to do, but came to grips that I might do if the price is right and drop a V8 in there. I live in the midwest, grew up north of Detroit and know tons of guys and places that do work on those... not lots of guys here that work on Datsuns...

     

    Thoughts suggestions?

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