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HybridZ

NewZed

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Posts posted by NewZed

  1. This is the 280Z with the 3UZ swap?  You should put your car info in a sig or just mention it every time.

     

    Looks like the PO had some skills and made a different master cylinder work.  That stack of washers on the top bolt is a clue.

     

    Try to find out if the booster is correct for the car and look at 280Z master cylinders.

     

     

  2. Don't overlook the LSX engines.  Fairly lightweight and powerful.

     

    And transmissions.  That's the other spendy part about more power and different engines.

     

    And rear end.  Big torque and sticky tires and you'll want more back there.

  3. If you browse around you'll find that the "turbo" motor is really only different in that it uses the P90 head, which has no liners in the exhaust ports, a J pipe, and a turbo exhaust manifold.  People have bolted the turbo parts on to either of the other NA engines and made them work just fine using aftermarket engine management.  

     

    If you want to make 350+ HP you'll need aftermarket engine management.  So, all you really need are the J pipe and the exhaust manifold from a 280ZX.  There might even be aftermarket suppliers for those parts.  That's how I'd break it down.  Just see what you can find and started piecing things together.  If you find a whole car and the price is right, why not?   The rest depends on how deep you plan to go in to the engine.  Too many possibilities to make a recommendation.

     

    Here's a member who has some opinions.  But, if you're like most people who start a project your plans will change along the way.  you just need a jump off point.

     

     

  4. Hey Michael I feel like I should pseudo-apologize.  I am not a real moderator.  One of the real ones (RTz) gave me the "clandestine" title a few years ago because I like to get involved and help solve problems.  But, I don't have any real power, and your message won't reach me.

     

    But, your message should reach SuperDan and I think that he is safe with your email address.  

     

    p.s. my post "what is your email address?" was directed at SuperDan, since he didn't supply it.  At this point there is no way to communicate with anyone on the site except through posts on the main forums.  No messaging allowed.  The site is having some problems.

  5. 47 minutes ago, Aidan Eglin said:

    ive gone through the diagnostic process in the FSM but still no luck. Any suggestions? What has worked for anyone else who has experienced something like this in the past? I would really appreciate some help in the matter! 

     

    There are two levels of diagnostics.  One is just measuring simple continuity the other is taking resistance measurements.  The numbers are much better than the n.g. test.

     

    Anyway, one thing that could be causing your problem is a blown fuel pressure regulator.  You'll only see it if you remove the vacuum hose from the FPR.  Raw fuel can pass right through it in to the manifold, if it's blown.

  6. No offense, but some details on your own car would be more interesting.  I've only been on the forum since 2009 and I don't remember seeing any big block Z's since then.  The biggest motor I saw in a Z was BRAAP's father's Z with the Mopar 440, and that was just old pictures that he had saved.  I think that you might be the last of the big motors.  It's all LSX now.  Many of the people building fast cars on the site now probably don't really know what a "big block" Chevy is.

     

    Some of the guys that were active in the few years after I joined visit now and then but activity has faded pretty rapidly.  The site almost went extinct, SuperDan was considering shutting up shop. You'll probably have to message the names you remember if you want to get some interest back up.  It's slow here now.

  7. You could just put it up on jack stands, under the control arms, remove the shifter, start the engine, then move the levers by hand, and listen.  With no load the synchros shouldn't have a problem moving the wheels.  Or you could reach through the hole while using the clutch.  Or just put it in gear with the engine off and rotate it by hand, or start it.

     

    Lots of things you can do before dropping the transmission.

     

    Here's a picture, they even painted the levers red.  1-2, 3-4, and R pretty clear.  It might be something as simple as the bushings in the levers.  I probably got ahead of myself when I suggested it was internal.  Can't really tell when you heard the grinding.

     

    Check the bushings first.  Move the levers by hand and see what you can learn.  It's super simple.  They stick straight up in neutral and forward or backward will put it into t a gear.  I don't know if the Saginaw will let you put it in two gears at the same time or not so be careful of that.

     

    When you move the shift lever left or right what you're doing is choosing just one of the levers.  You can't get to the other lever unless you pass through neutral, so that keeps you out of two gears at the same time.  Notice that diagram also shows you which is 1-2 and 3-4.

     

    https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/saginaw-four-speeds

     

    image.png.bce43e8dc39640f3ff47d283991b822d.png

  8. You can disconnect the shifter and just move the levers to try the gears.  There's really not much to how the external shifters work.  Move one lever in to gear and the other one to neutral.  Neutral is the middle spot, of three positions, for the 1-2 and 3-4 levers and reverse is just two positions, in or not.  I pilled that from 40 year old brain files so it could be wrong.  But that's what I remember.  

     

    Looks like you are trying to set it with a screwdriver in the "adjustment" hole.  That's how I remember doing my old Hurst shifter.  It had a stripped thread so I had to reset it occasionally.  

     

    Your description sounds more like an internal issue than a shifter problem.

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