motomanmike
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Posts posted by motomanmike
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Have DIY make sure they have the BIP373 installed on the board for firing a coil. (IIRC the 3.57 MS2 doesn't come with this it is considered a "mod"). Also, if it were me, I'd have them mod the board for electronic boost control and install the going low circuit for flat shift so you can wire a clutch switch into MS. I bought a 3.57 originally, then gravitated to a 3.0 I built so I could have more "usable" features. If they mod the board, and tell you what pins they terminated those signal wires to you have everything else covered it seems.
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Are you still pondering using a stock ems?
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Ah just drive it Lee. You'll never feel you got what it was worth if you sold it. Whatever you do, don't buy an old Jag like you were hinting last time we chatted.
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DIYautotune also released a few new PNP ecu's for the 2JZ. If you have all of the toyota harness it should be fairly simple wiring if you went that route.
"MegaSquirtPNP Pro is here! Our latest release is based on the MS3-Pro and fits the '93-98 Toyota Supra Turbo. Other MegaSquirt PNP models include:"
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You may have to port the wastegate hole slightly, also some guys cut a small groove up to it as well. I've had this happen working with some miatas and the ever popular china turbo upgrades. Wire it open like others have said and see what it does.
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You'll get it, keep at it.
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Good luck. It might be a good investment for you to buy the registered version of tunerstudio so you can take advantage of the realtime VE tuning. It really helps you get things in the ballpark. No tune from someone else is going to make your car run perfect. MS is funny like that. I've got a few ecu's laying around. If I were to swap one in my car and flash the same tune its been running on for the past year, it wouldn't be right. It would be kind of close but wouldn't run like it does currently. Odd, its just how it is.
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Just first off, your KPA ranges on your map only go to 100 which is full throttle on an NA car. Anything over 100kpa is boost and your car doesn't have that area of the map to work with so be careful. Go into the FAQ's and find a map to copy the ranges from. Cygnus has some really good maps in the FAQ, his spark map works great. Also, MS doesn't auto adjust its fueling unless you program it to do so then it only will do it to the extent of your VE table and your AFR target table. If the GEGO correction doesn't have enough authority to pull it into what target AFR your AFR map is becasue the VE is that far off it can only supplement the fueling not get it exact. Tune the car with all auto enrichments off, then use them to fine tune areas of throttle lift or depression.
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I bet you've got plenty of practice replacing them with those tires you run on the back of that thing!
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This set I bought and it was already beaten to death with a hammer. Trying to salvage a spindle pin the puller is the way to go. One day i'll save a spindle pin for the Datsun world I promise.
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What an awesome find! Glad to see another rare car saved.
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I've always been leery of a press on anything after ruining a few half shafts. The press always wins but are necessary sometimes for certain things. A press to me is kind of like a boat. Its always best when its someone other than myself that owns it . I imagine a hand pump press would work but this is something most people can do fairly cheap and won't take up space in my teeny garage. It doesn't take a monster compressor to run an air hammer it just might take you a little longer letting it cycle if it has a small tank. Most small compressors with any kind of tank people typically would have in their garage would run an air hammer in short bursts. The air hammer itself is very inexpensive. One thing to check if you start and initially the pin does not move, look in the center where the locking pin was and make sure the locking pin didn't burr the spindle pin there in that hole. Sometime its best to run a die inside that hole where the locking pin was and clean it nice and smooth before attempting to dislodge the spindle pin itself. Good luck!!!
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I laughed pretty hard when I opened the box they were shipped in. I've seen a lot of people struggle with them and post about how to get them out so I figured i'd show it. Some are harder than others. I've had to cut them off flush before with the strut tube before hammering with the air hammer but they all still eventually came out without damaging the strut tube.
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Surely this method always renders the pin unusable however i've done 4 sets of strut tubes so far and each time this is how i've removed them. Some require a little cleaning of the bore before reassembly with new pins. I simply use a die or small tear of sandpaper on a slotted arbor and chase the inside of the hole to deburr it. Some cars had sat longer than others but this particular set was a stock pin on a 73 strut tube so its been in there awhile. In addition, notice the arm is missing. The person I got these tubes from got sick of fighting the spindle pin and cut the knuckles of the suspension arm clean off before shipping them to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXvHQGbcqlk&feature=youtu.be
Hope this will help someone out.
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How much do you have in this thing? Not trying to be rude and if you don't want to answer I totally understand.
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Found an interesting short nose diff mount on a car for sale on eBay. Someone on classiczcar started a thread about the car. Notice the custom mount for the nose, using the AZC control arm tube as the mounting point. Since the tube spins, the mount can't control fore and aft movement but it does support up and down. Stole a picture, the link is attached too. It could probably be made stronger by connecting both sides of the two mounts, making it one crossmember that hangs from the control arm "system" tubes.
Forgot to say, this concept should work for the stock control arms also. I don't know if those are AZC parts or the car designers. The designer is Kindig It Design. Never heard of them until now - http://www.kindigit.com/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professionally-restored-1972-Datsun-240-Z-Resto-Mod-/161386307368?afsrc=1
The pivot points for the rear arms are at a different spot with heims. The tube stays stationary. Really cool hanger. I like it.
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I set mine to incorporate AFR target. I wouldn't use alpha N, not sure why you wouldn't use speed density. I've experimented quite a bit with closed loop but have a decent grid setup with the open loop duty cycles that works well with my actuator. It was much easier to tune with alot less seat time. Use what works as far as boost control. The actuator really dictates it all. Any changes in your actuator physically and you tune your boost map from scratch so getting someones map probably won't help a whole lot. I would turn off ALL enrichments until you get your base map very solid. Then use your enrichments to fill in where you have trouble areas such as lift off or roll on of throttle.
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You will need a temperature sensor, unless you are using the stock one on the P90. You also need an IAT sensor. I never saw a mention of a wideband O2 either. There is a lot that goes into setting up MS when you haven't had any experience with it. Trust me I went through many frustrations with set up initially but now 2 years later my car still runs rock solid. I question why you mention a mass air sensor as you really don't need it, the MAP sensor in MS does fine.
What car do you have
What fuel pump/tank are you running
What boost solenoid are you using
Remember MS is for us trying to get something big for a reasonable price. Compared to any other ECU out there its the most cost effective way to get big bang for your buck with features. It just takes alot initially to understand it all. Read Read Read. You can do alot with an MS2 for an L series set up. Just takes a few "mods" and once you get used to the way MS is built/ works/ you will see the value. Its way too early in your adventure to get frustrated. Trust me, the worst has yet to come.
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Have you had an issue since the other weekend?
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Keep an eye on that rear hanger. What a great weekend once it dried up. Meeting Kevin and taking that ride through cypress was a blast!!
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That is kind of a tough spot. I'd really consider cutting it out of another car. once you got it cut, peel the outer sheet off and butt weld it in. I've had a few odd spots on mine, one being in the seat belt bolt in the rocker area. I pondered reinforcing it and drew various thoughts for seat restraints. I ended up sourcing it cut from another car to weld in. It was a much easier repair that way too!! There are alot of resources out there to post Datsun needs and many guys have scrapped cars this year that portion wasn't rusted in. I just walked out to my parts car and oddly enough its rotted in that area as well. My other 2 are not, that area looks great. 75 280z that sat 14 years. Good luck!! You are sooo close!!!
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Interesting that is confusing!! I went off what came out of it when I drained it. Searching here after draining most all the post i found stated they ran ATF
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Borg and Warner T5 that came in the turbo 81-83 280zx were supposed to have ATF ran in them not gear oil. He is noticing a difference is shift quality now that he's figured it out i suppose.
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I imagine MS using the NA distributor was getting a VR input, the 83 turbo distributor is an opto in typcially. Also, did you change the oil pump drive gear along with it when you switched distributors?
Another I'm about to buy MSII and need to make sure I'm getting the right stuff topic
in MegaSquirt
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I second buying the DIY trigger wheel for the stock CAS, the factory nissan one is no bueno