drzed

Are you still looking for these? I have a really nice pair for sale. PM me for details.

I think I have a spare in my garage. $50 + shipping sound OK? PM me if interested.

I know I'm not in the area but I've tuned a couple of SDS systems and am just finishing the install of an EM3 6F in my 260Z. If there is anything I can help with let me know.

I have some of these and am leaning this way for now. Mine are actually snow flakes and they are even heavier by about 2 pounds each but the offset is about right. The 235/60/R15 MT ET street radials I'm looking at recommend minimum 6.5" wide wheels but I guess 1/2" less might still work OK. Thanks for the info.

Unfortunately these won't work - the offset is wrong to get the tires I'm looking for. Looks like I'll need something with a small positive offset. Thanks anyway

The easiest way to get 14 x 7 rims and a drag tire is to use 14x7 Toyota Supra wheels with MT ET Drag 26/8.50 14's. I'm using them on my Late 260Z with rolled fender lips, no spacer, and the center of the mag machined a little larger to clear the end on the stub axel flange. Works well with lots of traction but I find the slicks a little loose running down the track (the car wanders from side to side). I don't think you will get anything taller and probably not anything too much wider. You actually listed 26/8.00 14's above and this might be a better size for the supra rims as mine are just touching the rolled fender lip with the top of the tread under the right conditions. Let me know if you have any other questions about this as I am going though the same issue right now trying to find a way to upsize to 15's and maybe go to MT ET Street radials to improve the handling at speed.

Might work. How much? Could I get a couple of pics? Can I get a backspace measurement? Any idea how much they weight? 2 or 4 available? Thanks

No one has anything they want to sell?

I'm looking for a set of drag race wheels for my 260Z. Must be 4 on 4 1/2" stud spacing and 15". Rears to be 7" or 8" wide and fronts 4" - 6" wide but will look at others. These are for a stock bodied late 260Z with rolled rear fender lips. Still using stock suspension but may convert to coil overs for more tire room if required. At this point I'm looking to run 26-8.50 15 MT drag slicks on the rear and front runners or sportsmans on the front but have not purchased them yet so may look at your available tires as well. Will look at any wheels but would prefer something lightweight. Thanks

I run 3.90 in the 260Z in my sig. below. It works perfect for the combo I was running but it is an auto and more drag than street. You might find that 1st gear with a stick would be pretty short. Also remember that the kind of power you will be putting down is a lot for an R180. If it was an open 2 pinion R180 I would say no way but if that is a 4 pinion setup it should work - at least for a while.

I've had two different sets of triple Webbers on several different cars. I never had the chokes set up on any of them - even the daily driver 240 I used to drive. I just pump the pedal to get a couple of accelerator pump shots and turn the key. If it is cold sometimes I have to feather the throttle a few times just for the first few seconds of run time. The only time it is a little hard to start is if it has been sitting for a few weeks and the float bowls are empty. Because I only run a mechanical fuel pump I have to let the starter turn over quite a few times to fill up the float bowls before I can pump the throttle to start.

I still run the mechanical pump with the triple webber 45's on my 240Z. No problems at all. Will run mid 13's at the track all day long. I did run an electric pump a long time ago but all the adjustments were the same. I think the regulator is set at 3.5 psi. All other carb adjustments are by the book.

Make sure you have a pilot bearing in the back of the crank. Most already do. The driveshaft is not the same length but it might work. I have used a 280zx turbo drive shaft in an earlier car (S30) but it is about 1/2" too long. In your case it should be 1/2" too short but may still work in a pinch as long as enough of the splines are engaged in the trans. You wouldn't want the to fall out on the road! Pole vaulting anyone? As mentioned above you still need flywheel, clutch, throw out bearing/holder/fork, clutch master/slave/line, pedal, shifter and probably lots of misc items I have forgotten. Good luck with the swap.

drzed--------1974 260Z--------3N71B---------Turbo----------11.15@120.8----08/03/07 Big hopes for next year with the new turbo - 60's turbo technology can only get you so far. Oh BTW 510SIX, even if your car doesn't count its still awesome!

Oh by the way I just thought I'd add that I used to run the same top end on the earlier 280Z dished piston block and the power difference was huge. Now the engine pulls way harder, starts making power earlier and traps way better at the track. I don't remember what the old trap speed was but the absolute best time was 13.999 - I remember that as all I wanted to do was break into the 13's and it seemed like all the car would do was 14.0's. Anyway as you can see at the bottom it will now run 13.44@101. My point is that a cam with 510/280 wants way more compression than the 9.0:1 that I had. With the 10.6:1 bottom end it idles better, runs better, starts better and pulls way better. BTW the new combo reads 190-195 on the compression guage.