RB-Z

Any pictures of the inside of the pan? Also, is the front part of the pan level or is a sloped to let the oil drain back into the sump?

Just about any shop out there will do that type of work... It just depends on how deep your pockets are. Akuma-Z, great pic.. that compound/sequential setup is an amazing work of engineering!

Boost Logic in Austin comes to mind. And Marc is fairly knowledgeable around Z cars as he has a 2JZ swapped Z31.

Yeah, using the FSM and a real and reputable wiring diagram, this will only take time and patience. Everything else is just connecting the dots... well... the wires. If I've learned one thing about swapping engines, they're all practically the same, you just need the right diagram to work off of. IMHO 85% of the swap is wiring everything together to make it work like OEM.

Those pans will also work on a RB30 block yes? If so... I may be inetersted.

Can't wait to see that! Would you guys offer a special full package swap kit for a discount for maybe the first 10 members that would want to buy the kit with the pan?

A dry sump setup? Of course it is better but it is also 3-4 times more expensive than a nice aftermarket pump. Its also over kill for 95% of the cars on here.

Done and done! Great setup... I would go with the JUN at that price. Sounds like you've got the setup figured out!

I would love to do this swap! Great build... very inspirational!

If you're interested I have 2 RB30 short blocks for sale. Both in great condition. Not to far from you either. PM me if you're interested.

Yeah, if you found a a good deal on the JUN, jump on it. It is the most important piece.. IMO.. of the RB26 puzzle. Other than getting the oil back to the pan... but that's a whole different problem in itself.

No, we were driving to the gas station and it dropped oil pressure completely. We though maybe something blocked the pickup, or something was in the filter. Nope.. pulled the pump apart and it went into self destruct mode. It basically just grenaded itself. Looked like it just fell apart. If you do end up using the N1 pump, get the JUN crank collar. Rev limiters are what kill the stock/N1 pumps. With the smaller stock crank collar it basically rattles and beats the pump out of the housing. I would think with the billet crank collar the N1 pump would last a bit longer.. but I still wouldn't trust it.

From what I've read, and experienced.. for anything more than a stock application... I would never use the N1 oil pump. I've heard of WAY to many failures to justify the cheap price for an "upgraded" oil pump. I've seen first hand 2 N1 oil pumps drop oil pressure and destroy a motor under 5000 miles of normal street driving. Under no circumstance would I ever trust an N1 oil pump for anything over 300whp.

It's a toss up between the Tomei and Jun... even the Greddy and HKS. However, I've never heard of a Tomei breaking.. ever... even at 9650rpm wich is what my old roommate spins his built 26 to. He's had that motor for 2 years now and is running 26psi on a 35R. Makes crazy power and runs like it is new.