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Kbhead

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Posts posted by Kbhead

  1. Hello,

     

    Replacing my stock fan with a Honda Civic fan one.  So far not working but  I have a red wire (shown in picture) that I can not find a location to plug back into.  It wasn't plugged into anything when I took it apart.   Could be the reason why my stock fan wasn't working in the first place along with the heater assembly lights.  The map light works as it is connect to different wiring harness.   Is this red wire used for power and if so where does it plug into, I can't seem to find it's partner unless it is a blue wire, if so which one?

     

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thank you,

    Heater Fan Electrical Wiring1b.jpg

  2. 3 hours ago, NewZed said:

     

    Isn't the "cooling fluid" thing just a myth.  Some strut manufacturers recommend against it.

    https://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/shock-tech-for-pros/installation-tips/strut-cartridge-installation/

     

    The same struts are often spec'ed for both 240Z and 280Z.  The difference is the length in the back.

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,suspension,strut,7584

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,suspension,strut,7584

     

    If a person considers the basics of what the gland nut does when a cartridge is used, things get simpler.  It just centers the cartridge and applies clamping force.  Shims and collars can be sued to make gland nut cavity smaller, or a lathe to make it bigger.  

     

    Just some thoughts.  It's just a shock absorber in a tube if you use the original strut tubes.

     

    Re: "Cooling fluid".  I was working from old information when installing my Koni's.  You bring up a good point, always refer to Manufactures recommendations.  

     

    Struts spec'ed.   Let me clarify,  my intent was just to point out that 280Z struts and 240Z struts have a different diameter size, et alone the difference in lenght.  OEM Shocks may have different diameter size than what you might get from a third party manufacture.   So, when sectioning your struts, note a shock for a 280Z might not work for a 240Z strut due to the different in the diameter size.

     

  3. 280Z struts are longer and wider than the 240Z  struts.  Which means you can use a 240Z (30 mm) shock in a 280Z strut (if you have shortened the struts) but you can not use a 280Z (36 mm) shock in a 240Z strut (diameter is too small and no room for outside cooling fluid in the strut.   Some people put 280Z struts on their 240Z, to take advantage of the size difference which give them more shocks options.   

    Advantage to the larger diameter shocks is; more fluids in the shock for pressure adjustments up and down and heat resistance. 

     

      

     

     

  4. 18 hours ago, boosted300 said:

    Sure thing brother I will try to do it sometime this week if possible.

     

    Regarding the group buy, I think it's important to remember my suspension setup.  This offset might be unique to an AZC suspension, or at least a suspension that is adjustable horizontally, ie adjustable all the way inward.  

     

    The other thing to consider is the lug pattern....Volks are awesome (I like the CE28's and also the TE37's)...however anything other than the two wheels you listed would require a conversion to 5 lug.

    Good point, I forgot about that.  Thinking more about this and reading the comments maybe the best idea would be to start another thread (do not want to take away from this thread) and get a  list of Wheel manufactures that make custom wheels (offsets, sizes and lug combinations).   Thanks to Nelsonian for listing a few:

     

    Boosted300, Great thread.  What size wheels and tires do you have on the front?  (sorry if you have already mentioned it, I can seem to find it when looking back).

     

         

  5. Hello Boosted300,

     

    Is it possible to take measurements backed by pictures of the inside if your rim the next time you take your wheels off, then post it.  Not that I don't trust the calculations, it's just seams easier and final.  I think the +17 mm is accurate.

     

    2nd, Does anyone have access to a vendor that would be interested in making wheels with this offset for a group buy, with a matching pair for the front?

     

    I would be very interested in a set 17" or 16".    First choice would be Volk Racing TE37VE , 2nd ROTA.

     

    thx

     

  6. Well I couldn't find a used harness that I was missing, found a wiring kit that someone posted in another discussion, see the link below:

     

    E40 J1 Harness Assembly for 2005-06 GTO ECM

    http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemId=848

     

     

    Not sure if anyone has used this "Stand-a-lone Fuse/Relay Module", looks like it might do the trick for your fuel pump, fan, starter and ac.

    http://www.currentperformance.com/Accessories/wiring_acc.html

  7. Hello,

     

    Looking for the Drive by Wire(DBW) connector and wiring for 05 GTO. I have the DBW throttle pedal, but I didn't get the connector and wiring harness for it. Have the engine and transmission harness.

     

    Please email, with how much your asking for it.

     

    Thanks,

  8. I am using the stock 73 240z tank as well but I have welded on a sump to my tank. Were I’m stuck right now is, where to connect the vent line? I was thinking of routing it to the filler outlet and removing the expansion tank, see first diagram. Second diagram shows were I would like to put the vent line, with the expansion tank removed. Will this allow the tank to breath and keep enough pressure in the tank?

    post-983-039641500 1297546146_thumb.jpg

    post-983-077714500 1297546155_thumb.jpg

  9. The shifter hole is the same for both auto and manual. I purchased the GTO LS2 and T56 transmission, to make it line up I needed the B&M Short shifter. The opening needed to square off the back of the hold and save about 1/4" on both sided in the middle. But do this when your installing the tranmission brace. I'm currently working on this part so I haven't gotten the boot worked out yet.

  10. I would suggest you get the car sand blasted before starting. This will help you determin how much of the panel that needs to be cut out and replaced. One of the keys elements to repairing rust is to cut it all out before replacing the panels. But I would seriously suggest taking an evening course on how to weld, practice there first. It is well worth it, and will help you understand what your trying to accomplish. It's not an impossible project, but it will take lots of time. Once done very rewarding. Then before you put it on the road, get it inspected!

     

    Good Luck!

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