CrayZ
-
Posts
331 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by CrayZ
-
-
-
Deerrpp...
Very nice! Where did you dig that up?
-
Nice numbers sunny! Just got my ecu back from the tuners last week. I'm hoping to make close to 415
Lq4 39lb blue tops, fast 92/bbk 92 TB, stock 317's, tsp 228r .590/.590 114lsa..
-
What will be the cost today to have a professional paint job, a complete modern A/C system, a rebuilt L28 engine,a rebuilt set of SU's, a healthy five speed tranny , a nice interior (to bad that it has a dash cap and not a replacement) ,a clean set of bumpers,a nice rust free Z, plus all the goodies seen in the Ebay post/pics. I will guess a figure close to that
Be that as it may I'd never pay 24k for it. I bough my car to chop it up not to restore it..
-
I appreciate the photo, That clears it up for me.
-
Nice car but no way in hell id pay 24k for that
-
1
-
-
Well I have a 280 so that won't help me out but if they have a 240 molding already that's half the battle. I'm looking or a good 280z dash to make a mold out of before I can get it started here.
-
After getting a better look at the transverse link and realizing how beat up it is and the amount of work needed to get this rear done right I decided to bite the bullet and just order the TTT drop mounts and dog bone. I haven't spared any expense so far so why start now right? It costs money to do things right.
-
In on both wheels
-
Mods can you please consolidate my threads. I was unaware of the rules. Seeing as the fabrication section has been getting more hits that seems appropriate, Thank you.
-
The setup is stronger then most folks think. Remember, the front of the a-arms are captured in the subframe/diff crossmember. You can get some pretty nasty wheel hop under acceleration so some reinforcement helps.for drag race style launches. I've pulled sustained 1.25Gs road racing and not had any issues. I did add bracing from the outer end of the transverse link brace as Jon mentioned above.
Duly noted, I think i will make a "dogbone" or traverse link of my own. The one i have now is quite mangled to make room for the finned diff cover. I wonder if this could have been causing my toe issues? please take in mind that i did NOT build this brace. I received the vehicle with this already installed. The brace is also holding up the front of the diff but i have made some custom mounts to replace the brace. My plan is to cut out and utilize the two halves that pinch the bushings together and weld in a new transverse link, what do you guys think? Also i must admit i cannot get a mental picture of the type of bracing you and Jmortensen are referring to. I searched for some of the other examples given and was not able to turn up anything. Im all ears, If you guys have a good idea to get this squared away lets hear it.
-
Double the threads double the fun?
I figured i could draw in two different crowds, It seems to be working
-
I cut a 4 triangles that "boxed?" the sides. Smallest angle nearest the arm. Tig welded on the sides.
Did it help? I don't know. It was an easy thing to do & it made me feel better. It did make getting the bolts into the frame
a bit more difficult. You could make an X that starts on the inside of the bolts, maybe a bit more strength and easier access
to the bolts.
You wouldn't happen to have taken pictures would you? I'd love to see other people's designs
-
Look here: http://www.arizonazcar.com/diffmount.html
Thanks, I've seen the options out there but just can't justify $300 + for something so basic in design. I'm not one for show so all the bling is unnecessary In my opinion. If there where a $150 basic steel option I would have purchased it already.
-
There have been many different attempts to improve this area of the car. Most involve braces from the bottom of the upright to the mustache bar or frame. I've never seen another car with so flimsy a setup, and I'm not so sure that I buy into the idea of building in weakness so that it bends there instead of somewhere else. Compliance there is going to result in toe out on the outside wheel under load.
I reinforced it a bit and made a toe adjuster for the back. bjhines did similar. Terry Oxandale made a large aluminum plate to mount the diff and then incorporated the toe adjust mechanism into his as well. Search and you'll find various solutions.
I also thought about tying into the mustache bar for added support. The idea of boxing in the drop mounts seems the most logical. I have installed TTT lower control arms so adjusting toe is covered. The reason I embarked on this journey in the first place was due to severe negative toe, hince why I purchased the LCA's. I don't feel comfortable going through all this work of squareing up the rear end and leaving a weak link in the system.
-
It's hard to imagine they would hold up but that's why I asked. I just got done installing the FAST/oil pump/new 46lb injectors/ valve covers/92mm TB AND LS2 maf.. Don't have a tune yet, still waiting on my exhuast peices and a tune. She's on blocks and has been for over a month. I'm getting anxious. Instill have to finish my stg 4 brake kit, fuel cell and 1" BMC.. She'll be a beast when I'm done. I'd like nitrous but I think I'm going to go turbo after I get bored of the 4- 420hp she should make.
-
Yeah I have the r200 vlsd short nose. It doesn't look to difficult to make something. I was just curious if anyone else has shared the same concern. For the life of me I can't understand how Datsun "nissan" thought those those drop down would do the job. They look like they would collapse under heavy acceleration. The previous owner built a cage to support the drop downs and front diff mount so it's been fine to date. I'm building a 3" dual exhuast system this weekend and the cage has to come out to make room for the pipes.
-
I'm redoing my rear end and came across the lower control drop mounts. I'm pretty disappointed in the stock drop mounts. They look like they would bend with a good breeze. I'm actually surpized that they hold up the factory LCA's and figure with a v8 convertion and plenty of abuse they would be destroyed. I've been looking at TTT and some other options but can't justify spending $300 plus for such a simple design.. Has anyone on here beefed up the stockers or made their own? Just looking for ideas
-
I'm redoing my rear end and came across the lower control drop mounts. I'm pretty disappointed in the stock drop mounts. They look like they would bend with a good breeze. I'm actually surpized that they hold up the factory LCA's and figure with a v8 convertion and plenty of abuse they would be destroyed. I've been looking at TTT and some other options but can't justify spending $300 plus for such a simple design.. Has anyone on here beefed up the stockers or made their own? Just looking for ideas
-
Thread resurrection!
I want to build something like this or similar. Its been 3 years since the last post has anyone got anythign constructive to add to the side pipe discussion?
-
-
The washers are used to position the wheel forward or back in the wheel well. They go between the spindle and the "jam nut assembly" for lack of the proper term.. (the spindle pins slides through them) check out ZT-R's build thread he has pics of his installed
-
If i could fit 315's and ZG flares i would be happy as hell
-
Looks amazing.. Im on the hunt for a 4 lug 17x11rear wheel that will give me some good lip yet still tuck that tire as far inside the fender well as possible.
What is a CF dash worth to you?
in Interior
Posted
It surprises me that so many "one off" carbon fiber dashes have been made.. Where is the mold? These guys could make some money.