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Found 277 results

  1. ~KnuckleDuster~

    New Exhaust

    From the album: 73 240z

  2. I figured it was about time to start my thread on my 240Z that I've been building for a few years.... To start the background on the Z; I found it on ZCar.com in central Florida however it did live half it's life in Texas. Pictures looked pretty decent for a 72 and mostly unmolested. It had recent paint, classic hubcaps and upgraded 280Z block; 5spd and R200 diff transplant. After reviewing the pics and video, I made up my mind to commit to this one. The 175/70-14 donuts were so bad; they almost looked like original tires but what the hell, she was going to be a track car- right? I contacted the owner and found a flight on Jet Blue to Orlando for $99. I flew down on Saturday morning and my old boss picked me up at the Orlando airport and we drove over to check it out. Everything was as expected, nothing to make me fly back to Charlotte today. I did cut some of the fuel line and re-tighten some of the clamps just in case. Paid the guy and drove off to Charlotte. Car ran great up to Columbia where I stopped to see family and take a break from the drive. The biggest problem was the exhaust leak but with both windows down, wasn't too bad ~ Hit the house about midnight that night but she ran great and no issues. I drove her for about a year before the planning stages began. My last 240Z I built was 12:1 high compression L28 that I built back in 93 with forged pistons, floating pins; cam and all the fixins... L28's are pretty good but have limits and are still iron blocks. Looking at other alternatives; I started looking at RB swaps. The biggest issue I found was going to get parts for them, but wasn't a huge issue considering our global transportation system and JDM suppliers on the west coast. You can get a RB engine and wiring harness pretty decent price but then you want to get bigger turbo (s) and all the fixins...Some say the RB26 has too much power and RB25 is better...both can put out gobs of power and take your paycheck just as easy as making that power. There's some good suppliers of RB swaps these days too like McKinney. Then I started looking at VQ swaps like A Hoke. I like the idea of staying in the family but it wasn't that important- Weight and power were the main requirements. There were some VQ swaps out there that look pretty good but then I started looking at the power and decided no VQ35. Hmmm, what about VQ37? still pretty new and prices were still pretty high for a VQ37 with tranny and harness. I started to think about the old american love of sticking a V8 in a small foreign car like Carol Shelby. Why not? The SCARAB was our answer to this question. But the early generation small block engines were heavy and not what I was looking for in a car to track. After seeing Dave Palarmo's LS1 240Z at the 2008 ZCON @ mid-ohio I thought that was a nice setup. Doing some research on it; the LS engine is a few pounds different than the L28. Buying a LS1/T-56 combo was easy to come by but many of them have oil issues (lack of owner responsibilities in changing the oil) and ragged out / tranny issues with hard shifting over 80K+ miles on most of the combo's. Started looking at the various LS engines and options. The F-Body SS Camaro's and Firechickens were around and running car would cost about 4-6K depending on the condition. Better the condition the better the care I thought...THen started looking at wrecked GTO's for LS2 engines with lower miles. About the same in price. I put the word out and found an LS6 at the right price. A fellow track junkie and known around the circles; I was pleased to find this beast with about 4800 miles on it and already had a hot cam installed. So off to the rodeo I went. I started to strip down the Z and for the past three years- due to three crazy kids, wife and job...I'm "almost done!" kind of...at this point I'm just ready to get her started and shake out a few things- mainly what is left to do: Run brake lines (MC to wheels all aorund) Finish fuel lines (today?!?) Dash decision - Aluminum or stock (going twords aluminum to just do it...) wire it up Radiator Exhaust Battery wires THE LIST [Drivetrain] LS6 Engine - Fuel Injected with cable throttle body. T-56 Magnum- Enough to hold 600 HP. - Stock will not work (for long) Q45 / CV shafts. Driveshaft shop Aluminum driveshaft DXD dual friction clutch Interior Roll bar Auto-Meter guages Start switch Battery relocation / lighter battery Exterior ZG flares BRE spoiler [Chassis] Bad Dog Racing full frame rails New floor pans Stripped and painted underpan Stripped and painted front clip [Fuel] Fuel cell - 16 gal Summit circle track Russell Fittings Bosch 44 fuel pump Speedway LS conversion regulator For now- stock fuel rail [suspension] TTT rear lower control arms Coilovers - Koni Shocks Quick steering couplers / bump steer spacers TTT T/C rods TTT Lower Control Arms [brakes] AZC Wilwood on all 4 corners (6/4). Heavy Duty Rotors SS Lines all around Wilwood 1" MC 280Z Booster Pics attached... Thanks to Matt Isbel and Mike Kelly for inspiration as well as the countless hours on HYBRIDZ allowing me to second guess everything and upgrade upgrade upgrade... This is my first real track car so I'm sure I've screwed up somewhere- feel free to tell me -much of this has been a great learning experience from restoring cars since I was a kid helping my Dad to what I've built to date. So far I'm really happy and wish I could be ready for ZDAYZ but looks like that's out this year- Hope to get her to CMP this summer... Right now, I'd like feedback on the fuel setup - how much fuel starvation will I have and do I need to sump it? Any concerns with my setup like heat soak or fuel starvation issues I can avoid? Thanks in advance for the feedback
  3. Richs72RBz


    Please delete.
  4. In need of a early (25 spline) rear outer stub axle, just one, don't need the companion flange. OR could be talked into a full set of 280Z stub axles and companion flanges. I'm in Columbus, OH, but willing to pay shipping. Thanks! Ben
  5. Looking for 240Z Strut mounting insulators (qty. 2) or 280Z fronts would work. email me: jminer84@gmail.com
  6. Hello All, I have a basically stock 1973 240z thats been lowered by the previous owner. Probably cut springs. I drive the car about 3-4 times a year so obviously it sits for long periods of time. I knew from a while back the brakes seemed to be dragging. Well I went to drive it yesterday and the rears are really dragging. The car will not roll even on a slight incline. If you jacked up the rear you cannot turn the wheel. The car will move forwards and back by the power of the engine in first gear but it will not roll. Let off the the power and it will not roll. I changed the master vac a while ago using a Cardone A1 reman unit. I recently verified that the reaction disc is in place. A new master cylinder was installed at the same time. So I need to know the proper steps to diagnosing this. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the master vac there is no change, the rear drums stay locked. The emergency brake is in the down (not engaged) position. I'm wondering if its the master cylinder but I have no idea how to test it on the car or off. The stock front brakes also seem to be dragging but nothing like the rears. Not even close. Still leads me to the master cylinder. In regards to adjustment of the rod from the master vac...not possible Maybe some are adjustable but mine would not budge a mm. Yes I can see it has threads behind the acorn shaped end piece but they appear to be simply decoration as that thing doesn't budge. I havent tried any PB Blaster on it though. If I open the rear hydraulic lines for each rear drum brake will that release the brakes? All brakes lines appear to be in working condition. I'm not sure if I had the emergency brake on when it was sitting for the last long period or not. Just want to drive this thing and now I can't. Thanks for all the help in advance.
  7. Hello HybridZ, I am in search of a Datsun 240z/260z/1975 280z in the Orange County, CA area. I prefer a rolling chassis, but a car with a motor is okay. I will be swapping in a Weber powered L28 race motor, so I would rather not spend money on a motor I will not use. I will be upgrading to an R200 differential so i wont need a diff or half shafts either. Rust is okay to a certain extent... Nothing too major. Missing interior is okay, as long as the dashboard with gauges are there. Id prefer not to spend more than $2000 for a roller, but I may be willing to spend more for a roller with zero rust and/or upgraded suspension components. I AM willing to purchase an out of state car, provided there are plenty of photos showing its condition and it isnt too far to drive and pick it up. Ill consider shipping a car here to SoCal. Thank you all for your time -Never2BeFinished I can also be reached by cell phone, (949) 322-72zero3. Texting preferred due to sporadic schedule, but I can always return calls later.
  8. I was trying to get rid of a flat spot on my tire, didn't really work too well but fun nonetheless. http://youtu.be/KtUypre2M8I
  9. I am looking for a 72-73 center console, Complete if possible. As good as shape as possible.
  10. Hey Guys, I'm a relatively new Z owner.. I bought a 1971 240Z at the end of summer, and I've been trying to get it into top running form. One of the previous owners put alot of work into it, but one thing that has been giving me a headache is trying to figure out what to do with the ignition system.. I've done alot of searches, and research, but the more I learn the more I don't know what to do. Basically I would like to upgrade from the old points system to electronic ignition, and just get the best possible setup. From what I've read It seems everyone has a different opinion on which way to go.. It currently has an Accel super coil, but after reading the specs online I'm a bit worried about the part where it says "Effective up to 6500rpm". My 240 has a .280 cam and has been balanced to handle high Rpms, and although I don't like to do it, it will go past 7500rpm.. But now that I'm thinking about it I'm not sure its really pulling as hard as it should past 6500. Maybe I'm just imagining that though. (I would go test it right now, but since I can't get it through emissions testing I can't put regular insurance on it, which means expensive permits.. That and I avoid the wet weather like the plague.) I would like the ignition to handle up to 8000rpm to take advantage of the cam, not that I plan on taking it that high very often.. Then theres theres upgrading to electronic ignition.. I'd like something easy to upgrade where I won't have to replace the Tach.. Pertronix sells a kit which sounds like an easy upgrade, but I'm not sure if it will work with my coil, which I don't know if I should keep... And it all needs to look original, or be from the 70's-80's period for my car to qualify for a local Vintage car race I'd like to take part in.. ahhh, that headache is coming on again Part of this upgrade is to try and get the car running as efficiently as possible to help with the emissions testing.. If I can squeze it through without having to get it specially tuned, and retuned, while spending the money on what I should be upgrading anyways I'll be very happy. I'm really at a loss to which way I should go here.. Any advice that you guys could give would really help.
  11. darbedare92


    From the album: After sandblasting

  12. darbedare92


    From the album: After sandblasting

    Some pictures after sandblasting the 240z
  13. I'm looking for a good condition R180 to replace my worn out , clunking one on my 240z. Anybody have a spare one?
  14. Soooooooooo I have always wondered what a 1970 dodge daytona wing would look like on my 280z. Obviously if I were to do it I would have to "shrink" it down. Anyone else think I should waste my money on trying this? If I do ill attach photos at a later date.
  15. I'm pretty new to this forum but I wanted to start a build log for my car so i can document my progress and hopefully get some tips along the way so i can truly get the most out of my car. A little backstory on the car and the swap is that there are few people in New Jersey who really know how to take care of these cars and tune the Su's properly and webers also proved to be quite rare and i wanted something a bit more reliable. My car had been breaking down going lean, going rich, backfiring, all sorts of engine problems that i just didnt want to deal with so i thought id upgrade to fuel injection...being 18 and having this as my only car i need something that i can get around in and wont die on me. So im starting with my 240, taking the l24 out along with the terrible wiring the previous owner did, and putting all new wiring in along with an l28e thats going to be spruced up a bit in the coming weeks, once everything is running and well, im going to ditch the ecu, put in megasquirt dial it in, then turbo the engine, i already have a turbo manifold, im working on getting a turbo dizzy, and oil pan. Today is day 1, the car is covered in snow, and the l28 just arrived itll probably be a few weeks before any work can be done because the swap will be done in my mechanics backyard My goal is to have the engine bay look clean maybe not a show stopped but something i can be proud of, horsepower goal is 275 at the wheels Thats what im hoping to get the car to look like any advice before i start? ( ive read the forums hundreds of times and will probably still read them a hundred more) - nzarano
  16. ~KnuckleDuster~


    From the album: 73 240z

  17. I came into possession of an actual NOS Nissan OEM 280Z hood. It had sat in a storage shed in Pueblo, Colorado since 1986 and is still in the battleship gray primer with the Nissan part code and sticker on the underside. It does not appear to have ever been placed on a car. I'm considering putting it on my orange 240Z. I would paint the vents a satin black to match the front and rear spoiler on the car. My car is undergoing a turbo motor swap. With respect to this 280Z hood, I'm not sure if the vents are actually functional as I've never owned a 280Z. My other option is to try and fix my 240Z hood which just isn't working out. It's a bit rusty, has been worked on, and I think even with 20 hours of metal work will not be 1/2 the hood this OEM one is. I'm concerned about originality, but since I already swapped the motor, transmission, and differential - I kinda think that ship has sailed. Does any one have a picture of a 240Z (orange) with the 280Z hood for comparison? Any opinions: looks, functionality, etc.?
  18. Hey all I'm at odds with what to decide on doing and need some suggestions (some advice wouldn't be bad either.) Well here's my dilemma; I have a bmw M50B25 out of a 1992 325is complete with everything except the flywheel and clutch in my garage and I wanna know what you guys think of swapping it into a Z would be like or should i just stick to swapping init the L26 with the round top SU's I got with the car? If i were to swap in the M50b25 i would want to run boost on it because stock they can handle a conservative setup of 8-12psi, but the real dilemma is that I'm kinda unsure of the swap because It's never been done before and I don't really want to open up a pandora's box of problems. People have told me that the engine is relatively simple but that's not always the case. Anyways I'd gladly appreciate any input you guys have as to this swap. Oh and the engine itself is a stand alone system so wiring shouldn't be too much of a hassle.
  19. Hey guys! This is my first post on the fourm, but i have been looking through posts for about 2 months now. I am a 16 year old high school student who LOVES the datsun Z cars. It has been an intrest, basically an obsession, to build one of my own. So i guess i just have a bunch of questions that i would love to have answered. Thanks! Alighty guys, so i have very little knowledge in mechanics but i have tons of family friends who just so happen to own their own shops so i dont think actually doing mechanical things would be a huge problem. So basically what i want to do is build a 240, 260, or 280Z. I currently drive a 2007 nissan maxima and i love it but i really want a manual transmission and i love the way the Zs look. so here are my questions and inquiries. should i go with an already partially restored or restored z and just fork out the extra cash? or go with one i can restore myself. should i stay with the stock engine or swap to a 350z, i forget the numbers and letters, motor or even a L28et? of corse i want to go fast hahaha i dont want a track moster or a show car. i want something nice looking and fast(16 year old fast) that wont berak the bank in upgrading parts what will i need? i guess my thing is i want to know what is the best platform for building a Z and i want to know virtually everything to build my Z thanks guys, i know my questions are very vague but it's hard to describe exactly what i want on here thanks again guys!
  20. So, first time poster and first time builder. I have dragged cars out of fields and rebuilt them and built motorcycles from a pile parts from some guys lost ambition. I say that to indicate the scope of the project I can tackle if so motivated. I have had a sports car in my life since my 20s and that was my only z. Two years ago I gave up my z4 to the ex and now it's time to get a sports car again. I have pretty much narrowed it down to a 240z. As I want to put my own mark on the project and not do a factory perfect restoration, it would seem a shame to harm one of the few 70s out there. I have $10k to blow on this endeavor and want to open the doors to some input. I keep my eyes out for project cars where people have lost interest and have missed out on a couple. While I would love to do an rb25 swap, I don't think its in the budget to do it right. So that's the question, $10k setup, most work could be done in house although any major overhauls would probably be shopped out, the paint would not be a DIY, what are your all thoughts?
  21. I had a chance to photograph Kevin Yeung’s extremely clean and well-executed 240z. I was an extremely excited to do this feature because I am working on a 240z of my own. Don't forget to checkout my facebook page www.facebook.com/rodneytyphotography On to the pictures: Kevin's 240z by rodknee_ty2003, on Flickr Kevin's 240z by rodknee_ty2003, on Flickr Kevin's 240z by rodknee_ty2003, on Flickr Kevin's 240z by rodknee_ty2003, on Flickr Kevin's 240z by rodknee_ty2003, on Flickr Kevin's 240z by rodknee_ty2003, on Flickr Kevin's 240z by rodknee_ty2003, on Flickr Full Feature: http://www.canibeat.com/2013/08/a-devil-in-the-streets-kevin-yeungs-mean-datsun-z/
  22. Good Day Guys, so after thinking a lot, about and seen someone telling me RTFM, I might do so and start by making the car go on, to see if the engine goes on... any way, the engine did for some info this engine was swap once before by the old owner to a l28. here are some pics of the starting status of the car. will update as it goes
  23. I'm in the market for a 5 speed transmission from a 77-78 280z for my 240z. I am in the Sacramento Area but I'd be willing to travel a bit for the Transmission.
  24. Klmykvl


    I am currently in the market to start sourcing parts for a turbo swap into my S30. I am interested in anything you may have to get me to my goal, which is as of right now, to run a stock l28et in my 240z. The more complete of a swap the better for me. Let me know what you've got
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