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Found 338 results

  1. Hello all from Australia, Long time browser, first time poster here because I finally can't find the information I'm looking for! First off, my name's Adam and I have a 1973 240z which is currently running a standard L28, N42 head/block combo, with brand new triple 45mm OER carburetors, and Trust headers to a twin 2" exhaust system. I have just installed a new set of OER carbs I purchased from Japan and am having difficulties sorting out the idle/low speed cruise setting. Bit of details into the setup, 45mm carbs 34mm venturis #190 air correctors (not yet tested to see if these are the best) #130 mains #60 idles #40 pump nozzle #1.8 needle valve 3.5psi fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump into Holley regulator 31mm fuel level using the OER level gauge. Idle screws are setup so that the first progression hole is just 100% covered looking through the brass cap/inspection hole. Carbs are balanced the best I can using a unisyn. I have a wide-band O2 sensor probe in the tail pipe. I am running 98 octane fuel. Timing is at 15 BTDC with no vacuum advance connected. Valve clearances have recently been adjusted. Now, onto the problem I am having.. Driving with the #60 idles installed, 1 full turn of the mixture screw turned out, slow acceleration and cruise is very rich, 10.5 and 11.5 AFRs respectively. I also have #50 idles on hand which I have installed to try and improve the current rich scenario and I cannot even get them to idle. With mixture screws out 1.5 full turns (recommended range is only 3/4 to 1 full turn), they cannot idle on their own, only when I blimp the throttle which I believe is activating the pump jets. With the #50s installed, AFRs are off the scale in the lean area. They can't idle let alone drive. My question is, is going down from a #60 to a #50 idle jet that big of a jump that the car can no longer idle on its own? Or is there something wrong with my idle screw setup? I would have thought that with the #50s installed, it would at least idle and drive albeit a tad lean.. OER offer a #55, but I would like to double check with the experts out there first before spending that money. Any help would be appreciated. And please let me know if I am missing some information, I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Adam
  2. Hi everyone, I have a 72’ 240z that I bought 4 months ago, and have put on the road since early February and recently I’ve encountered a problem. Problem: Backfiring out of carbs under load in the med/high rpm range. Issue is absent with the choke on. Points, condenser, cap and leads replaced. Issue has got progressively worse after ~500 miles of driving since buying the car. N58 needles used with a slight ridge formed due to wear. Once the problem became severe the oil was found to be at the minimum level. Suspect valve clearances or needles to be potential cause, but it's probably a carburettor related issue. The car is a US import being driven in the UK I would appreciate any help possible, I'm desperate to get it back on the road Thanks a lot! Moe
  3. From the album: adioz240's '72 240Z

    January 2015 I had picked up my dream car that I will build and enjoy until the day I die.
  4. Did a quick search and did not find anything concrete. Have sourced Recaro Evo 8 seats. Has anyone installed these into their car? If so, any insight into fitment issues and bracket work. I know that the 240 can present a narrow space for an aftermarket seat. Any info is appreciated. Cheers, Ian
  5. Hi Everyone, Does anyone make a carbon fiber gnose and airdam or any pics. of a full carbon gnose? I did a search, but nothing much came up. I have a gnose and airdam that just needs clean up. If there's nothing out there, I will attempt to make my own. thanks, Hoover
  6. Hi Guys, my manufacture now has chromoly stub axles for the 79-83 Datsun 280ZX. They are an upgrade to your stock 25 spline stubs. Price should be the same as my chromoly stub axles for the S30 cars. I'll update this soon. I will be offering free shipping within the US starting today. All parts are made in the USA with USA material and sold by Modern_Motorsports located in California. So remember to keep the money in the USA Feel free to contact me at 818 350 6222 remember I'm in California Pacific time. Thanks Joe
  7. New poster so stay with me Looking for a 240z any year. Not looking for a perfect Z, just one with as little rust as I can get away with. Preferably without an engine/trans. Looking to spend around $4000 but it is flexible depending on car and or engine situation. Always open to offers and don't mind driving a ways to pick it up. Located in Los Angeles. Thank you, Mike Email: Schladenz@outlook.com
  8. So now that I am pretty sure I know how to use the website, I will give this one last attempt. Sorry for the spam I may have caused by trying to post a new topic from my phone. I now will only be using my computer to post lol. I just picked up my Rb25det series 2 for my 240z build. I want to upgrade the turbo and I want a top mount set up. My goal is around 350-400 whp. I want to use the garrett gt3076r turbo, but am open to other suggestions. My main issue is trying to find a decent turbo manifold to use. I DO NOT want to use an ebay manifold like the Cxracing manifold because I have heard bad reviews. (I would like good reviews if people have had experience using them however) I know that the strut tower causes some issues as well. Any suggestions for working around that? I would ideally like to spend around $1000 for a decent top mount manifold. Is going with a custom one the best route? or can anyone explain to me what setup you are using? I have tried searching, but can't seem to find exactly what I am looking for. Thanks in advance!!
  9. The wind howls like wolves outside my door, and the cold tonight soaks into my bones as it has so many nights before. But tonight, here I stand gazing upon her lifeless body. She's waited years for me to find her. I admire the beauty that's still quite apparent after so many years of neglect having been laid to rest in a field decades earlier. They had tried to save her, worked hard to preserve her heart and smoothed her skin as she laid motionless. They then they left her, seldom to visit. We'd pulled her from that dusty grave in that field, dragging her body miles in the dead of the night to my workshop. It's difficult to understand why someone would let her rot, though there is a point when you recognize that she's beyond their ability to try any harder and the pain of knowing you cannot see her live is greater than your need to see her beauty. That is not me, I still see her beauty and I know she will move again, she will breathe and life will return; I will restore her youth. Be it brute strength, chemical, or lightning, She will live, I must only find the method... So here's the deal, I dragged a 70' 240Z from a field some time back where she was a project that won the fight, and her owner could not handle the restoration. He had last worked on her 15 years before. Her last date of registration reads 1983, so it's been more that 30 years since she's run. In his restoration, he'd completely rebuilt the engine, and dropped it back in place along with the 4 speed. so it's all stock, but I don't think the engine was ever started as the fuel lines have been still disconnected. They then sanded the body down from it's blue to it's copper to it's original silver, then primered 90% of the outside in grey primer. They took all the lights and trim off and put it in boxes inside, only the headlights, and tail lights remain installed. That's where they either ran out of time, or ran out of money. I looked and it's got clear amber oil, though I would never run that, I did turn the engine with a wrench to make sure it wasn't locked up. She turned nicely, so mechanically I believe the engine is in good shape... This is where the "method" comes in. When you have an Engine that has sat for YEARS (at least 15 as I could tell), What is the SAFEST method for attempting to start it. Of course I can get fuel and spark together, and I will change the oil, but I want to know what is recommended to do prior to trying to breathe life into her again. If I have to rebuild, I will, but as I said it looks great, just dusty. In NM it's dry, 15% humidity at the MOST. so I'm not really worried about a lot of rust internally in the engine mainly I'm worried about old oil varnish or gummed up oil passageways. I can crank her over I'm sure, at least enough to get compression numbers, BUT I've heard horror stories of people trying to start old engines and blowing rods or locking up cylinders so I'm asking for advice on doing it right Though the primer had mostly worn away on her body, and I am going to just replace the hood and left fender due to a pair of dents where it looks like something fell. I'll have to re-sand and pull a lot of the rust out of the metal along with some other bodywork, I'm not too scared of. Mostly I'd like to avoid doing something stupid and messing up the engine if indeed it was rebuilt.
  10. This is what you can do by using the "search" button.
  11. Hello! New to the forum. It's always been on my bucket list to own a 240z, so i'm hoping someone out there has one for sale? *update WTB a 280z I am looking for one that has not been gutted out. No drag cars or chevy swaps please. Ultimately, I'm looking to restore one and possibly do a 26RBDETT or a SR20DET swap down the road. I'll be in GA until March 2015, after that I'm moving to the DC Metro area. Thanks! Charles
  12. Getting the Z out of paint this week. Need to get rid of the stock J-pipe. Have become somewhat familiar with the various options for intercooler setup. I do not plan to run a ton of boost but also, refuse to have the j-pipe. Looking for full intercooler setup with piping, BOV, etc., if possible. Located in the North NJ area.
  13. WTB 240z Tail Light Assembly If anyone is selling this assembly, please let me know! Also if anyone is parting out a 240z, let me know if I can cut out the tail light frame area. Just bought a 71 240z and the first owner did a tail light mod (cut out the tail light frame). Thanks
  14. Gents: First, my apologies for another tire/wheel fitment thread. That said, I need some assistance. Have a '72 240z on Eibach Springs. I do not believe the shocks are stock but am not certain. Regardless the car rides about 1-1.5" lower than stock. I have searched and searched for some consensus on whether a 225/50 tire will fit with THIS set up. Some threads make me think yes, others no. I am looking for any suggestions or advice (pictures are a plus). I plan to roll the fender lip. To my mind, there is no question the tire will stick out of the fender a touch. The question is then whether the suspension travel will let the back end get low enough to hit the tire. Then again, I could be wrong. HELP!! Thanks in advance, Ian
  15. Hey guys I was wondering what your recommendation would be for welding in a bung for a wideband on a stock 240z exhuast (71 series 1 if it makes a difference). I recently rebuilt and installed a set of Mikuni triples so to help with tuning I'm in need of a wideband which is something I've never used before. I've been researching on the net about placement and I can't seem to find a definitive answer I know it's recommended that the sensor be placed at least 18 inches from the head so I don't overheat my sensor but considering I'm still running the stock manifold and dual down piping do you think if I welded the bung into one of the dual down pipes that it would give me an inaccurate reading even though the down piping is collected at both sides. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  16. Hey all, I hope you're all doing well and having a good xmas and having lots of festive frolics! Had a quiet time at work today and was looking through the Rocky Auto website to search for their VQ35 conversion. I did manage to find it but looking at the install closely, they have cut a hole out of the bulkhead. They've also cut a the plenum and welded on a new one that reaches around into the bulkhead and into the cowl area of the car. Just thinking about how this is more an advantage and how they would be pushing air to the area for the engine to breath?!?! Thoughts on a posting please or if you know the correct answer already... http://rockyauto.co.jp/stockcar/profile.cgi?_v=1411638663&tpl=car
  17. dreco

    Le Mans Blue Z pic2

    From the album: ls swap

    at cars and coffee dallas
  18. dreco

    Lemans Blue Z pic 1

    From the album: ls swap

    at cars and coffee dallas
  19. Hey everyone, I own a 1971 240z with a vg30e motor swap that was done by a previous owner. I'm looking for more power and have read up quite a bit on the nA to turbo conversions. I have found a 1985 300zx turbo donor car and I'd like to do the conversion. I'm no mechanic so i do need help. Does anyone have any shop or mechanic recommendations for this type of work?
  20. This is one of the cleanest Z's I've ever seen. Does anyone know where I can find this airdam? The article i read on this car says its a 280z with a carbon fiber BRE front airdam but I've looked on the net and can't find anything that looks like it. If i do find it will it fit on a 240z? Thanks in advance!
  21. I'm looking for a rust free and overall clean s30 hood in the Houston Area. I have no preference concerning which style either. Just let me know what you have. Feel free to send me a PM or leave a response here with the details. Best Regards Anthony
  22. Hi Guys, I'm going to be in LA from 4th December 2014 to the 8th December 2014. I am willing to travel upto 400 miles from LA. I am interested in modified z's and un modified z's. I preffer the zg arches with wide wheels look but anything considered. I am looking for rust free examples complete or incomplete. I would preffer turbo converted cars but a well sorted N/A is also an option. The cars (I'm looking at buying two maybe three) will be shipped back to the UK. The cars will be collected by the shipping company in my presence, Cash or wire transfer will be the method of payment My private email is jmcl.testing@gmail.com I will require a fair bit of information about each car and will need to see deatiled photos. Cheers guys and I hope to here from you soon. Adam
  23. Ok, my dad and I are about to put together my motor for my 73 240z and we have no clue how much power this motor will make. The head is rebuilt to stock its a 1973 E88 head. We have the Z Car Source master rebuild kit with .040 over flat top pistons, the pistons dont work with the head so we are having valve reliefs cut...we found this issue once we had the pistons and most internal in, check the clearance with #1 at TDC and the valves are coming in contact with the piston. Mods are; over bore(.040), header and AZC 4 barrel manifold/Holley 390. Any guess on horsepower at the crank would be greatly apreciated, I am geussing around 175hp at the crank. Thanks for any help.
  24. This SCCA-ITS prepared 1970 240Z has been sitting in a climate-controlled basement for several years. I stumbled across it through a friend of a friend. The previous owner raced it in the SCCA, ITS class in the late 90’s - 2000’s. He put a bunch of money and time into a new motor, prepared the car, ran one event and parked it. Life got in the way. I bought it with the intention of racing it but my wife has other ideas… Even though the car has been sitting for a while it was very easy to start. I put fresh gas in the tank, cleaned the float-bowls, put a battery in it, and turned it on. The fuel pump primed the system, I pushed the button and vroom! The previous owner is a pilot so the car was only ever run on aviation fuel, I think that’s why it was so easy to start. The aviation fuel is very clean and leaves little residue so the lines, carbs and tank are clean. I don’t know as many details as I should about the motor specs but what I do know is it purrs like a kitten. Everything that has been done to modify the motor was done to the very limits of the ITS class but it was legal at the time when he parked it. I have the old SCCA logbooks. When the car was built, it was taken down to the shell and acid dipped. They put a cage in it, primed and painted inside, outside and under. There are some minor repairs and welds done at the time the race car was built. Everything is straight and flat under the car. All of the hoses and fittings are -10 and -6 “Aeroquip” brand AN fittings. Obviously there are some bumps and bruises on the car because it is after all a racecar. - 1970 240Z vin # HLS30-02347 - Roll cage with NASCAR bar on the driver’s side - Aluminum seat - Detachable steering wheel - 3 welded differentials each with a different gear ratio (336,???,???) - Spare 4 speed trans - Battery kill switch - Rebuilt SU round tops - 3 into 2 coated header - Aircraft style oil cooler, adapter, and remote filter, -10 Aeroquip fittings and lines - Wide body oil pan - Fuel Cell, Holley “Red” fuel pump and regulator, Fram HPG-1 remote filter, -6 Aeroquip - Brake ducts to calipers and rotors - Ballast box with lead ballast installed. - Spare half shafts and drive shaft, bearings, u-joints, fasteners, etc. - Lots of extra parts and pieces; electrical, gaskets, mounts, brakes, engine parts, transmission parts… - Spare good motor that was run before they built the one in it, very clean, fully assembled ready to go - 2 sets of “Panasport” 14” wheels - E46 intake - E88 intake - Pit crew headset, and driver’s helmet mounted earpiece with quick connect fittings, Motorola brand I’m asking $6,000 as is, no delivery. The car runs and drives great and is a good car for someone who is getting into SCCA racing or just doing HPDE’s. I own a 1975 280Z and it is a blast! on the track. You can text, email or call me with questions and I will answer them to the best of my knowledge. See the link below for lots of pics, I also attached a video of it. http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/roscosremodeling/library/
  25. I have owned this 240Z for about 14 years. Before I bought it it used to run 8.50s in the 1/4 with a big motor. It can handle anything you can put in it. There is an article in a 1997 Hot Rod magazine about the car when it was running 8s. Currently it runs 9.60s with a 350 small block Chevy on 125 shot of N2O. That is as fast as I wanted to go and wanted it to be street legal. I have not races it for the past 6 years and have just taken it to car shows close by. It would take more than $60K to build this car so you can save a lot of money and time by getting this turn key street monster for less than half of that. This is what I do recall from the time I used to race it: Full 2x3 frame and cage from the front to the back. 355 SBC. 750 DP Holley. Iron heads with a lot of work done to them. 12.5:1 Nitrous pistons. Solid cam. Very dependable motor with low runs. 350 Turbo trans with the best stuff built by Steve Casner. Manual Valve body. 9" Ford rear with 31 spline spool held in by ladder bars. Hooks hard. I don't have a whole lot information more than what I posted above. If I find more information, I will post. Serious buyers only. Prefer local buyers. Buyer should come here to take the car as I will not get involved in shipping. Sorry no trades as I already bought the new toy a while ago. I just need to open up some room in the garage. Price: $27,700 Price As of 5/24/2014: $25,700 Price As of 6/10/2014: $23,700/best offer Contact me if you are serious about buying. Sorry I don't have a lot of time to chat about cars. WildZracing@yahoo.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1cfy3MWp6U
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