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Showing results for tags '240z'.
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Hi, I recently picked up some Chastain Shadow louvers for my 280z but they don't have the lower mounting plates that the captive screws go onto and tighten down on. These louvers are the kind that go underneath the weatherstripping and lift up. Thanks in advance, Brandon
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hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall
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Putting together a new 240z project with 280zx turbo swap. Car needs lots of work. Putting my plan together now and know that I need the entire AC assembly, heater core, blower assembly, and vent and control set up. I was positive that I found a post last week selling all of these parts but having now searched for the past two nights without finding it I'm increasingly convinced that it was a dream.
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I am looking to do my first zed build and am trying to put together a soft budget before I get too deep (1972 240z). I have budgeted out most of the guts, but am having trouble finding the particulars on the body I am looking for. I love the look of the two body's below but can't seem to find the correct air dam or flares? I believe another post had the air dam as an IMSA 3 piece but do they fit with the flares I want? Also, I am new to body work and do not know how wide these flares are. My questions are... What type of air dam are these? What type and size are the fender flares? Will the air dam fit properly with the fender flares as shown in the picture? Sorry if these questions seem simple, I just don't want to spend money where it isn't needed and get the right parts the first time around. Thank you!
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From the album: ls swap
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From the album: ls swap
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From the album: ls swap
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I am looking into purchasing a set of 16x8 Enkei Compe wheels for my 73 240z. If you have them on a S30 please post pictures of your car! The picture below is not my car but this is the only picture that I can find.
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Hello, I'm Agita. I just bought a 240z that is in decently bad shape. It's rusted pretty bad in places and the driver's side panels will need to be replaced. The hood is damaged where some idiot used a crowbar to open it..... not kidding.....what a jerk. Most all of the interior plastic panels are in really good shape, one or two have small cracks that I'm not entirely worried about. One has two holes cut out for speakers..... sadly. I bought a whole driver's door in good condition minus a rust spot the size and shape of a quarter. Much better than the giant dent in mine. I also picked up a cowl that was without damage to replace the damaged one where the idiot with the crowbar used it as a brace to pop the hood. It's a 1970 240z. HLS30-02603 made in March of 1970 I've lurked here for a long while but now I'm gonna jump in. Lots of pics. Please feel free to comment or point anything out. I'm learning and researching as much as I can but I'm far from knowledgeable. I have lots of pictures and am willing to take a pic of anything you would like to see in specific. OK, I don't really know where to start, but the first thing would be the driver's floorboard. I've read about it a lot, and payed close attention to tutorials and all forms of processes listed here and elsewhere. ( feel free to link suggestions, I love reading about it ) I'm reasonably certain that I can replace the floorboards without problem, but I'm concerned about where the seatbelt bolts in near the door. The entire panel twisted out when I went to take the seatbelt off. (see the pic below) Is it okay to just weld in a strong panel then make a place for the seatbelt? Lots more, but lets start there and see what you guys think.
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From the album: 73 240z
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New poster here... Just installed a new motor in the 71 240: F54/N47, comp cams 280s cam, 3x 40dcoe, headers, exedy regular clutch, flywheel from my l24, new timing kit, carter p4070, Holley 12-804 reg, mallory dist from l24. Also replaced 4 speed with 5 speed close-ratio. Using fork and collar from 240 trans because whatever collar came with 280 was too long and slave cylinder couldn't be mounted. The car makes a very odd sonar, red alert sound. It happens with the clutch pedal out and minor revs. Doesn't seem to increase with engine speed. Sounds like it's coming from the bell housing area... Strange. Also, I had to cut the tunnel/console to fit the shifter. Not needed with close-ratio?? Not so fast! I think the trans has an older bell housing on it. Serial 7y1594(1?). Oy. Gears 2 and 3 are mighty close, it must be the right tranny. New redline mt90 in the trans, too. Next problem: Carter pump mounted by tank, constant 12v. No need for regulator? Yeah right. Carbs poured gas out right away! Installed low pressure Holley 12-804 after filter in engine bay. Fuel pressure okay on initial startup, I checked it after a min and it was creeping up past 7psi. Adjust reg, no difference. Not running a return. Fuel is fed to carbs via 5/16" line. I thought these pumps had a bypass that would send gas back to the tank? I'll upload a short video of the sound ASAP.
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Hi, I'm fairly new to this forum and the world of Z's, but I'm hoping for some advice on what to attempt next. I picked up a '73 240z with a large list of modifications, including the SU carbs from a '72, and a "fresh built" l28 engine and head. I've done a small set of fixes and minor modifications to get it running, but as of yet have only had momentary success, and I have a suspicion that the electrical is to blame for the behavior. I've got a Pertronix electric points system installed, with the flamethrower coil that accomponies it, and have confirmed I'm getting a spark. I just replaced the old fuel pump and have it measured at about 3.5psi, checked for any obvious vacuum leaks, put new gaskets on the floater bowls on the carbs, and played with the timing to see if that was the issue, but no luck. I've managed to get it started and idling, but only once, and after no changes, it refuses to again for more than a few seconds. I've tried with and without the ballast resistor, and am going to try some new plugs today, but I just can't seem to pinpoint the issue. Are there any obvious fixes I'm looking over that could be suggested, or common problems I might have looked over? I desperately want to get this beautiful old car back on the road, and would hugely appreciate any and all suggestions. Let me know what information/pics I can provide to help, and thank you in advance. -
So, my question is does the front strut housing off of a 240 bolt directly into a 280z? The only reason why I ask this is because coilovers, and sectioning the struts is easier and cheaper on the 240 struts and instead of cutting and welding the strut housing onto my Z I wanted to see if I could just bolt in the whole front assembly and save myself some headache.
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I am looking to buy a 240z RB26. 90%-100% complete car, engine issues must be already worked out ~400 HP looking to spend between 20-30k This has been my life long dream. Grew up with four different ones as a kid, have owned two myself Currently I have a '73 240z with N42 block and P90 Head 3 45DCOE Webbers with custom linkage and a cold air intake Electric fuel pump with fuel pressure regulator Steel braided fuel lines Ceramic headers 2.5" exhaust all the way to the resonator and Magnaflow muffler Aluminum radiator with electric fan 280z rearend 1" front sway bar with polyurathane bushings in front Stiffer springs all around and slightly lower ride height Perportioning valve Toyota 4 piston calipers and 280z Discs in front 240sx calipers and 280z discs in the rear Konig Imagine 17" wheels Recent platinum metallic grey paint Shaved markers H4 headlight conversion BRE Spoiler and License plate front air dam Wiring and weather stripping all redone No interior installed, full roll cage waiting installation Tired of projects, I want more
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Like the title states, I'm looking for a clean 4 BBL intake. I prefer the first two--Bob Sharp Racing or Arizona Z Car. If it's a Cartech adapter it must be extremely clean. The only reason I'm posting this is because Arizona Z Car is currently out of stock for the next couple weeks. PM me or let me know on the thread with price, details, etc. Thanks -
From the album: 73 240z
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I figured it was about time to start my thread on my 240Z that I've been building for a few years.... To start the background on the Z; I found it on ZCar.com in central Florida however it did live half it's life in Texas. Pictures looked pretty decent for a 72 and mostly unmolested. It had recent paint, classic hubcaps and upgraded 280Z block; 5spd and R200 diff transplant. After reviewing the pics and video, I made up my mind to commit to this one. The 175/70-14 donuts were so bad; they almost looked like original tires but what the hell, she was going to be a track car- right? I contacted the owner and found a flight on Jet Blue to Orlando for $99. I flew down on Saturday morning and my old boss picked me up at the Orlando airport and we drove over to check it out. Everything was as expected, nothing to make me fly back to Charlotte today. I did cut some of the fuel line and re-tighten some of the clamps just in case. Paid the guy and drove off to Charlotte. Car ran great up to Columbia where I stopped to see family and take a break from the drive. The biggest problem was the exhaust leak but with both windows down, wasn't too bad ~ Hit the house about midnight that night but she ran great and no issues. I drove her for about a year before the planning stages began. My last 240Z I built was 12:1 high compression L28 that I built back in 93 with forged pistons, floating pins; cam and all the fixins... L28's are pretty good but have limits and are still iron blocks. Looking at other alternatives; I started looking at RB swaps. The biggest issue I found was going to get parts for them, but wasn't a huge issue considering our global transportation system and JDM suppliers on the west coast. You can get a RB engine and wiring harness pretty decent price but then you want to get bigger turbo (s) and all the fixins...Some say the RB26 has too much power and RB25 is better...both can put out gobs of power and take your paycheck just as easy as making that power. There's some good suppliers of RB swaps these days too like McKinney. Then I started looking at VQ swaps like A Hoke. I like the idea of staying in the family but it wasn't that important- Weight and power were the main requirements. There were some VQ swaps out there that look pretty good but then I started looking at the power and decided no VQ35. Hmmm, what about VQ37? still pretty new and prices were still pretty high for a VQ37 with tranny and harness. I started to think about the old american love of sticking a V8 in a small foreign car like Carol Shelby. Why not? The SCARAB was our answer to this question. But the early generation small block engines were heavy and not what I was looking for in a car to track. After seeing Dave Palarmo's LS1 240Z at the 2008 ZCON @ mid-ohio I thought that was a nice setup. Doing some research on it; the LS engine is a few pounds different than the L28. Buying a LS1/T-56 combo was easy to come by but many of them have oil issues (lack of owner responsibilities in changing the oil) and ragged out / tranny issues with hard shifting over 80K+ miles on most of the combo's. Started looking at the various LS engines and options. The F-Body SS Camaro's and Firechickens were around and running car would cost about 4-6K depending on the condition. Better the condition the better the care I thought...THen started looking at wrecked GTO's for LS2 engines with lower miles. About the same in price. I put the word out and found an LS6 at the right price. A fellow track junkie and known around the circles; I was pleased to find this beast with about 4800 miles on it and already had a hot cam installed. So off to the rodeo I went. I started to strip down the Z and for the past three years- due to three crazy kids, wife and job...I'm "almost done!" kind of...at this point I'm just ready to get her started and shake out a few things- mainly what is left to do: Run brake lines (MC to wheels all aorund) Finish fuel lines (today?!?) Dash decision - Aluminum or stock (going twords aluminum to just do it...) wire it up Radiator Exhaust Battery wires THE LIST [Drivetrain] LS6 Engine - Fuel Injected with cable throttle body. T-56 Magnum- Enough to hold 600 HP. - Stock will not work (for long) Q45 / CV shafts. Driveshaft shop Aluminum driveshaft DXD dual friction clutch Interior Roll bar Auto-Meter guages Start switch Battery relocation / lighter battery Exterior ZG flares BRE spoiler [Chassis] Bad Dog Racing full frame rails New floor pans Stripped and painted underpan Stripped and painted front clip [Fuel] Fuel cell - 16 gal Summit circle track Russell Fittings Bosch 44 fuel pump Speedway LS conversion regulator For now- stock fuel rail [suspension] TTT rear lower control arms Coilovers - Koni Shocks Quick steering couplers / bump steer spacers TTT T/C rods TTT Lower Control Arms [brakes] AZC Wilwood on all 4 corners (6/4). Heavy Duty Rotors SS Lines all around Wilwood 1" MC 280Z Booster Pics attached... Thanks to Matt Isbel and Mike Kelly for inspiration as well as the countless hours on HYBRIDZ allowing me to second guess everything and upgrade upgrade upgrade... This is my first real track car so I'm sure I've screwed up somewhere- feel free to tell me -much of this has been a great learning experience from restoring cars since I was a kid helping my Dad to what I've built to date. So far I'm really happy and wish I could be ready for ZDAYZ but looks like that's out this year- Hope to get her to CMP this summer... Right now, I'd like feedback on the fuel setup - how much fuel starvation will I have and do I need to sump it? Any concerns with my setup like heat soak or fuel starvation issues I can avoid? Thanks in advance for the feedback
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Please delete.
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In need of a early (25 spline) rear outer stub axle, just one, don't need the companion flange. OR could be talked into a full set of 280Z stub axles and companion flanges. I'm in Columbus, OH, but willing to pay shipping. Thanks! Ben
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Looking for 240Z Strut mounting insulators (qty. 2) or 280Z fronts would work. email me: jminer84@gmail.com
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Hello All, I have a basically stock 1973 240z thats been lowered by the previous owner. Probably cut springs. I drive the car about 3-4 times a year so obviously it sits for long periods of time. I knew from a while back the brakes seemed to be dragging. Well I went to drive it yesterday and the rears are really dragging. The car will not roll even on a slight incline. If you jacked up the rear you cannot turn the wheel. The car will move forwards and back by the power of the engine in first gear but it will not roll. Let off the the power and it will not roll. I changed the master vac a while ago using a Cardone A1 reman unit. I recently verified that the reaction disc is in place. A new master cylinder was installed at the same time. So I need to know the proper steps to diagnosing this. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the master vac there is no change, the rear drums stay locked. The emergency brake is in the down (not engaged) position. I'm wondering if its the master cylinder but I have no idea how to test it on the car or off. The stock front brakes also seem to be dragging but nothing like the rears. Not even close. Still leads me to the master cylinder. In regards to adjustment of the rod from the master vac...not possible Maybe some are adjustable but mine would not budge a mm. Yes I can see it has threads behind the acorn shaped end piece but they appear to be simply decoration as that thing doesn't budge. I havent tried any PB Blaster on it though. If I open the rear hydraulic lines for each rear drum brake will that release the brakes? All brakes lines appear to be in working condition. I'm not sure if I had the emergency brake on when it was sitting for the last long period or not. Just want to drive this thing and now I can't. Thanks for all the help in advance.
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Hello HybridZ, I am in search of a Datsun 240z/260z/1975 280z in the Orange County, CA area. I prefer a rolling chassis, but a car with a motor is okay. I will be swapping in a Weber powered L28 race motor, so I would rather not spend money on a motor I will not use. I will be upgrading to an R200 differential so i wont need a diff or half shafts either. Rust is okay to a certain extent... Nothing too major. Missing interior is okay, as long as the dashboard with gauges are there. Id prefer not to spend more than $2000 for a roller, but I may be willing to spend more for a roller with zero rust and/or upgraded suspension components. I AM willing to purchase an out of state car, provided there are plenty of photos showing its condition and it isnt too far to drive and pick it up. Ill consider shipping a car here to SoCal. Thank you all for your time -Never2BeFinished I can also be reached by cell phone, (949) 322-72zero3. Texting preferred due to sporadic schedule, but I can always return calls later. -
I was trying to get rid of a flat spot on my tire, didn't really work too well but fun nonetheless. http://youtu.be/KtUypre2M8I
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I am looking for a 72-73 center console, Complete if possible. As good as shape as possible.
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Hey Guys, I'm a relatively new Z owner.. I bought a 1971 240Z at the end of summer, and I've been trying to get it into top running form. One of the previous owners put alot of work into it, but one thing that has been giving me a headache is trying to figure out what to do with the ignition system.. I've done alot of searches, and research, but the more I learn the more I don't know what to do. Basically I would like to upgrade from the old points system to electronic ignition, and just get the best possible setup. From what I've read It seems everyone has a different opinion on which way to go.. It currently has an Accel super coil, but after reading the specs online I'm a bit worried about the part where it says "Effective up to 6500rpm". My 240 has a .280 cam and has been balanced to handle high Rpms, and although I don't like to do it, it will go past 7500rpm.. But now that I'm thinking about it I'm not sure its really pulling as hard as it should past 6500. Maybe I'm just imagining that though. (I would go test it right now, but since I can't get it through emissions testing I can't put regular insurance on it, which means expensive permits.. That and I avoid the wet weather like the plague.) I would like the ignition to handle up to 8000rpm to take advantage of the cam, not that I plan on taking it that high very often.. Then theres theres upgrading to electronic ignition.. I'd like something easy to upgrade where I won't have to replace the Tach.. Pertronix sells a kit which sounds like an easy upgrade, but I'm not sure if it will work with my coil, which I don't know if I should keep... And it all needs to look original, or be from the 70's-80's period for my car to qualify for a local Vintage car race I'd like to take part in.. ahhh, that headache is coming on again Part of this upgrade is to try and get the car running as efficiently as possible to help with the emissions testing.. If I can squeze it through without having to get it specially tuned, and retuned, while spending the money on what I should be upgrading anyways I'll be very happy. I'm really at a loss to which way I should go here.. Any advice that you guys could give would really help.
