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Found 341 results

  1. Ok, my dad and I are about to put together my motor for my 73 240z and we have no clue how much power this motor will make. The head is rebuilt to stock its a 1973 E88 head. We have the Z Car Source master rebuild kit with .040 over flat top pistons, the pistons dont work with the head so we are having valve reliefs cut...we found this issue once we had the pistons and most internal in, check the clearance with #1 at TDC and the valves are coming in contact with the piston. Mods are; over bore(.040), header and AZC 4 barrel manifold/Holley 390. Any guess on horsepower at the crank would be greatly apreciated, I am geussing around 175hp at the crank. Thanks for any help.
  2. This SCCA-ITS prepared 1970 240Z has been sitting in a climate-controlled basement for several years. I stumbled across it through a friend of a friend. The previous owner raced it in the SCCA, ITS class in the late 90’s - 2000’s. He put a bunch of money and time into a new motor, prepared the car, ran one event and parked it. Life got in the way. I bought it with the intention of racing it but my wife has other ideas… Even though the car has been sitting for a while it was very easy to start. I put fresh gas in the tank, cleaned the float-bowls, put a battery in it, and turned it on. The fuel pump primed the system, I pushed the button and vroom! The previous owner is a pilot so the car was only ever run on aviation fuel, I think that’s why it was so easy to start. The aviation fuel is very clean and leaves little residue so the lines, carbs and tank are clean. I don’t know as many details as I should about the motor specs but what I do know is it purrs like a kitten. Everything that has been done to modify the motor was done to the very limits of the ITS class but it was legal at the time when he parked it. I have the old SCCA logbooks. When the car was built, it was taken down to the shell and acid dipped. They put a cage in it, primed and painted inside, outside and under. There are some minor repairs and welds done at the time the race car was built. Everything is straight and flat under the car. All of the hoses and fittings are -10 and -6 “Aeroquip” brand AN fittings. Obviously there are some bumps and bruises on the car because it is after all a racecar. - 1970 240Z vin # HLS30-02347 - Roll cage with NASCAR bar on the driver’s side - Aluminum seat - Detachable steering wheel - 3 welded differentials each with a different gear ratio (336,???,???) - Spare 4 speed trans - Battery kill switch - Rebuilt SU round tops - 3 into 2 coated header - Aircraft style oil cooler, adapter, and remote filter, -10 Aeroquip fittings and lines - Wide body oil pan - Fuel Cell, Holley “Red” fuel pump and regulator, Fram HPG-1 remote filter, -6 Aeroquip - Brake ducts to calipers and rotors - Ballast box with lead ballast installed. - Spare half shafts and drive shaft, bearings, u-joints, fasteners, etc. - Lots of extra parts and pieces; electrical, gaskets, mounts, brakes, engine parts, transmission parts… - Spare good motor that was run before they built the one in it, very clean, fully assembled ready to go - 2 sets of “Panasport” 14” wheels - E46 intake - E88 intake - Pit crew headset, and driver’s helmet mounted earpiece with quick connect fittings, Motorola brand I’m asking $6,000 as is, no delivery. The car runs and drives great and is a good car for someone who is getting into SCCA racing or just doing HPDE’s. I own a 1975 280Z and it is a blast! on the track. You can text, email or call me with questions and I will answer them to the best of my knowledge. See the link below for lots of pics, I also attached a video of it. http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/roscosremodeling/library/
  3. I have owned this 240Z for about 14 years. Before I bought it it used to run 8.50s in the 1/4 with a big motor. It can handle anything you can put in it. There is an article in a 1997 Hot Rod magazine about the car when it was running 8s. Currently it runs 9.60s with a 350 small block Chevy on 125 shot of N2O. That is as fast as I wanted to go and wanted it to be street legal. I have not races it for the past 6 years and have just taken it to car shows close by. It would take more than $60K to build this car so you can save a lot of money and time by getting this turn key street monster for less than half of that. This is what I do recall from the time I used to race it: Full 2x3 frame and cage from the front to the back. 355 SBC. 750 DP Holley. Iron heads with a lot of work done to them. 12.5:1 Nitrous pistons. Solid cam. Very dependable motor with low runs. 350 Turbo trans with the best stuff built by Steve Casner. Manual Valve body. 9" Ford rear with 31 spline spool held in by ladder bars. Hooks hard. I don't have a whole lot information more than what I posted above. If I find more information, I will post. Serious buyers only. Prefer local buyers. Buyer should come here to take the car as I will not get involved in shipping. Sorry no trades as I already bought the new toy a while ago. I just need to open up some room in the garage. Price: $27,700 Price As of 5/24/2014: $25,700 Price As of 6/10/2014: $23,700/best offer Contact me if you are serious about buying. Sorry I don't have a lot of time to chat about cars. WildZracing@yahoo.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1cfy3MWp6U
  4. Hey Zers! Well its come time to turn my stroker 280zx into a stroker turbo..right now i have 10:1 CR. I plan to install forged J.E Dished pistons and a 2.5mm HG. this should bring my comp down to a low enough leval to turbo charge.my biggest concern is going with an aftermarket EFI..im running tripple 44 mikunis right now.im thinking of using the N42 non-EGR intake manifold and a 70mm TB.greedy boost controller.Megasquirt 2,MSD 6-2.t3/t4 turbo,720cc injectors.blow off valve/waste gate etc..im wondering what sensors are needed to use megasquirt for my fuel control only.am i able to use MS for fuel only and use MSD 6 for my spark control? if this works,can someone please give me a short write up as to how to go about setting this up.im pretty new to EFI as i grew up with carbs (and im 21). Please,any insight on this would be great. P.S- I plan to run 17-20lb boost MAX! thanks~ Randall
  5. Sad day guys, I've been putting this off for a little while but it has to go. I'm sure I could get more if I part it out but I'd rather take a hit and get it over with all at once. I guess if I get no action on it then I guess I'll go down that road. As you can see it took a hit to the front right corner. I'm not much of a sheet metal guy so I figured it would be easier just to transplant my mods to a host that's already in better condition, however I don't have the funds or the time anymore. Perhaps someone else will want it for the engine swap, or to repair, or to part out, etc. In case you can't tell by the pictures, it has the GTS 5 speed. Rota RB wheels. The rear tires have tons of life, the fronts are shot due to poor alignment. The front right bamf flare was damaged a bit. The car runs and drives (intercooler is damaged on the bottom but not compromised), I actually drove a 30 mile commute for about a month while I was looking for something else. R200 3.700 CLSD with 300zxt CVs and the AZCar mustache bar. Techno Toy Tuning coilovers about a year ago. More recent poly kit all the way around. I bead blasted and painted the A-arms, struts etc. that I took off as I went. Front and rear sway bars. Lone Mountain disc brake conversion. 3" magnaflow exhaust if that does it for you. Engine runs strong and powerful like you'd expect. The only only only thing is that the mafswent out and I bought z32 replacements on the cheap because I've read they work perfectly. Well they don't. Your options include buying original mafs (or some other newer style that is guaranteed to work right), or switch to an EMS that doesn't need them, which is what I was about to do before this happened. Like I said, it still runs and drives, but the problem with these mafs is they seem to starve the engine at high flow. Cruising up to 70mph they work fine, if you try to gun it, they don't let you. It has a stage 2 ACT clutch and the original resurfaced flywheel, which wasn't doing it for me. Every once in a while it felt like the clutch slipped at WOT, guess 350ft-lbs wasn't enough. I have a brand new stage 3 setup ready to go in. Autometer gauges in oem pods. Uncracked center console and heater controls panel (later backlit model) Fiberglass door panels. The car has been collecting dust at work for two months but I've been running it periodically. I'm debating on whether to throw in the sound system with it or not because I'm not sure how desired it is to others vs how much I like it and could transplant it to another car. Alpine deck with ipod integration and Imprint tuning. Two amps (one under each seat) although I never installed the sub because I didn't have time to make the custom box I wanted in the spare tire well - although I have the sub too, never used also collecting dust. Those pioneer 6x9s are my favorite, but one of them has a loose wire internally and goes in/out every time you go over a big bump. Please ask questions, you'll get honest answers. Obviously I'm not going to ship the car somewhere, and I wouldn't recommend driving hundreds of miles with no hood or bumper, but I can trailer it a reasonable distance if that seals the deal. Also let me know if there is anything else you want a picture/closeup of. Best thing is probably just come see the car for yourself though. I feel like $7000 is the sum of all parts not including what's usable in terms of trim and body pieces. Perhaps some of you will say this isn't much because doing an RB swap alone costs twice that, others will surely say this is too much because it's a salvage, I say I'd be content to get $6000 for the whole car, as sad as that sounds after having invested such a great deal (I don't even want to add it up or I'll surely cry). Note: A couple small things I forgot to mention: the driver side window fell off the track so it doesn't roll up. Also it has a viper alarm and keyless entry installed (failsafe ignition cut with door, hood, and hatch pins, and a hidden killswitch to the ecu).
  6. So I can't seem to figure out this electrical problem. My turn signal switch worked for a while and then stopped working. Park lights still work when the headlights are turned on and hazard lights work, The brake lights worked for a while but recently stopped working as well (not sure if caused by turn signal problem) So I tried cleaning the connections by following this write up: http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ and after they still don't work. So i borrowed a turn signal from another 72' 240z and still nothing so it has to be before the switch. Haven't had the chance to follow the wire and i'm not really looking forward to dealing with electrical since i just fixed an alternator problem which was a headache. Any input is appreciated.
  7. Hi, I recently picked up some Chastain Shadow louvers for my 280z but they don't have the lower mounting plates that the captive screws go onto and tighten down on. These louvers are the kind that go underneath the weatherstripping and lift up. Thanks in advance, Brandon
  8. hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall
  9. Putting together a new 240z project with 280zx turbo swap. Car needs lots of work. Putting my plan together now and know that I need the entire AC assembly, heater core, blower assembly, and vent and control set up. I was positive that I found a post last week selling all of these parts but having now searched for the past two nights without finding it I'm increasingly convinced that it was a dream.
  10. I am looking to do my first zed build and am trying to put together a soft budget before I get too deep (1972 240z). I have budgeted out most of the guts, but am having trouble finding the particulars on the body I am looking for. I love the look of the two body's below but can't seem to find the correct air dam or flares? I believe another post had the air dam as an IMSA 3 piece but do they fit with the flares I want? Also, I am new to body work and do not know how wide these flares are. My questions are... What type of air dam are these? What type and size are the fender flares? Will the air dam fit properly with the fender flares as shown in the picture? Sorry if these questions seem simple, I just don't want to spend money where it isn't needed and get the right parts the first time around. Thank you!
  11. From the album: ls swap

  12. dreco


    From the album: ls swap

  13. dreco

    240z at Cars and Coffee

    From the album: ls swap

  14. I am looking into purchasing a set of 16x8 Enkei Compe wheels for my 73 240z. If you have them on a S30 please post pictures of your car! The picture below is not my car but this is the only picture that I can find.
  15. Hello, I'm Agita. I just bought a 240z that is in decently bad shape. It's rusted pretty bad in places and the driver's side panels will need to be replaced. The hood is damaged where some idiot used a crowbar to open it..... not kidding.....what a jerk. Most all of the interior plastic panels are in really good shape, one or two have small cracks that I'm not entirely worried about. One has two holes cut out for speakers..... sadly. I bought a whole driver's door in good condition minus a rust spot the size and shape of a quarter. Much better than the giant dent in mine. I also picked up a cowl that was without damage to replace the damaged one where the idiot with the crowbar used it as a brace to pop the hood. It's a 1970 240z. HLS30-02603 made in March of 1970 I've lurked here for a long while but now I'm gonna jump in. Lots of pics. Please feel free to comment or point anything out. I'm learning and researching as much as I can but I'm far from knowledgeable. I have lots of pictures and am willing to take a pic of anything you would like to see in specific. OK, I don't really know where to start, but the first thing would be the driver's floorboard. I've read about it a lot, and payed close attention to tutorials and all forms of processes listed here and elsewhere. ( feel free to link suggestions, I love reading about it ) I'm reasonably certain that I can replace the floorboards without problem, but I'm concerned about where the seatbelt bolts in near the door. The entire panel twisted out when I went to take the seatbelt off. (see the pic below) Is it okay to just weld in a strong panel then make a place for the seatbelt? Lots more, but lets start there and see what you guys think.
  16. ~KnuckleDuster~

    Nightfall Z

    From the album: 73 240z

  17. I live in Reno, NV (just east of the California border). Since the late 1990s / early 2000s (I don't exactly remember), I have owned a 1972 Datsun 240Z. I loved driving it, including to the SF Bay area. My finances were doing well about six years ago, so I had the engine and transmission removed, with the plan of installing the engine and transmission from a Datsun 280ZX. The plan stalled as my finances took a hit. So now I have a project car and I have abandoned any hope of completing the project. So, I'd like to sell the car as a project car, and this seems the place to advertise it. There's a whole write-up about the car, with many pictures, at a blog website I made about this project car, at: http://hls3064009.wordpress.com/ I am super-clear that approaching this as an auction (i.e., advertising low and then refusing to sell at that price, and accepting higher offers) is unacceptable. So, I'm taking a non-auction approach. I'm offering the project car with an optimistic price of $3000 with the sincere hope of getting that. Even so, I won't be offended by counter-offers even if they are for far lower amounts. ~Tanya
  18. New poster here... Just installed a new motor in the 71 240: F54/N47, comp cams 280s cam, 3x 40dcoe, headers, exedy regular clutch, flywheel from my l24, new timing kit, carter p4070, Holley 12-804 reg, mallory dist from l24. Also replaced 4 speed with 5 speed close-ratio. Using fork and collar from 240 trans because whatever collar came with 280 was too long and slave cylinder couldn't be mounted. The car makes a very odd sonar, red alert sound. It happens with the clutch pedal out and minor revs. Doesn't seem to increase with engine speed. Sounds like it's coming from the bell housing area... Strange. Also, I had to cut the tunnel/console to fit the shifter. Not needed with close-ratio?? Not so fast! I think the trans has an older bell housing on it. Serial 7y1594(1?). Oy. Gears 2 and 3 are mighty close, it must be the right tranny. New redline mt90 in the trans, too. Next problem: Carter pump mounted by tank, constant 12v. No need for regulator? Yeah right. Carbs poured gas out right away! Installed low pressure Holley 12-804 after filter in engine bay. Fuel pressure okay on initial startup, I checked it after a min and it was creeping up past 7psi. Adjust reg, no difference. Not running a return. Fuel is fed to carbs via 5/16" line. I thought these pumps had a bypass that would send gas back to the tank? I'll upload a short video of the sound ASAP.
  19. Hi, I'm fairly new to this forum and the world of Z's, but I'm hoping for some advice on what to attempt next. I picked up a '73 240z with a large list of modifications, including the SU carbs from a '72, and a "fresh built" l28 engine and head. I've done a small set of fixes and minor modifications to get it running, but as of yet have only had momentary success, and I have a suspicion that the electrical is to blame for the behavior. I've got a Pertronix electric points system installed, with the flamethrower coil that accomponies it, and have confirmed I'm getting a spark. I just replaced the old fuel pump and have it measured at about 3.5psi, checked for any obvious vacuum leaks, put new gaskets on the floater bowls on the carbs, and played with the timing to see if that was the issue, but no luck. I've managed to get it started and idling, but only once, and after no changes, it refuses to again for more than a few seconds. I've tried with and without the ballast resistor, and am going to try some new plugs today, but I just can't seem to pinpoint the issue. Are there any obvious fixes I'm looking over that could be suggested, or common problems I might have looked over? I desperately want to get this beautiful old car back on the road, and would hugely appreciate any and all suggestions. Let me know what information/pics I can provide to help, and thank you in advance.
  20. M1sterg


  21. So, my question is does the front strut housing off of a 240 bolt directly into a 280z? The only reason why I ask this is because coilovers, and sectioning the struts is easier and cheaper on the 240 struts and instead of cutting and welding the strut housing onto my Z I wanted to see if I could just bolt in the whole front assembly and save myself some headache.
  22. I am looking to buy a 240z RB26. 90%-100% complete car, engine issues must be already worked out ~400 HP looking to spend between 20-30k This has been my life long dream. Grew up with four different ones as a kid, have owned two myself Currently I have a '73 240z with N42 block and P90 Head 3 45DCOE Webbers with custom linkage and a cold air intake Electric fuel pump with fuel pressure regulator Steel braided fuel lines Ceramic headers 2.5" exhaust all the way to the resonator and Magnaflow muffler Aluminum radiator with electric fan 280z rearend 1" front sway bar with polyurathane bushings in front Stiffer springs all around and slightly lower ride height Perportioning valve Toyota 4 piston calipers and 280z Discs in front 240sx calipers and 280z discs in the rear Konig Imagine 17" wheels Recent platinum metallic grey paint Shaved markers H4 headlight conversion BRE Spoiler and License plate front air dam Wiring and weather stripping all redone No interior installed, full roll cage waiting installation Tired of projects, I want more
  23. Like the title states, I'm looking for a clean 4 BBL intake. I prefer the first two--Bob Sharp Racing or Arizona Z Car. If it's a Cartech adapter it must be extremely clean. The only reason I'm posting this is because Arizona Z Car is currently out of stock for the next couple weeks. PM me or let me know on the thread with price, details, etc. Thanks
  24. On 5-10-14, I raced the Z at the Street Legal Drags at Fontana Dragway. My best run was as described in the title. My Go-Pro camera recorded the view looking out the windshield. It was uneventful and looks boring but it was the best performance the Z has recorded. I know it could be faster but the turbos don't like the backpressure from a lengthy exhaust and mufflers. Also, I don't want to launch it at a higher RPM because of my previous experience with oil pan damaging wheelstands. The video has been posted in the video section.
  25. ~KnuckleDuster~

    New Exhaust

    From the album: 73 240z

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