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Showing results for tags '240z'.
Found 338 results
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
I discovered that my Z came with a K&N air filter. -
From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
Pulling out old carpet and sound deadening. -
From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
My 1971 240z. -
From the album: 71 240z
My 240z in her new home. It's a little cramped but I'll be taking care of that soon. -
From the album: 71 240z
I picked up my new 1971 Datsun 240z this weekend 06/17/2017 and getting ready to bring her to her new home. -
I have a 1972 240z, and the guy I bought it from got a viper security system and a beefy sound system wired in (very poorly might I add). I need to rewire a lot of the engine bay and the wiring diagrams available are not helping, a lot of wires are spliced and replaced that don't match up or are just taped off and lead nowhere. If anybody has a diagram of all the 10 pin connectors that are located underneath the passenger side of the dashboard it would help a lot, or if anybody has any self made diagrams that are at all related to engine bay wiring please post them, anything might help me out.
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Version V1
40 downloads
Simple roll center calculator for the Z car based on measuring the angle of the control arm. I tried to list all the definitions and assumptions. Please drop me a comment if you see any errors or improvements. I checked it against my professional software and got the same values when using the same inputs so I think the math is correct. -
Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX
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Fellow 240z Gearheads, I am looking to trade a semi complete 240z with a SBC for an extremely clean and professionally done rotisserie 240z shell. That means, all I want is a super clean and primer(ed) body, doors, hood, and ATTACHED interior dash/electronics/center console. If your car is already a high glossy black or super dark cherry red with high gloss, then that is ideal for me. I will do a straight trade if yours has all the normal parts but just not installed or partially installed. If its missing parts then lets talk about it. My 73 240z has a Chevy 350 engine already in it and it is pretty much ready to go, but it needs a bit of work on it. This car is perfect for a reasonably good mechanic with access to a lift as most of the work needed requires it. I bought the car some years ago to test how a 240z Chevy 350 conversion would run before going to a more serious setup. I am now ready but want to move to an LS7 conversion instead which will require new mounts and tranny setup. So I want to start with a very clean base. This car is ok as a daily driver and possibly a go fast daily car. I need something a little more show ready and super solid for a strip and road race car. Here are the problems with it. The flexplate (gear that engages with the starter) needs replacing. It also needs the timing set. When it ran it was pretty strong and it smoked just a bit (I am assuming because of the tuning issue). I also started replacing the transmission cooling unit but did not complete it. It will also need a radiator flush. Lastly, I have two starters for the car. One is too big (Chevy regular starter size) to fit on the custom headers. The other is the right size but I think the flywheel issue may require another. I installed a brand New Holley Street Dominator Carburetor, distributor, custom exhaust, Borla muffler, and custom headers. If interested send me a note to lvto2000@gmail.com or just contact me here. BTW - if you don't live in my state then your parts car needs to be able to be shipped or if you live close by (within 200 miles of Alexandria Virginia) then I can pick it up. -
Recently aquired a 1972 240z with 108,112 miles. Having an new extra vg short block laying around and a set of cima heads and manifolds, I decided to swap the vg into a s30. Not sure on what turbo I will run, but im looking into compturbo 6262, or a borgwarner s200. Looking for around 550-600hp. Heres my list so far: Stock motor with ported cima heads and jwt springs relocate position of turbo from driver to pass. side (not enough room to keep on driver side) aeromotive fpr walbro 485 pump -6 feed and return line id1000 injectors compturbo or borgwarner turbo custom top feed fuel rail turbosmart wastegate boost controller R32 gtr front brakes calipers with custom bracket (I will be running 16" so I will try to fit the largest rotor in them. custom intake manifold with q45 throttle body had a pair of ARC z32 intercoolers laying around that I will have modified to a single. z32 brake booster, master cylinder and possibly pedal z32 clutch master and possibly pedal possibly z32 diff installed and thats where im at now. The paint on the car will be redone. I purchased a new center console, new seals from black dragon and a bre rear spoiler. The respray will be porsche's carrera white
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Hello everyone on HybridZ! First a quick introduction, as this is my first post here on the forums. About a year ago, I bought a 1971 240Z which I bought from a gentleman Tecumseh, Oklahoma (right outside of Oklahoma City). I don't know much about the car's history aside from the fact that it sat at the gentleman's house since about 2008 because he thought that the engine was blown. Well long story short, the carbs were way out of tune and the distributor was turned about 180 degrees. Now a year or so later I haven't been able to get much work done, however I am in the process of stripping down the whole car, bagging and tagging everything. Being that the car will hopefully be completely stripped of all of its parts soon, I am looking into fixing the rust that exists on the car. The floor pans are long gone as well as the entirety of the passenger footwell all the way up under the cowl, just on the passenger side fortunately. The other hotspots per se are the driver's side a pillar which has a large rust hole, and a few other spots here and there. I am wanting to remove all of the rust that I can in order to ensure that my long-neglected Z doesn't have rust issues in the future. I plan on having it media blasted and epoxy primered (to prevent rust until I can have it painted), I was quoted about $1500 for the media blasting and primer work. I plan on replacing the floor pans, the frame rails, the rust hole on the a pillar, battery tray, etc. Now for my actual question, thank you for staying by the way. My main question is, in what order should I go upon repairing the rust and body flaws? Before or after the media blasting and primer? I've got a lot of work on my hands and I appreciate any advice that you've got. Thanks! -
Hey all, I took my 240Z to the track last weekend, and because it was a bit wallowy at high speeds and had a lot of body roll, I'm now looking into changing up my spring rates. Current setup: 200 lb/in front springs 22mm front sway bar 250 lb/in rear springs no rear sway bar pretty thin RCAs on the front (18.5mm) lowered somewhat but not a ton 205/55R16 bridgestone RE-11s Koni yellow single-adjustable (rebound only) race shocks -2.0º camber front and rear 2.5º caster (can't run more until I modify bodywork or relocate strut mounts rearward) 0 toe front 1/16" total toe in rear Next steps I was initially thinking of: put thicker (30mm) RCAs back on increase spring rate to 300 front, 350 rear (or even 350F, 400R) add a rear strut brace (front has a triangulated strut brace already) However, I was reading about tender + main spring setups and they seem really interesting (To be clear, I'm using the same terms Eibach is here: helper springs: soft, just keep main springs seated at full droop. tender springs: have sufficient spring rate to impact driving under other conditions; I've noticed that some people use these terms the other way around). It sounds like it could provide a good compromise between a car that corners fairly flat and doesn't move around to much on load transitions, but still has higher ability to absorb bumps well. One setup I was thinking of was: 350# main springs in the front, with #300 tenders, yielding an ~160# effective rate until the tenders reach coil bind. And something similar in the back. But, I also see lots of downsides: it seems like with the simple shocks I'm using, you'll only be valved decently for either the soft or the firm part of the range. it seems like this setup would actually be worse than my current setup for high speed stability by reducing the effective rate in those conditions. the bump absorbing ability would only be improved when the suspension isn't already compressed, so it does nothing to help when cornering near the limit and hitting some uneven pavement, i.e. conditions where you actually want this. the sudden transition from 160# to 350# spring rate after an inch or so of compression sounds like a great way to unsettle the chassis. Anyone here have any experience experimenting with a setup like this? It sounded good on the face of it, but I'm not convinced it can work. But if it can't, then why does these setups exist? Is it just another compromise between comfort and handling, or are there actual rear-world handling benefits from a setup like this? My goals for the car are: 1: fun to drive on back roads, and okay to drive on regular streets and highways. and that performs well enough on the track that it's fun to push it to its traction limit (which it wasn't really with the high amount of roll and floatyness I got last weekend) doesn't have be super comfortable on our pothole ridden California highways, but I do want to be able to drive it fast-ish on less than perfect surfaces, so it should be compliant enough for tires to remain in contact with the road most of the time. Some pics to show the amount of roll:
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Would someone be so kind as to look for me and tell me which side the wiring comes out of for the steering wheel, left side of it or right side of it, that would be super helpful. I'm having trouble getting the reach I need and I think I installed incorrectly.
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I've been wanting a Datsun for the last 20 years but it seems like there is never a right time to buy a 30+ year old car, especially with my intense love for motorcycles. Somehow I've finally managed to take the plunge and picked up a 1973 Datsun 240Z. Body work was "professionally-done" and was primered about a year ago. Interior is mostly complete and is the best i've seen since i started looking recently. A modified Ford 306 was swapped in with a 3-speed C4 transmission with a manual body. Suspension is stock. I'm going to post in the FORD V8 section in the next day or two as i am in completely over my head, lol. Here are some quick pictures, cause now "just-bought" thread is complete without them. Please forgive the blue tape, its been raining here in CA and the trim is in the garage at the moment.
