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  1. Rear differential swap mounting kit for Ford Explorer 8.8 differential into a 1970-78 Datsun 240Z, 260Z or 280Z. This is a basic kit for mounting the 8.8 differential into your S30 chassis with no modifications needed to the chassis. The 8.8 differential swap is a good choice when looking for different gearing options, lockers/limited slips and a virtually indestructible differential. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/ford-8-8-irs-rear-differential-swap-bracket-kit.html?search=ford Rear Axle related parts: - 8.8 Explorer stub axles 31 spline billet to 930CV: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/ford-8-8-irs-axles-explorer-style.html?search=ford - 8.8 Pinion Yoke to 1330 U Joint: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/drive-shaft/ford-8-8-rear-differential-pinion-yoke-to-1330-u-joint.html?search=ford - 8.8 Aluminum Rear Cover: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/ford-8-8-rear-differential-cover-aluminum.html?search=ford - Outer axles billet chromoly to 930CV: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-racing-chromoly-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html?search=outer+axle - Outer axle chromoly companion flange: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle - Billet Aluminum axle adaptor: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html?search=outer+axle
  2. New product: Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z front lower control arms in billet aluminum with adjustable rod ends. High quality parts, made in the USA, everything needed for proper fitment on your S30. $189.00 https://zcardepot.com/suspension/front-suspension/front-lower-control-arm-billet-adjustable-240z-260z-280z.html?search=front+control+arm
  3. So this is long over due. I apologize. I said from the time I started leaching off of Hybridz and the collective knowledge here, that I would post pictures as I started to progress. Well it has only taken a little over 3 years for me to start a build thread. Sorry. So I will try to do my best and keep a thread going of the progress, but I feel the need to start from the beginning. Always loved Z cars and in my teen years in the late 90's all I wanted was a 300zxtt, then I moved on to wanting a 350z and so on. Times changed had lots of different cars, and kind of forgot about Z cars. Planned on getting a project car, and debated between a factory five Cobra, or a 65/66 mustang fast back. All with the same theme. Old look new/newer running gear. A friend posted a picture one night of a light blue 260Z with ccw's, and My mind exploded. I had been looking at and trying to justify the price of a mustang at the time (30-45000 CAD) so when I started looking at prices of reasonable shape S30's I was blown away. I started searching and found a few in Canada. A beautiful one in Windsor- seemed high for price, a couple others (kinda rough) and then some down in the states. After hunting a bunch of ads, and becoming discouraged, I reached out to the guy in Windsor. He drove the car up 3 hours to me so I could see it, and we worked out a much better price. It is a 1971 240z. It was originally sold in Burbank California, and was imported to Canada in 2012 by the seller. He pulled it all apart found no rust - so the car was coated in por15. He swapped out the L24 for a L28 with an E88 head, and a 260 cam. loaded the new mill in with a 280zx 5 spd and an open 3.90 r180 from White head performance. Engine ran awesome and was pretty strong! All I needed to do was replace the brake drums and I was rolling.
  4. Hello everyone, My name is Erik and I'm located in Sweden or Switzerland (depending on when you ask) and I have been an on/off lurker for quite some time. Finally I get to start a thread about my own Datsun 240z restoration thread, but first an introduction is in order! I yearned for many years and finally managed to get the financials and a specimen all lined up. I was lucky to find a 240z just 10 miles from my hometown and after a quick peak I decided to take the leap. The car is a Datsun 240z from 1973, imported to Sweden 1983 and parked in a warm garage since 1990 with plans for restoration. These restoration plans never happened and I got the chance to buy the car in 2014. - Hood damage is from a previous carb fire. - L28 with triple Weber DCOE carbs. Anyone spy the Nissan 2000 OHC cover? The running gear is a L28, 5 speed gearbox, R200 differential and Weber DCOE carbs. Included in the car was the original drivetrain L24, 4 speed gearbox, R180 differential and SU carbs. Currently the E88 head from the L24 is installed on the L28 with an aggressive cam, but I have all the original components from the L28 as well (head, intake etc) in case I'd like to go that route. New panels were also included since some were identified as damaged and therefore procured in the 90's as part of the restoration plans before the car was put into storage. Plan for the car is a complete frame up restoration. The L28 drivetrain will be retained including the Weber carbs and the car made legal in Sweden. With the new drivetrain the brakes (including rear disc brake conversion) will be upgraded to allow legal road use in Sweden. In due time I'll be creating a separate thread for the actual work and progress on the car. Thanks for reading! Erik
  5. About me I don't want to go too in depth and bore anyone, so feel free to skip. lol My name is Kyle. I'm from Oregon City, Oregon. I'm in the USAF so that's why I am in CA. My current car is a 2008 Honda Accord V6 Manual 6 speed. It's a fantastic and very reliable car. Nice interior and sleek looking exterior. Just a good all around daily. And its the first car I have driven with a stick, and boy did I love it! I have spent a couple years with it, but after increasing its power steadily, I realized the limits and problems with a forward driven car. Not to mention the absolute BS that is California smog. I was at the point of either spend the money on a power adder, or a new car. I decided it wasn't worth pouring more money into a car that had such limitations. Especially in size and weight, she just wasn't very good in the twisties and back roads, so I decided I wanted a Rear driven pre- 1975 car. After a length of time searching, I couldn't believe what an awesome find a 240z was! A small, lightweight, Japanese car, pre- 75, endless parts, huge forum support, the list goes on! I was sold! The Car While on leave back in Oregon for a week, after 3 months of searching for a good deal on a 240z, one popped up for sale for $3,500. Super cheap! It was a 1972 240z with a Chevy small block V8, with a 3 speed automatic. A lot of people had interest, so decided I was done searching, and ready to start building; I bought her outright. Here is the AD: The Good -V8 Swap -The Trunk area, engine bay, and I (hope) under fenders were sprayed with bedliner -Body panels are straight -Badge and side marker light delete -Its a 240z The Bad (As I have quickly, or slowly discovered) -The paint is awful, and needs to be redone (Huge amount peeling) -The windshield wiper doesn't work -The heater doesn't work -The Air Blower doesn't work -The dash was cracked in multiple places -The passenger door was missing the interior panel -The engine, differential, and transmission were pissing oil -The hatch strut was blown -The lights were all extremely dim -The car got less than 8 MPG -Seats are cheap aftermarket ones. Fit nice though actually -You have to SLAM. And I mean SLAM the doors to get them to shut. I'm scared I'll shatter the glass! -The passenger window won't roll down -Probably a lot more I'm forgetting So yes, the car needed work. A lot of it. Was it awesome to drive and own a V8 car? Yes. Yes it was. I only had a few days of leave left, and I sadly realized I couldn't take her with me. Especially with the gas mileage at aircraft carrier fuel consumption rates. On the last night, I took my friend out for a spin, and very soon after leaving the driveway we could smell something burning. It was too foggy to drive fast, so we turned around and went home. I ended up leaving the car at my friends garage, which happens to live only a couple houses down from my dads. Here is the car next to his yellow V6 Mustang: We pulled the windshield wiper motor, the dashboard, the heater blower assembly, cut out random disconnected (and unsafe) wires and taped them up, and cleaned and vacuumed any debris. I loaded the dashboard and wire harness into my car to take back to Cali so I could be somewhat productive for the next 6+ months. Later my friend discovered that the wire harness caught fire in the engine bay! And the harness I had, was melted in multiple places. I decided to scrap it. I will need an entirely new wire harness. What I have been doing Research. Researching like a crazy person. I have also been buying parts like crazy and shipping them to Oregon. Since I'm stuck here, I: -Fixed the Dash Cracks / Sanded / Painted -New Vents -New glove box setup and badge -Autometer gauges -Realized the wire harness I had was hopeless after attempting repair My Friend has been inspecting parts that I send him, and tinkering on the car. -Sold Engine / Tranny / Radiator / exhaust for 750.00 -Sold Bumper -Sold Fuel tank Has a total of 1k. So the car as a roller was 2,500. Even cheaper! What Happens Now I am taking 30 days of leave starting on 20July2016. I plan to: -Sell the Honda -Engine Swap the Z to an LS motor. -Make the 240z my new DD. Here is the car as it is today. My friend installed the $420.00 Fender Mirrors, and there is the photo of the horrible quality Retro-Spec spoiler sitting on the hatch just to see what it looks like: That's it for now. Later I will post shots of my excel sheet of costs, future plans, ect.
  6. So I started looking into engine swaps for my '73 240z. I have been leaning towards getting a front wheel drive vq30de and putting a 350z 6 speed behind it (using a 350z oil pan, clutch, flywheel, etc.). I know this won't make much power compared to a 350z vq35de but if I put a turbo on it down the road I'm sure it'll be more than enough power for me and it's a really cheap motor to pickup. I've been thinking I want to try to get megasquirt to work as I like the flexibility and ability to change virtually anything. It seems, though, that there aren't too many people running megasquirt with a vq of any type, is there any reason for this in particular? I know the vq35de is a very complicated motor electronically, but apparently the vq30de is much simpler. I suppose it would be a whole lot easier to get it running with stock electronics, so I may go this route but does anyone know if the ecu needs to be messed with before you can get it to run without all of the associated security parts like with a vq35 swap? Sorry if this is all over the place, I'm just trying to get some rough ideas as I have only been able to do some reading around online. I know a few people on here have done this swap and I have searched but I was hoping for a little clarification. Now my other questions revolve around the drivetrain aspect of the car. I suppose I should ask this in the drivetrain section but I wanted to get an idea of what people are running as far as rear ends are concerned with their vq swaps. I already have pretty upgraded stock suspension and have silvermine motors stage 4 rear brakes, so I'd like to retain as much of this as possible. I like the idea of putting an R180 out of an Sti in as I can retain my brakes, control arms, coilovers, wheel stub axles, etc. However, if I am running a vq30det or a vq35de, with possibly up to 300 ft/lbs of torque, am I likely to be breaking diffs or associated parts with the Sti R180, or has this been done? I'd like something reasonably solid, even though I'm not gonna have LS1 torque and I won't be drag racing or drifting. However, from time to time my left foot may slip off my clutch pedal while my right foot may accidentally be pushing down on the accelerator pedal, and I'd rather not blow up my diff when this accidentally happens... My plan currently is to get the Sti diff but use CV's, as at least one member on here has done. I already have 280zxt outer axle flanges so this wouldn't be too hard to do, but I'm just not sure if this will be solid enough for this engine. I'm just not sure if I should be planning to go for an R230 or Ford 8.8 or something. Hopefully this isn't too off in left field, I know it's much easier when there's more specific questions but if anyone has some general guidance for me on this that'd be awesome. Thanks!
  7. SOLD Hey there! For a faster response, PM me! For Sale: Brand new Wolf Creek Racing CV Axle Kit for r200, never been taken out of the box. Come's with CV Axles (2), installation instructions, and 2 packets of grease. Location: Southern CA, willing to meet around the San Diego area. Price: $850 shipped (Continental US) Reason for selling: The WCR Kit doesn't work with Arizona Z Car's suspension, selling to make up the money to purchase the AZC kit: Had this conversation with Dave Patten, owner of Wolf Creek Racing before I ordered the kit: If you have any questions feel free to ask. If the ad is still up they are still for sale! Reason for edit: SOLD
  8. Here is the last dyno run we did to tune the car. It is a blast to drive. There are 29 pulls on this zip drive. You can just look at the last 3-4 pulls as they are the final tune. 225hp with 255 tq on the dyno. Think I am conservative enough on tune for longevity. Still need to work on decel, and initial tip in. Had multiple issues to deal with at the dyno. Kept losing power to the TPS(was the connection being loose on the spade to fuse panel). Blew coupler off did not know it for first 10 pulls. Pulled the power to 3 injectors by accident while closing the gaps on spark plugs. Had the vacuum lines to the boost controller wrong, hence could not build boost. Thats how it is when you don't finish things you start, or finish things others don't. Have to look over everything. Data Log Zip File.zip
  9. Hi everyone, This is my first post here. I bought my first Z almost a year ago to the day and have been working on it since. After much research and inspiration from this site I've decided to do an L28et swap into the 240z. Bought a 1983 280zx Turbo today and don't need all of these. I have 750 feedback on eBay my account is 7ad3jc. I will update this listing as best I can. L24 from 1972 240z no manifolds or harmonic balancer - $100 Car and all parts are in Missoula, MT. Has a clean title never been in an accident. Body panels are pretty nice for the most part normal rust in normal places. If you have questions I can take more pictures if needed. Currently has steelies on it turbo wheels are sold. $200. T5 transmission and driveshaft are also available for sale - $125 MSA 6-2-1 Header with painted in VHT Aluminum header paint some scrapes but should come off with no problems if desired. Collector is welded on in picture but will be removed for shipping - $100 1983 280zx turbo radiator. Almost 0 fins bent. I wiped it off a little bit but did not want to damage it so it is still a little dirty. Paint is cracking on outside. No leaks. No hoses cap is a worn - $80 280zx T-tops driver side is broken. Passenger side is missing top chrome trim. Plastic inside trim in poor shape and broken - $40 for pair 280zx windshield outside trim. Nice shape two dents on drive side could be repaired is desired. Two clips broken on bottom piece others good - $30 for set 280zx Hatch outside trim. Normal wear could be polished up to be mint - $50 for set 280zx outside door seal trim pieces good shape - $20 for pair 1983 signal and wiper controller nice shape working as far as I could tell. Pigtails included - $75 280zx Turbo center console. Arm rest is in poor shape. Everything else is fair. Metal plate below boot is rusted but still usuable bottom wiring and pigtail included - $50 Engine bay light could be cleaned up - $20 280zx side markers all have connectors nice shape need to be cleaned - $20 for all 280zx front inside trim pieces. Passenger has two very small crack hard to see slightly discolored - $20 for pair 280zx inside behind door trim pieces nice shape slightly miscolored - $20 for pair 280zx door bottom trim pieces. Nice shape couple mounting hole damages but can't see when installed. Nice color - $25 for pair 280zx under dash vent pieces nice shape - $20 for pair 280xz cowl vent for washe lines. Nice shape no damage - $20 280zx dash vents trim piece miscolored chrome flaking - $15 280zx inside roof trim piece nice shape but discolored - $15 280zx under dash panels with lights nice shape one light has small cracks - $25 for pair 280zx steering clam shell nice shape - $20 280zx do not know where this goes if you want it let me know - $0 280zx e brake boot nice shape with snaps - $5 280zx door panels nice shape the plastic piece behind the handle is broken on both otherwise slightly discolored - $50 for pair 280zx Kick panels nice shape I have the fuse box door too but not pictured - $20 for pair 280zx glove box and door in nice shape. Swith included. Unlocked - $20 for set 280zx rear window trim pieces nice shape slightly discolored - $40 for pair Early 90s speaker setup. Rockford Fosgate 75HD Mosfet amp with Pioneer Premier speakers looks like 6x9 - $25 for everything 280zx brake and clutch pedal assembly rusted but functional - $75 280zx front and rear wiper pumps and reservoir - $10 280zx clutch master cylinder nice shape - $25 280zx brake master cylinder nice shape with sensors and caps - $25 280zx brake booster nice shape - $25 280zx injector cooler setup nice shape - $15 280zx fan and clutch nice shape - $20 280zx headlight washer pump and reservoir - $15 280zx hood release - $15 280zx cruise control unit - $15 280zx wiper motor - $15 280zx hood vents only one stud on back broken paint is bad - $30 Other items I have: 280zx Digital Dash cluster, unsure if it works all pigtails - $45 280zx radio center piece - $40 The rest of the 280zx is still available let me know what you need and I can check condition and pull parts Prices do not include shipping. Paypal or meetup only. PM me on here or call/text me at 4065291279 Car is located in Missoula, Montana right now.
  10. Hello everyone! I hope you are all having a pleasant day. I recently bought a 1970 240z after saving money for a long time. I was excited and said that it will be easy, that I am gonna build it within the next few months. I was naive and after reading a certain post on this website, i was "enlightened". "For the newbie car guys on this forum.. New to building Z cars and etc.." Is the post I read. I now want to take my time to enjoy building the car and learn as much as i can through this "journey". I would like to mention that there is no budget concerning this project since I think it will last a life time Here I am now to ask all of you who have experienced building a Z. I ask you for all the advice you can give me and to answer any question listed below if you please. If you think there is a link that will answer or help me in anyway, go ahead and add it. 1. What would you recommend to have in a garage in order to modify a car in general? I am new to this so please list everything you deem necessary 2. What are the reasons you chose a certain engine? The Z i bought has an rb25de neo and I wondering about the positives and negatives about the engines (2JZ, SR20DET, RB26DETT, etc) 3. For a newbie like me, what would you recommend I do in order to gain more experience? 4. Where do I begin? 5. Which differential do you use and why? This is my first time posting so I do apologize for any grammer/spelling mistakes as English is not my first language. I also do not know what information am I missing in this post so, if there is anything you would like to know about me or the Z, please ask away! Regards!
  11. Like the title says Q45 throttle body with TPS and pig tails $180 shipped.
  12. I'll stick this here knowing the subject has probably been beat to death already. Recently rebuilt mikuni 44phh carbs and added a Schneider 270-80f cam to E88 head, 2.6l block. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. The car started a little rough with a lot of backfire through the carb. I thought of the dizzy being 180 out but confirmed it wasn't. I have start to play around with advancing the timing. Initially it was idling at 0deg and rough, 2-3000rpm would hit 15-18deg and smooth out the roughness. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. I currently have the: Mikuni pilot screws are all out 1.5 turns. Idle sitting 1000rpm 15 advance at idle 2-3000rpm advance is probably at 30deg (off the scale) Still getting backfire through carbs particularly on cylinder 1 at idle. Next steps tonight are too sync the carbs, adjust with the idle on backfiring carbs - am I missing anything? I've attached an idle video and picture of jet sizes. Any input or comments would be helpful.
  13. Background: Long story short, wasn't interested in cars until I got screwed over by a dealership replacing an alternator shortly after moving to Maine from Ireland. Found a '84 300zx for $300 on Craig's and proceeded to teach myself the dark arts of car wrenching, and consequently fell in love with Z cars/Group B/Rally/Hillclimbing Fast forward a few years, I picked up a 1970 240z with some track prep work done and it begun: Cars 1970 240z: 2.6l engine Mikuni ph44 carbs Battery relocate. MSD Ignition Rota Grids with Toyo Proxxes Put cosmetic (Flat Black paint), small amount of mechanical work (New clutch, relined tank, new Holley Red FP, FR, SS lines) and new shoes on the car to prep for the New England Hillclimb Association 2015 season. Work and life got the better of me and only got to one race. Car performed pretty good and the driver got a lot better over the weekend. Couple of issues raised their heads over the race weekend: Keeps popping out of second gear. Power-band not right. 1st, 2nd great to 6500rpm, go to 3rd and bogs down bad. Last two races, kept stalling in low rpm and overheating - I believe this was from running out of fuel and picking up something in the carb. Need a full roll cage if I keep racing it; wife and kids agree. The last bullet is how I happened upon the 280z. After pricing a cage and always being on the hunt for a deal I came across this 1976 280z in a wrecker yard in MA. Something caught my eye on the Craig's post - I had been lurking on Hybridz for many years and thought had seen the chassis before. Upon viewing it was indeed one of RB240zDET's builds. I was able to get the car and good price and figure the project would be worth my time. 1976 280z - as it stands: Tubular frame chassis. R33 rear subframe and R230 diff. RB20DET engine mated to GTS trans. Lexus SC400 front end. Probably a bunch more I have yet to document. Link to PO frame build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102035-rbs-builds/ Link to RB20DET PO: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94498-just-a-few-pics-of-what-i-have-been-up-to/ Current Winter Plans: 1970 240z - Clutch fan delete./Install aluminum rad and dual fan setup. Find a 5-speed (Anyone got one?) More aggressive cam for hillclimb racing Carb rebuild New fuel cell and sender install. Go racing 1976 280z - Verify and finish engine wiring. Get engine to run or at least show some life. Pull said engine and trans. While deciding if to keep engine or not; fix some weld, blast frame and prime. Select engine. (Open to offers on the RB20DET if anyone is interested.) Build monster. Go racing. Garage - 100A Subpanel 5kw Heater. 40A circuit 208v for welder. A few 20A 110v circuits. Insulation Sheetrock Paint Some sort of shelving system for organization. Any comments, suggestions, critique is welcome. Seán
  14. Hello, I have been scouring the internet trying to find info on bucket seats from Bride Zeta III XL and the STATUS RING GT-X Now I know bride makes the rail/bracket for this car for the zeta type seat, and the planted or wedge makes brackets with status sliders /side mounts will work with the status seat. I am just having one hell of a time trying to find out if these seats will fit in the s30 240z as i can't see to find the definitive max seat measurements cheers!
  15. Freshly rebuilt OEM master cylinder. Reservoirs included. New internals are already inside. Willing to trade for BRE wing or others parts, just let me know what you have.
  16. zdrade

    WTB: l28et

    Hey guys, I'm looking to swap an l28et into my '73. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Located in central California willing to drive as far as San Diego + Sacramento for pickup. Thanks
  17. Wanted to update my parts list in order to get some of this stuff moving. Cut some prices and added a few more items for sale. PM/email me if you have any questions about a particular part or would like to see additional pictures. Prices do not include shipping. I will ship most items or you can pick up in Tacoma, WA. Thanks. Chris cheath5521@gmail.com DRIVETRAIN 240z R180 Half Shafts $40 240z Drive Shaft $50 SUSPENSION/STEERING 280z Steering Column Powder Coated $75 SOLD 240z Tension Control Rods (powder coated black) $25 240z MSA Rear Sway bar (no hardware) $80 $50 SOLD 240z 1" Front Sway Bar w/poly bushing kit $125 $100 SOLD INTERIOR 240Z Kick Panels OEM $20 $15 SOLD 240z Interior Dog Leg Panels Red OEM $50 $40 240z Overhead Roof Panel Black OEM $40 $30 240z Interior Tail Light Panel Black OEM $75 $60 240Z Sun Visor Set Red OEM $125 $100 240Z Heater Motor OEM $50 $35 72 240z Stock Radio $25 SOLD 240z Glove Box Cardboard New $30 $20 EXTERIOR 240z Passenger Door window trim $40 $30 240z Front Grille OEM $50 Each SOLD ENGINE Two Row Harmonic Balancer OEM $30 Assorted Water Pump Pulleys OEM $20 each 280z Cooling Fan and Clutch $75 $40
  18. So I had bought an S30 air dam from Japan this past summer but never got around to mounting them to the car until this past winter. I originally got air dam with turn signal cutouts because I was planning on doing front turn signal swap and going for a 240z set, now I'm not so sure. Anyway, upon install I realized that the air dam doesn't come close to the sitting flush against the mounting points near the headlight buckets. At first, I figured it might be because there's extra material on bottom of the mouth of the air dam but I assume that even after cutting it it still wouldn't sit flush on the mounting surface anyway. Additionally it seems as if the vertical faces on the inside of the turn signal cut outs aren't long enough to sit flush with the inner most edge of the mounting surface. Also when you have one side of the air dam seated flush along the fender lip, the other side is pushed away from it, which leads me to believe that the air dam's overall size is too narrow. Am I wrong in assuming that the 240z and late 280z air dams are similar in nature? I'm very close to just purchasing a fiberglass 280z air dam and redoing it in carbon. Apologies for the lack of light in the photos, I was doing this at about 11 at night.
  19. Reading at 0 throttle is 220 and at full throttle is 1238. Is that correct? Keep losing signal, have traced it through a spade connector that was loose. Once I have reset the signals is as above readings. Throttle application seems accelerated, as in 1/3 is half.
  20. From the album: New Parts

  21. Hey guys, not sure if there will be any interest but I want to post up my build here just so I can look back through it for whatever reason. I am starting with an almost completely rust free 240z I picked up for a decent price here in phoenix and have plans to daily it, more or less stance, and eventually make it a nice little track rat I won't feel bad about beating up on when I go road racing. Just recently sold my c5 Corvette after feeling bad about beating it up around the track and the high expenses of everything motor and trans wise so I found this and immediately knew I was going to have a blast driving it (outside of summer, it just got to 115 F here . Working outside yesterday in that was NOT fun. Bought the car a few weeks ago and it was running and driving, albeit it smokes a little which I think is because it is running very rich, and the radiator leaked so I couldn't drive it before buying, just hear it run. Body is in great shape with the exception of the roof which has some dents. Don't ask me how they got there I have no clue haha. Guessing it wasn't treated right as there is a trucker lady front license vanity thing, HUTCH written on the back, and mud flaps when I got it.. Here are the pics of where I first got it and then of me using my first AAA tow. I was amazed at how fast they got there to pick it up! Definitely hasn't been moved in a while, but that will change! First order of business was getting it running and making sure it wouldn't overheat in the brutal Arizona summers. I originally was going to get the original radiator fixed and save me some money. $75 to clean it and get it going so I figured sure why not, save myself some money. Got called back and apparently it would be another $125 to rod it out... so $200 into an old brass radiator when I can get a nice aluminum 3 core for $140. Easiest decision ever! decided now is a good time to put new hoses on as well and I found these gems... Totally rotted out and broken.. so time for a new replacement! Ordered those in along with a new thermostat and were ready to go!... or not. Temp gauge wasn't working so after checking all the wiring I found the gauge was bad and more than likely the sender too. So after trying to get it out unsuccessfully, sorry no pics of this, It was so badly gouged I needed a new lower thermostat housing and temp sender. Yay! Got those in and found a 280z gauge on craigslist and swapped out the front so it would fit behind the cluster like my original gauge and then now we have temp! Does not overheat! I will not mess with cars that overheat, after having severe issues with my big block cutlass and a number of other cars, it just isn't something I like to touch anymore. After this I decided it was time to get keys for the car as I was given none when I bought it. Looking online and at local auto part stores I was not able to find any door lock cylinders for a 240z that could get here in a reasonable amount of time and I was not about to spend bookoo bucks on a full complete set. SO I found that lock cylinders from a 80's 510 fit perfectly if you do very minor work to it. I can take pictures of this if anyone is interested in a cheap way to get new door locks. Onto the hatch lock... I was able to take it out and find a guy on craigslist who makes keys by feel alone! He had a few blanks and a file and in under 10mins made a perfect key for my trunk. What an art! I now have a car I can start and lock Here is a few more pictures of the car and a pic of the seat I will be putting in it out of my c5. Sparco Sprint V and I fit SNUG. Totally holds you in around corners. The old seats are roached and this will be perfect. I will be making a bracket soon to fit in in. I also took the rear bumper off and cut the ridiculously long muffler off! I've always loved the look of ZG flares and only ever had deep dish wheels on one other car and those only had around a 2 ish inch lip so this time I wanted much more. I had thought about getting diamond racing steelies and ZG flares but there are already so many of them and being as cheap as I am there had to be another way. I was able to find some Eagle 028's for $130 on craigslist off of a Cherokee and they had the dish I was craving! I was hoping they could just be redrilled to 4x4.5 but they already had so many bolt holes there was no room to drill. These are 15x10 with -44 offset (3.5 backspacing or 3.25 I forget exactly). They stick out quite a bit! I decided I am either going to spend a lot of money on rims that I like that fit or spend a little bit more on 5 lug swapping the car. I like the 5 lug look a little more anyways and this would let me inspect a the car a little more and keep me occupied over the summer. I have some of the extra wide ZG flares and 5 lug front hubs on order and they should be in soon! I will be taking pics of the rear soon. For the rear the drums were shot and I don't want to get old drums redrilled. After looking at the prices of how much new drums and pads were.. around $150. Thats assuming everything else was still good. Not going to happen. I decided a disc brake conversion was in order. I bought new rotors for $22 each, both front calipers off a 1985 Maxima for $15 and $6 for some 1/8 inch sheet metal. Just finished building the bracket and it looks... interesting.. but it will work and hold everything exactly where it needs to be. Only downside to this is I no longer have an E-Brake. Which to me is a plus because I would just pull it and try to do something stupid anyways.. Another forum member Jmai86 I believe did a coilover conversion using cheap ebay Emusa coils and that is the option I will be doing. They are on order and should be in soon and I can take pics of the conversion as well if anyone is interested. I can post pics of the disc brake conversion as well if anyone wants to convert the rear to disc for under $100 depending on how much the proportioning valve runs me I should be able to keep it right around there. Also just got my tires in! 225/50/15 khumo ecsta. $86 each from online and they look cool. Will post pics soon. Actually a very minor stretch, I wish I went to 205/50/15s to be honest. Cheaper tires like $50 each so thats a plus. Well I will go take a few more pictures of the conversion and the tires all mounted and interior stuff. Let me know if you guys want to see more or any questions and if there is interest I will post the build as it happens!
  22. As the title suggests looking for a z that's swapped clean would be a plus. As much as possible no rust. Willing to travel for the right one
  23. I have a new set of front brake lines (Motorsport Braided lines and Classic Tube Stainless hardlines) for 70-73 240z that I have never used. This is just a set I put together for the front. $65 shipped to the lower 48. Here are the links to them new. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5121 http://www.classictube.com/front-inlet-lines.html PM me if interested. Chris
  24. New in the box 1974-1978 Datsun 280z Firewall Insulator from Black Dragon Auto. Ended up not using it on the car. $80 plus shipping. PM me if you have any questions or want additional pictures. I will ship or you can pick up in Tacoma, WA. Chris cheath5521@gmail.com
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