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Found 340 results

  1. In order to ring in the new year, and celebrate our 6th year of being in business we have decided to give Hybridz forum members a discount on all our brake upgrades! The sale will be for the month of January 2013 The new prices are as follows: Stage 4 front kit (s30) = $445 (has not been this inexpensive since they came out) Stage 3 front brake kit (s30) = $305 (240z kit is $375) Rear stage 4 brake kit (s30) = $755 280zx stage 4 front kit = $629 Pm or email me for these prices edan@silverminemotors.com Or call me at (818) 636-2797 Here are the pics and descriptions for each brake kit. For more info. Go to silver mine motors.com Stage 4 front brake kit = $445 For 240z, 260z, and 280z. This brake kit comes with the following parts: 1. Enormous 4 piston calipers (43mm pistons) 2. Vented, slotted, and drilled CNC rotors with zinc plaiting to prevent rusting 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines 4. Custom fabricated T6061 aluminum spacers 5. Ceramic brake pads 6. All the needed hardware As you can see this kit is a complete kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. Installing is very easy, and can be done in less than two hours. The 4 piston calipers you will be getting have the biggest pistons available (43mm). The vented slotted and drilled rotors are professionally built with CNC machines, and zinc plated to prevent rusting. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today. So you can believe they will not have any problems. The aluminum spacers are made of the highest grade of aluminum on the market T6160. These spacers are very light and extremely strong. The ceramic brake pads are built buy centric brake company. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final price. I personally have this brake kit on my 280z and it made a big difference, my car now stops on the dime. Pleas allow one week for parts to be built and shipped out after payment is received. Over all it’s a great brake kit that will make your Z stop faster and better than you could ever imagine. It has bigger pistons than the $800 kits Willwood sells, so you do the math. Pleas specify what type of z car you have when you order! Stage 3 kit (front) brake kit Sale price: $345 For 240z, 260z, and 280z. This kit includes: 1. Four piston calipers 2. Slotted and drilled CNC rotors with zinc plaiting to prevent rusting 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines. 4. Ceramic brake pads As you can see this is a complete kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. This is a big brake kit for any Datsun zcar made during 1970-1978. The calipers are four piston calipers, which are a big increase in piston size as opposed to the dual piston caliper that came on the car from the factory. The slotted and drilled rotors are professionally built with CNC machines, and zinc plated to prevent rusting. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today. So you can believe they will not have any problems. They are also steel braided with a layer of clear lamination to prevent expansion of the line under pressure. The ceramic brake pads are built buy centric brake company. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final Stage 4 rear big brake kit = $755 This kit includes: 1. Pair of new 11.8 inch CNC drilled, slotted, vented, Zink plated, and machine balanced rotors. 2. Pair of brand new Enormous1.6 inch (43mm) single piston calipers with e-brake function. 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines. 4. Ceramic brake pads 5. One pair of custom fabricated 1018 alloy brackets. 6. All the needed hardware. 7. Installation instructions. As you can see this is a complete brake kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. There is currently no other brake kit with e-brake function on the market that has bigger piston calipers than this brake kit. The calipers are the strongest calipers in any rear brake kit available with e-brake for our Z cars. They feature 1.6 inch pistons (43mm) and an amazingly strong e-brake function. These calipers are also available in many local auto parts stores so replacing them is not a problem. They originally came off a car with 500 hp from the factory. So you can believe they will stop your light z car with whip lashing power! The pair of Drilled, Slotted, Vented, machine balanced, and Zink plated rotors are professionally built with precision C.N.C. machines. They are Zink plated which prevents them from rusting. The rotors are also vented which will greatly lower the chances of brake fade under extreme driving conditions. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today, except that they are much much stronger. So you can believe they will not have any safety problems. The custom fabricated brackets are made of 1018 steel. They will never rust or corrode. Just to give you an example of how strong they are the stock brackets off most cars today including the maxima brackets have a hardness level of about 13. These brackets have a hardness level of 17. They are not hardened on the outside, so they will not snap. The metal that was used to make these brackets is made in U.S.A. and is certified by two reputable American owned alloy companies: Nucor cold finish group, and Fry steel company. Aluminum brackets are as strong as twigs when compared to these brackets. The ceramic brake pads are built by Posi Quiet. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final price. I can also get you different types of pads if you email me what you?re looking for. This kit does require 15 inch rims or bigger. It will hook up right to your stock e-brake cable. Installation requires you to either: 1. Remove your stub axels. 2. Or cut of your stock drum brake backing plate. One good thing about removing your stub axels is that you get to change your old wheel bearings, which I strongly recommend you do, unless you already have. I personally have this brake kit on my car and let me tell you, I can give my unexpecting passengers whip lash when I press on my brakes. The car stops on the dime, even when I?m going well over 100 miles per hour. I use to have the maxima caliper brake kit with the 300zx rotors and it is nowhere near as strong as this kit. Note: 1. For you people who have re drilled you stub axels to a 5x4.5 lug pattern this brake kit should work for your car as well. 2. You should also think about using a bigger master cylinder when you buy this kit, the added piston area will use more brake fluid than your stock brakes. I can supply you with one for an additional $65. comparison 240sx caliper vs. our stage 4 rear brake kit caliper. 280zx stage 4 front brake kit =$629 This brake kit includes: 1. Enormous 4 piston calipers (43mm pistons) 2. 11.8 inch CNC drilled, diamond slotted, vented, Zink plated, and machine balanced rotors 3. DOT approved custom fabricated steel braided brake lines 4. Custom fabricated T6061 aluminum spacers 5. One pair of custom fabricated 1018 alloy steel brackets, with Zink plating to prevent rusting 6. Ceramic brake pads 7. All the needed hardware As you can see this kit is a complete kit. There are no other parts needed to complete the installation. Installing is very easy, and can be done in less than two hours. The 4 piston calipers you will be getting have the biggest pistons available (43mm). These calipers are also available in many local auto parts stores, so replacing them is not a problem. The vented slotted and drilled rotors are professionally built with CNC machines, and zinc plated to prevent rusting. The steel braided brake lines are custom made to fit this brake kit for easy installation. They are also government DOT approved just like the stock brake lines that come on new cars from the factory today. So you can believe they will not have any problems. The aluminum spacers are made of the highest grade of aluminum on the market T6160. These spacers are very light and extremely strong. The custom fabricated brackets are made of 1018 steel. They will never rust or corrode. Just to give you an example of how strong they are, the stock brackets off most cars today including the maxima brackets have a hardness level of about 13. These brackets have a hardness level of 17. They are not hardened on the outside, so they will not snap. The metal that was used to make these brackets is made in U.S.A. and is certified by two reputable American owned alloy companies: Nucor cold finish group, and Fry steel company. Aluminum brackets are as strong as twigs when compared to these brackets. The brackets also come zink platted to prevent rusting. The ceramic brake pads are built buy centric brake company. They are very quiet and smooth. If you don't want the brake pads you can subtract $20 from the final price. I personally have this brake kit on my 280zx and it made a big difference, my car now stops on the dime. Over all it’s a great brake kit that will make your Z stop faster and better than you could ever imagine. It has bigger pistons than the $800 brake kits Willwood sells, so you do the math.
  2. So i recently purchased a 4/1987 z31 turbo 300zx donor for my s30 l28et project. Originally I planned to fix her up and make her my daily for a while, unfortunately the HOA has issues with my roomates and i having several cars parked outside. Therefore I have to pull the parts i need for my s30 so i can get it off the street. I know for a fact that i can use the transmission, differential, rear brakes, and ecu. I think i might have read once that i could use the axels and half shafts as well. Is there any other parts that you guys would recommend that i should pull off of the donor car while it is still available? Any advice or suggestions that could be offered would be greatly appreciated. I have done my research and to my knowledge this is all that i would need off of the z31. i would hate to sell it and wish i had pulled something more. I know these builds are quit common so any other helpful hints or advice would be awesome. Any other forum suggestions would be helpful too i tried searching this topic and nothing came up so sorry to start a new thread if one already exist. cheers
  3. Hello all, I picked up a 72 240z in October and have been working on it ever since. It has a 327/Turbo 350 that was NOT done following the JTR manual. Everything is "custom" when I say custom I mean whatever the guy could find in his barn in the corner. This car has been definitely molested. I have utilized the site like crazy figuring stuff out. Its not as bad as it sounds but this car will never be a show car that's for sure. It runs awesome I can at least say that. I would love to find some other Z people in the area. I am in Kent. I was a VW guy for years and years owning a Scirocco 16v. This car is much more exciting. Cheers!!
  4. Hi, I have a 1972 240z with some mods from the previous owner, so there are a few things that I'm not sure about. I believe that I have an R180 diff (because of the rectangular back cover). But the gear raito seems to be 3.70:1 (18 tooth blue speedo gear) and speedo is accurate as far as I can tell (my wife was in her car next to me verifying speed via cell phone... yeah... I'm high tech). The speedo was off by about 5mph, but thats because there was a 17 tooth (black) speedo gear in the trans, I switched it to the 18 tooth (blue) speedo gear and that fixed that. My tires are pretty much stock (well, stock size, zx rims) 205/7O/R14 so I don't think the speedo was off because of that. Here's the problem, I don't think Datsun/Nissan made an R180 3.70:1 For a Z car, at least, I have not been able to find any info about such a differential. I did a lot of research and I found that Nissan did make an R180 3.70:1 in the Maxima, Manual trans, but I have no idea if that's true (internet source) . I suppose it is possible that the previous owner put in a maxima rear diff. I know that there was an R200 3.70:1 in the 1979 280zx 2+2 with manual 5 speed trans, but I don't believe that I have an R200 in my car. Soooooo, I have no idea what kind of differential I have. I don't want to take the back cover off right now to look at the stamping on the gears. I would like to put a R180 4.11:1 in (that's from a 84-88 NA 200sx, right?), Or the R200 4.11:1 (85-86 turbo 200sx) Or any other 4.11:1 that is easy to swap into my 240Z. If you have any idea whats going on PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!!!. I'm stupmed, and I don't want to pull the diff cover off if I don't have to. Thanks in advance, Matt-
  5. Hello fellow z owners i would like to see how much horse power i would be looking ad with an engine of these specs. >l28 >n42 head, ported polished, Lift(In/Ex): .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300, kameari big valves >n42 block, ross forged 1mm over high comp pistons, 1mm head gasket >kameari high performance oil pump >later electronic distributer from 280zx >ztherapy su carbs >msa 6-1 headers 2.5" exhaust system Engine will also be about a 10.5:1 compression ratio
  6. Hi, I made a video about replacing the half shaft u-joints on my 1972 240z. So without further adieu... <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/u3sU2SCmDk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> If you have and comments I'd like to here, please keep it nice. Matt-
  7. Hey guys, As the title says, I'm looking to buy a first gen S30 Roller. Been HIGHLY interested in getting one over the past few weeks and I plan on it. Preferable minimal to no rust, most/all parts in tact with roller. If you have one with rust and has a few missing parts let me know. I don't discriminate and I sure can put a use to my welders and nibblers.
  8. Hello everyone, doing some major work to my Z that I got out of storage and the center console is shot, I have seen the bmw z3 consoles and they look like they might fit. Anyone try this?
  9. I was having a problem with my driver side blinker and brake light, and because of that I made a video on how to fix it. enjoy!
  10. Let's see if I can move my Hello's as I have found the right section I just recently purchased (two weeks almost) my Sept of 70, 1971 titled 240 Datsun Z. I was going to sell my 06 G35, but had a mix up with a call box pole on the way to wash it before selling it that afternoon last week. Yeah fml right. Before that it was pretty nice though Anyway it came with a ton of goodies and is numbers matching as far as I can tell. Not much rust under the battery box but the floor pans are pretty bad. I have a full gasket kit for the motor and one for the rear diff going on tomorrow as well as the Zparts fan setup and the radiator overflow with a new cap. I already had to put a new water pump on her and have taken the window louvers off as well as the rear bumper idky I do n't like them, but I don't Enough of all that on to the pictures of goodies and such http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/68649_439320729450285_1083960965_n.jpg[img/] I hope these show as there from my fb if not I'll upload them to photobucket and try again I am at a cross roads because I do love these cars and this would be great for an original restoration, but A) its and Autotragic and I want to go fully custom retro new with it. Also I am in Orlando for anyone local to me guys as everyone is local to themselves. ahahah Ps I'll also be on Zcar as well since both of these sites are pretty well versed with knowledge. And of course G35driver. Same name
  11. I have a 73' project car with a bunch of '72 parts that I need to sell. The motor is fresh with a lively cam set up. The suspension is set up for track days with stiff, shorter springs, bushings, camber bushings, KYB shocks, and plenty of spares. Spares include a 5 speed tranny, 3 extra SU carbs, extra interior panels, and so on. 2 Gas tanks, a fresh radiator, spare body panels..... The body will need a paint job as there are panels from the '72 and '73. The frame and body are rust free. The body has some damage to the underside of the right rear quarter panel. I have an extra quarter panel to use for the repair. The bumpers have been rechromed, there are spare replacement stock seats and a replacement crack free dash. The engine is out, the interior removed. The engine is fresh and the body is ready for the paint and body shop. My question to the group is how do I put a price on all this? I need to move it quickly and would appreciate your comments or offers. The car is located in Arlington, TX. Thank you
  12. Hey hybridz i figured since its now getting colder up in mass and i figured theres not much i can do on my Z since im at college, id start my own build thread. I picked up a 75 280z back in may as a birthday present to myself i talked the guy down from $1500 to $800. i bought the car with 80,000 on the body and only minimal surface rust. There was no motor in the car but the guy included a 79 zx that I've ended up adding a turbo to. Along with the motor the only thing that was in the car was seat and dash but when i got back from picking up the car it was packed full with boxes. The day i went to see it The front end was chemically stripped and the car was painted once Home safe and sound With my car home i got to work stripping the body down to bare metal and priming the entire car. There was alittle bit of damage on the drivers rear quarter that i pulled the metal to get closest i could to original and then i used a light coat of body filler to get rid of the small dings. The passenger side was in good shape besides right by the door The front end was in pretty good shape I did a little bit of sound deadening Once i finished most the body work and the massive 280z bumpers gone i got to work on the motor. i was a bit worried going into the motor since it appeared some sort of an oil leak so i did most of the gaskets and got a new cam since mine snapped in half but i fixed that and got some new spark plugs and replace the intake manifold off a turbo motor(not in pics) with injectors etc. besides all the crap in the cylinders they were in great shape way better than i was expecting so i cleaned out the cylinders and block then painted the block i put everything back together and dropped it in i picked up a stock turbo manifold off ebay that had been ceramic coated i also picked up a small t3 garrett turbo that had zero shaft play but i didnt realize the wastgate had been welded so i had to buy a spacer with an external wastegate port but for $80 im not going to complain i traded my old guitar for a set of brand new american racing steelies with adapters Thats pretty much where im at with pictures the car is still model car status right now with me working diligently on trying to get it to start. i have the resistor delete with a 3ohm resistor coil and i have the distributor upgrade (which i think is why it may not be starting). i have Tokico 5022 F-R and im planning to pick up some illuminas after the holidays along with a new starter, alternator, distributor and a carpet kit. ill update whenever some progress is made please leave some feedback/ suggestions Thanks for reading Josh
  13. Hi everyone, Pacific Northwest/Washingtonian here. I bought a '76 280z in the spring of this year. Effectively stock at this point, but I have some pretty ambitious plans for it. I've not posted on here before, but I've been poking around threads for a while so I figured I'd introduce myself and try to establish a base of references I can turn to when I am in need of help. Feel free to message me, and if you're in the PNW I'd be more than happy to meet up and get introduced. I also have a friend who has a '75 280z, and I'm sure he'd want to meet you as well! - Brandon
  14. Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum (probably fairly obvious), but I do have an eBay account and am a member of a couple car groups on Facebook from my area. My eBay feedback is 100% positive and I've made purchases ranging from $10 to $750. I will gladly provide references upon request and do whatever I can to make the transaction more comfortable for you. I have a '76 280z, and I'm looking to get some parts to upgrade it asthetically. Here's what I'm looking for: - Air dam (280 style/no turn signal holes) - 240/early 260 bumpers - Adapter brackets for 240 bumpers on a 280 And they're not high on my priority list but if you have hatch window louvers or a rear spoiler I might be interested in those if they price is right. I'm also hoping to upgrade my exhaust system with headers and a new exhaust system, so the same thing applies for that. You can PM me here and/or email me at hpotency@hotmail.com. - Brandon
  15. Hey guys, I got a 1973 240Z, and I am in need for two complete doors on both sides. Preferably all good condition with keys, don't care on paint or small dents, Electric windows models are a plus. I am located in Vacaville, California 95687. Hoping could find some locals. Send pics and your price, maybe shipping price? Thanks.
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