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Found 340 results

  1. I have a spare L24 out of one of my 73 240's I'm looking to build up a bit. I'm currently attending an automotive school and I have access to pretty well equipped machine shop. My idea here is to find out I can do with my E88 and the L24 bottom end, possibly different pistons if they're necessary. I plan on utilizing ARP hardware throughout the engine. I have a 4bbl and azc intake mani laying around, as well as dual downdraft webers...I'm strongly considering ditching both of these setups to fund a set of triples for this engine. I'm pretty much just looking to see what kind of power and rpm I can get out of my L24, drivability is not a big concern at all. I'm just not quite sure where to start with the top end. I'd like to make power as high in the rpm range as this head and bottom end will allow, and I don't know what cam specs would best suit this engine. I don't know a whole lot about milking power out of these engines, but I'm here to learn. Any input would be greatly appreciated. -Josh
  2. Location: Dayton Ohio LS engine potentially for sale soon. 700r4 Transmission (Complete) $1200 (was $2k) Jegs Performance 700r4 Transmission (works with LS) high speed torque converter. Flywheel MegaSquirt MS3pro plug and play LS wiring harness and ECU. SOLD Hawks LS 240z 1-7/8" long tube headers. SOLD These are the best long tube headers available for the 240z LS combo. Talked with hawks and had these the collectors angled to fit an auto trans! (will also fit manual). Likely the only long tube headers that'll fit an auto trans! Holley ULTRA XP Carb, Intake and MSD ignition $800 (total cost was $1400) (bolted together, but never used) Holley ULTRA XP 750CFM Jegs: 510-0-80803BKX LSx carb'd intake + MSD ignition box Jegs kit: 510-300-132K dual feed fuel line The 240z: $6,000 SOLD Some Photos: https://imgur.com/F0UYyJj <NEW 5/1 exterior https://imgur.com/vCrYBpy <NEW 5/1 rear underside https://imgur.com/iRfImPN <NEW 5/1 front wheel https://imgur.com/9vmuuca <NEW 5/1 rear wheel https://imgur.com/J73BiMQ <NEW 5/1 hatch floor https://imgur.com/7ifnO56 <NEW 5/1 hatch area/floor https://imgur.com/rpiPVyM <NEW 5/1 hatch area https://imgur.com/3B4Be8p <NEW 4/28 dash with speedhut speedo https://imgur.com/HPFDhPv <NEW 5/1 dash area (mind the dust) https://imgur.com/OLKoOXj <NEW 5/1 suspension https://imgur.com/JcdBphQ <engine bay photo https://imgur.com/8gYOIWM <exterior https://imgur.com/d3HMGvw <currently in the garage https://imgur.com/EITVYbh <under side floor passenger https://imgur.com/tFPdcCG <under side floor driver side https://imgur.com/nxPbw8U <exterior with air dam up (this photo is older, but nothing has changed) 1971 Datsun 240z. INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING Hoke Performance LS motor swap mount kit. -- for auto or manual trans. 280zx brake booster wilwood master cyl. new classictube.com brake lines front to back stainless braided fuel lines, aeromotive regulator Tanks Inc. poly fuel tank, and fuel pump, Radiator: champion 3 row + custom an fittings deka etx20l battery with braille battery bracket Speedhut GPS speedometer, with high beam and turn signal markers (photo here) speedhut tach and alternator gauge and gauge faces, Spare dash harness included. Marugen Shoukai Flares (best quality I could obtain) Wheels: Rota RB-R 17x9" and 17x9.5" Hyper Black with Polished Lip. Tires: Cooper RS3-S 245/17 and 275/40/17 I've cut out the rust and welded in new metal at doglegs, battery tray, and hatch/tail light area, it really just needs painted. Engine bay painted in bmw deep sea blue. Engine bay/triangulated strut bracing added from firewall to struts. Spare tire well removed (for new fuel tank) and custom bead rolled sheetmetal replaced it. triangular bracing at rear struts bad dog frame rails (not installed) Interior is currently stripped, but stored in garage. Most carpet was thrown out--Its cheap and easy to replace.xenon flex urethane air dam camaro fender Vents behind rear tires: (see bjhines car for reference) hatch panel z source Arizona
  3. I have purchased the vintage air 2 for my 70 to 240 Z I was hoping someone knows the specs/measurements for the brackets to install the unit under the dashboard I cannot weld so I’m trying to just put together steel brackets and put them together to fit but I could use some help with how far up and down place it in side to side so I’m not spending an arm and a leg on the brackets. Or if anyone has got extra ones welded I’m willing to purchase them ?😀
  4. Hi peeps I have an 72 240z and I have purchased an Vintage air Gen 2 air conditioning system, but I do no have the bracket that will hold the condenser in place that will also give it tension! So I am hoping someone can give me a path on where I can purchase a reasonably priced bracket for this system?
  5. Hello Everyone, I bought a 1971 Datsun 240z, about 2 years ago as my first project car. The more I started to dig into the car, the more I wanted to repair and improve it. Initially I was just planning on getting it running and using it while slowly upgrading and repairing it. I ended up tearing it down to the bare chassis, mounting it on a rotisserie and media blasting it. After I media blasted it, I decided to replace the floors and upgrade the frame rails with baddog frame rails. I sat down and thought about what I wanted the car to be and I came up with a ton of ideas, but ended up narrowing it down into one vision. The vision is this(nicknamed ProjectWhiteNoiseZ): My vision is inspired by modern Nissan Nismo styling, but it will be powered by a 2JZ-GTE with a cd009 transmission. I have gone through every part and media blasted and powder coated it or upgraded it with something better. Doing all of this, inspired my brother to buy a crashed 2008 Mustang GT and the current plan is to complete our cars by August/September '18. I live in Colorado and he lives in Pennsylvania, so I'll be road tripping the 240z 1700miles each way when complete to meet him at a track in Pennsylvania and race. If you're interested to see the work and follow our journey to complete our cars over the next few months, we have a YouTube channel, Facebook, and Instagram where we're documenting our builds. Any comments on suggestions for YouTube video improvements are appreciated. We will answer any questions you have. YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJt7v6VEHBqNPweO_cZ1guw PBB Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectbuildbrothers/ PWNZ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectwhitenoisez/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ProjectBuildBrothers/
  6. Need a 1973 headlight combo switch, im in nj so can drive or factor that for shipping Mine crapped out, i tried cleaning that little box with the tabs that controls the headlights and tail lights but the issues was with those little caps that cover the springs in the mechanism they were totally messed up and that whole box is kind of dead.... looking for either entire assembly or just the little headlight box with the rocker switches and those 2 springs with the little caps. Attached a pic of the box and the little caps over the springs, let me know what you have! car isnt really entirely drivable with out this! thank you!
  7. Hi I am wondering if anyone would be willing to do a purchase inspection, or know someone that does them in Bakersfield. Also I would like to know the average cost of a PPI. Thanks
  8. Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!
  9. I have a 1970 240z. I aquired a 1973 240z front bumper that has a different setup/bracket. I do not have the arm/rod brackets for the 73 or the "L" brackets for the 70. What do i need to install it on the 70 z? If i buy the early L brackets will they work or do i need to remove the U shape bracket (that looks like the rear) that is bolted inside the bumper and utilize or drill a new hole on the bumper? If the L bracket will work, i am willing to buy them, but didnt want to until i consulted with someone who is more knowlegeable on the issue. Picture: Early on top, 73 on bottom. I have the bottom and the left bolt seems to line up and so does the hole on the bumper behind the bracket stud according to the picture but i have not done any measuring. NOTE: I will also move the guard to a more outer position since the early z's had the guard next to the light bucket and the 73's had them about 4 inches on each side closer to center. In addition, i will have to find an overider that belongs to the early z. the 73 is a shorter bar and will not work.
  10. After finally taking delivery of my 1972 240z from America, it's now appropriate to start a build thread! After being contacted by a fellow forum member with an unfinished project on his hands, money was sent over the interwebs and a few months later, the car arrived in the UK ready for collection. The car was a half finished RB26 swapped top end track car. It stood with the long block sat in the car, and a full Arizona Z Car track package installed. The underside of the car had been shotblasted & a half cage welded in. Most Z parts were included, however would need restoring/replacnig and generally rebuilding. The car from the seller Unknowing what to expect, we turned up with a trailer and loaded her on. The car was pretty much as expected, other than the weather had taken its toll and unforunately most untreated surfaces had succumed to quite a bit of surface rust. It looked a bit sorry for itself, but a quick test with some scotchbright does indicate its very light surface rust only and should come off without too much effort. There was also no steering rack connected which made loading the interesting! The bonnet (hood), windscreen (windshield) and boot lid (trunk/tail gate?) were all strapped down with duct tape which we didn't trust to hold on the motorway. This was not your knock-off chinese crap, obviously soviet-spec adhesives were used in this stuff as it kindly ripped off a majority of the paint when removed! Tucked up in the garage after a long day The intent for this car will be a track/race orientated build whilst retaining road legal status. Wish me luck
  11. Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
  12. Hey everyone, Any chance of finding a RHD padel box (actually i need 5!) For a 1973 240Z ?
  13. Hi everyone, I've been having some issues with my door that I'm trying to fix but frankly I need some help with what I can actually do to fix it. I made a video showing and telling the issues I have: My hope was some folks on here could watch it and give me some guidance as to what exactly is wrong and how to fix it. Thanks, - Pac Man
  14. Anybody out there have this piece or a parts car they are willing to hack up? I need the lower right corner of the bumper/rear valance area from just under the right taillight with a bit of the rear right quarter panel. My car is a '73 but anything '70-'78 would probably work just fine. See pics for damaged area and what I would like to replace. I'm located in central California near Fresno. Hit me up with a price + shipping. Thanks and happy Z-ing.
  15. Anyone in DFW know where I can find a driver side door for a 71 240z? I'm not finding any luck on craigslist and the original Z junk yard seems to no longer have Z's?
  16. Hello fellow HybridZers, I'm looking for a whale tail for the S30s, hopefully in better condition than not. Willing to pay shipping from anywhere in the US, I am located in 92691. My phone is the best way to reach me, text or call. 949-939-7573. Thank you for your help in advance!
  17. I've embarked on the installation of a Vintage Air evaporator, using John's Cars compressor and mounting, and a stock copper condenser out of a 280Z. I like the condenser because it is a perfect fit.. bolts in with existing bolt holes and the high and low pressure line align with the radiator mount. This unit has been stored for a number of years with duct tape covering the orifices of both lines. The lines appear to be 37 degree cone and very similar to either jic or an fittings. Does any know what standard fitting was used on 280z condensers? I need to match my condenser (37 degree or so cone) to the"O" ring fittings of the compressor and evaporator unit. Does anyone know of any adapter that might make the transference. Finally, local a/c guys advise me to ditch the 280Z condenser in favor of a newer after market AL unit with "O" ringed fittings. The reasons they give are: 1. the high and low pressure fitting, being a flare of some degree, are inadequate and will leak refrigerant; that the copper construction does not transfer heat as well as AL, and that my 280Z condenser is contaminated by the oil that was used in the '70s and can not be adequately cleaned or used with the current refrigerants. So can anyone tell me: 1. What standard are my condenser's fittings? Are they JIC? 2. Are the newer refrigerants (134a ?) incompatible with flare fittings? 3. Is oil contamination a real problem or is it something that can be cleaned up by any radiator shop? I've read Tony's discussion of CU versus AL and condenser sizing, so I don't see the construction or size to be a problem. thanks,
  18. MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
  19. Budget is 15k tops currently in Washington state don't mind shipping the car I'm okay with working on the interior but would like a clean swap with the mechanical work somewhat done.
  20. Looking for a clutch pedal for an s30. I think they are all the same. Thank you!
  21. I need some help. I purchased a Skillard s30 splitter for type 1 air dam and can't seem to install it. Here's my combo: 73 240z MSA urethane air dam - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1411 Skilard Splitter - https://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-front-lip-splitter the problem? The bolts that should go into the core support aren't the right size The sway bar is in the way The biggest problem, the splitter wont even mount up flush onto the core support, its off by many inches The air dam appears to be way lower that those of the pictures I've seen, so when i pull up the splutter to the bottom of the air dam, it doesn't come up to the core support to allow it to mount up. One thing I know will get in my way - the previous owner hacked in some radiator supports that are lower than the stock core support - so I'll have to make some adjustment there. Does anyone have pictures of the core support and the mounting holes I should be using? Does this air dam even work with the splitter? Did i completely F it up by buying two incompatible parts? I'll try and take some pictures but without more hands it'll be hard to show the gap... Helps!!!
  22. What options is out there for racing,that you guys have experience with? I am looking at these http://en.intraxracing.nl/merken/datsun/datsun-240z-260z-280z-(nissan-fairlady-z)/1k2-rally-tarmac/ i have no problem welding or fabrication
  23. Picked up this non-running '73 240Z in Wisconsin, it came with an R200 (which I had planned to use, but am now going Ford IRS 8.8) and a mess of other stock parts. It looked to be perfect for what I was building and after media blast it's quite solid other than floorboards so here we go. Parts already here -LS3 TR6060 dropout from a 2010 Camaro w/ 30k miles (lookup Midway Mustang Dewitt IA) -CXRacing LS swap kit w/ headers and y pipe -CXRacing Front LCAs and TC rods -CXRacing adjustable coilovers -T3 Rear LCAs -Silvermine billet front 5 lug hubs -Silvermine front wilwood brake kit -Zedd FIndings Floorboards Parts to order -T3 rear backing plates -T3 rear strut tubes -Ford Explorer 8.8 Diff -Z32 rear 5 lug hubs and brakes -Wheels/Tires, S71B ~17x11 (5.5 backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.9 backspace). 315/35R17, 275/40R17 -Flares (TBD, maybe SSWorxs???) My rear end will largely be based on Sunny Z's build. Digging through the wheel forums it looks like 5.5" backspace on the rear is doable, any advice here on whether 5.5 is too much? The T3 plates should put the wheel in the stock location.
  24. The following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and DO NOT include shipping prices. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Will get you a quote once you let me know where the items are shipping to (I can usually ship pretty cheap from work). Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dAuXnCWC6Tf1iL6HcD1UY-jAl-Lmutxj?usp=sharing Interior Fresh Air Intake Vents (2x Left side and 1x Right side) $10 each Dash Defrost/Vent Set (Everything shown in the pictures) $25 Engine Bay fresh air vent (Left Side) $10 Heater Fan $15 Heater Wiring Harness $15 Heater Controls $20 for the one without knobs, $30 for the one with knobs Heater Control Panels (Both are cracked on top, one on the bottom) $25 each I should have more 240z and 280zx items posted shortly. Chris
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