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Showing results for tags '240z'.
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Hi I am wondering if anyone would be willing to do a purchase inspection, or know someone that does them in Bakersfield. Also I would like to know the average cost of a PPI. Thanks
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Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!
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I have a 1970 240z. I aquired a 1973 240z front bumper that has a different setup/bracket. I do not have the arm/rod brackets for the 73 or the "L" brackets for the 70. What do i need to install it on the 70 z? If i buy the early L brackets will they work or do i need to remove the U shape bracket (that looks like the rear) that is bolted inside the bumper and utilize or drill a new hole on the bumper? If the L bracket will work, i am willing to buy them, but didnt want to until i consulted with someone who is more knowlegeable on the issue. Picture: Early on top, 73 on bottom. I have the bottom and the left bolt seems to line up and so does the hole on the bumper behind the bracket stud according to the picture but i have not done any measuring. NOTE: I will also move the guard to a more outer position since the early z's had the guard next to the light bucket and the 73's had them about 4 inches on each side closer to center. In addition, i will have to find an overider that belongs to the early z. the 73 is a shorter bar and will not work.
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After finally taking delivery of my 1972 240z from America, it's now appropriate to start a build thread! After being contacted by a fellow forum member with an unfinished project on his hands, money was sent over the interwebs and a few months later, the car arrived in the UK ready for collection. The car was a half finished RB26 swapped top end track car. It stood with the long block sat in the car, and a full Arizona Z Car track package installed. The underside of the car had been shotblasted & a half cage welded in. Most Z parts were included, however would need restoring/replacnig and generally rebuilding. The car from the seller Unknowing what to expect, we turned up with a trailer and loaded her on. The car was pretty much as expected, other than the weather had taken its toll and unforunately most untreated surfaces had succumed to quite a bit of surface rust. It looked a bit sorry for itself, but a quick test with some scotchbright does indicate its very light surface rust only and should come off without too much effort. There was also no steering rack connected which made loading the interesting! The bonnet (hood), windscreen (windshield) and boot lid (trunk/tail gate?) were all strapped down with duct tape which we didn't trust to hold on the motorway. This was not your knock-off chinese crap, obviously soviet-spec adhesives were used in this stuff as it kindly ripped off a majority of the paint when removed! Tucked up in the garage after a long day The intent for this car will be a track/race orientated build whilst retaining road legal status. Wish me luck
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Hey everyone, Any chance of finding a RHD padel box (actually i need 5!) For a 1973 240Z ?
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Hi everyone, I've been having some issues with my door that I'm trying to fix but frankly I need some help with what I can actually do to fix it. I made a video showing and telling the issues I have: My hope was some folks on here could watch it and give me some guidance as to what exactly is wrong and how to fix it. Thanks, - Pac Man
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Anybody out there have this piece or a parts car they are willing to hack up? I need the lower right corner of the bumper/rear valance area from just under the right taillight with a bit of the rear right quarter panel. My car is a '73 but anything '70-'78 would probably work just fine. See pics for damaged area and what I would like to replace. I'm located in central California near Fresno. Hit me up with a price + shipping. Thanks and happy Z-ing.
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Anyone in DFW know where I can find a driver side door for a 71 240z? I'm not finding any luck on craigslist and the original Z junk yard seems to no longer have Z's?
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Hello fellow HybridZers, I'm looking for a whale tail for the S30s, hopefully in better condition than not. Willing to pay shipping from anywhere in the US, I am located in 92691. My phone is the best way to reach me, text or call. 949-939-7573. Thank you for your help in advance!
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I've embarked on the installation of a Vintage Air evaporator, using John's Cars compressor and mounting, and a stock copper condenser out of a 280Z. I like the condenser because it is a perfect fit.. bolts in with existing bolt holes and the high and low pressure line align with the radiator mount. This unit has been stored for a number of years with duct tape covering the orifices of both lines. The lines appear to be 37 degree cone and very similar to either jic or an fittings. Does any know what standard fitting was used on 280z condensers? I need to match my condenser (37 degree or so cone) to the"O" ring fittings of the compressor and evaporator unit. Does anyone know of any adapter that might make the transference. Finally, local a/c guys advise me to ditch the 280Z condenser in favor of a newer after market AL unit with "O" ringed fittings. The reasons they give are: 1. the high and low pressure fitting, being a flare of some degree, are inadequate and will leak refrigerant; that the copper construction does not transfer heat as well as AL, and that my 280Z condenser is contaminated by the oil that was used in the '70s and can not be adequately cleaned or used with the current refrigerants. So can anyone tell me: 1. What standard are my condenser's fittings? Are they JIC? 2. Are the newer refrigerants (134a ?) incompatible with flare fittings? 3. Is oil contamination a real problem or is it something that can be cleaned up by any radiator shop? I've read Tony's discussion of CU versus AL and condenser sizing, so I don't see the construction or size to be a problem. thanks,
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- air conditioning
- jic fitting
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MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
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Budget is 15k tops currently in Washington state don't mind shipping the car I'm okay with working on the interior but would like a clean swap with the mechanical work somewhat done.
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Looking for a clutch pedal for an s30. I think they are all the same. Thank you!
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I need some help. I purchased a Skillard s30 splitter for type 1 air dam and can't seem to install it. Here's my combo: 73 240z MSA urethane air dam - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1411 Skilard Splitter - https://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-front-lip-splitter the problem? The bolts that should go into the core support aren't the right size The sway bar is in the way The biggest problem, the splitter wont even mount up flush onto the core support, its off by many inches The air dam appears to be way lower that those of the pictures I've seen, so when i pull up the splutter to the bottom of the air dam, it doesn't come up to the core support to allow it to mount up. One thing I know will get in my way - the previous owner hacked in some radiator supports that are lower than the stock core support - so I'll have to make some adjustment there. Does anyone have pictures of the core support and the mounting holes I should be using? Does this air dam even work with the splitter? Did i completely F it up by buying two incompatible parts? I'll try and take some pictures but without more hands it'll be hard to show the gap... Helps!!!
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Picked up this non-running '73 240Z in Wisconsin, it came with an R200 (which I had planned to use, but am now going Ford IRS 8.8) and a mess of other stock parts. It looked to be perfect for what I was building and after media blast it's quite solid other than floorboards so here we go. Parts already here -LS3 TR6060 dropout from a 2010 Camaro w/ 30k miles (lookup Midway Mustang Dewitt IA) -CXRacing LS swap kit w/ headers and y pipe -CXRacing Front LCAs and TC rods -CXRacing adjustable coilovers -T3 Rear LCAs -Silvermine billet front 5 lug hubs -Silvermine front wilwood brake kit -Zedd FIndings Floorboards Parts to order -T3 rear backing plates -T3 rear strut tubes -Ford Explorer 8.8 Diff -Z32 rear 5 lug hubs and brakes -Wheels/Tires, S71B ~17x11 (5.5 backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.9 backspace). 315/35R17, 275/40R17 -Flares (TBD, maybe SSWorxs???) My rear end will largely be based on Sunny Z's build. Digging through the wheel forums it looks like 5.5" backspace on the rear is doable, any advice here on whether 5.5 is too much? The T3 plates should put the wheel in the stock location.
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Hi all, So I recently bought a toggle panel/push button start combo (here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYRFLHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Pretty good build quality for the price, but I am rather uneducated when it comes to wiring. My goal is to be able to flip the first red switch and have that be my ACC power switch, then push the start button and off I go. I ripped out the old harness entirely and have rewired the car with an EZ wiring 21 circuit kit. Currently, It's getting power to the button but it's not cranking over anything. Also, when I turn the ACC switch the power goes through to the button, but even when I turn off the switch the current continues to flow through, I'm assuming the relay is set up incorrectly. After having that problem I did some research and drew up this diagram of what I think would be what I want, but in the diagram, I have the ACC toggle on its own, whereas I want it to be in line with the power to the button if possible. The Toggles are 3 prong units, so I think it's possible? I am hoping somebody can look this over and give me some practical advice and tell me if I'm close, and if not, what I need to change up! Thanks in advance. Here are the photos/
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I currently have a 240z with a chevy small block installed but am planning on upgrading to an ls3. The car has upgraded suspension but when going on the freeway the car drifts side to side with no steering input and I think this may be do to the weak chassis. Would it be worth it To sell the car and upgrade to a 280z which I have heard has a stiffer chassis and do the engine swap into that car instead of the 240z?
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From the album: New Parts
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From the album: New Parts
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- raybrig
- headlights
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From the album: New Parts
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Hey there, My name actually is Wesley despite my username, I've loved the Z series for an underwhelming 10 or so years. I'm new to the forum and I've dabbled in Classic Z Car forums for lotsa stock parts and rebuild resourcing. Recently I've been hunting and comparing prices on an RB25DET Series 2 (eng and trans) for my '72 240z who is lacking a working heart. I was recommend to this forum at a car event in Toronto, supposedly this is the hot spot for resto-mod and aftermarket Z builds! I don't believe this is the correct place for an introduction so i'll ask away. Has anyone purchased a used engine from a Toronto locale engine store, and what were your thoughts on service and product reliability? Additionally I am wondering if anyone has had good experiences with overseas JDM imports. I'm mostly concerned with accuracy of described product, product knowledge, and some form of warranty or guarantee. I've seen a 30-day limited warranty everywhere I've visited, and to be quite honest I will likely take the whole month to do the swap. That said, I may not be able to run the engine for testing before my warranty's up! Thanks so much for the read, and a quick thanks to every poster in the RB series forum. SO MUCH INFORMATION Wes
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- rb25
- engine swap
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I have a 240z with rebuilt E88 head, rebuilt dome top su carbs and I just went from stock manifold with 2.5” exhaust pipe and cherry bomb muffler to a header. I kept the pipe and muffler as the weren’t stock anyway, I just added a flexible connection from the collector to the existing exhaust pipe. Actually now I wish I didn’t do this modification. It’s really noisy and I’m not sure that moving away from the OEM cast iron exhaust manifold was a good idea. It seemed to do the job... any comment on the performance improvements or lack there of? One other point - within 6 months I had a fuel leak right over the header pipes even with all new fuel lines. It totally cooked the new fuel lines from the float bowls to the jets. They were cracking and perished. Dangerous. I have since replaced the SU carb fuel lines with correct parts, and modified the heat shield with an additional aluminum plate which sits under the fuel hoses/jets. I also added some heat wrapping to the fuel lines. Makes tuning more of a chore, but gives me peace of mind. Anyone have a solution to the header noise issue? Add a resonator? Change the muffler to a better one? I can tig/mig weld so would buy parts online and do the install myself. I’m not a boy racer (nearly 60) and it sounds like an F1 car now when I put my foot down. Yeah, I know- some of you would think that was a ‘bonus’. Richard
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Sakura Garage is pleased to announce the availability of the Stance USA fully adjustable coilover set for the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z. See our website: http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension for order information. - We use Stance USA Super Sport inverted struts. (No hood clearance issues) - Your choice of spring rates. - Swift Springs are also available as an option - Weld-on adapters included - with proper size and length for 240Z or 280Z strut configuration. Our kit allows a wide ride-height adjustment range** - from stock ride height to - well - dirt-nasty-low... We've also developed a bolt-on Camber Plate* for use with the Stance USA coilovers. Our camber plates allow the maximum possible adjustment range in an S30 strut tower! Included templates for drilling and cutting strut towers Drilling template uses stock top hat holes for proper alignment every time Cutting template assures you remove only what's needed to install camber plate Our stainless steel top plate (vanity plate) gives every installation a professional look Please note - this coilover kit requires: - cutting your stock strut tubes - welding the threaded adapters to your stock suspension - the bolt-on camber plates require cutting some material from your strut tower $1595 + shipping with camber plates $1295 + shipping without camber plates (modification must be done to stock top hat) * The camber plate is bolt-on but still requires some cutting of the strut towers to allow for installation of the camber plate and movement of the pillow ball for camber adjustment. ** Our primary focus is to give you a high-quality upgrade with full adjustability to give you maximum suspension performance for your dollar. But if your primary focus is low - you got it...
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Did some digging around, and I'm going to get an adapter set made to adapt the 240z spindles to s550 disc brake mounting points. This are massive brakes that sell for pennies on the dollar. Good for the guys with 800 hp ls v8s and 2jz setups. Going to use 65 mustang hubs which have the same A2 and A6 inner and outer bearings as the 240z spindles. Still got some fitting to do, more to come later. We are talking 4 piston 14 inch brakes for under $200 sometimes. Or 15 inch monster 6 piston brembos setup if your heart desires. Anyways, let me know if anyone would be interested, I'll be building the setup for my own 240z, but if 5 or 6 people want some, I will make extras. I did something similar for 1968 dodge chargers and people love them. Made an adapter that allowed use of 2014 mustang brakes on drum hubs and people have been buying and using them with great results, so I'm not new to designing something that works and offering it to people. I'll post pictures as I make progress. Currently dealing with a child who has a fatal heart defect so this may take a few months, but this is something I'm seriously designing right now to go along with the super 8.8 rear irs conversion I'm developing... The idea is to have a balanced braking system off a 2015 mustang complete, front and rear, no mismatch.