Jump to content
HybridZ

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '240z'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

There are no results to display.

Forums

  • Technical
    • FAQs
    • Model Specific
    • V8 Z Forums
    • 6 Cylinder Z Forums
    • Other Engines
    • Engine Components
    • Body Kits & Paint
    • Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
    • Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
    • Drivetrain
    • Fabrication / Welding
    • Interior
    • Miscellaneous Tech
    • Trouble Shooting / General Engine
  • General
    • Announcements
    • Non Tech Board
    • New Members Forum
    • Members Projects
    • Motorsports / Events
    • Buy / Sell / Trade
    • Group Buys
    • Vendor's Forum
    • Links
    • Site Support
    • Area 51
    • The Tool Shed

Blogs

  • Blog 7794
  • Blog 7796
  • Blog 7797
  • Blog 7801
  • Blog 7810
  • Blog 7821
  • Blog 7850
  • Blog 7876
  • Blog 7900
  • Blog 7903
  • Blog 7918
  • Blog 7945
  • Blog 7995
  • Blog 8097
  • Blog 8113
  • Blog 8124
  • Blog 8199
  • Blog 8217
  • Blog 8223
  • Blog 8239
  • Blog 8335
  • Blog 8424
  • Blog 8478
  • Blog 8501
  • Blog 8644
  • Blog 8751
  • Blog 8853
  • Blog 9074
  • Blog 9088
  • Blog 9095
  • Blog 9152
  • Blog 10389
  • Blog 10579
  • Blog 10681
  • Blog 10929
  • Blog 10956
  • Blog 11195
  • Blog 11737
  • Blog 11794
  • Blog 11853
  • Blog 12120
  • Blog 12435
  • Blog 12884
  • Blog 13129
  • Blog 13159
  • Blog 13200
  • Blog 13472
  • Blog 13567
  • Blog 13587
  • Blog 14207
  • Blog 14439
  • Blog 14625
  • Blog 14703
  • Blog 14909
  • Blog 14919
  • Blog 14975
  • Head Gasket for 3.1 liter stroker engine
  • Blog 15298
  • Blog 15393
  • Blog 15520
  • Blog 15602
  • Blog 15654
  • Blog 15717
  • Blog 15865
  • Blog 16224
  • Blog 16227
  • Blog 16485
  • Blog 16662
  • Blog 16809
  • Blog 16878
  • Blog 16923
  • Blog 17059
  • Blog 17103
  • Blog 17116
  • Blog 17333
  • Blog 17402
  • Blog 17506
  • Blog 18026
  • Blog 18084
  • Blog 18466
  • Blog 18819
  • Blog 19188
  • Blog 19475
  • Blog 19671
  • Blog 19685
  • Blog 20165
  • Blog 20200
  • Blog 20239
  • Blog 20330
  • Blog 20345
  • Blog 20475
  • Blog 20568
  • Blog 20611
  • Blog 20767
  • Blog 20885
  • Blog 21113
  • Blog 21316
  • Blog 21355
  • Blog 21400
  • Blog 21541
  • Blog 21630
  • Blog 21672
  • Blog 21712
  • Blog 21925
  • Blog 21950
  • Blog 22036
  • Blog 22272
  • Blog 22312
  • Blog 22331
  • Blog 23034
  • Blog 23042
  • Blog 23220
  • Blog 23246
  • Blog 23322
  • Blog 23406
  • Blog 23570
  • Blog 23700
  • Blog 23718
  • Blog 23737
  • Blog 23762
  • Blog 23794
  • Blog 23917
  • Blog 23956
  • Blog 23959
  • Blog 24064
  • Blog 24131
  • Blog 24139
  • Blog 24205
  • Blog 24221
  • Blog 24240
  • Blog 24430
  • Blog 24435
  • Blog 24495
  • Blog 24576
  • Blog 24643
  • Blog 24722
  • Blog 24770
  • Blog 24833
  • Blog 24848
  • Blog 24853
  • Blog 24872
  • Blog 25030
  • Blog 25248
  • Blog 25289
  • Blog 25373
  • Blog 25396
  • Blog 25527
  • Blog 25674
  • Blog 25853
  • Blog 25886
  • Blog 25922
  • Blog 25986
  • Blog 26129
  • Blog 26181
  • Blog 26217
  • Blog 26240
  • Blog 26247
  • Blog 26299
  • Blog 26401
  • Blog 26440
  • Blog 26559
  • Blog 26735
  • Blog 26736
  • Blog 26831
  • Blog 26844
  • Blog 26883
  • Blog 26884
  • Blog 27002
  • Blog 27028
  • Blog 27169
  • Blog 27260
  • Blog 27267
  • Blog 27307
  • Blog 27345
  • Blog 27400
  • Blog 27428
  • Blog 27452
  • Blog 27558
  • Blog 27622
  • Blog 27707
  • Blog 27735
  • Blog 27877
  • Blog 28049
  • Blog 28070
  • Blog 28199
  • Blog 28214
  • Blog 28234
  • Blog 28308
  • Blog 28320
  • Blog 28475
  • Blog 28476
  • Blog 28494
  • Blog 28657
  • Blog 28671
  • Blog 28814
  • Blog 28880
  • Blog 28923
  • Blog 28943
  • Blog 28945
  • Blog 28982
  • Blog 28993
  • Blog 29008
  • Blog 29036
  • Blog 29168
  • Blog 29412
  • Blog 29467
  • Blog 29618
  • Blog 29710
  • Blog 29759
  • Blog 29832
  • Blog 29868
  • Blog 29922
  • Blog 29950
  • Blog 30009
  • Blog 30027
  • Blog 30175
  • Blog 30182
  • Blog 30287
  • Blog 30302
  • Blog 30339
  • Blog 30443
  • Blog 30461
  • Blog 30474
  • Blog 30517
  • Blog 30556
  • Blog 30654
  • Blog 30729
  • Blog 30758
  • Blog 30773
  • Blog 30842
  • Blog 30872
  • Blog 30886
  • Blog 30989
  • Blog 31027
  • Blog 31048
  • Blog 31073
  • Blog 31109
  • Blog 31116
  • Blog 31138
  • Blog 31251
  • Blog 31307
  • Blog 31343
  • Blog 31378
  • Blog 31393
  • Blog 31432
  • Blog 31495
  • Blog 31507
  • Blog 31592
  • Blog 31626
  • Blog 31643
  • Blog 31692
  • Blog 31717
  • Blog 31760
  • Blog 31768
  • Blog 31777
  • Blog 31826
  • Blog 31851
  • Blog 31877
  • Blog 31907
  • Blog 31942
  • Blog 32009
  • Blog 32051
  • Blog 32073
  • Blog 32094
  • Blog 32111
  • Blog 32142
  • Blog 32169
  • Blog 32198
  • Blog 32250
  • Blog 32256
  • Blog 32259
  • Blog 32262
  • Blog 32291
  • Blog 32371
  • Blog 32417
  • Blog 32463
  • Blog 32515
  • Blog 32519
  • Blog 32562
  • Blog 32678
  • Blog 32695
  • Blog 32725
  • Blog 32981
  • Blog 33294
  • Blog 33517
  • Blog 33612
  • Blog 33734
  • Blog 33993
  • Blog 34018
  • Blog 34140
  • Blog 34452
  • Blog 34586
  • Blog 34855
  • Blog 35117
  • Blog 35378
  • Blog 35742
  • Blog 35956
  • Blog 36022
  • Blog 36030
  • Blog 36711
  • Blog 36997
  • Blog 37069
  • Blog 37070
  • Blog 37103
  • Blog 37166
  • Blog 37257
  • Blog 37645
  • Blog 37818
  • Blog 37954
  • Blog 38369
  • Blog 38569
  • Blog 38681
  • Blog 38923
  • Blog 38945
  • Blog 39122
  • Blog 39441
  • Blog 39494
  • Blog 39529
  • Blog 39575
  • PSL_240z's Blog
  • Phlebmaster's Blog
  • dhp123166's Blog
  • miguel240zcruz's Blog
  • dsalni's Blog
  • dsalni's Blog
  • beon's Blog

Categories

  • Configuration File Sharing
  • Drawing Files, Templates
  • Manuals, Diagrams, Guides
  • Software, Calculators
  • Other misc files

Categories

  • Z Videos
  • Member Videos
  • Road Racing & Autocross
  • Drag Racing
  • Burnouts and Drifting
  • Crash and Burn
  • Dyno Runs
  • Events
  • Babes
  • Humor
  • Miscellaneous

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 338 results

  1. https://youtu.be/30nyGWq4mJQ Here is one of the runs. Got 3rd! Not bad on 6 year old dry rotted tires.
  2. I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.
  3. Been working on power steering. I decided on a 2004 Subaru WRX steering rack. I did some measuring to make sure everything would work. First I needed to figure out how much to cut off the steering rod. In steering, the pivots are the key to getting it to handle correctly. The stock pivots on the 240z steering rack is 616mm. The WRX rack is about 634mm. Some individuals use older Celica inner tie rods with the stock Subi outers to get everything to fit, but my rack is the "late" Subi rack. The threads are larger, M16 x 1.5, on the "late" Subi rack and the Celica rods didn't fit. I did some online research and found that 2000 Hyundai Sonata rods had the correct length and thread. The added bonus is that the inside of the Hyundai rods are vented and stepped to allow for more steering angle without shortening the outer tube of the steering rack. The step did have a lip that had to be ground down though. The step on the Hyundai rod is 5mm which adds 10mm on the travel on the steering. So, while I cut 18mm of the rod, it reduced the travel by 8mm. Stock 240z travel is 120mm, Subi is 132mm. Now the travel is around 124mm because the measurements are not perfect. So I added a little travel, hopefully it doesn't bind the steering knuckles. Here is a picture comparing the shortened Subi rod vs. the 240z rack. The final measurement was 576mm for the steering rod. Then I mounted the subframe on the engine to check clearances . In this swap, the engine mount perch has to be clearanced to make room for the angle of the Subi steering shaft. Also, the subframe has to be clearanced for the rotary valve and lines. Also checked the clearances with the A/C compressor mounted and to plan the pressure line. I cut the end of the steering shaft off to weld the Subi U-joint to the 240z steering shaft. I just shaved the weld and pulled the shaft out the Subi joint and the 240z shaft diameter was exactly the correct diameter to push inside and weld. I think it looks better that the stock Nissan weld, and that lasted 45 years. Hope I didn't cook the grease out of the joint when I welded it. There wasn't much smoke, so I think I am good. The stock Subaru rod ends ended up only having about 12mm of thread engagement when the alignment was roughed in and I wanted more. I did some research and figured out that 2003-2009 Mazda 6 tie rod ends are 7mm longer than the WRX ends. They are curve and have a left and right though. The taper on the stud seemed to match the original Datsun rods as well. Now I have plenty of thread engagement. I used compression fittings to move the hydraulic lines to where they would fit around the subframe. They worked out well and only one needed to be tightened up. They are 1/4 inch fittings. This is how much I had to cut out of the subframe. Metal was added to strengthen the subframe. If the engine mount becomes a problem, then I will gusset it. I used the RB25 (R33 non HICAS) pump, which is the same as most 240sx pumps. I built the pressure line out of -6AN Fragola PTFE hose with a M16 x 1.5 banjo metric adapter and the M14 x 1.5 power steering fitting for the rack. I did kinda skimp on the reservoir though and will switch it with an OEM style later. I used a 120 degree end on the rack side so it will clear the A/C pump later. Should have used a 150 degree though. The feel is great and feels about as a power steering car should. I dont have too many bumpy roads around here, so I cant fully test for bump steer. Havent felt any yet and we do have some railroad crossings that I have tried. There arent too many curvy roads either, but parking lots seem to be way more tolerable. The steering ratio seemed to stay about 2.7 and without a degree wheel to measure it, will stay "about". If there are any questions, let me know and I will ad them in the first post to help keep everything together.
  4. Hello, My name is Joey, and I am looking to start a dream project. Thing's I care about: -Little to NO rust -Title/Paperwork Thing's I don't care about: -Engine Please contact my gmail @joepez56 or via text @773-719-9133 (Please do not abuse my info, I only am giving it because I will resond faster to those)
  5. Zcardepot.com has the tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/tools/spindle-pin-removal-tool-240z-260z-280z.html
  6. Hey, i was planning on getting Work Equip's 03 replicas for my Z -Cosmo Racing Coilovers (already installed) -15x8 et0 FRONT (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) -15x9 et0 REAR (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) I'm planning to buy them and go with the 205/50/15 or the 225/50/15 to have some stretch and fit under my stock fenders, i'm currently on Cosmo Racing Coilover's for s30 that they can be dropped on 3'' Let me know your answers and if you have pics it would be better.
  7. I've had a few z's in the past and always fixed them up, made them run and look nice and had to eventually sell them due to random reasons. But now, I feel I've landed myself a keeper! Saw an add on Craigslist for a 71 shell and after a long wait period to hear from the seller we finally struck a deal and head out to pick it up in the middle of nowhere. To say the least, upon arrival the car had absolutely NOTHING in it. And by nothing I mean NOTHING. No mechanical, no brake or fuel lines, no interior no hatch, no windows ... heck, the owner had to Wire the suspension and instead of bolts ran steel wires in between holes (spindle, control arms, etc) just to get it in all fours, which made a huge of a difference when it came to load on to flat bed. While almost no bolts were even provided, To my surprise, the owner had a fair amount of the original parts in a small trailer ready to piece together and threw everything in for free!. The original hatch had miraculously somehow flown off when he previously transported the car home and thus far car's still hatch less. The following day while making a list of the missing parts and further inspection I came to realize the car is actually a 7/1970 car! ^O_O^ After settling down for a few days I found out the car was owned by a member here and got some cool pics and info about the cars history. Found that while the car was very rust free it's definitely had its fun and abuse at the track. Regardless, I got the empty shell for a good price and a positive open mind with hopes of giving this girl new life and a new future far far away from either junkyard and or smasher. I'll be posting some pics of my lady soon. For now, for sure I know I'll be running a 2JZ-GTE power plant & 6speed supra Trans with Z31 finned clsd/CV rear end. Pending the sale of my IS300 to fund the project. For now, let the parts search begin!
  8. Hi Guys Can anyone tell me the engine origin of the codes cast on L6 crankshafts. Is there a list I could look up? I bought a lot of stuff from Electromotive in the late 80' early 90' when they were clearing out their racing Z program. I have 15 cranks of various type including P30 and E31, even some with no cast marks.
  9. Hey guys, I have my 240z stripped all the way down and working on fixing some body issues before rebuild. I have replaced the roof skin as I had an aftermarket sunroof and wanted a slicktop. I'm wondering if I need to replace the entire section of the rear bumper/valance that goes all the way up to the hatch or just cut and patch the damaged portion. I don't have any experience with body work so not sure what the best approach would be. There is a very small ripple in the floor of the hatch and the very end of the frame rail has a little wow in it. Also looks like the right taillight frame is slightly bent. See pics. Thanks in advance! Cheers!
  10. I recently bought my first Z, a 1972 240z with a pre-done L28 swap that, according to the PO, is stroked to 3.0 liters with forged internals and an upgraded cam. It's been a great car, however it runs on the original L24 carbs which have trouble supplying the necessary fuel throughout the rev range, and completely maxes out at 5,000 rpm. It is frustrating having an engine with so much potential for decent power that is held back by the carbs, so I'm curious as to what direction I should go with this project. I read on some long-winded article that I can either modify the carbs with larger needles and other components, have rebello bore them out, or go with an EFI system. I like the idea of EFI because I live in, and will most likely be going to college in a cold climate and starting the car is a difficult task. As I understand it, the engine was built with low compression by the PO for the eventual addition of a turbo later on (which I plan to do too, just a few years from now) and I'm told that adding a turbo to EFI is easier and more reliable to run than turbo+carbs. The PO also has a "manifold and actual rail and body for injection" that he is willing to give me a discount on should I go that route. So, I'm curious as to how difficult and costly it would be for me to make the switch from carbs to EFI, and whether or not the current carbs would be able to be modified to work with the current engine demands without a liberal amount of work. Also which would be the best in the long run for the eventual addition of a turbo? Thanks, Jack
  11. I picked up a 71 manual 240z. I can't get any spark from it at all. I have check the points gap which was .018. I have voltage to positive side of coil at both key on and start position. I have used a ohm meter to check that the plug on the distributor is grounded and it is when the point is closed. I have full battery voltage at the negative side of the coil as well as the wire from the coil to the cap. What would be the issue? A condenser of some sort?
  12. 240Z Parts OEM Driver Side Mirror - $ 40 drip rails - $30 70-78 Hood with openings- (local pickup only) Los Angeles $120 RB26 Parts New Unused SplitFire coils for RB26 - $275 RB26 Injector Drop resistor. New- $50 RB26 Injector Drop Resistor. Used $30 - Needs connector piece Auto Meter pro comp liquid filled boost gauge. New $30 RB26 CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) - Used- $50 RB26 Cam gears- oem used- $25 Intercooler 4" x 12 x 22 $80 RB26 OEM Intake Manifold- $75
  13. We are now stocking 5 different Datsun related top quality handmade leather key chains: 510 Datsun 240Z S130 Classic Z Please visit: www.datsun-garage.com Not advertised but do have: SSS 280Z For any questions/suggestions please PM me or feel free to email us at: info@datsun-garage.com Thanks, - Jeff
  14. I am selling the SU carbs that I just took off a running 72 Datsun with an L28 swap. These are in good shape...but definitely need to be cleaned and tuned up. Missing one of the keepers on the rear fuel line inlet (see pics). Asking $300 obo plus shipping for the whole set up. I also have air filters and another N36 intake for sale that would make a great package.
  15. Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project. My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car. What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship. What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects. I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game. Thanks.
  16. I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  17. I have been working on resurrecting my '72 240z w/ l28et conversion. In the past two years the car has come a long way. Due to lack of time and/or lack of expertise I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction on the following items remaining on my restoration to-do list: 1. Installation of interior control panel 2. Install of radio and speakers 3. Install of sound deadening 4. Fender roll or install of fender flares 5. Troubleshoot ignition/fuel issue (fairly certain it's a bad TPS) I'm in north/central jersey. If anyone has a trustworthy and reasonably priced mechanic that can do the work, please let me know.
  18. Hey everone, So i`ve finally gotten the chance to do a engine swap in my car and thought i would post up a build thread on here so show you what im up too and to get some advice from all you gurus.I`ve got a 1972 240z with a L24 with basically just a MSD ignition setup on it. But at work we had a pretty clean 7M-GTE sitting around so I picked it up for $200 and started my swap. The 7m had a blown hg so I decided to do a full rebuild as this will be my daily. An older picture of my car: *sorry for crappy cell phone pics What i currently have: when I first took it out of the box: after a little tear down/inspection and clean: the two mating faces: So far I have started by pulling it all apart and getting the head machined. Luckily it was only warped 0.005in needed a total of 0.012in to take all the pitting out of the block for the metal head gasket. Then I microsonicly cleaned all the parts and did a proper rebuild, with a little port on ex runners, polish on ex runners, and all new seals and gaskets all around. And of course some paint to make it look a little nicer. Picked up a freshly rebuilt R154 from a local mechanic: Had the flywheel machined: Started tearing down the block: As of right now I have a fully rebuilt head ready to be put on the block and the block was decked and honed. Im just in the middle of ordering some parts then I'll put it all together!! I litterally cannot wait to drive this car when its boosted. its a long awaited dream of mine. Any questions, opinions and comments are welcome!! just don't hate on the 7M to bad, I think since I am building it properly it will be good as a daily with 250-300bhp Chris
  19. SOLD! Hey there! For a faster response, PM me! For Sale: Used MSA 3-2 Header, Square Ports, No Smog Fittings for 70-76 240z-260z-280z, comes with 2.5" piping, and rubber mounting brackets already welded on and drilled, connected to a 2.5" Magnaflow muffler. Location: Southern CA, San Diego area. Local pickup only, sorry. Price: $150 Reason for selling: I purchased the system to use temporarily until my current headers were finished and installed, no longer need them now. I purchased the MSA 3-2 header from Motorsport!, installed it back in April of 2016, and took them off on the 7th of Sept. I put around 500 miles through them, you'll see in the pictures there is a small amount of rust but nothing serious (you'll have to clean them and get them powder coated). The welding was done by Richards Performance Muffler in Oceanside, CA. If you've never heard a Magnaflow exhaust, they're amazingly nice. Sounds like a V8/old race car. Link to MSA add: here If you have any questions please let me know. I switched from the Magnaflow to JDM twin pipes and let me tell you, the twin pipes do not compare! Reason for edit: SOLD
  20. 1972 Datsun 240Z Project SOLD!!!!!! SOLD!!! Awesome clean 240, would be a great cruiser with weekend racer potential, or a great base for a vintage race car. This was a 100% running car until I took the motor out of it. A complete L28/5sp is included, but the motor needs a rebuild. A good rebuilt running motor would make this into a fabulous car. CLEAN OREGON TITLE IN HAND! 240z shell with good paint, and minimum rust. Clean dog-legs, lower fenders, lower valence, no rust in the battery tray, hatch tray or in the hatch itself, very clean gas cap area, no dents or dings. Some paint chips, but overall the paint is 8/10. Engine: N42 L80 with N47 head. MSA 3-2 header. Rebello prepared twin SU carbs flow ported, tuned needles and jets set for autocross, Fuel tank acid cleaned and POR 15 sealed, Mallory HyFire 6 - digital ignition control, relocated light weight battery, dual electric cooling fans, electric fuel pump. Driveline: 5sp Transmission, Subaru R160 LSD diff, out of an SVX, CV axle conversion. Modern Motorsport rear disk brake conversion using 240sx rear calipers. Stainless brake lines front and rear, Hawk HP plus brake pads. Suspension: Adjustable coil overs, springs with 320 lbs front and 400lbs back, corner balanced, lowered 1.7", Tokico five position adjustable shocks, adjustable camber plates, adjustable caster control arms, rear caster and camber adjustable concentric bolts, Two front sway bars racing 7/8" and softer 3/4", front and rear shock tower braces. Body/Interior: 4 point welded roll bar installed, custom front to rear body stiffening frame rails, Recaro seats with 5 point racing harness. Clean mostly complete interior, capped dash, solid center console, good transmission tunnel upholstery, great condition headliner and sun visors. Momo steering wheel, aftermarket tach with programmable shift light. Working locks, Techno Toy Tuning tow hooks front and rear Front and rear 240z bumpers in good shape, ZG flares, Type 1 airdam, headlight covers. Lots more high resolution images in the gallery: https://imgur.com/a/srrYY Car is located in Portland Oregon.
  21. Rear differential swap mounting kit for Ford Explorer 8.8 differential into a 1970-78 Datsun 240Z, 260Z or 280Z. This is a basic kit for mounting the 8.8 differential into your S30 chassis with no modifications needed to the chassis. The 8.8 differential swap is a good choice when looking for different gearing options, lockers/limited slips and a virtually indestructible differential. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/ford-8-8-irs-rear-differential-swap-bracket-kit.html?search=ford Rear Axle related parts: - 8.8 Explorer stub axles 31 spline billet to 930CV: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/ford-8-8-irs-axles-explorer-style.html?search=ford - 8.8 Pinion Yoke to 1330 U Joint: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/drive-shaft/ford-8-8-rear-differential-pinion-yoke-to-1330-u-joint.html?search=ford - 8.8 Aluminum Rear Cover: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/ford-8-8-rear-differential-cover-aluminum.html?search=ford - Outer axles billet chromoly to 930CV: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-racing-chromoly-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html?search=outer+axle - Outer axle chromoly companion flange: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle - Billet Aluminum axle adaptor: https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html?search=outer+axle
  22. New product: Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z front lower control arms in billet aluminum with adjustable rod ends. High quality parts, made in the USA, everything needed for proper fitment on your S30. $189.00 https://zcardepot.com/suspension/front-suspension/front-lower-control-arm-billet-adjustable-240z-260z-280z.html?search=front+control+arm
  23. So this is long over due. I apologize. I said from the time I started leaching off of Hybridz and the collective knowledge here, that I would post pictures as I started to progress. Well it has only taken a little over 3 years for me to start a build thread. Sorry. So I will try to do my best and keep a thread going of the progress, but I feel the need to start from the beginning. Always loved Z cars and in my teen years in the late 90's all I wanted was a 300zxtt, then I moved on to wanting a 350z and so on. Times changed had lots of different cars, and kind of forgot about Z cars. Planned on getting a project car, and debated between a factory five Cobra, or a 65/66 mustang fast back. All with the same theme. Old look new/newer running gear. A friend posted a picture one night of a light blue 260Z with ccw's, and My mind exploded. I had been looking at and trying to justify the price of a mustang at the time (30-45000 CAD) so when I started looking at prices of reasonable shape S30's I was blown away. I started searching and found a few in Canada. A beautiful one in Windsor- seemed high for price, a couple others (kinda rough) and then some down in the states. After hunting a bunch of ads, and becoming discouraged, I reached out to the guy in Windsor. He drove the car up 3 hours to me so I could see it, and we worked out a much better price. It is a 1971 240z. It was originally sold in Burbank California, and was imported to Canada in 2012 by the seller. He pulled it all apart found no rust - so the car was coated in por15. He swapped out the L24 for a L28 with an E88 head, and a 260 cam. loaded the new mill in with a 280zx 5 spd and an open 3.90 r180 from White head performance. Engine ran awesome and was pretty strong! All I needed to do was replace the brake drums and I was rolling.
×
×
  • Create New...