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  1. Hey guys, need some help with a little issue I have been encountering, and havent really come across a answer in the search section SPECS early 260 w/ sr20det light to mild mods(stock turbo) suby 2004 3.9 lsd rebuilt 240z axles wolf creek racing axle adapters MY BACKGROUND degree in automotive science six years working for Benz as a master tech ISSUE: popping noise & vehicle hops in tight turning reverse, forward motion turning, or taking off(normal load driving) breaking u joints HISTORY About seven months ago I decided it was time to replace the stock 260z diff after blowing up its guts, After much research I picked up a 04 suby lsd off ebay used, had the diff rebuilt at known shop(seals , pinion and ring gear replaced), and installed it into my 260z using wolf creek racing axle adapters and stock 240z half shafts with new u joints. The diff was filled with motul 90pa, fluid specifically made for that diff. After being proud of my swap, it was off to testing the diff out and performed the break in procedures including the 20 or so mile drive with letting the diff cool to harden the metal. Everything seemed ok, but after 50 miles I started to notice a clunking/popping noise coming from the rear end & and the whole car would hop(during clunking noise) as if you were driving with a flat tire. This would happen when reversing down hill from my drive way and turning, or making forward turns from a stop, or when starting to move under low/normal load, or making large 180 degree freeway off ramps turns. When I inspected the diff I found the side seals leaking oil, and wondered if their was something wrong with the rebuild. I took the car back to the diff shop, who actually started yelling at me and swearing when I told them the car wasn't right and I wanted them to check it out. I asked them to inspect not just the diff, but the drivetrain for binding. Before the rebuild the shop was told to spend extra attention to the clutch's, due to the cost of replacing clutches vs just picking up a new diff. Talking with the diff shop about the problem, I asked again about the clutches, turns out they did not torque test the clutches or test the clutch adjustment, just visually looked at them and demand them ok. After a week at the shop, it was time to pick up the car. the shop said they drove the car all over and said the noise was due to no lsd additive and the wrong fluid. I showed him the suby recommended fluids and the motul site indicating that it wasn't needed, and he basically told me to GTFO and that he was perfect. Leaving the shop, heading home, within 20 miles, the diff starting popping around the corner and I lost the passenger side half shaft at the inner U-joint. The car ended up sitting for a month or two due to my schooling and work demands keeping me out of the garage. Last week I finally found time to swap the axle with a spare one I had laying around. The car seemed to drive ok for about 15 Miles, until I reversed out of a parking space making a corner....then the infamous popping noise came back. You can spin the tires free hand in the air, and you feel light resistance then a little moderate then light again, but I think thats just from the brakes(doesnt look like the axles causing it) MY THOUGHTS: I don't know if the clutches are causing the wheels to lock up and cause this issue, but that seems kinda unlikely. I am leaning more to an issue with the axles coming out of the diff at to much of a angle causing them to bind when rotating. The adapters seem to stick out a little far for my liking, but I have not seen a photo of them installed on another car to see if this distance is normal. However other people run this set up and haven't mentioned this concern. I would love to swap the axles out to cv joints, but have not found a shop that builds custom axles( I want the axle to have a suby inner to eliminate the adapters and reduce the angle), and honestly I'm pretty over spending a crap ton of money on this thing(I'm a paramedic student, poor as hell lol). I am also reluctant to spend over a grand on axles, knowing that this may not fix my issue....sooo hard to justify that one just yet. CALL TO ARMS!: This whole situation sucks, I spent days swapping the motor, and building the car, and now this issue, ugh. I'm ready to kick this car to the curb, but before my last straw breaks, I am humbly requesting assistance. Any ideas would help, any experience with this swap, any pictures of adapters installed, ect. I am located in the bay area and the only real rear end shop near me happens to be the one that told me to GTFO. I can try and get pictures or a video over the next few days if that will help anyone whos interested in this challenge.
  2. I love V10's so I'd really like to try this conversion in my 260Z, just trying to work out if it would be possible. Engine is a BMW S85 5L V10 from the E60 M5, makes 507hp is stock form, with less restrictive exhaust system and remap up to 550HP is possible, Its not all that heavy an engine, an RB26DETT weighs 255 - 260kg and the S85 weighs around 240kg so it certainly not to heavy to put in a Z. The engine will definitly fit lengthwise but it may be a bit tight widthwise and I'm not sure if the E92 M3 6 speed gearbox will fit in the transmission tunel and the gearstick position looks like it could be quite far back. Only other concerns are clearance of the front crossmember and steering arm. What do you guys think? Heres some photos of the engine in question:
  3. This has probably been touched upon in another post but I have been searching for hours and can't find anything. I just picked up a donor fox body with a 5.8L 351W in it mated to a WC T5. I originally wanted to do just a 5.0 out of a fox but the price was too good to pass up on this car. Has anyone used the Laine Family Write up to do this swap? Does the engine cradle work for it as well as the mounting positions? :bang head: Sorry if this is asking a lot my fabrication skill and tool selection is not exactly what I would like it to be for this project so any help would be greatly appreciated I imagine the driveshaft length should be about the same correct me if I'm wrong but yeah even if you guys just link a thread that has the info I'm just a helpless newbie so I'd be very greatful P.S. I plan on boosting this 351w eventually just to change it up a bit even more for the sbf Z-world
  4. I haven't posted here in forever it seems like. A lot of you guys have yet to be introduced to the green Z unless you've seen it on Facebook. We picked it up actually to only rob the fenders from for the red one but I've ended up falling in love. It's a hardtop car whereas the red one has a sunroof. I attempted to make a new headliner for it where the factory one was torn up. After that not much else has happened except for locating all the rust areas which, on this car, aren't actually that bad. It has been garage kept for the last couple years that I know of which has led to mostly only the floor pans being shot. the rocker panels are decent but could use some patching and a few areas in the door jam area that need some attention. As far as engine goes I've resorted back to the 2jz I have sitting around. Still working on mounts for it and am currently gathering parts, or rather money to buy parts, to start rebuilding it. Nothing spectacular out of it but maybe some GTE internals If my engine builder friend has them. Stock head for now but maybe some day switch to either a 1jz for a 1.5jz build or straight to a non vvti 2jzgte head. These are all just dreams right now and I think I'll be more than happy with a stock 2jzge in a 2500lb car. As of now all I've done is painted the valve covers, clean the block a little, and have sourced some more of the parts I'll be needing. A crankshaft from an sc300 and also a wiring harness and ecu from an SC. After that all that's left is a rebuild kit with gaskets and bearings and such. Also gonna go ahead and replace the water and oil pumps while the engine is out. Suspension I'm leaning towards the T3 DIY coilover kit or maybe just some of the mr2 struts with stiffer springs. Wheels will be some of the diamond racing wheels for now but in the end is a secret . Let's just say I'll be looking into doing a 5 lug swap soon as well. Still looking into a cd009 transmission swap but I may just throw a w58 on the 2jz and get it in the car. Maybe I'll actually be able to provide updates for this thread pretty quick. I enrolled in my local technical college for their electrician/ commercial wiring class and will be done about summer time next year. I'm kinda excited about that but who needs eduaction when you have a Z car. LMAO. Thanks guys
  5. Hello all, I've been lurking on the site for awhile, and finally decided to take the plunge and pick up an S30 Z-car from a fellow forum member over at OntarioZCar, along with my brother (Adrian Z). (If you're in ON, and not on that forum, I highly recommend it - great bunch of guys). This is going to be a dedicated build thread, I will try to make it picture-heavy, as those are always the best ones. She's a 1974 260Z with 46k miles on the ODO. I thought it was mostly original, but on closer inspection in the shop it's had some work done on it (not good either, going to be a bit of a pain to fix). The front frame appears to have some damage and they fixed it poorly. The floorpans are shot, there's typical rust everywhere you'd expect from a 40 y/o car in Canada, but nothing that's not fixable with a bit of work. The bigger issue is that it was sitting neglected in a barn for the past 15 years, and the engine seems to be seized. Clutch is unresponsive as well, breaks nonexistent (work on moving first, then worry about stopping). The previous-previous owner jimmy-rigged the wiring, so that needs to be redone, and he took the stock carbs off in favour of a single-weber setup - not sure why. So far I've just been inspecting and figuring how deep of a hole I've dug for myself. I washed the car, drained the goopy old oil, and slapped a new oil filter on. Filled it with 10W-30, not sure if that's best, but some forum folks seem to think it works, so that's good enough for me. I'm pretty sure the rings are rusted to the bores, so I pulled the plugs and filled each cylinder up with WD40, leaving it overnight to try penetrate the rust, see if it feels like turning tomorrow... Taking her home Weird single-weber setup Interior - Driver's seat shot, the rest is ok Badly repaired front frame under the engine (not going to pass safety here...) Rotted floor pan First of many oil changes Eric
  6. Hey guys, This is the journey of my 1974 Datsun 260z to where it currently stands and where it is headed. I hope you enjoy! This was the car when I first got it... It was a good running car that was fairly "clean" with the exception of some hidden rust. I drove the car like this for a couple of years before I really got the itch to modify it. To start things off, my carbs started leaking so I rebuilt the round top already on the car. The outcome: Nice new carbs and a sad looking engine bay. (Ignore the wheel in the background, we will get to those later...) With the production of the BC Racing coilovers, I decided it was time to pull the car apart for a few updates in the winter of 2014/2015. It would share a space with an old Austin Healey Mini for the winter. With it up on Jack stands, the intentions were to go through the bushings, suspension and address the rear brakes. Along the Way I also picked up a set of Wilwoods for the front which are still having brackets fabricated. I acquired a Silvermine rear disc brake conversion, BC Racing coilovers, & some Prothane Bushings and work began. With all of the parts acquired that I wanted/needed for the winter ahead, I came across a pretty rair set of wheels that I would snatch up: 15x9 3-Piece Revolution RFX's that the previous owner had painted the faces of a House of Kolors Green. At first, I hated the color of the wheels but they have since grown on me a bit. With everything ready for the winter project, I started tearing the car apart... [/url With all of the suspension pulled off and the struts sectioned, I started assembling the front coilovers. The shop I had weld them had some pretty ugly welds that I ended up having to grind down. I also wire-wheeled the knuckle assembly and painted it for a nice finished look. I also went on ahead and wire-wheeled and painted the brake dust shields while I was at it... Finished Products:
  7. Car is no longer charging. Can anyone tell me what the role of the Black/Yellow wire is, going to the voltage regulator on a 260z? According to the factory wiring diagram it goes straight to the interlock relay. Is it supplying voltage TO the relay or is it receiving voltage FROM it? For context, here's the issue I'm having: I get 0v at the WB and Y connectors (these run to the F and N terminals on the alternator) There is 12v on the W wire at the regulator. The B wire is showing a strong ground. The BW wire runs inside the passenger compartment and becomes the green wires on the Tach, Amp/Fuel, and Temp/Oil gauges The BY wire connects to the interlock relay. Still trying to wrap my head around those last 2 bullet points. I have to admit, i don't understand why those any gauge besides the ammeter needs to be connected to the voltage regulator. Not sure if this is significant or not, but the BY wire reads .059 volts when the ignition switch is on. I am tempted to jump 12v to this wire, to see what happens, but i'm afraid of hurting the regulator, if it is isn't defective. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
  8. Was wondering if the 95 300z turbo r200 with cv shafts is worth grabbing for the rear of a 260z late model ? Seems, from what I read, they have some issues just dropping them in.?
  9. So there is this ball buster on craigslist correcting my post. In my post i have my car listed as a 1975 260 Z built 12/74. My car is a 260 it came with the L-26 came with 260 badges and it had the big bumpers. When I began to register it in the car came out as a 1975 Datsun 260. I was confused at the moment and ask them why if it's a 1974, dMV's response was that that late 260s were registered as early 1975 cars. Took it and was researched it and was done with it until this guy Mr. Datsun engineer. He kept in insisting on that there is no such thing as a 1975 260z. But I have a 260z 1974.5 registered as 75', technicly its 1975 z260.
  10. WTB a l28et swapped Z. Please post pics of what you have or link a thread. Location does not matter i will fly out to it. No projects please looking for one that is good to go.
  11. Back in action! Came across this threw a friend of mine. 1974 260Z (11/74). Got it for a great price. Sat in a garage for about 3 years. Was drug out of a barn by my good friend about 8 years ago. He then swaped in the motor/ trans and ended up selling it before it drove, to the guy i got it from. He then carried on a decent swap. The car has a very nice COMPLETE aftermarket harness. Has very little rust. All of it is exterior. Flairs and fenders could fix it all . Original paint (and pin striping?). Has Eibach springs with Tokico adjustable struts all the way around. Larger Gen 1 Yota brakes up front. And a few other nice features. It goes down the road very nice. One of the best riding z's Ive had. Sadly the Motor dose have issues. It had a faint knock. And a few other issues I noticed after having it for a few days. At the time of writing the the motor is completly stripped. Will go into more detail later on what i found. (Bearings) Anyway Its awsome to be back and have a Z again. Heres a few pics. Currently has a lil beef under the hood. A small block Chevy Vortec 350 (1996??). Fed by a Holley Avenger. I was told its a 650 but Havent verified. Mated to a T-5 (from a camaro? Havent done the research yet). Which is spinning an open R200 (Ratio unknow still). Ahh the joys of buying projects. More to come!
  12. Aerodynamic

    Front 3/4

    From the album: 1974 260Z

  13. Aerodynamic

    Profile

    From the album: 1974 260Z

  14. I've narrowed my search for an engine to swap into my '74 Datsun to either a Nissan 2.6l Rb26 or a Toyota 3l 2jzgte. Following will be my reasons for each engine and why I want to swap it. (ALL PRICES ARE AS LISTED ON www.jdmenginedepot.com) RB26DET: 1). keep the tradition going of an inline 6, 2.6l as the stock l26 2). More suppport and kits avaliable on the market 3). Very distinct sound of an RB ...(The link to the RB http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_engine_details/106/Nissan_RB26DETT_Skyline_R32_GT-R_Engine,_Manual_AWD_Trans,_Harness,_&_ECU_JDM_RB26DETT) 2JZGTE: 1). Significantly cheaper than the Rb26 (http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_engine_details/208/Toyota_2JZ-GTE_VVTI_Aristo_/_Supra_/_Lexus_GS300_/_Lexus_SC300_Engine,_Automatic_Trans_&_Harness_JDM_2JZGTE) 2). Clearance of the turbochargers and the steering column would'nt be a problem 3). C'mon it's a Toyota! 4). I have access to a lot of information on the JZ platform from my friends THE NEGATIVES OF EACH: RB26 1; would have to source an rb25 tranny so 2; Japan only ever made a few cars with the RB26 and not many if not none of them reached the states so parts would be a PITA and wallet 3; Turbos apparently have a lot of issue clearing the steering column on a US spec 260z (LHD) 2JZ: 1; More fabrication work (not really an issue) 2; Less support in the since of swap kits without them costing $2k+ 3; For some reason I feel like wiring would be a pain (I may be wrong) 4; It would come from the shipper with automatic tranny and that just won't do. So I would then have to find either a W series or save up and find an R154. But shouldnt cost any more than the RB26. And someone might acually want a turbo auto trans from a 2j compared to the S**t box that is the AWD RB tranny. For fuel I suppose I'm just gonna go the beaten path of probably a 12-15 gallon fuel cell and a Walbro 255 As you can see I have a lot more positives on the Toyota side compared to the RB but I want input from people WHO HAVE ACTUALLY DONE EITHER SWAP (or have assissted in it, or that know more than it is a hard swap) Thank you guys! - Grayson
  15. Hey guys, I figured I may as well start a build thread for my late model 260Z. I am currently in the process of installing the new BC racing coilovers as well as working on a few areas of the brakes while I'm in there. I will also be installing flares this winter after my new 3-piece Revolution RFX wheels in 16x9. Below are a few pictures to get you up to date: Pictures of the coilovers right out of the box: Car on Jack Stands preparing to be disassembled for coilover install: Dirty Front Assembly Removed: Disassembling: Sectioned a bit (Not all the way. Correct cut is 45mm up from the bottom.): Rear Assembly Removed: Sectioned down a bit: Test Fit on front assemble before cutting to the correct height: My 3 Piece Revolution RFX's (Soon to be refinished to Matte Black Faces with Gloss Bronze Lips):
  16. This will be my first attempt at an official build thread, as well as my first time trying out photobucket to add pictures so stick with me please. (Pic Heavy) First off I am Grayson, a 17 year old from the east coast, you know that place that breeds rusty cars. Last year I explored a dirt road I was always curious about and managed to find this "gem" We managed to pick it up for $800 (having no idea what the hell we were getting into) It was rusty, of course but also came with about 5 boxes full of replacement parts. That picture is the day we got it delivered to our shop and right before I started tearing it apart. WARNING these next pictures may bring back bad memories but the rust is an evil we have all dealt with; http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140226_184531_zpss3j9jemd.jpg.html?sort=3&o=25 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140226_182926_zpsptongh9l.jpg.html?sort=3&o=26 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140226_182910_zpsedxlk5oo.jpg.html?sort=3&o=27 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140226_182900_zpspeqecq7j.jpg.html?sort=3&o=28 Surprisingly the battery tray area was fine The rear hatch area did have some pretty bad places though http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140816_230652_zpsb0rbsdut.jpg.html?sort=3&o=15 Rust aside because we have all seen it, felt it, hell probably tasted it at some point. Me and my dad (who hates this car) got the floor pans replaced along with the rocker panels but I don't really have a good picture of them after they're installed http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140405_222424_zpsg9kol34t.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1 We did actually manage to get the stock L26 to run after sitting for 5 years I think. Just took a new battery and new fuel line but we had to cut it off due to it spraying fuel on the battery and windshield http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140117_184737_zpsgi3ckpbu.mp4.html?sort=3&o=2 Thats me that says "woahhh what" and then Jared in the blue jacket with the 13 "woahs" and my friend Mitch in the car. Thinking back on it now I seriously should have just got the l26 back in good condition and driven it like that but I'm a young arrogant teenager so f##k society I bought a 2JZ http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140414_194248_zpscodyk27a.jpg.html?sort=3&o=36 I picked it up from Mitch for $400 which I felt was a good deal given the fact he was also going to help me with installing it and the wiring he owns two 1jzgte VVT-I swapped Toyota Cressidas. I started getting into areas where I was unsure about the Datsun so I foolishly sold the oil pan for the JZ thinking I would need a new one anyway. The one I had was the rear-sump from an SC300 that I needed. http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140830_151039_zpsmjmstoll.jpg.html?sort=3&o=28 I sold everything for the oil system for a incredibly stupid/low $170 pic related http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_168456223304030_zpso1sdwvox.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=33 But no big deal I still need to hit up the local pull a part for a crank shaft/ full rotating assembly and now the oilpan Live and learn I guess. I did manage to score the hookup on a turbo charger for $free.50 so I'll eat the cost of the new oilpan. My dad works on TigerCat machines which are equipped with massive Cummins turbodiesel engines which are in turn equipped with Holset turbos http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1411931033942_zps4y7rnouf.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2 Pictured are two turbos; left is an HX40w and right is a much smaller HX35 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-27%2016.04.21_zpsebrhzbfm.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0 Since I am going to have the turbo on the passenger side I figured why the hell not have a fender exit (this is still highly under consideration) I still have the L26 in there for now but the white circle is approximately 3.5-4" that I will eventually cut out and run the downpipe through http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140917_202435_zpsiekzgqtk.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=46 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140917_202631_zpswa33quqc.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=47 Our local law enforcement is the complete opposite of strict about exhaust so problems shouldn't really arise there (I hope ) That pretty much covers actual progress so now onto the plans. I'm still looking for fenders in better condition and ran across these two babies http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-10-16%2023.39.01_zpshh2ahyln.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=52 But the owner is in the process of restoring the 260z but said he would sell the 280zx for a pretty low price. I had to strongly resist the urge to trade him 260z parts and money for the 280. Priorities priorities. I also just got a new DD in the form of 1995 Toyota/Lexus luxury. Gotta say this is my favorite car ever strongly recommend the LS400 to anyone who needs 4 doors for more whores (or children/family) http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141016_174103_zpszlly65dd.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=53 We also just got back from a trip to Arizona which I gotta say is probably my favorite place to visit. Blah blah blah pictures from the Grand Canyon, Hoover Dam, and Las Vegas http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/d3404bd2-8301-4177-b14c-4be8c9a4cc0c_zpsuvutmxtq.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=16 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141012_162942_zps71w5icvy.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=14 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141012_190234_zpsdfqpu1pi.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=11 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/63246712-dfa5-4cd5-bef3-20a8fdb77220_zps1espdven.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=10 Super fun trip If you get the chance to head west see those three things. And keep an eye out for Datsuns, THEY WERE EVERYWHERE. That's pretty much all for today. More to come hopefully tomorrow in the form of JZ parts. To all who have read this far thanks and please return!
  17. I'm looking for a rust free and overall clean s30 hood in the Houston Area. I have no preference concerning which style either. Just let me know what you have. Feel free to send me a PM or leave a response here with the details. Best Regards Anthony
  18. Hi Guys, I'm going to be in LA from 4th December 2014 to the 8th December 2014. I am willing to travel upto 400 miles from LA. I am interested in modified z's and un modified z's. I preffer the zg arches with wide wheels look but anything considered. I am looking for rust free examples complete or incomplete. I would preffer turbo converted cars but a well sorted N/A is also an option. The cars (I'm looking at buying two maybe three) will be shipped back to the UK. The cars will be collected by the shipping company in my presence, Cash or wire transfer will be the method of payment My private email is jmcl.testing@gmail.com I will require a fair bit of information about each car and will need to see deatiled photos. Cheers guys and I hope to here from you soon. Adam
  19. Any of you Datsun guys have this problem before?: First off: 2/74 260z My car starts by a push and hold button once the key is in the on position. This is how it's hooked up from the PO. It's literally 1 wire from the battery> Push button>1 wire> starter. Does not run off any other wires or ignition, so I can run the starter with my key off. - If i twist the key to the start position I would still hear the ignition relay click even though it's not hooked to the starter. The other day I went to start my car and the ammeter gauge showed no charge, lights were dim too. I turned my car off and none of the lights worked/turned on. I then twisted the key to the start position and it didn't click the relay like it usually would do even though that's not how I start my car. I started my car with the push button (like usual) and the ammeter was still not showing charge and all the lights were dim. I started it and shut it off a few times and the gauge finnaly showed charge and all the lights are bright and back to normal. They even turn on when the car is off. The relay still doesn't click when I twist te key though. Even when I take the battery cable off and put it back on I don't hear a click from a relay like I used too ( the same relay I think). Already changed the ignition switch. And checked all fuses. Now my problem is that the fusible link for (what I think is) the ignition/starter is getting really hot. The fusible link that is getting hot bridges the thick white wires running from the shunt. The white thick wire is also hot at the shunt too. When I disconnect the T plug at the alternator, the fusible link doesn't get hot anymore. The cap for the fusible links say BATT(for the one thick white wire that gets hot) and IGN(the one that doesn't and is white/red wire) I have a feeling my problem has something to do with my ignition not clicking anymore. Also, when I would plug the negative battery cable back on, a relay would click too. Is this the same relay? The relay clicks come from the passenger front kick panel.
  20. Hey Zers! Well its come time to turn my stroker 280zx into a stroker turbo..right now i have 10:1 CR. I plan to install forged J.E Dished pistons and a 2.5mm HG. this should bring my comp down to a low enough leval to turbo charge.my biggest concern is going with an aftermarket EFI..im running tripple 44 mikunis right now.im thinking of using the N42 non-EGR intake manifold and a 70mm TB.greedy boost controller.Megasquirt 2,MSD 6-2.t3/t4 turbo,720cc injectors.blow off valve/waste gate etc..im wondering what sensors are needed to use megasquirt for my fuel control only.am i able to use MS for fuel only and use MSD 6 for my spark control? if this works,can someone please give me a short write up as to how to go about setting this up.im pretty new to EFI as i grew up with carbs (and im 21). Please,any insight on this would be great. P.S- I plan to run 17-20lb boost MAX! thanks~ Randall
  21. Hi, I recently picked up some Chastain Shadow louvers for my 280z but they don't have the lower mounting plates that the captive screws go onto and tighten down on. These louvers are the kind that go underneath the weatherstripping and lift up. Thanks in advance, Brandon
  22. hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall
  23. I had this epiphany last night about a Mercedes-Datsun hybrid. I'm a big fan of the Merc turbo diesel engines and how little money you can throw into them for an unhuman amount of torque. Last night I had no idea this is actually a somewhat popular swap and have seen some info on it but is a kinda few and far between so I'm looking to get a Merc diesel thread started. My local pull a part has a few cars that might actually provide me with the OM603 or preferably an OM606 TD engine. My dads job is servicing large Cummins engines on logging equipment so I have a HX40 turbo sitting by on standby I'm waiting to apply to something. For a transmission I've learned that apparently a 300ZXT manual transmission will go up to it but I am quite skeptical about that. But who knows. Obviously engine/trans mounts will be custom made and fuel system doesn't really worry me all that much wiring however is keeping me racking my brain but I'm not too discouraged I've seen crazier swaps out there. Any information you have would help out a ton. Especially if you know of a way to contact the guy with the running OM606 240z that would be incredible. As always thanks in advance- Grayson!
  24. Hey all, New member, but I've been lurking while looking to buy. I've found a great 260z to potentially buy, but it's got some oddities to it and some issues. Gallery: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0dMD16jjK-rdUpKOTdESlJuUUU&usp=drive_web First, It's body/frame/exterior is in really solid shape. Repaint in non-original blue/gray is good, originally orange. Second, Interior is great. Now the oddity: Dogleg 5 speed transmission from ??? vehicle... And the negatives: Slow leaks at the rear diff and somewhere around the engine/transmission. I really could use some feedback about: value, costs of leak repairs, how good/bad the dogleg is (fit, original install, longterm use), and general opinions. Really appreciate all feedback! Jeremy
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