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  1. I have two brand new in box Tokico Illumina adjustable struts p/n BZ3099. These are for the Toyota MR2 1987-89, but have been popularly used in sectioned struts for the 240, 260, 280Z. I bought these several years ago and never installed them and now my 280Z project has taken a different turn, and I will no longer be needing these. I will only sell both together for $250. Buyer pays shipping from Zip 29303. Please do not request a shipping quote unless you accept the purchase price already. I will need a few days to box these properly and securely including adding packing material to protect these parts for you before I can get the quote from UPS. I am attaching an article I printed from HybridZ forum many years ago that explains the sectioning in case you can't find it here doing a search. Strut sectioning.pdf
  2. Introducing our first product to hit the market is our 1971-1978 LED Emblem turn signal kit. Each kit is hand made at our shop in Las Vegas, NV. Our kit is a plug n play harness kit that integrates LED turn signals into the pillar emblem. Installation is easy and we even have a tutorial video posted to our YouTube channel. To order you can visit our website https://harmonresto.com/ or send a DM to our Instagram page! https://www.instagram.com/harmonresto/
  3. Hey all I'm just looking for inputs on CV axle lenghts for anyone using the r200 longnose 300zxt axles. I am looking at possibly having custom axles made and I'm just looking for any inputs on axle lengths. I realize the that the driver side is shorter but I haven't been able to find specific info on axle lenghts. I have seen that people have flipped cages, shortened the shafts, or widened the track. I am not interested in these options. I am just looking for measurements.
  4. My first car was an auto 280Z and it was sold on me while I was at school one day (for fear it was going to kill me being rwd). That trauma left me with the notion that I would own another one at some point... Never seriously looked at buying one but did dream about an RB**, VQ or L turbo (I'm turbo obsessed). Other cars came first though... I like hot hatches, ex wrc stuff and fast street cars. I had originally planned on putting a dual DC motor setup in front of a powerglide in my 200SX (after breaking too many ~1000hp 4 cylinder engines - unreliable pieces of shit) but over a year or so this idea turned into AC motor and then Telsa. After removing the subframe and fuel tank etc etc it just made more sense to me to do an electric Z where fuel fumes and rusty fuel lines and tanks etc etc may not be as easy problem to solve as with a newer 200SX. So I bought this 260Z 2+2 as a cruiser for "my son" and I in July last year and set out removing / documenting chassis wiring and a to do list for other things. I flew to another state and organised to go for a drive in a "100kw AC" powered old school hatch - just to see if the power level would be enough to satisfy me. It was very cool (my first ride in an electric car) but I knew it wasnt going to be enough unless mated to a clever / expensive gearbox - so Tesla it had to be. And the rear end setup of the Z seemed like it would work easy enough. I was on the hunt for a Tesla motor for a month or more and it was becoming quite painful to deal with wreckers. So I thought I would start by 3D printing the rear drive unit (there are 3D scanned models available for free which made it nice). Not long after getting this model ready for 4 prints on a small 3D printer, I called into a battery supplier to see if they had anything I might be able to use down the track (rather than use 16 or so second hand Tesla batteries). Turns out the business owner is a mad car enthusiast + electrical engineer, so a week later I got to watch a Tesla motor run up in a jig and I purchased this motor off them and it was in my garage ready for fitment into the 260Z. Being from Australia and having used MoTeC products in my other cars for nearly 20 years, I wanted to use as much MoTeC stuff as I could as it is very reliable and I am familiar with the products. I 3D printed up a mount for a MoTeC PDM30 to control power to the 12V "chassis items" and measured up what dash and keypad would fit where the auto shifter used to be. PDM is basically an electronic fuse box and contains a whole bunch of solid state relays and it can be controlled and communicated to by CAN via the dash. You can monitor all the current draws and no blown fuse problems. Also important to me being an EV car. I had a place in Sydney called Custom Garage modify my centre console to fit a MoTeC C1*5 display dash and 8 button keypad (don't mind the labels). I didn't want to do this as I really wanted it to look as original Z as possible on the inside and out but a) I feel naked driving a car without a MoTeC dash now and b) the dash is very important as it will be able to show all the 12V chassis item currents and also show the information from the EV items such as charger, HV battery pack, motor, DC-DC converter, cooling pump speeds and fluid temps, aircon power usage, wheel speeds, calculated RANGE, etc. I thought placing it down low in the centre was a reasonable compromise to keeping original appearance but also having the data there when I need it. I wanted to use a C185 version of the dash as this can perform more functions (and display 3 cameras) however I may end up using the simpler C125 version (one camera input - with some kind of video input switching box) and a MoTeC M1 ecu with custom firmware. Its root code kinda programming so easier for my mate at RNTechnologies / Powertune Australia to set up rather than trying to do what I want with the dash software. They're the biggest MoTeC dealer in Australia. I also sent the dash down to a place in Melbourne to be reskinned. It came back looking very nice. Anyway, I got started on removing the spare wheel well (with intention of replacing with a shallower version of this later) for ease of fitment of the Tesla drive unit. Then along came COVID-19 and the brakes were put on hard. I was not allowed to have my welder mates come over anymore (lockdown laws) and I had started a reno in my garage for more car space so I needed this thing back on the ground and rolling - and didnt want to delay the mounting process, so I had another mate who has a registered business come over (essential work for him) to finish the mounting bars so I could put the thing back down on the ground. I also ordered some rear uprights a while back from Apex Engineered to suit 370Z rear hubs as these have a similar (slightly larger) spline than Tesla shafts. I'm still waiting on suspension to arrive so I can measure and order the axles from Holinger Engineering and put her back on the ground. That'll do for now. Lots to go. Chassis wiring next + purchase (and mount) most of the HV accessories and last will be the batteries ($$$$$). Not for everyone I know but it is a 2+2 version (so in my mind I havent destroyed something SUPER special) and its just a cruiser (albeit should run a high 5 1/8 mile or low 10 1/4 mile) - and I own a collection of "fossil fuel fed dinosaur's" as well which I will never sell lol Back to work...
  5. I have 10-20k to spend on a clean car. Is anyone looking to sell? I'm willing to have it shipped to me or drive to pick up the car
  6. Hello Everyone. I am looking to purchase an S30 with a manual that is in decent shape. Don't care about model (Coupe or 2+2) or year. Just an S30. Not too much rust or no rust and something that runs. It can be ugly just want to not have to do tons of rust repair. I'm looking for a light project not a complete ground up overhaul. I'm located in Coal City, IL. My contact information is bkhansen93@gmail.com or 8154053050. Will be willing to speak to anyone who has something to sell. Just reach out to me.
  7. I'm highly interested in buying this 260z I found on craigslist. There is nearly no rust aside from some surface stuff on the hatches. It's a pretty clean car but there is a big dent on the passenger side fender. The current owner says it was (likely) a parking lot mishap from the previous owner. My question is how much would a replacement passenger side fender cost for a 260z? How much would it cost to replace it? Thanks!
  8. I see a few posts in here but I am looking for more specifics if anyone has any input or wants to try and convince me toward a direction go ahead but. I want to do a clean build (no junkyard shit) that I can take on road trips and whatnot, maybe on weekends and all that. I have heard horror stories of horrid MPG and being in the shitty state of CA id like to keep in the friendlier numbers of MPG. I am also not shy of HP so I was looking into RB26 swaps, Chevy V8, etc. Since I am a bit new am I going to run into shit with some setups, huge costs? Any info would be great or links to good posts.
  9. Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone could help me with a problem concerning my left front coilover. I have new T3 coilovers on the car along with camber plates that I installed relatively recently. I have maybe driven ~200 miles since the install, however I have noticed when turning left at low speeds (such as backing out of a parking spot), the spring and perch will bind causing a really loud "pop" noise. Please see linked video. Apologies if the size is large, I couldn't figure out how to change it. As you can see by the sharpie mark I made, the perch does not turn smoothly. It seems to bind and then pop with the spring into place. The popping noise is fairly loud and makes me look like a terrible owner haha 😭. I then jacked the car up and noticed that the spring is rubbing and has shaved off part of the threaded section. This is probably what is causing it to get stuck: I guess the spring is somehow misaligned between the upper and lower perches, but it seemed odd as the spring was properly seated on the lower perch when the car was loaded. I dropped the strut assembly and checked for straight alignment (which it looked perfectly fine), bolted it back in, and put sharpie on the threads to see if it would still rub. It still rubs!!! Anyone have any suggestions on what to do next? The popping and now the visible rub is making me not want to drive the car
  10. The higher pitch is me blipping the throttle. When coasting it's quite and on acceleration where the engine is actually pushing i.e. going down hill faster than gravity, it has this whine. The last transmission flush had an inch of shavings on the magnetic drian plug. I have a 4 speed 260z and a unknown welded diff. Plans to swap out to spare open diff. and swap in a 5 speed 240sx transmission. Any info on that swap would be helpful to have!!! PS 75mph is actually 60mph
  11. I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
  12. I'm doing some long overdue maintenance on 260z today. When I jacked up the rear end the left wheel wouldn't come off the ground so I had to put a block of wood on jack to get it up another 4 inches. In photo you can see the passenger side wheel is off the ground and suspension in a normal relaxed position. The driver side is about six inches lower and wheel is only 1/2 inch off the ground. The second photo shows the shock appears to have moved in the tube. This is new, haven't seen this before when working on the car. Anybody have any ideas on what has changed and why this is happening? The reason I have it jacked up is because the rear brake reservoir is empty so I'm tracking down where the leak is. May be related to this weird deal with the shocks or may be unrelated. Appreciate any thoughts, thanks!
  13. I purchased this dash over 5 years ago but never used it. I believe it was an alternative dash for use with Vela Rosa or Thunder Ranch GTO kits. Anyone have an idea of worth, or have a need? I'll probably ebay it. PM me with any thoughts
  14. I just bought some new headers for my 1974 260z, but they run into some transmission coolant lines. Does anyone know if I would be able to bypass these lines? Or what I could do to get around this problem? It's an automatic and I have removed the air conditioning. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The two horizontal lines in the second picture are what I am talking about.
  15. Hi guys. Been a lurker here forever! Picked up a 73 last summer and haven’t had the time to sort it out. Anyone recommend a tech or mechanic in the LI or metro NY area? Car came with triple webbers but seem to be wired up or lined up wrong. If you spray starter fluid, she fires up and sounds pretty damn good. But the throttle and the choke seemed to have been routed at the same line by the previous owner 😑🤨. I own a business and really have not had any time to just sort out the damn thing. Any direction to a trustworthy guy that can take this job on would be much appreciated. -Alex
  16. So over the weekend I finally found a decent 260z to start my build I've been wanting to do since about 2008. Like most z cars it has it's rust and it needs alot of stuff. But I was kind of looking for one with those needs. I don't have a ton of pics yet but I have started a little of the teardown. The second pic of it is after I got it home and into her new home.
  17. Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
  18. Anybody out there have this piece or a parts car they are willing to hack up? I need the lower right corner of the bumper/rear valance area from just under the right taillight with a bit of the rear right quarter panel. My car is a '73 but anything '70-'78 would probably work just fine. See pics for damaged area and what I would like to replace. I'm located in central California near Fresno. Hit me up with a price + shipping. Thanks and happy Z-ing.
  19. Looking for a clutch pedal for an s30. I think they are all the same. Thank you!
  20. Hey everybody! So eight months ago I bought my dream car for my dream project. It’s a 1974 Datsun 260Z, but it’s no ordinary 260z. Here goes the story. One night I was just browsing Craigslist, looking for a possible candidate for a special build. I came upon an ad that had few words and no pictures at all - pretty much just his name and phone number. The next day I gave him a call to get a little more info on the car, and he told me the story of how he bought it from a friend 10 years ago. His friend was at a gas station and accidentally tapped a pole - literally tapped, only leaving a small dent in the fender. He didn’t want to get it fixed so he sold it to his friend (the guy I bought it from). Right after receiving it he started to take the front end apart to do a V6 engine swap, but he blew his back out right as he got things apart. So for the past 10 years it has been sitting on jack stands in a shipping container, untouched. The car has (I kid you not) ZERO rust on the body. The only spot that will need attention is a circle on the passenger floorboard, no bigger than my fist. He decided to sell it due to medical bills and the such, and EVERYTHING he has goes with it. That includes a full 280z parts car, new weatherstripping, full interior, extra dashes, disk brake kits, bushings, g-nose, etc. etc. I went up there a few weeks later with a trailer and dug the car out from where it had sat for so long. I brought the car home, cleaned all of the rat turds out of it, then pushed it into the garage. That pretty much brings us up to date... I had done a few things like starting to pull the original motor apart, but nothing significant. For the most part the car has just been collecting dust for 8 months while I worked on other projects I had gotten myself into. One thing I forgot to mention is that the car is VIN #49. I know that collectability-wise the 240z is the most sought after, but it feels pretty special to have one of the first 50 cars sent to the US from a one year car. That brings me to the struggle of not knowing where to take this build - completely stock, lightly modified, or balls to the wall nuts. I'm still not 100% sure where I want to go with it but I think it'll be in the "lightly modified" range. In the end I think somewhere around 300hp would be perfect for this car and chassis. If some of you think that's still a bit much, I was originally considering around 800hp! So now you're really caught up on the project. Below is a video I made for my YouTube channel of me going over the car and explaining the project a bit. If you'd like to see video updates of the car subscribe to the channel! I'll try to update this thread but I primarily post on YouTube. Also, if you'd like to please share the video with all your car friends! I'm really trying to grow my channel and need all the eyes and support I can get. If you made it to the end, thanks for reading and enjoy the video! -Austin P.S. If you have a better project name than "The Datsun Build" than please let me know
  21. Hello fellow HybridZers, I'm looking for a whale tail for the S30s, hopefully in better condition than not. Willing to pay shipping from anywhere in the US, I am located in 92691. My phone is the best way to reach me, text or call. 949-939-7573. Thank you for your help in advance!
  22. Hey everyone! So I'm planning on picking up this 280zx Turbo next week. I want to use the engine, wiring harness, etc. for a turbo build for my 260z and I figured it'd be easier to buy the whole car than to piece everything together separately. Would anything else off this car be useful to me? The only thing is it's an automatic but I could find a 5 speed from an N/A? He's asking $1500, I'll post a link below and would love to hear what you think it's worth. Thanks! https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/d/1982-datsun-nissan-280-zx/6377046535.html -Austin
  23. After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  24. Hey guys so im having some reoccurring issues with my Z and im ready to burn the car to the ground at this point. So i bought the car almost a year ago and it was converted to just an electrical fuel pump when i got it. the car ran fine for a few months maybe like 5 or 6 i cant remember. Anyways one day the fuel pump started to go out so i replaced it with the K&N pump from MSA and that lasted about one month. So before i ruled that pump was no good i blew out the gas lines replaced all the filters and took a long look into the gas tank with a borescope btw such a fun tool to use. and found nothing out of the ordinary. I even rewired the whole pump putting my own relay in just so i could eliminate the electrical aspect. the pump ended up being bad and i replaced it and put a holley pressure regulator in it. the car runs good at 3 PSI. Well this started about a week ago where on hills in 4th the fuel will cut out. trust me i know exactly what it feels like by now. Now the fuel pressure barely builds past 1 PSI and if i give it gas the pump doesn't build anymore pressure it just uses up the gas in the lines and dies. So im kinda at a loss right now and the only thing i can think of doing is putting a mechanical fuel pump back on and replace the electrical again. Another option for me cuz im pretty sure the SUs arent balanced and i might just do the holley comversion cuz that was part of my plan anyways. PLZ HELP
  25. I have a 240z with rebuilt E88 head, rebuilt dome top su carbs and I just went from stock manifold with 2.5” exhaust pipe and cherry bomb muffler to a header. I kept the pipe and muffler as the weren’t stock anyway, I just added a flexible connection from the collector to the existing exhaust pipe. Actually now I wish I didn’t do this modification. It’s really noisy and I’m not sure that moving away from the OEM cast iron exhaust manifold was a good idea. It seemed to do the job... any comment on the performance improvements or lack there of? One other point - within 6 months I had a fuel leak right over the header pipes even with all new fuel lines. It totally cooked the new fuel lines from the float bowls to the jets. They were cracking and perished. Dangerous. I have since replaced the SU carb fuel lines with correct parts, and modified the heat shield with an additional aluminum plate which sits under the fuel hoses/jets. I also added some heat wrapping to the fuel lines. Makes tuning more of a chore, but gives me peace of mind. Anyone have a solution to the header noise issue? Add a resonator? Change the muffler to a better one? I can tig/mig weld so would buy parts online and do the install myself. I’m not a boy racer (nearly 60) and it sounds like an F1 car now when I put my foot down. Yeah, I know- some of you would think that was a ‘bonus’. Richard
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