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Found 146 results

  1. Looking for a fiberglass sides, aluminum blade Kaminari 3-Piece Wing. Anyone have a line? Pretty much at your price! Thanks.
  2. Hello all, I have searched low and high to no avail. I am upgrading to a 280zx alternator in my 75 280. I was following the diagram below and carried out with the white to yellow but had noticed that my volage regulator did not have the specified green and red. It appears that the pin hole of the voltage regulator for the G/R was capped from the factory. So I am hoping that there are some guys here that have figured something out for the 75s that could help me finish this up? Thank you in advance... Connect 1-5 (lamp to windings common) green&red to white&black Connect 2-3 (+12V to Sense) white to yellow
  3. Looking for mounts and housings at least for Fender Mirrors. Original equipment on Fairlady, 1979-1983. Thanks.
  4. Pac_Man

    Driveshaft ID

    Hi, I'm looking at a driveshaft I found and based on the pictures it looks like a T5 driveshaft that's been cut and shortened on one end. To my knowledge, they're the only ones that neck down at both ends, but this one only has that at one. It also has the square diff flange and seems to have a 26 spline tailshaft yoke based on the blurry picture I got. Can anyone tell me for sure that it is/isn't? Thanks.
  5. I'm rebuilding an l28et and noticed this injector looks off. At least the cap is missing, maybe more. Is it toast? I can't find anything to reference what it should look like without the cap. Thanks in advance. And a different injector for reference:
  6. I am building a turbo L28 engine stroked and bored to 3.1 litres with an upgraded turbo. I have the 1983 CAS dizzy driving my Microtech ECU and Igniter box. I don't have the wiring harness for the dizzy that has the Green, black, red, white wires from the dizz going to Gr/Ye, Black, Bl/Wh, Gr/Bl wires in the EFI harness. I have read every post on this and there are some that describe the connections that correspond on the dizz end to the colours BUT there isn't one that correlates with another, in other words there are CONFLICTING posts. So I really need to get the correct way round. Here are the options I have seen. Looking at the dizzy four spade male connector box with the screw hole for fastening the harness on the top left corner.(see pic): One post says starting at top left going clockwise: Red, Green, Black, white. Second post says (same rotation) : Green, Red, Black, White. Also, if I am reading the FSM correctly it agrees with post one above. Can anyone Please help and confirm which is correct? Many thanks guys. Andy
  7. EDIT - I am willing to trade it for a quality set of standard (non-wide) ZG Flares. I imported this classic EVA wing from Japan a couple years back. This is a real EVA wing and not the cheaper knockoff. It's in mint condition (not a scratch on it but has obviously has been painted). I don't think this is the look I'm going for so, I'll finally let it go if someone wants it. If not, it's going to look awesome on my display shelf. The price is $330 Shipped in the US 48 states (you'd pay more to import one in rough condition). It'd be kind of a waste for it to become a shelf topper so, if anyone is going for this particular classic Japanese street fighter look, this would be a good addition. I will entertain any reasonable offer. Attached some reference photos in case you're unfamiliar with the EVA wing.
  8. Hey Zers! Well its come time to turn my stroker 280zx into a stroker turbo..right now i have 10:1 CR. I plan to install forged J.E Dished pistons and a 2.5mm HG. this should bring my comp down to a low enough leval to turbo charge.my biggest concern is going with an aftermarket EFI..im running tripple 44 mikunis right now.im thinking of using the N42 non-EGR intake manifold and a 70mm TB.greedy boost controller.Megasquirt 2,MSD 6-2.t3/t4 turbo,720cc injectors.blow off valve/waste gate etc..im wondering what sensors are needed to use megasquirt for my fuel control only.am i able to use MS for fuel only and use MSD 6 for my spark control? if this works,can someone please give me a short write up as to how to go about setting this up.im pretty new to EFI as i grew up with carbs (and im 21). Please,any insight on this would be great. P.S- I plan to run 17-20lb boost MAX! thanks~ Randall
  9. I'm looking for a 280ZXT manual transmission crossmember. Looks similar to the normal 280ZX transmission crossmember but I think it bumps out a little horizontally instead of just being the straight U shape.
  10. What kind of problems will I have swapping a 3.6L V6 323hp), 6 speed automatic transmission, independent rear suspension, front suspension, brakes and lines instrument panel, and fuel tank from a 2012 v6 camaro into a 280zx? Please list any solutions as well I know this may be complicated but if you can put an ls3 in one this can't be to much more difficult
  11. Hello everyone, I recently took the engine out of my 280ZX to repaint the engine bay and replace some parts on the engine. I have the engine placed back in the car and the starter is working. It sounds like it wants to start when I put starter fluid in throttle body and I am getting fuel pressure before the pressure regulator on the fuel rail. I am not getting any fuel pressure on the other side though. Is there anything I can do or do I have to just replace the regulator.
  12. Hey guys, I'm in the process of putting my head back together and it seems along the way I lost a washer. It's the inner valve seat washer that sits on the lip below the valve stem seal. There's a larger washer that sits down underneath it. I haven't been able to find them online anywhere so I'm trying here. Hopefully someone has one. - Brandon
  13. hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall
  14. Hey all, I was reading a post from G.I.Jonas from 2007 about a vg30dett swap into a 280 and I was reading through it trying to gather as much info about the swap before I started posting asking about this. So I have a 79 280zx and an 86 300zx, the 300 is wrecked frame damage wont be fixed ever again but I'm lucky cause the engine didn't take any damage aside from the radiator. blocks fine everything's golden on it. I have a real tight budget but a lot of willing people to help me with this build with a lot of skills, really skilled welders that are close friends and do good work for ridiculously cheap. But anyhow I wanted to originally boost on my l28 but I found out I have the n42 block and n47 head and that not the build I wanted, I wanted the f54 and p90a build but didn't have the stuff. Now I came up with crazy idea that everyone agreed they wanted to help me with, taking everything I can from my wrecked 300 and throwing it into the 280. So on that note the post from gi was on a vg30dett I have the vg30et in my 300 low miles strong engine and trans, I haven't done a swap like this before so I wanted to ask everyone on here what they think I need to do, G.Is post didn't have much info just picture and explanations not what he needed to change etc. I read that the stock steering needed to be changed cause it wont work but that's about it. I got someone who can do the custom mounts but what I'm trying to figure out is what all I need to do. This is what I'm assuming. Custom Mounts Wiring harness Steering Differential Axels? Transmission mounts? Ecu from 300 Custom driveshaft? or can I use the one off the 300? I'm just shooting to complete the swap on what motor, trans, parts I have off my 300 not shooting for performance build yet just getting the swap done. What else should I look into? Where should I start? What should I keep in mind when planning this out. Like I said I got the people to help and I have the tools. I'm also thinking I need to figure the measurements for creating the mounts. Any other ideas on what I should do. If someone could reply with something to help me out that would be awesome. Thank you all!
  15. I am in need of a clean 280zx exhaust manifold for the P79 head. A stud broke and I have clamped down that side just to be able to drive it short distances but it may have a small leak causing excessive noise that makes it hard to listen for any unwanted sounds during my engine break-in period. Needs to be leak free and broken stud free. I am open to headers if you can cut a good deal on them as long as they relatively new, come with adapter, and are from MSA's newer batches of headers, since I know a few Z guys in my area who bought them when they first came out and found them to be less than satisfactory (apparently MSA did some work and updated their product). I will pay shipping as well on any purchases.
  16. Hey Zers, My Dad passed a little over a year ago and in doing so, told me to take care of his old Z. its an 82 280zx n/a. well,i didn't no to much about cars at the time but i know he said to keep the engine that was in it (didn't have to be stock). so after much reading and tons of "old Mechanic" advice,iv since rebuilt the entire engine. here is what i have done "surprisingly my self" so far.... Head (work done by Rebello) - N42 head, bigger valves,port,polished,some work done to the galleys for coolant and oil. Valve Train - Custom cam 512 Lift, 300 Duration, Stiff springs, new Rocker Arms/Lash pads.new timing sprocket/chain. Block- 0.60 over,JE Flat Top Pistons,Lightened and balanced crankshaft,new Barrings. CR- just at or slightly under 11:1 on 93 Octane, Timing *19 Int and *38 Full at WOT. (No Ping!) 220-240 psi Ignition- Modified Distributor (New Dizzy and Dizzy shaft), Full MSD 6AL-2 Ignition with Blaster-2 Coil Intake- Triple 44 Mikuni Carburetors Exhaust- MSA 3-2-1 Headers into a 2.75 inch,no Cat,Dynojet Ultra flow muffler. Drive Train- Auto to N/A 1983 5 speed,Aluminum flywheel/Drive-shaft, R200 4.11 Differential from 200sx Other- Turbo oil pump,new alternator, new battery,New *Champion 4 core Aluminum Radiator, Tires- Rear : 245-60-14 fronts are 205-60-14 -- Well that's pretty much it.i gutted the dash,all A/C HVAC stuff,no spare tire,12lb race seats,11lb CF hood, Custom Aluminum bumpers (look stock),all digital oil,fuel.air ratio,volts gauges.Steel pillar louvers from 81' ZX as well as the 130mph speedo. I havent had it on a dyno yet for max tuning or ran the track but it takes my buddies mildly modified 86' FoxBody Stang all day until i hit 135-140 mph,then wind resistance goes to s**t..but i can max out my speed around 6,800 in 5th gear,7,000 with some tuning im sure. 0-60 times are crazy,1st hits 38mph like intantly and 2nd hits 58mph not much slower,3rd hits around 80 pretty fast,4th is like my OLD 3rd but tops around 110-115 (speedo isnt to accurate around 100 so) 5th pulls nice all the way to redline. Post comments and let me know what you think. Estamated HP? P.S- Going from my auto gear of 3.54 to the 200sx diffy of 4.11 was an incredibly large difference in acceleration,car sounds like a F*****g Indie car lol! also vary streetable with the big cam and lower geared diff. wasn't to fun on the street with the 3.54 and that cam profile.
  17. Hey, new to this forum, so sorry if i do not post this in the correct place. I just purchased a 280zx 2+2 that is in pretty poor condition. No rust or anything, but the whole interior was shot, and no keys to the vehicle. I also believe that all the wiring was shot on it. So I started ripping out all the interior upholstery, which is now finished. I don't have a whole lot of money so now I"m posed with the question: Rebuild the stock L28ET or buy an engine to swap into it. + So that's what I am wondering. I'm not that good with engines but I'm willing to learn, and I'm very excited to see what you guys have to say on this. Also, this 280 is going to be a drift car, so there is no intention on putting it on the street, or having things that are street legal on it. I'm hoping to get a running turbo charged engine in it soon, but for now I'm working on interior safety and cosmetics until i get some help on the engine plan. Please help! It will be much appreciated. Update 7/5/2014 : full car is gutted and I've been engine shopping. I don't have tons of money but everyone who doesn't say drop a 350 in it says that the rb26det is the way to go, so its looking like that. Although, i think my engine is salvage able i just don't know how to build it back up! so here are 10 photos from when i first bought the car, ill try to put all of 'em in there. Still, no replies and I'm struggling here guys. Please help.
  18. Hello all, My name is Allen, I am in need of a transmission for my 78 280z, and I am located in NC.I would like to find a '80 280zx 5 speed, but anything (other than a 4 speed) that will fit in the car and maybe have a bit better gearing would be lovely. Any help would be appreciated! Allen G.
  19. Greetings, Looking for a Turbo Exhaust Manifold for an L28 Engine. I am located in Los Angeles County and willing to pick up from Orange County, San Fernando Valley and San Gabriel Valley. Thanks for your help. JD
  20. All parts removed from an '83 ZX. For the battery tray, I drilled out all the spot welds to get it out. Just needs a quick sandblast to remove the surface rust and it should be good to go. Asking $15 plus shipping. The gas tank itself has been scrapped, but the straps remain. Complete with j-bolts and rub strips. Asking $10 for the pair plus shipping. The armrests are in great shape, no cuts or splits. Asking $15 for the set plus shipping.
  21. I am trying to restore a 1979 280ZX coupe. I am looking for the apron and grill pieces that that go below the front bumper on the 280zx. The people who owned it before me put an aftermarket piece on it and I want to make it original. I am also looking for a The part numbers are below new oem master cylinder or a rebuild kit. The part numbers are listed below: Master Cylinder: 46010-P6500 Grill: 62300-P7101 Apron: 62652-P7100 Apron Sides: LH 62613-P7100 RH 62612-P7100
  22. Everything is from a 1983 280ZX with 3N71B auto trans. Complete, uncut wiring harness: The sticker on the computer reads A11-654 806. Some of the connectors from the engine bay have UV damage, but everything else is in great shape. Asking $80 plus shipping. Window motors next.. I tested them after they were out of the car, and they can power themselves freely in each direction. Asking $15 ea. plus shipping. Finally, the distributor. I installed this D6K8 dizzy on my own 240Z and verified that it works perfectly fine. This came out of a '83 ZX. Probably noticed by now that it has an E12-93 matchbox module. I've been running one of these for years now on my own 240Z. It was what I had on hand when an E12-80 failed on me. When the later modules are wired correctly, they work just as well as an E12-80. Just need to run 1 extra wire, and I've posted about it before. Glad to share how to do it. Asking $80 plus shipping.
  23. Earlier this week at work someone showed me this 280zx police car transformer: http://www.amazon.com/Takara-Transformers-Masterpiece-Nissan-Fairlady/dp/B00FFXBJ66/ref=pd_bxgy_t_img_z I don't know why I never knew about them before. (I work at a toy company) Upon further investigation they also have a couple variations including a bob sharp racing livery. There are 3 in total and I may have to acquire them all at some point. The price is a bit steep but after holding them they are noticeably top notch. Here are the other two: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Piece-MP-Streak-Completed/dp/B00BQRKX76/ref=pd_bxgy_t_img_y http://www.amazon.com/Takara-Transformers-Masterpieces-MP-19-Smokescreen/dp/B00DDE09AQ/ref=pd_bxgy_t_img_y Complete with fender mirrors!
  24. Hi everyone, I wanted to make a little "how to" for how I reupholstered the T-top inserts (dont know the actual name) on my 280zx. I had already completed the part once, but thanks to a sick cat, I had the pleasure of doing it again. Since I was going to do it all over again, I figured I could at least document it, with a few little tips I figured out myself (that apply to other interior pieces as well). I know when I first started messing around with interiors, I had trouble finding information, so I am hoping someone may find this useful. I will be doing my sun visors soon, if anyone wants a write up, let me know. First off, the part has to be removed, FSM or just looking at it should explain how it comes off, mine was already off and not installed (and covered in cat hair and snot): The first thing you want to do is remove the existing fabric, the plastic pieces are attached with pegs that fit through holes then are melted: take a knife and you can snap them pretty easily to get the parts off (I'll discuss putting them back on later): Most of these pieces on our cars is just chip board with a vinyl attached using adhesive, rivets, and staples, the staples in this case need to be removed: Now remove the material: Vinyl usually comes off relatively easy, be careful not to destroy the chipboard piece, since I used headliner material on mine....it tore apart and was a little more difficult, to make it easier you can use acetone and a knife to scrap the stuff off (works really well for headliner pieces). Once done you should have a "clean" part: If you are recovering with vinyl, you may want to run coarse sand paper over the piece to make sure and get everything even and all original fabric off. Any little piece left can be seen or felt through vinyl. I purchased some headliner fabric at Joannes, it's really easy to work with and relatively inexpensive. Lay the part on the fabric and cut to size...well, close to size: I prefer Super 77 for attaching light fabrics, it is somewhat forgiving and, if used correctly, makes a pretty strong bond. I coat both the fabric and the part in glue and let set for about ten minutes until they are both tacky then stick them together: Check to make sure that there are no large bumps in the surface and that it looks nice and even: If it looks good, trim off the excess on the parts where the fabric sits flush and the other edges keep about half an inch to a quarter of fabric hanging over so that it can be securely fastened to the bottom. The Super 77 and other spray adhesives I have used are all really good at clinging to surfaces, as long as there are not too many bends or complex curves, but if there are they seem to want to release over time. My solution to this is Weldwood contact cement, my personal choice, there are others that work just as well I am sure. You can attach the excess to the back of the part using staples if you wish, but I could not find any more really shallow staples, so I went ahead with my contact cement. I added the cement to the excess fabric on either side and to the back of the part itself. (not very noticeable) Then I waited about thirty minutes for it to become quite tacky and rolled the excess onto the part as tightly as I could. Normally you would want to start from the middle and work your way out, since this was a smaller piece it really didn't make that big a difference. Let this set while you go and tend to your plastic pieces. . . . . . . .. . This feels like one long run on sentence, sorry for that, . Now to the plastic pieces, I had cut the little pegs off of the parts, now I need to fix that so that I can reattach them. First you need materials: I could not find ABS rods, but I was able to find 1/8th inch styrene rods, a plastic "glue" a power drill with ~1/8th inch bit..some flexibility here and the part. The glue is actually a solvent, Instead of sticking the pieces together it actually "welds" them. It dissolves the plastic into a paste, when it evaporates out you are left with a rigid plastic once again. If you have a crack in a plastic, or a chip, you can dissolve some shavings with the solvent and use it as a filler, just do not go on too thick or the solvent cannot dissipate and it will look horrible. I use to use acetone for attaching a lot of plastics, it works extremely well for acrylic, but doesn't seem to hold as well on abs and other automotive plastics (for me). This particular solvent is mostly MEK based, which you could buy at most home improvement stores, MEKP is used as a catalyst for lower end fiber glass resins and I have heard that it works to weld plastics, but I have never tried it myself. Take the piece and locate where the peg was, then drill this area out Spot found Be very careful to not go completely through the piece, we are just trying to increase the surface area that is being contacted as well as aid in holding the peg in place long enough to stick. You should end up with a shallow divot Now add a large drop of solvent into this hole and let set for a few seconds While the solvent is setting, go ahead and cut a piece of the rod off, longer is better than shorter, usually I start with a little under a 1/4" Now shove the peg into the divot, twist it so that it will conform to the shape of the divot then hold it in place a good twenty or so seconds, until you can let go and it does not move: Now add some more solvent around the base of the peg, I like to push shavings around the base to build it up a little and hopefully make it a little stronger: That's one down, now go ahead and do the rest. I sometimes take my chances with the original pegs if they were not broken completely off, but it is probably best to go ahead and replace them all. I let the solvent do it's magic for a little bit then I do a test fit to make sure that the pegs line up with the holes on the part, as long as you do not wait too long (time varies with conditions), you can still move them around a little. Then I let them set overnight..because that's what the bottle says to do. . . . . . Next day: The best part, putting it all back together. Take the pieces you have added pegs to and put them in their appropriate places and trim the pegs down a little (if needed): ] Now take a soldering iron, wood burning tool, hot piece of metal, whatever works and melt the pegs to the part. I use a small butane torch and spoon....which is probably not the most innocent looking way of doing this....I heat the spoon up then press it to the peg until it melts flat. Be careful when melting the pegs, they can catch fire, the fabric is flammable as well. Once done it should look like this (or hopefully better): Continue for all the pieces you removed, also give a little strength check to make sure everything is holding firm. As long as everything is holding well and it looks good, you are done, now all that's left is installing it back into your car. I hope this helps some one. In the mean time I'm going to continue with my interior and slowly customizing everything.
  25. Greetings. With the lack of a Fender Mirror template for S130 on Google Image search, thought I'd make one, submit it, and let the Interwebz do its thing. These are two sources of Mirror locations I've gotten. Anyone really disagree? Thanks for any input.
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