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Showing results for tags 'L28'.
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker at Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker next to 1970 Mustang Grande with 351 Cleveland -
From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
1975 280Z with stroker at Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee -
Hello all from Australia, Long time browser, first time poster here because I finally can't find the information I'm looking for! First off, my name's Adam and I have a 1973 240z which is currently running a standard L28, N42 head/block combo, with brand new triple 45mm OER carburetors, and Trust headers to a twin 2" exhaust system. I have just installed a new set of OER carbs I purchased from Japan and am having difficulties sorting out the idle/low speed cruise setting. Bit of details into the setup, 45mm carbs 34mm venturis #190 air correctors (not yet tested to see if these are the best) #130 mains #60 idles #40 pump nozzle #1.8 needle valve 3.5psi fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump into Holley regulator 31mm fuel level using the OER level gauge. Idle screws are setup so that the first progression hole is just 100% covered looking through the brass cap/inspection hole. Carbs are balanced the best I can using a unisyn. I have a wide-band O2 sensor probe in the tail pipe. I am running 98 octane fuel. Timing is at 15 BTDC with no vacuum advance connected. Valve clearances have recently been adjusted. Now, onto the problem I am having.. Driving with the #60 idles installed, 1 full turn of the mixture screw turned out, slow acceleration and cruise is very rich, 10.5 and 11.5 AFRs respectively. I also have #50 idles on hand which I have installed to try and improve the current rich scenario and I cannot even get them to idle. With mixture screws out 1.5 full turns (recommended range is only 3/4 to 1 full turn), they cannot idle on their own, only when I blimp the throttle which I believe is activating the pump jets. With the #50s installed, AFRs are off the scale in the lean area. They can't idle let alone drive. My question is, is going down from a #60 to a #50 idle jet that big of a jump that the car can no longer idle on its own? Or is there something wrong with my idle screw setup? I would have thought that with the #50s installed, it would at least idle and drive albeit a tad lean.. OER offer a #55, but I would like to double check with the experts out there first before spending that money. Any help would be appreciated. And please let me know if I am missing some information, I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Adam
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Found what I was looking for. Thanks everyone. Moderators, I wish to close this thread.
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From the album: 1974 260Z
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From the album: 1974 260Z
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Deleted for inaccuracy / insufficient information.
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Hello All I need a good 3 pulley harmonic balancer for a L28. Anyone have one they don't need?
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I've searched the forum but haven't found a definite answer. Here's what I want to do. I have a stock L28, Im gonna go with an aftermarket fuel pump (MSD 2225 is on my list but i'd like suggestions for another one that's adjustable and reliable in case I do an engine swap in the future) Then the line will lead to Pallnet's fuel rail (http://pallnet.webs.com/) But here's where im stuck; I'd go ahead and get the standard barbed rail to use stock injectors, but since mine need replacing anyway I could get different injectors. I know there are lots of options (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/52695-fuel-injector-upgradesswap/) but i dont want to have to change anything else (control module or air flow meter) I'm curious about the turbo supra 440's people are talking about, can i put those in (with Pallnet's 11mm o-ring rail) just like that, no other changes? or does anything else need to be adjusted to work? wil the higher cc throw the mix off? I think those supra injectors are also low impedance. Is that all fine and dandy or, what exactly do I have to do to complete the mod?
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My daughter blew the motor in her 76 280z this past weekend. Machine Shop wants two grand just for the block work. I need a good 75-78 L28 block I can rebuild. I can pick up in Kansas, Oklahoma, or Arkansas. Car is in Kansas now. Cash money! Call me 479-866-9667 please if you have a long block or a good used motor sitting around. Thanks!
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I have a few LD28 motors I am parting out. I'm looking for full coilover set for my '73, new intercooler, sti r180 rear end, t3 ball bearing no shaft play. Cylinder head, valve cover and exhaust manifold. -50$ ea Bare block -80$ ea (ill throw in the pistons, rods, and bearings) Injector Pumps, hardlines, and injectors -150$/set (1 left) V07 crankshaft -900$ obo (1 left) Intake manifold -200$ (largest runner diameter of all L series manifolds) Rancho Cucamonga, CA Call or text 909-708-7671
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Just as the title says. How much power can i produce from my turbo L31 stroker with L24 rods and Ross pistons before i need to start worrying about a rod giving in? I am looking to produce somewhere in the 400HP region with a lot of mid range torque. Thinking about installing H-beam or X-Beam rods instead, but only if it requires me to do so.
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Here pictured is the spec card from the cam in the motor that will be going into my car. I have ridden around in the donor car, and it seems to run fine. However, the .480/.480 lift and .274/.274 cam profile seems to match that of a Schneider stage 2 NA cam as sold through MSA. I believe that the overlap on this cam is 54* and I know that less overlap on a turbo is better, I am just ignorant as to how much is acceptable, and the opinions out there seem to conflict. The MSA/Schneider Turbo Stage 1 has only 27*, but jeffp in another post says that he runs 54* and it works fine. I don't have a very free exhaust flow, just your standard turbo exhaust manifold to a T04E 60 to a 3in to a Monza tip. This car is for the street, but hope to run 15psi. Priority 1 is not blowing my motor, priority 2 is power. I know there is a lot of info and discussions on cams out there. What I am looking for are answers specific to my application. In short, should I run this head as is? Would I just be better off selling this N42 and getting a rebuilt stock P90 with a stock cam? If I go that far should I go ahead and get a stage 1 or 2 turbo cam with it? Thanks!
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The title says it pretty well, I stumbled across the right engine, and I just need the surge tank to make it all work. Let me know what you have got! -
Hi im new to this forum but just the other day I got my first 280z. When I bought the car I knew it would be a project but I thought mechanically there was nothing wrong the previous owner swapped a new l28e and a new 5speed with 50k on both. With that being said I was doing a speed run the other day and after taking my z to 100 the power curve seemed shaky like after 80mph I would get bursts of highter power and then a lull of power. Now the problem hasgotten much worse, when I get upto 4000rpm it feels like the car is fuel cutting and randomly while I drive I just get what feels like complete fuel starvation. I think it might be either the afm or the tps but I was wonderin if anybody else has had this problem. There are new wires and plugs, new fuel filter, and injectors, and from what I can tell decent fuel pressure. I also started the car and it seemed like one of the cylenders want firing... maybe somethin to do with ignition timing? -thanks
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Hey Zers! Well its come time to turn my stroker 280zx into a stroker turbo..right now i have 10:1 CR. I plan to install forged J.E Dished pistons and a 2.5mm HG. this should bring my comp down to a low enough leval to turbo charge.my biggest concern is going with an aftermarket EFI..im running tripple 44 mikunis right now.im thinking of using the N42 non-EGR intake manifold and a 70mm TB.greedy boost controller.Megasquirt 2,MSD 6-2.t3/t4 turbo,720cc injectors.blow off valve/waste gate etc..im wondering what sensors are needed to use megasquirt for my fuel control only.am i able to use MS for fuel only and use MSD 6 for my spark control? if this works,can someone please give me a short write up as to how to go about setting this up.im pretty new to EFI as i grew up with carbs (and im 21). Please,any insight on this would be great. P.S- I plan to run 17-20lb boost MAX! thanks~ Randall
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i'm looking for (4) L28 dished pistons. standard size 86mm. if you have some used ones laying around, pm a brother. i might even buy all 6. you know, just to have a couple extra.
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I've had my 280z for about 7 months now and it was running strong until one day I was changing the spark plugs and I stripped the port so long story short I just brairly fixed the thread on the spark plug port and got the spark plug in and hooked up the battery and the gauge only read 12 volts so I hooked up the jumper cables to see if it will move but nothing and now the car just doesn't want to start any help btw 1976 280z stock l28
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Greetings, Looking for a Turbo Exhaust Manifold for an L28 Engine. I am located in Los Angeles County and willing to pick up from Orange County, San Fernando Valley and San Gabriel Valley. Thanks for your help. JD -
New poster here... Just installed a new motor in the 71 240: F54/N47, comp cams 280s cam, 3x 40dcoe, headers, exedy regular clutch, flywheel from my l24, new timing kit, carter p4070, Holley 12-804 reg, mallory dist from l24. Also replaced 4 speed with 5 speed close-ratio. Using fork and collar from 240 trans because whatever collar came with 280 was too long and slave cylinder couldn't be mounted. The car makes a very odd sonar, red alert sound. It happens with the clutch pedal out and minor revs. Doesn't seem to increase with engine speed. Sounds like it's coming from the bell housing area... Strange. Also, I had to cut the tunnel/console to fit the shifter. Not needed with close-ratio?? Not so fast! I think the trans has an older bell housing on it. Serial 7y1594(1?). Oy. Gears 2 and 3 are mighty close, it must be the right tranny. New redline mt90 in the trans, too. Next problem: Carter pump mounted by tank, constant 12v. No need for regulator? Yeah right. Carbs poured gas out right away! Installed low pressure Holley 12-804 after filter in engine bay. Fuel pressure okay on initial startup, I checked it after a min and it was creeping up past 7psi. Adjust reg, no difference. Not running a return. Fuel is fed to carbs via 5/16" line. I thought these pumps had a bypass that would send gas back to the tank? I'll upload a short video of the sound ASAP.
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Hi, I'm fairly new to this forum and the world of Z's, but I'm hoping for some advice on what to attempt next. I picked up a '73 240z with a large list of modifications, including the SU carbs from a '72, and a "fresh built" l28 engine and head. I've done a small set of fixes and minor modifications to get it running, but as of yet have only had momentary success, and I have a suspicion that the electrical is to blame for the behavior. I've got a Pertronix electric points system installed, with the flamethrower coil that accomponies it, and have confirmed I'm getting a spark. I just replaced the old fuel pump and have it measured at about 3.5psi, checked for any obvious vacuum leaks, put new gaskets on the floater bowls on the carbs, and played with the timing to see if that was the issue, but no luck. I've managed to get it started and idling, but only once, and after no changes, it refuses to again for more than a few seconds. I've tried with and without the ballast resistor, and am going to try some new plugs today, but I just can't seem to pinpoint the issue. Are there any obvious fixes I'm looking over that could be suggested, or common problems I might have looked over? I desperately want to get this beautiful old car back on the road, and would hugely appreciate any and all suggestions. Let me know what information/pics I can provide to help, and thank you in advance. -
Hello, I own a 76 280z which is all bone stock, and the clutch is starting to really slip, almost undriveable, and a friend of mine offered me, his used clutch which is almost new, the reason being hes going to be making about 600-700 hp on his ls1 swapped 300z. But he offered me to have his old clutch because he just ordered a new racing clutch for his car, which was about 1700-2000$ and I was just wondering if a RB25 clutch would fit with the L28 transmission?? Thanks in advance.
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Hello, I am in need of a few factory nissan/datsun parts for my 1977 280z. I am doing a factory restoration and would like to keep it all original parts if possible. Factory air intake tube everything before throttle body except AFM. This includes stock blue airbox/hoses Braket for fuseable links Braket for Carbon Canister and a Carbon Canister Braket for AFM 4 bolt on the bottom of AFM Almost all Brakets that are on the passanger side of the engine bay Stock Radiator -This is off an automatic car with A/C If you are doing a part out of a 280z and have alot of miscellaneous engine bay hardware that you cant get rid of let me know. zspeed22@gmail.com or PM me on here.
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Hello, I am after 4 separate switches/relays that are on the passenger side of the car. If you look at the attached picture I have circled in red what I need. Pressure SW. (A/C Only) Magnet Valve-Vacuum Source (A/C Only) Compressor Relay (A/C Only) Starter Relay w/pigtail harness (Automatic Trans Only) This is based off a 1977 280z with an automatic transmission and A/C. Please PM me if you have anything or email me at zspeed22@gmail.com. Thanks,
