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Showing results for tags 'S30'.
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From the album: 71 240z
Decided to refurbish the front valance as much as I can. First ever bondo job.-
- datsun 240z
- 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
The mechanical pump started to leak due to a cracked diaphragm so I decided to swap in an electric K & N pump. I need to upgrade the coil and wires now though.-
- datsun 240z
- 240z
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(and 3 more)
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Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
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After kicking around many ideas I decided to go with an external surge tank and external pumps to feed the fuel rail of my rb25det in my 240z. I tried an intank fuel pump previously. The intank pump is the way to go for sure as long as you have adequate baffling and good general design. My problem stemmed from a poor design and using a rusty tank a buddy gave me. I started a thread on that. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94261-bonks-efi-fuel-tank/ I will update that thread with some lessons learned soon. Luckily I still had the original tank I pulled out of the car at the start of my project. It had a little rust, the local radiator shop was able to clean it out using acid and hot tanked it ($89). The key to my project is that there are no modifications to the stock tank. I chose to use the bcbroncos product, Accumulator Tank, ( http://www.bcbroncos.com/fuelefi.html ) scroll to the bottom the page. The tank is a converted remote oil filter. The guys at bcbroncos use this tank for their EFI conversions (if the customer does not want to spring for the intank solution). Fuel goes in the top, pass through the filter, there is a pickup tube that extends to the bottom of the filter where the fuel is picked up by the HP pump. bcbroncos added a third fitting (5/16ths) to the top of the modified oil filter to manage the return system (see tee fitting in website image). You plumb the return from the engine to one side of the tee and the return to the tank to the other side. I am feeding the surge tank with a low pressure Airtex 8016S pump. On the engine side of the surge tank is a high pressure Walbro GSL392 pump. The obvious problems with this kind of are the following: 1) Mounting everything (there aint much room) while staying away from the exhaust and the suspension and anything else that moves (rips). 2) Return Pressure Part A - there must be free flow from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to the tank. If the system lacks enough return capacity (adequate fuel line inside diameter), pressure can build up in the surge tank. In this case that is not an option because the tank is nothing more than a thread on filter. People have reported problems with their bcbroncos accumulator tanks leaking. I suspect that is because they did not have adequate return capacity to the tank and pressure built up inside the surge tank. 3) Return Pressure Part B* - if there is not free flow after the FPR then the HP pump has to work under load and will get HOT! = BAD for pump and WIRE! If the HP pump is working hard and getting hot then the WIRE feeding it juice is getting HOT. 4) Noise of external pumps (live with it) * - source Tony D. 1) After looking around the back of the car for a while I found a cluster of three threaded holes. I made a plate (1/8-inch) and threaded M6 hardware into the holes. I use the plate as a base to weld an extension out of some small box tubing. This was needed to move everything away from the Mustache Bar. I welded another plate to the box tubing, drilled to accept the surge tank and pump mounting plate (16-gage sheet metal). 2) After exchanging emails with Tony D, I was convinced that I needed to increase my return capacity to the tank. I already replaced the little pinner 3/16ths return line with 5/16ths when the drivetrain was out. But the stock tank has that 3/16ths return above the 5/16ths pickup. I decided to swap my usage of the 3/16ths return line with the smaller top of tank vent line (@ 5/16ths or a little bigger. At this point you simply need to make a 3 to 5/16ths adapter to plump the stock return to the vent tank. 3) After doing some research on the amp draw of the pumps and exchanging emails with Yury at Wiringspecialties.com we decided that I would be OK running both pumps over the stock 10-guage wire that runs from the back of the car near the tank (Nissan ran it back there to allow for an optional electric fuel pump on the carburated cars) to the front (Green wire). I am monitoring the wire (grabbing it to see if it gets hot) as I've running the cat over the last few weeks and have felt to heat at all. The Walbro has never gotten hot at all. The LP pump gets warmish, but not hot. 4) The Airtex pump makes a lot of noise (grumble) at idle. Can't hear it when you are underway. It doesn't bother me. Priming the system, I disconnected the power and ground to the Walbro and cycled the car in the ON position running the LP pump. I waited until I heard gas falling from the vent fitting back into the tank. I connected the HP pump back up and went for it. Damn thing started right up. Crazy. The Bad/weird part. When I shut the car off the LP pump continues to run for a second or two. I have a an inline fuel pressure gage in the engine bay. After I turn the car off it reads @ 25 psi pre-rail. After 20 minutes or so the pressure bleeds off. I am concerned this may not be good for the FPR. BUT the remnant pressure is great for one thing, starting the car back up. When I had my intank setup. I had to prime the system in the ON position everytime I started the car. Now, no need, the fires right up on the the first crank everytime. Thanks for reading. Bonk
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- unmodified fuel tank
- rb25det
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From the album: 71 240z
I'm not sure how I missed this but my Z came with headers! -
From the album: 71 240z
I discovered that my Z came with a K&N air filter. -
From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
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From the album: 71 240z
I picked up my new 1971 Datsun 240z this weekend 06/17/2017 and getting ready to bring her to her new home. -
Version V1
48 downloads
Simple roll center calculator for the Z car based on measuring the angle of the control arm. I tried to list all the definitions and assumptions. Please drop me a comment if you see any errors or improvements. I checked it against my professional software and got the same values when using the same inputs so I think the math is correct.-
- Roll Center Calculator
- S30
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I am rebuilding a 1978 280Z and was planning all along to pretty much buy all of the suspension items available from T3, minus perhaps the coilovers since I wanted to go with BG Racing. I want to do a 2JZ swap with maybe a Z32 transmission and want it to be a fun street car. I will not be doing any drag racing or drifting as I do not want to beat the crap out of the car after all the work I will be doing restoring it. Recently I met a gentleman who had the S13 subframe installed and who claimed I couldn't go wrong with either set up but that the S13 subframe would give me way more options for upgrades as well as flexibility and adjustability. He also claimed it would be cheaper, unless I had to pay a shop to do the labor, which I would since I do not know how to weld. I contacted 2 companies that sell suspension items for the S30 and asked them their opinion on the pros/cons of the S13 subframe vs T3 stuff. This was their response: 1st company: "As far as I know, there is no mount kit for putting a complete S13 subframe under the car.....for good reason. The S13 subframe is fairly complex, yet poor handling design. The multi-link rear suspension is an inherently loose system. This is why they are such good drift cars, but rarely ever seen in road race. The Z car's original suspension geometry is a far better road race setup and linear handling design. It is proper sports car handling. The S13 subframe is a huge bulky setup as well. I think with a LOT of fab work you could put it under the Z car, but you'd be sitting at truck height because it would hang so low. In the end with all the fab work, I doubt you'd save much money, and you'd end up with a poor handling, ugly monstrosity of a mess under the car." And the 2nd company: "the s13 is a much better new technology it has similar to a double wish bone suspension which is far superior to the 240z rear suspension and differential. it will handle better. But it looks like a really long project with much welding cutting grinding fabricating. I would not do it unless i had all the tools already, and the skill to pull of such a project, and the amount of time for it. So do you have those resources is the questions? If you decide to keep s30 parts everything will kinda bolt on. any upgrade you buy will bolt on. All the parts are the same price. brake kits, suspension parts. so i'm not sure which one would be cheaper to do. It's a hard questions." Their opinions seems to vary, one saying it would handle well while the other saying it would handle better. Now I have not had the opportunity to drive a car that has either set up, but would like to know the opinion of the people who have done these upgrades. From the people with the T3 setup, how do you like it and would you go this route again? From the S13 setup, how difficult was the swap and do you wish you had gone with something easier and bolt on? Any and all information, advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I did some searching around and found a few threads talking about the swap but not comparing the two in regards to handling and also cost.
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So a friend of mine recently told me about a 1975 280z for sale... The car, for my area, was one of the best I've seen. Sure, it wasn't totally together or running, but the body was straight, didn't need much body work, and barely had any rust anywhere (the worst of the rust is on the inside of the hatch by the corners; worst of the body work is the pass. rear quarter). It was kept in storage and hadn't seen the weather for 30+ years, and at some point had a 350 SBC and 4 speed auto swapped in. The suspension has been refurbished a little; new bushings and shocks as far as I know. Original glass with no cracks or chips that I can see. The dash is cracked (pretty bad in some spots). The car came with pretty much all the stock parts that weren't installed on the car (trim pieces, carpets, lights, door handles, etc.). Needless to say, I bought it. I haven't done too much to it yet, just trying to get it situated for now and come up with a plan for where to start. I have some ideas but nothing set in stone yet. I'll try to keep this thread updated as often as possible with what's going on. For now, here are some pictures and a video from the day I picked the car up. If the pictures show up small, let me know. I can try re-uploading larger ones. Video Link: This is the worst of the body damage. It was explained to me that this was to fill in where the bumper wrapped around, as well as some trim holes