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  1. I'm in the process of redoing a couple of thins on my l28et swapped 280z and i noticed that the oil line for the turbo is kinked in few places. I want to replace it while the intake and exhaust manifold is off. I dont want to go cheap but I also dont want to spend a 100 dollars. I was thinking maybe SS line or should I just get a brake line and bend it. I done some research and it left me with more questions than answers. I did find this http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=OL-AN4-90S-51&Category_Code=FUSM and i was wondering what are your thought on it and maybe what else besides that would I need to mount it. Thanks guys. PS also I want to upgrade the turbo in the future to T3/T4 so I want something future proof.
  2. I have been putting together the ingredients for my turbo swap, and it's coming together quite "Niftily" if you ask me (Noobest of the Noobs). 1. Anyway, I read through the sds install manual and today as I spread my kit out (just to admire it) that my sync magnet is mounted on the inner radius which is where the trigger magnets A,B,C are mounted. Now the pully is scribed with the outer radius and a hole drilled just next to this magnet which is where I assume it was originally designated to go. Now in my nooby brain I am thinking that this will screw up the trigger signal being picked up by the hall sensor and that it is not going to see a sync signal. Help me understand why this was done this way. I guess if this was done in error I can drill the magnet out and place a new one on the outer radius where the manual states it should be. 2. Can someone confirm or clarify for me if my inlet air temp sensor goes in the 1" spacer where the red arrow is pointing.. or does it go upstream of the throttle body? Thanks for any insight that you send my way! Lawrence
  3. Just as the title says. How much power can i produce from my turbo L31 stroker with L24 rods and Ross pistons before i need to start worrying about a rod giving in? I am looking to produce somewhere in the 400HP region with a lot of mid range torque. Thinking about installing H-beam or X-Beam rods instead, but only if it requires me to do so.
  4. Here pictured is the spec card from the cam in the motor that will be going into my car. I have ridden around in the donor car, and it seems to run fine. However, the .480/.480 lift and .274/.274 cam profile seems to match that of a Schneider stage 2 NA cam as sold through MSA. I believe that the overlap on this cam is 54* and I know that less overlap on a turbo is better, I am just ignorant as to how much is acceptable, and the opinions out there seem to conflict. The MSA/Schneider Turbo Stage 1 has only 27*, but jeffp in another post says that he runs 54* and it works fine. I don't have a very free exhaust flow, just your standard turbo exhaust manifold to a T04E 60 to a 3in to a Monza tip. This car is for the street, but hope to run 15psi. Priority 1 is not blowing my motor, priority 2 is power. I know there is a lot of info and discussions on cams out there. What I am looking for are answers specific to my application. In short, should I run this head as is? Would I just be better off selling this N42 and getting a rebuilt stock P90 with a stock cam? If I go that far should I go ahead and get a stage 1 or 2 turbo cam with it? Thanks!
  5. Hi, I'm looking at a driveshaft I found and based on the pictures it looks like a T5 driveshaft that's been cut and shortened on one end. To my knowledge, they're the only ones that neck down at both ends, but this one only has that at one. It also has the square diff flange and seems to have a 26 spline tailshaft yoke based on the blurry picture I got. Can anyone tell me for sure that it is/isn't? Thanks.
  6. The title says it pretty well, I stumbled across the right engine, and I just need the surge tank to make it all work. Let me know what you have got!
  7. Got mine http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t85/melbellwood1/20141005_084352_zpsfsnc18ag.jpg
  8. I'm looking for a 280ZXT manual transmission crossmember. Looks similar to the normal 280ZX transmission crossmember but I think it bumps out a little horizontally instead of just being the straight U shape.
  9. hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall
  10. I had this epiphany last night about a Mercedes-Datsun hybrid. I'm a big fan of the Merc turbo diesel engines and how little money you can throw into them for an unhuman amount of torque. Last night I had no idea this is actually a somewhat popular swap and have seen some info on it but is a kinda few and far between so I'm looking to get a Merc diesel thread started. My local pull a part has a few cars that might actually provide me with the OM603 or preferably an OM606 TD engine. My dads job is servicing large Cummins engines on logging equipment so I have a HX40 turbo sitting by on standby I'm waiting to apply to something. For a transmission I've learned that apparently a 300ZXT manual transmission will go up to it but I am quite skeptical about that. But who knows. Obviously engine/trans mounts will be custom made and fuel system doesn't really worry me all that much wiring however is keeping me racking my brain but I'm not too discouraged I've seen crazier swaps out there. Any information you have would help out a ton. Especially if you know of a way to contact the guy with the running OM606 240z that would be incredible. As always thanks in advance- Grayson!
  11. Hello Everyone! My name is Tate, I'm 16 years old, and this my 1983 S130 Turbo! I purchased the car 6 months ago with my own money that I had saved up from my job at a local pizza parlor. I saw the Z on craigslist for $2k and I had to get it. When I first got it...I knew nothing about how a car worked or what the hell a turbo was. The previous owner had installed an AEM Methanol Injection Kit (which I'm currently running water in...I know my turbo thanks me for that.) He also had installed an AEM Boost Controller with the setting set to 14psi on the stock Garret AiResearch T3 Turbo. I haven't changed it since I bought the car and I don't plan to. I know I don't have an intercooler yet and that I'm still on stock injectors...all very bad things to do with a high Psi setting on a stock turbo but that will all change soon. I actually just purchased an intercooler kit from CXR Racing. The best part about this car...only 75k orginal miles. I have done all the body work and painting myself on this car, as well as putting on the new wheels and tires and other upgrades. I have purchased everything myself and I can't wait to get her up to the high 300 range of whp...that is, if the Xenon S130 L28ET guide isn't lying to me (; I'm very proud of myself and this Z is nowhere near done...so please stay tuned and follow my progress! Here is what the Z first looked like when I bought it...God, I don't even know how I thought that ugly ass wing and those turbo decals were attractive... I still have this Center Tail Light panel by the way if anyone wants it...I know they are pretty rare. The first modification I did was rip out all the ugly 80's maroon interior and respray everything gloss black because #racecar Then I took off that ugly wing that worked better as a lunch table and order a custom JDM Plate Yeah....maybe I should move that JDM Plate to the front... But first...let me paint my tailights black... Here are some front shots I took... My buddy who has an R8 met up with me... Then one day...it dawned on me. I HATE THIS UGLY FADED 80's RED. LET'S MAKE THIS CAR RATTY. SO I DID. First...I resprayed the whole thing in primer grey... It was better...but I still wasn't loving it. My wheel and tire choice bothered me. It didn't scream agressive...it whispered "please don't hurt me." Not my thing. YES I KNOW THEY ARE EPSILONS BUT THEY WERE SO HORRIBLY CURBED FROM THE PREVIOUS OWNER I HATED THEM ANYWAY. So I traded with my buddy for some nice 'hipari' 195/55 tires and some pretty sweet steelies. Mmmmm....MUCH BETTER. Group Photo with me and my JDM Buddies... Fixed the JDM Plate by the way...(: It still wasn't doing it for me though...something was missing. I had seen something on, HybridZ...at least I think was HybridZ...where some dude with an s130 bought a Victory Spoiler for an s30 and put it on there...it looked pretty good and he said it fit fine. Good enough for me. SO I went down to MSA and demanded that they sell me an s30 Victory Spoiler...however to my dissapointment they were out. SO I got a BRE one instead. The salesman at MSA said "Are you sure you know what you're doing kid?" And I said "No but I saw it on HybridZ so, I'm sure I can figure it out." AND BAM IT LOOKS SO GOOD. Then I decided...hmmm...I've had it primed for the longest time...maybe I should try painting it black myself... Yeah...bad idea. You can't tell in the photo but I did a really shitty job. So I decided to do what any 16 year old boy would do...rat it out again. The new paint you're about to see is heavily inspired by Gage Kerr's 280z. That thing is so flipping sweet... Then I got my tsurikawa chain...a real one from Japan...because honestly, I love shakotan and bosozoku culture. I also got this sweet windshield banner made that says "party gang" in Japanese. It is the name of the car club that me and my friends created. Got my Crown Royal shift boot... GALLARDO And this is the most recent photo I have of her...taken today...stay tuned for more progress! Love it or hate it...I really don't care. This is my Z and I love what I've done to it!
  12. First off, hello there, my name is Brad. I am new here... and yes this is another SHOULD I BUY THIS post so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been searching my local area and nearby states for a Z car (specifically pre 1979... no ZX). I am planning on doing a budget build and not a restoration. I will be going for the classic JDM look (fender mirrors, flairs etc.). I am a performance car enthusiast and currently daily drive a 2011 Subaru STi, however performance is not my end goal. I already have a great performance car so I want something that looks different for cruising and taking to some shows. I love the way the classic Z cars look, even stock they are gorgeous. This may upset purists but imperfections don’t bother me and this car will be far from perfect for some time. The imperfections are character and show history. That being said I don’t want a complete ROT project, as many don’t. After searching I found what I think is the best deal I’ve seen so far and plan on going to check it out today with CASH in hand but would love to hear some opinions and words of caution from those more experienced than I. Here is the ad: http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/4576768231.html This car is just up the road so it’s a lucky find in my opinion. Some more information from the guy after talking with him and looking at pictures he sent me. - The floor pans are not rusted through, only surface rust. - The electrical issue is because he had someone else wire the car and they used the wrong harness. Everything works (lights, turn signals etc) just some of it is mixed up, like the wipers are turned on VIA the defrost button . So nothing major and something I will fix. - He checked the wheel wells and strut tower areas and said nothing was rusted through (I will confirm this) - The car was originally from Texas but spent 2 years in Connecticut, that’s where the little bit of rust came from. It now resides in Columbia, SC. I originally set out to find a carbureted setup to eliminate EFI and having to work with ECU/tuning. I currently do that on my STi but it can be tougher than making adjustments to a ye ol’ carb setup. However he said it runs great and has no issues so I shouldn’t have to touch the engine much at the moment. The only issue comes in when I do have to. Maybe someone can shed some light on this part, is it a good setup, easy or hard to work with and so on. I think that is the only thing holding me back at the moment (besides the obvious that I haven’t seen it in person yet). I know I’m forgetting some small details so I will update if I can think of anything. Thanks in advance! Purchase
  13. Greetings, Looking for a Turbo Exhaust Manifold for an L28 Engine. I am located in Los Angeles County and willing to pick up from Orange County, San Fernando Valley and San Gabriel Valley. Thanks for your help. JD
  14. I am building an engine on the side and looking for an engine to drop in for now. I am open minded for any types of L6 engine weather it be Turbo, Stroker, Carb, EFI, Stock. I want something to drop in a day and start it up. complete swap and running please. PM me what you got and how much you want for it.
  15. So I just finished up swapping an 81 l28et into my 76 280z. Runs and drives but far from a smooth running car due to only having a downpipe haha. Using the n42 intake seemed like a good idea at first but I really didnt study up enough on it. Problem number one: the turbo blocks where the crankcase vent goes into the manifold. My solution to this problem was to just run it back into the J pipe, figured this was pretty much the same thing as before just without the little check valve and now it is behind the throttle. Problem number two: What to do with the other line I had running from the T connector, that was connected to the vent on the valve cover and airflow regulator, back to the j pipe. I ended up capping it off and didnt really see any change in performance. I guess my question here is how important is the airflow through everything? Does the air regulator actually need to be connected before and after the throttle? I think this will be much easier to diagnose after I get an exhaust on the car, but for now its just running poorly.
  16. Hi all, I have a 1977 280z with a 1982 rebuilt L28ET swap. I'm working on my tune, but I think I have vapor lock. symptoms I'm experiencing are: stalling at higher temperatures (> 180), even while idle cannot hot start even with prime pulse cycling cannot hot start even with a flood clear crank even when hot start works (after cool down) engine slowly stumbles and comes to life gradually and stalls out soon (3-5 minutes) I have tried clearing the line before cranking. Would love to find some tips to manage the heat or provide a couple of places I need to start with. I checked my fuel lines for leaks, and checked hte o ring pressure gauge (negligible drop in pressure after ~1 hour). However, when I came back to check the fuel pressure after an hour I noticed the fuel rail is still warm. Is that normal? http://imgur.com/a/ayrDw <------- engine bay pics. Car specs: L28ET with stock turbo MegaSquirt n Spark Extra EFI (fully programmable) Turbonetics (I think) T3/T04B turbocharger (internal wastegate) 260z intake manifold (no EGR) Intercooler with 2.5" aluminum piping Griffin aluminum radiator 16" electric fan Aeromotive Fuel Filter Russel fuel filter at pump 255LPH Walbro Fuel Pump MSD Blaster Coil 440cc Supra injectors (flow tested) JSK O-ring Fuel Rail Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
  17. Today while doing some basic maintenance i noticed that my car has what appears to be a NA l28e distributor. Now I have a 1977 280Z with a l28et swap in it running Megasquirt 1 v3. The previous owner somehow connected the distributor to megasquirt. How big of a deal that is? The car runs but not that good. Since its a NA do I adjust the timing by twisting it. Should I replace it with a Turbo distributor?
  18. I'm looking to get the following electronics from an '82-'83 ZX turbo: - Wiring harness - ECU Also need a driveshaft from a manual '82-'83 ZX turbo that has the BW T5 transmission. Located in Everett, WA. A bit north of Seattle. Hoping to get the electronics for $150 or less and the driveshaft for under $100. Doing an L28ET swap into a '76 S30 so if you've got anything else that you think I might be interested in feel free to shoot me a pm. - Brandon
  19. I need to either bend my wastegate rod 15mm or come up with a solution to make it work. My new turbo elbow relocated the flapper arm location and it's off 15mm. Now the wastegate arm is at a small angle and it won't open properly. Apparently they need to be damn straight. I can't move the wastegate anywhere so this is my only option. I know they are $50 online but I'm looking for a cheap garage fix. Anybody have experience bending the arms? Should I heat it or try to bend it cold? Option #2
  20. ~KnuckleDuster~

    R33 T28

    From the album: New Parts

  21. I need the wiring, including connectors, for the output from a late 280zx. Turbo electronic distributor. This is the dizzy with the single circular 360deg plate with 6 x output marks at 60deg intervals which connects to the 280zx ECU and is driven by a splined driveshaft not a straight tongue. I need the 4 pin (female) connector for the dizzy end with it along with a length of the wiring. The other end is not important but preferable if you can split it out from the loom. Alternatively I would be happy to purchase a complete "engine section" wiring loom as I can use this in stead of adding bits to my 260z loom. Can pay by PayPal or EFT. Thanks Andy
  22. Does this look right or is it a tooth off?
  23. Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-T3-T4-T04E-Universal-Turbo-Charger-Kit-WASTEGATE-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-/390750137211 comes with t3/4 turbo, an intercooler, some piping, a waste gate, and some other goodies…. Im mainly interested in it because it seems to be decently comprehensive and cheap… on the other hand I'm skeptical of it for the same reason…. i know the intercooler will be crap but I'm probably only going to be running 10psi or so, so i don't need the best of the best but what do you guys think about the turbo and the other parts? and in general opinions of ebay things like this? -thanks
  24. Hey all I'm at odds with what to decide on doing and need some suggestions (some advice wouldn't be bad either.) Well here's my dilemma; I have a bmw M50B25 out of a 1992 325is complete with everything except the flywheel and clutch in my garage and I wanna know what you guys think of swapping it into a Z would be like or should i just stick to swapping init the L26 with the round top SU's I got with the car? If i were to swap in the M50b25 i would want to run boost on it because stock they can handle a conservative setup of 8-12psi, but the real dilemma is that I'm kinda unsure of the swap because It's never been done before and I don't really want to open up a pandora's box of problems. People have told me that the engine is relatively simple but that's not always the case. Anyways I'd gladly appreciate any input you guys have as to this swap. Oh and the engine itself is a stand alone system so wiring shouldn't be too much of a hassle.
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