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hey guys, so i have had this problem since the day i bought my 77 280z, and nobody has been able to help me fix it.the problem: when it first started it would sputter and backfire at about 3000 rpm and get worse as i drove it. as time went on the problem got increasingly worse and became kinda undrivable. I found started investigating and found that the fuel pump would pulse and shut off then return "repeat". this would obviously cause the engine to starve for fuel and sputter or stop firing all together. well i bought a brand new "presumably a real walbro 255 fuel pump" and replaced the stock fuel pump with the walbro. the z ran amazing for about a month and a half. then started sputtering, backfiring,dying, just like before. at a glance it seems the fuel pump went out again but i find it hard to believe that it would just burn up and die in a month, although i have ran under a half tank about the entire time its been installed, but i didn't think it mattered much on a external pump. it has to be something electrical,fuel pump, afm, tps,realy, something along those lines. As of now the 280z is litraly un-derivable. it will start and run great for about 3 seconds then starts acting up, i can drive it for about 50 feet then it gets so bad to the point were the pump is barely functioning and cant touch the throttle without it dying, it eventually just dies. im at a loss here guys, this is my baby and would love to drive her on the road once more. help or opinions would be greatly appreciated additional -info: when i turn the key too acc the pump comes on and stays on. "i don't think this is normal" - the afm that is on the car right now might be from a zx, the owner gave me a box of parts and there was a was looks to be a zx n/a afm, i know that some people do the zx afm conversion. i also know that the early 77 280z had a fuel pump cut off switch in the afm's and the later ones did not and it was run from the oil pressure sensor. from what i can see the OPS operates just find and when it is unplugged it does not in anyway effect the pump or running status of the z. - the only thing on the car that i know does not work properly is the temp sensor. but i know that thats the reason its making the car run lean,if that was the issue that doesn't enplane why it ran great with a brand new pump.
hey guys, i have a 77 280z and i recently replaced my fuel pressure regulator with a cheap adjustable aftermarket one to see if would fix a other problem "stupid move". this regulator said adjustable but it really wasnt so it was running around 50+ psi.. i never really ran it on that kind of psi but the otherday i had to move it out of my driveway for a second and it seemed to be running normal then all the suddin it started running insanly terible. it seemed to idle ok but when you touched the throttle it would instantly sputter. whell after a while of trying to solve this problem i fell unsuccessful and put it back in the garage. a few days later i try to start it and it will barly start and sounds like its only running on 3-ish cylinders and does not idle. still cant figure it out, a day later i go and try agian and then it fires maybe once for one or two cylinders and dies. im not sure what this problem could be. my best guess is that because of the high psi it has broken or jammed some or all of the injectors. today i replaced the regulator with the stock one and banged on all the injectors to see if they would come un-stuck. i did have some breif success, it started and ran on 3-ish cylinders agian. if you guys have any idea of what this could be please let me know, thank you . sorry for the long ass story.
Hello fellow z owners i would like to see how much horse power i would be looking ad with an engine of these specs. >l28 >n42 head, ported polished, Lift(In/Ex): .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300, kameari big valves >n42 block, ross forged 1mm over high comp pistons, 1mm head gasket >kameari high performance oil pump >later electronic distributer from 280zx >ztherapy su carbs >msa 6-1 headers 2.5" exhaust system Engine will also be about a 10.5:1 compression ratio
Hello i have a question i have a 240z with an l28 swap that the previous owner didn't do engine work correctly on, any ways when the previous owner put the head on he didn't set the timing correctly and the valves hit the pistons. So when i got the car i pulled the head of and replaced it with a performance head and it runs great, but now thinking back doesn't .75 overbore seem a bit much because .040 is ideal and that is 1mm overbore then that means that a .75 overbore is equal to 19mm which is insane or is the .75 overbore already in mm but even if it is it seems insane. I shouldn't be two worried about it because my car runs great but i was just wondering. Heres a video i made of t a while back. I know it sounds really raspy but since then i put a resonator on it and it sounds way better.