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  1. Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-T3-T4-T04E-Universal-Turbo-Charger-Kit-WASTEGATE-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-/390750137211 comes with t3/4 turbo, an intercooler, some piping, a waste gate, and some other goodies…. Im mainly interested in it because it seems to be decently comprehensive and cheap… on the other hand I'm skeptical of it for the same reason…. i know the intercooler will be crap but I'm probably only going to be running 10psi or so, so i don't need the best of the best but what do you guys think about the turbo and the other parts? and in general opinions of ebay things like this? -thanks
  2. When putting a L28ET into a 240Z chassis - does the new (swapped) engine use a cable throttle or does it use the old bell-crank rod and linkage setup?
  3. I'm pretty new to this forum but I wanted to start a build log for my car so i can document my progress and hopefully get some tips along the way so i can truly get the most out of my car. A little backstory on the car and the swap is that there are few people in New Jersey who really know how to take care of these cars and tune the Su's properly and webers also proved to be quite rare and i wanted something a bit more reliable. My car had been breaking down going lean, going rich, backfiring, all sorts of engine problems that i just didnt want to deal with so i thought id upgrade to fuel injection...being 18 and having this as my only car i need something that i can get around in and wont die on me. So im starting with my 240, taking the l24 out along with the terrible wiring the previous owner did, and putting all new wiring in along with an l28e thats going to be spruced up a bit in the coming weeks, once everything is running and well, im going to ditch the ecu, put in megasquirt dial it in, then turbo the engine, i already have a turbo manifold, im working on getting a turbo dizzy, and oil pan. Today is day 1, the car is covered in snow, and the l28 just arrived itll probably be a few weeks before any work can be done because the swap will be done in my mechanics backyard My goal is to have the engine bay look clean maybe not a show stopped but something i can be proud of, horsepower goal is 275 at the wheels Thats what im hoping to get the car to look like any advice before i start? ( ive read the forums hundreds of times and will probably still read them a hundred more) - nzarano
  4. I was hoping to get help from some knowledgeable forum members I'm currently restoring my 78 z I did a L28et swap with a T5 Transmission I've been looking for a T5 driveshaft to shorten it to fit my Z I recently found one for sale but the picture he has of the driveshaft looks tinner from what I've seen from other T5's. This is where I need some help recognizing the driveshaft from the one i want to buy and from the one I've seen classified as a T5 driveshaft. Thanks guys in advance. The driveshaft I want to buy. The T5 driveshaft I've seen for sale. Notice the difference one looks thicker.
  5. Lately I've been brainstorming how I'd like to run my intercooler piping for my L28ET S30, and I've come up with (what I think to be) a unique and simple solution that should do everything that I'm trying to achieve. Firstly, let me state my goals: 1.) Keep all the piping on the left side of the radiator. This means both intercooler pipes and intake. I am running a Treadstone intercooler with same side inlet/outlet tanks. 2.) Allow the removal of piping in the engine bay, without having to touch anything in front of the rad support. Not really a big deal, but it would make servicing and pulling the engine easier. 3.) Maintain or increase the rigidity of the rad support. This is the big one, I do NOT want to simply cut larger holes in the rad support. I am looking for strength, simplicity and cleanliness here. Problems: I'm working with three different sizes throughout all my components. My intercooler has 2.5" outlets, my TB has a 3" inlet (manifold has been ported, before anyone tells me that it's a waste) and the turbo has a 2.5" outlet and a whopping 4" inlet (Holset HY series). In an ideal world, these values would be much closer together, but this is what I'm working with. I plan on using a reducer hose to immediately drop the 4" inlet to 3" and keep everything between the filter and turbo 3". The piping between the intercooler and turbo outlet is the only two parts that match, so these will obviously be 2.5" In between the TB and the intercooler I plan on using both 3" and 2.5" piping, joined by a reducer at the rad support. This may not be best, but I've already got the 3" portion being built, and it's going to be a work of art so it's staying! Whew! Now to my proposal! I would like to weld in steel joiners directly to the radiator support. My thinking is that this would avoid any loss of rigidity typical to cutting large holes and possibly increase it over stock. All I'm adding is one additional silicon connection per pipe with this set up, which shouldn't create any noticeable loss in flow. Here is a picture of a joiner, and two (admittedly poor, I'm away from any graphics software) hand drawn illustrations to demonstrate exactly what I'm getting at. Has anyone ever done anything like this? Are there problems with this sort of set up that I'm overlooking? Thanks for reading what has unintentionally turned into a rather long winded post! Discuss...
  6. Hello all, I'm a long time lurker here and am having issues with my fresh (600miles) rebuild. The engine is an 83 L28ET, using MS1 V3.0 with spark control, Holset HE351 turbo, mild turbo regrind cam, forged pistons (~8.5 to 1 CR). I did a WOT throttle run to redline testing a higher boost setting while datalogging, near redline (6k in my case) the car sputtered, missed, and backfired badly. I got off the throttle, coasted to a stop, engine is dead. Cranked it back up, only ran while applying throttle. Still backfiring and sputtering, I pulled over and got the car towed home. Removed spark plugs, verified even compression in all cylinders ~120PSI. Verified static timing, verified fuel pressure, plugs are clean and not fouled. I had a helper start the car and hold the throttle while I watched with a timing gun - the car is now firing 1 at ~33 deg BTDC. I then checked the distributor shaft - it looks slightly off, but not a huge discrepancy. I then rotated the dizzy to "account" for the extra timing and get it back to 20 deg BTDC. Car idles without throttle input now, but is still running like a pig, stutters, doesn't want to rev, etc. I decided to not risk any possible damage and starting documenting everything. Valve cover is now off, I've attached pics of the cam position and the hash mark, the harmonic damper's position relative to TDC, and also a pic of the distributor rotor and the shaft tang below. After plenty of searching, the only thing I can come up with is the oil pump drive gear has slipped several degrees, but that doesn't account for why the car still runs bad even after i artificially fixed the timing by retarding the distributor position. My next step is brand new fresh plugs, perhaps a new fuel filter to eliminate that possibility (car is getting 35 PSI at idle, but who knows might not have enough to run more?) Any ideas guys? And I apologize in advance if I've overlooked anything obvious... I'm naturally very worried and easily may have skipped over something. Also, please let me know if you need me to take pictures of anything else. Thanks!
  7. Hello all. here is/are my problem(s) 1st and most pressing issue is I got the car to run, but the issue is it runs with the VACUUM line from the intake DISCONNECTED..... literally I just grabbed a similiar build and used the VE and the Spark advance and the AFR tables when I did that It almost started right up. played with the electrical trigger and the physical timming and she ran. then I noticed the vacuum was unattached so I attached it and it died instantly SO it wont start with the Vacuum line to the map sensor, when its attached while I'm looking at the maps (VE and SPARK advance) the kpa drops to roughly 30 or so for the VE table I can upload an MSQ for further information but I really need to know how to upload and retrieve datalogs so I can provide more information as to what is happening Build Information MS2 V3 (built by a noob) -stock map sensor -NO MODS -STOCK B&G CODE -NOT THE EXTRA CODE ENGINE L28et stock 100% stock injectors stock throttle body stock dizzy stock everything Second Issue is I got a LC1 wideband on Craigslist and it was sorta chopped up but I managed to wire it up... the Tunerstudio is saying something like 14V~17v and drops to about 11~12V when starting.... if anyone had an idea how to fix this it would be great because then I would be able to log my AFR for tuning and diagnosis any and all help would be much appreciated.
  8. no longer need at this time Had to replace cracked jeep windshield thanks
  9. Klmykvl

    L28et

    I am currently in the market to start sourcing parts for a turbo swap into my S30. I am interested in anything you may have to get me to my goal, which is as of right now, to run a stock l28et in my 240z. The more complete of a swap the better for me. Let me know what you've got
  10. Hey Guys, well, i've reached a point in my project where i just had no clue what to do to get it running right other than to take it to a shop. Long story short.... The car has idling problems/ boost leak problems?e Car turns on and runs and can be driven. But the car definitely has a major lack of power as boost gets nowhere near stock psi. i checked for major leaks with a home made boost leak compressor based gadget to test leaks on piping from turbo running through inter-cooler all the way to intake plenum. gauge on tester goes down very very slowly but Not sure whether or not that should cause such significant lack of power. Car when driven barely gets to spool much boost, let alone set off the greddy type S BOV. there is fuel, there is spark. Timing i can't even get done accurately since the car idles and runs, spits, like crazy . seems like it the problem is aiming toward a boost leak problem; however, this project having been done from ground up by me and being my first swap, the margin of error remains.... electrical wiring schematics were gathered from intel from this site based on previous wiring diagrams from L28et to 240z swaps. I took it to a Datsun specialist shop here in (SAN DIEGO, CA 91911 )nearby that has remarkable yelp feedback and honest to god the owner of the shop seemed like a knowledgeable great guy and interested to fix on it.... but after 3 months of waiting i was dissapointed to hear he was unable to get positive results as (and i quote) " specialize in N/A for the most part" which would've been nice to know prior to wasting my 3 months ANYWAY! Does anybody know of a good shop here in SAN DIEGO, CA area that does honest and good work on 240z's in a timely manner for a decent price? or anybody who could take a look at it and figure out what needs to be addressed. the wrenching i can do. but with the TIME i have free it's just not feasible for me to LOOK or TROUBLESHOOT. i need someone to say " THIS, THIS, and THAT. i can get it fixed for _____and running right, otherwise its ____ for the diagnosis and have a nice day. HELP! Here's a link to a youtube Video of the car when i took it for a short ride to the end of the block, as you will notice, the car had issues staying on when cold. hopefully by hearing it maybe some of you could throw some educated guess/recommendation http://www.youtube.com/edit?ns=1&video_id=y79Rjd1uI60 Some pics.
  11. Well here it is, my first build thread on this site. I am looking forward to see what comes out of it. Coming from a 350z, building a 240z is totally different. This is my first time working on a turbo car! I wanted to find a nice platform I can build upon. Here are Pictures: Mod List: ZX F54/p79 w/new Ishino head gasket installed, 160 psi across the board Dished turbo pistons T3/T4 turbo .63 /.60 IC piping in 2.5" and eBay intercooler BOV NA cam N42 non egr intake 440cc Supra injectors Pallnet fuel rail +1 extra 240sx throttle body w/spacer + 1 extra spacer ZX I/R alternator MegaSquirt 1 on 3.57 board 3 row aluminum radiator + 1 extra Electric slim fan + 1 extra 3.90 rear end 5 speed trans AEM wideband sensor & digital gauge All new urethane bushings except the diff mount and tc rods Rear strut tower brace Spindle pins replaced with aftermarket Fair interior (no holes, nothing conspicuously missing) 1 year old quickie spray Mopar 70's Sublime Green body (jams and interior remain yellow), flat black vented 280Z hood BRE spook airdam and MSA spoiler The Good: Body is pretty straight, and mostly free of rust I actually got it tuned and dyno (despite the oil leaks) - and made 214whp and 250 lb of torque @ 10PSI Megasquirt Wired Properly for the Most Part Not much Rust besides Battery Tray The Bad: Rust/Leak in Fuel Tank Front Timing Chain Cover Cracked (Oil Leak) Oil Return Line Leaking Harmonic Balancer Chipped Interior in Really Rough Condition Stock Tach not Wired Up Repair Made on the battery Tray stopped rust but was fixed poorly Minor Rust Holes on Floor Boards most patched up Poor Paint Job I've already started breaking down the vehicle to clean it up a bit.
  12. Well, here goes. I suppose an introduction is due before diving into the oil and grime. My name is Andrew, I'm nineteen and a community college student, saving funds to start an EE degree program at University of Texas at Austin. I own and drove a 1978 280z, orange with black stripe, and mixed history. I picked up this car through datsun trader, then found it for cheaper on eBay. Primarily interested in it for the lack of rust, I bought it and shipped it home, well aware engine longevity could be a problem. Then again, these engines were supposedly indestructible, or so I thought. About two months ago I was driving back home from Springfield, MO, during a blizzard. High winds, bad aerodynamics, and poor traction had my eyes glued to the road, and I failed to keep my eye on the other gauges in my dashboard. Apparently a piece of road debris cut into my oil pan, and I didn't even notice it. Soon, that starved engine grinding noise came from my engine bay, and the car died as I clutched in. Long story short, it took several friends, two tows, and about $270 to get my car home. Then came the decision of finding another stock NA block or going turbo. I would have preferred to find a full turbo parts car, but after searching local listings on multiple sites, finding someone selling it cheap wasn't going to be a simple matter. Then, about five hours away, or $70 drive with my mother's Buick, I found a JDM turbo block ordered a good ten years ago sitting in someone's garage, paperwork and everything included. Picked it up for $150, stuffed it into the back seat, and buckled it in. (Damn, that sucker was heavy, even with three guys trying to stuff it into my mother's car) After that was removing the old engine. Fairly straightforward. Then drop the new one it. Too bad I didn't notice I was dropping it in with the motor mounts reversed. Took me a while to figure out why my transmission was tilted. I went on a parts hunt, along with diving heavily into the torrent of information on here. It feels nice to say I actually understand how my car was put together now. Basically, here's my parts list: Stock turbo system DIY'd MBC - not run yet 1st Gen DSM BOV - I actually welded this to the before-turbo intake pipe. I'm an idiot, I know. But I guess I'll leave it off until I find an IC to mount as well. 81 block, 82 harness/dizzy with 85 chopper wheel, 87 ecu, 85 MAF. I have a new fuel pump, but not even Bosch can give me information regarding its flow rate, so that puts a stick in my installing it. z31 ignition coil and power transistor still running the original transmission, no problems with it. Redline mt-90 is the best stuff ever. 4.11 LSD R200 diffy 370cc ford brown top injectors Most of the fun came in the wiring, where the original owner took a few glances at the wiring diagram, screamed "F*** this S***" and did his own thing. That was fun. Fried two coils before getting it right. I guess that means I should never assume anything. Ever. Not with this car. Well, I finished all the wiring, and after all is said and done... So there's a few timing issues, and I failed to notice there was a plastic plug holding in my oil at the oil filter sandwich. Oil went everywhere. Yeah, not a single place in town could make fittings, (NAPA just opened, and Autozone and O'reilly were stumped. The plumbing shop couldn't help either) so I had to jury rig something with hydraulic lines, JB weld, teflon tape, and ultra black permatex. That's a shot of how messy my shop is. I'm moving pretty quickly with this considering how much time I've had allotted for it. I just finished finals in college so this past week I finally got the engine running. I'll always appreciate a few comments. The main one is regarding installing the distributor shaft. I've heard to install it at 11:25 when at #1 TDC, but A, I had to find my own TDC with rope and a file, and B, I can't really find the picture in my FSM I downloaded. I'm fine with just a page number if you guys know which fsm has an install picture. I might be a bit off, so are there any tricks to optimizing timing without the marks? My power goals are about 280 hp at the wheel. I figured it'd be a nice tribute to the nomenclature of the s30 I drive. Maybe in the future I'll go crazy (after I have my degree and a bit more of an idea what I'm doing) for super high horsepower numbers, but right now a hair under 300 hp is fine with me. I'd like to thank awolfe for his wiring diagram. Saved my life. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/44992-somewhat-color-wiring-diagram-1978-280zs-enjoy.html I'd like to thank afshin for his guide to adapting the ECU http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/26230-z31300zx-ecumaf-to-280zxt-swap-guide/ I'd like to thank Tony D, NismoPick, and Bleach for the information they've provided on multiple occasions, and for making me laugh through this otherwise strenuous research phase. And I wish I could thank the rest of the OPs who created topics asking the same questions I had as I was doing this. Where are the wiring diagrams for the z31? I've been unable to find them anywhere. Color would make my eyes less... Crossed, as I follow the pinouts for the efi system.
  13. Hey guys, hopefully someone can lead me in the right direction. I recently rebuilt my l28et that is in my 77 280z. I took my time with the rebuild and checked all the bearing clearances and replaced any and all gaskets. I also cleaned all the oil and coolant passages and made sure to triple check everything during the rebuild. I purchased a new turbo oil pump to ensure that everything in the motor was at least mostly new. Well fastforward and the motor is back in and I am attempting to prime it for first start and break in. I took the oil pressure sending unit out as well as all the spark plugs and oil fill cap. I crank the motor (or have my brother crank it) while the other looks for oil flow through the oil pressure sending unit port as well as oil on the cam. Well we have neither!! I cant figure out what it could be as the oil filter is a new bosch which I have never had problems with bosch filters pre-rebuild. And the pump is brand new and the dizzy shaft gear and pin seem fine. Any ideas would be greatly appriciated. Thanks guys
  14. I know this has been discussed millions of times in the past. I did a search of the entire forums and it looks like there hasn't been a recent post in the last 12 months about clutches for those of us with higher horsepower turbo L28s. While old topics are OK on some subjects, I think clutches are one of those always evolving parts. Sometimes X clutch from 5 years ago was junk and it's a reputable product today (and vice versa). I'm currently looking for one to handle what I hope my Z can put out, which is around 350ft/lbs (so the clutch should hold around 400). I'm using a stock lightened flywheel. I'd also like the clutch to not drain my bank account because we all know there's some clutches that are $2,000 that are just as good as a $300 one (You supra guys know this all too well!) Requirements. about 400ft/lbs of grip Be able to be driven on the street Be able to be driven on the occasional track event or autocross/drag pass. Be reliable I was planning on getting one from South Bend Clutch, but they apparantly do not like to respond to e-mails and calling results in speaking to a human, only to be sent to voicemail. Are there any good deals out there right now? What are the best options these days?
  15. I tried to search for a flange, so I can make my own downpipe for my l28et swap into my 240z, on google and here, but no luck. The flange I need is the four bolt to downpipe.
  16. looking for some parts to swap in my l28et before my wedding in two months, (smoke screen burnout is me dream when leaving in gettaway car, 240z) so i prefer cheap and local to 92128, San Diego Area i'll pick up. my number is 760-315-2372 if there are some things missing chime in. obx lsd for r200 or any other cheap option, 350z clutch, 280z gas tank, fuel line, 255lph external walbro pump, 3" v-band etc.. i have wire harness, ecu, and engine. im betting the injectors are toast. thanks!!!
  17. motomanmike

    Z

    From the album: Second Z, the real last letter in the alphabet

    73 Z L28ET

    © Michael Lowe

  18. This is the start to what I hope becomes another great build thread. I picture it ending with a photograph of my Z, shining in the beams of Texas sunlight coming through a massive cloud of burnt rubber. There I am in the driver seat… old, broke and happy! I am an engineer, not a mechanic. I hope by the end of this project and after a few more years at my job, the gap between the two will meet somewhere in the middle. I do not have unlimited time and I have a baby on the way, so I apologize in advance for any long periods without updates or if at some point this becomes another sad part-out page. So far, I have only vicariously enjoyed your successes and turmoil. I’m going out on the same limb now, thanks for having me. Before I forget, many tanks to Matt (if you’re out there) for selling me the car…sorry I couldn’t offer more. Please post as much as you want with input, critiques, questions or moral support! For a little back-story here is my new member post. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105606-south-texas-engineer-with-a-new-75-z-turbo/ Starting line: Price: Every bit I could spare for…$2500!! Layout: 75 280z L28et (seller said ‘83… wiring harness and sensors are 81?) 5speed. It has strong metal everywhere except driver floorboard that has small patch and potentially lower section of deck lid. Battery tray, fenders and all towers are in great shape. Running condition: Fires right up, runs terrible. Not highway safe! Good Mods from previous owner: Very surprising bunch of aftermarket parts for a car that runs terrible! No details on what had been done so far… so it’s back tracking and investigation for everything but the obvious below. It has a “Recent†engine rebuild, no details, in a pretty clean engine bay. JSK fuel rail and FPR and an unknown newer style pump, MSD ignition coil with new distributor and wires, HKS BOV, new intercooler (~10x24x3â€), SS intake piping, KN filter set, oil cooler mounted behind intercooler, filter to cooler oil bypass, single small electric radiator fan, Interior has all new carpet, headliner and dash pad, doors open well and have decent liners. If that’s not enough, 4 brand new xxr wheels and tires! Downsides: Fuel management is no good and frustration with this is why he sold it. I think injectors are almost full open all the time. It spits un-burnt fuel straight out of downpipe onto my garage and starts burning your eyes within a few seconds. Under medium throttle at standstill engine can die from flooding. Oil has heavy fuel contamination after only a few hours of tinkering. Rear-end CLUNK when you shift quickly under load… I have ideas but I am not sure yet. Owner before me could not get hood latch open when he bought it… so he DRILL cut a hole in the hood above the latch to get it opened. No chassis light/electrical works, all HVAC controls removed, gauges don’t work. Status of diagnostics: I fixed an early issue with battery drain coming from a short in the rear-defrost (by fix I mean I removed the fuse) I then moved on with the “ecm connector test†and found almost everything reads open circuit or the wrong resistance. I have determined that the coolant temp and head temp sensor have no/broken connectors, wiring for them is bundled and zip tied. The TPS wiring was cut and then wrapped in elec tape so it only LOOKs like its plugged in. AFM was broken into and now doesn’t read the correct resistance throughout the range. But hey, Intake air temp reads great! Drawing board: I picture having the drive train and ride at 100% and spending as little money as possible to get the look to 75%. Right now I am considering removing all of the original engine controls and going with Megasquirt and maybe even 3.0 with spark control. My reasoning for this is that after adding up just a replacement AFM, harness repairs/connectors and OE sensors I am already almost to the cost of the MS system. I also think it is the coolest thing EVER to have that kind of system in a 40 year old car. So instead of asking the question “do you think I should Msquirt?†I am going over all the other answers to that question and the final product and decide for myself. I may go with just toggle switches for all chassis stuff besides brake lights and have a space for a small laptop to sit where the HVAC and radio used to be to show the extra gauges from MS. *Suspension to be addressed* After all that, its new seats… cheap paint job… and open road.
  19. So i recently purchased a 4/1987 z31 turbo 300zx donor for my s30 l28et project. Originally I planned to fix her up and make her my daily for a while, unfortunately the HOA has issues with my roomates and i having several cars parked outside. Therefore I have to pull the parts i need for my s30 so i can get it off the street. I know for a fact that i can use the transmission, differential, rear brakes, and ecu. I think i might have read once that i could use the axels and half shafts as well. Is there any other parts that you guys would recommend that i should pull off of the donor car while it is still available? Any advice or suggestions that could be offered would be greatly appreciated. I have done my research and to my knowledge this is all that i would need off of the z31. i would hate to sell it and wish i had pulled something more. I know these builds are quit common so any other helpful hints or advice would be awesome. Any other forum suggestions would be helpful too i tried searching this topic and nothing came up so sorry to start a new thread if one already exist. cheers
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