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Found 42 results

  1. Here is the last dyno run we did to tune the car. It is a blast to drive. There are 29 pulls on this zip drive. You can just look at the last 3-4 pulls as they are the final tune. 225hp with 255 tq on the dyno. Think I am conservative enough on tune for longevity. Still need to work on decel, and initial tip in. Had multiple issues to deal with at the dyno. Kept losing power to the TPS(was the connection being loose on the spade to fuse panel). Blew coupler off did not know it for first 10 pulls. Pulled the power to 3 injectors by accident while closing the gaps on spark plugs. Had the vacuum lines to the boost controller wrong, hence could not build boost. Thats how it is when you don't finish things you start, or finish things others don't. Have to look over everything. Data Log Zip File.zip
  2. Reading at 0 throttle is 220 and at full throttle is 1238. Is that correct? Keep losing signal, have traced it through a spade connector that was loose. Once I have reset the signals is as above readings. Throttle application seems accelerated, as in 1/3 is half.
  3. Hello all. So I recently picked up a new 1976 280Z Non CA. It has a few mods to it. Stage III schneider cam, headers, monza exhaust. Something failed on the EFI and the previous owner cracked open the AFM and tweaked a bit. This is causing the engine to run extremely rich. The coolant temp sensor is dead also. I've decided after seeing many split wires and splicing that it would be best to start new with Megasquirt. I plan on purchasing the MS2 3.57 assembled unit and wiring harness. I know this question strays from the normal. I know the option of going to a 82-83 dizzy. As of right now, I just plan on running MS2 for fuel only. I know there is a trigger input that comes into the ECU like the stock setup. Is this acceptable for the MS2 or can I not use this. My understanding is that the injectors fire on every third pulse. Looking through wiring diagrams I put together this diagram. The 1976 datsun looks like it uses a dual coil setup with a transistor ignition box. Can I still have the megasquirt hooked up with this setup or will it not like it? Any advice would be greatly beneficial.
  4. I have been trying to get my 280z running again. I moved and changed jobs so it's been a while but finally getting back into it. I check all my wiring again and everything seems to be right. So I figured that I would check the board to make sure the jumpers were in the right place(I bought the car with the MS2 half ass installed and the wiring was shot). Anyways this is what I found. I am not sure if it will still work or not. It boots and lets me upload msqs to it and it does try to start. Also does anyone have the stock ignition and other setting I need to getting it running? I am using a 83zxt cas(360 slots). I appreciate the help. Also anyone in/near Waco, TX?
  5. So it took me one afternoon to rip out the stock injection and get the car wired up and started on ms, it's taken me almost three months since to get things to where I'm pretty happy (one month delay thanks to the stock T3 blowing to bits). My car: 83 l28et, p90a head, stock block with at least 206k miles. Last time I tested I had low compression on #6 (110 vs. 145 on rest). My compression tester was stolen along with my truck and I haven't replaced it yet. I think I might have blown the ring back into place while letting VEAL tune the upper regions of my ve table whilst doing 3,500-5,000 rpm on the interstate in 3rd for about 20 minutes last week. It's run silky smooth since that session after the lifters quieted down (I was worried that I had done something bad until I learned that was common with hydraulic lifter setups). The non-stock stuff is: 3" K&N filter in the wheel well under the drivers side headlight, 3" piping up to turbo. same-side ebay fmic ebay type-s bov recirculated via a 1 and 3/8 line back into the intake just before the turbo. EGR is deleted and blocked off. I have had the intake and exhaust manifolds mildly ported by Lonewolf Performance. They also welded a 1/2" T3 spacer onto the exhaust manifold and a 38mm tial wastegate flange as well. I am very happy with their work. 60mm 240sx TB and TPS EM USA external wastegate set to between 15 and 18psi depending on the gear. Holset HY35 (used, fair condition) New, bigger downpipe for Holset with first O2 bung located about 1' downstream of the turbo--catback still whatever came on the car cause it's in good shape and I like the sound characteristics Ebay injectors which are supposed to be high impedance custom versions of the Bosch 403 injectors (~550cc) - so far they seem to be the real deal Palnet 14mm fuel rail Walbro 255 GM flex fuel sensor (the newer one) D585 LS truck coils (round w/ heatsink style) A set of Silverado shorty plug wires A Bosch 505 idle valve (3 wire) A homemade tach adapter Innovate MTX-L wideband and gauge Speedhut electronic fuel pressure gauge Some ebay boost gauge retrofitted in place of the stock boost gauge which is semi-accurate GM open element IAT sensor (between IC and TB) (using the CHTS as the coolant sensor for MS) DIYautotune dizzy trigger wheel DIYautotune supplied MS3/MS3X 3.57 with integrated knock sensor circuit DIYautotune MS3 and MS3X harnesses (recommended -- not a single sync problem since the first startup). I think that's most everything that's relevant to the tune. I've found the flex fuel sensor is working pretty good in tandem with MS3 and I'm able to switch to different blend ratios without it throwing the ve map off. My cold start settings are based on testing with approximately a 60% ethanol blend. There's a decent chance that at the colder temperatures they may foul plugs with pump gas. It started on the third try a little while ago with the block at 13 degrees so I'm pretty satisfied with the settings as they are (tomorrow morning at -10 should be interesting). I'll probably dyno it soon. You can see by my upper VE map that the porting work and bigger intake tract has shifted the peak torque region closer to 4,700rpm, if you've got a bone stock setup you might shift the fat area of the ve table a few hundred rpm to the left. Here are the settings I'm using. I hope these are useful for someone, lord knows I've gotten a lot farther a lot faster than I ever could have without the knowledge on this site and others.
  6. Hi guys, I want to know if any has any MS2 MSQ or map they can share for my new setup. Im running MS-II PCBv3 4 bar MAPDADDY My set up is build L28et with P90 head and N42 manifold L28ET bored out to 88mm Ratio is at 9:1 Schneider cam 284-70F Head is mildly ported -T3/T4 hybrid turbo -AEM 50-1200 electric fuel pump -upgraded fuel rail -240sx TB -Arizona Z TB spacer -CX racing FMIC -3 inch exhaust -FORD EDIS 36-1 trigger wheel with VR sensor. Still on the Ford Module with Coil on plugs. -injectors are 480cc at 43.5psi (3bar) You guys were such a big help last time so I thought I’d ask again. I’m getting the car tune but my tuner has me waiting. So I thought I’d ask to see if someone has a tune I can use for now. Also any suggestion on a spark plug I’m using the NGK coppers with a smaller gap. Thanks Manny
  7. Help me HybridZ, you're my only hope. First I have an Megasquirt 1 extra (MSnS 1) v3.0 board. No relay. Before trying to connect MSnS with my laptop it was running rich but working. I tried to connect to the 9 pin using a 15 pin adaptor and connecting it that way. After hooking it up I heard a whistling noise like the injectors emptying and saw the fuel rail pressure drop from 40->0. Afterwards I cannot connect to MSnS. I disconnected the laptop and tried to turnover the engine, no fuel pump noise either. I thought I might've blew a fuse, but they're all fine, and relays are good too. I took out the MSnS and visually checked for burns etc, it looks fine. I've been tracing wiring trying to find an inline fuse I might've missed. Has this happened to anyone else? Any advice on how to proceed? I guess it's time to buy that stim board.
  8. Hi, I picked up someone else's headache apparantly, Its running the MSnS and I tried connecting to the 9 port with my laptop (car off), I heard a whistling noise, went to check it out and my fuel pressure went to 0. Next I tried to open up tunerstudio to MSnS, no response. Un connected laptop to MSnS Tried to restart the car and the fuel pumps not working.. Did I fry my megasquirt?
  9. I am about to hook up my o2 sensor and start autotuning. I know the lean cruise around 2300 is rich. I plan on tuning that to what the car will tolerate. car is 77 280z n42/n47 stock. tune is based on gavins tune. I've been told the upper right section is accurate and ideal. I have no idea what to do on the lower left except for my idle 13.2 and cruise2300@55mph in 5th gear. aft.bmp
  10. I have been doing a bunch of reading on the 83 turbo dizzy and megasquirt setups and I just want some verification that it's input voltage is 12v and not 5v reason being is my setup was getting really erratic spark I was wondering if I was feeding the dizzy too much power since there are two different vvalues to use for each voltage My set up is as follows Ms2 v3 Extra code Stock l28 83 dizzy and an msd blaster Dropping resistors for the stock low impedance iinjectors
  11. I would like to know what everybody is running for dwell on their megasquirt direct (single) coil control on thir l-gata z. For example the stock ballasted 280z coil. The " hot" z31 300z coil and various performance coils.
  12. Scoping the interwebs for some information on my new Suzuki F6A Turbo, I ran across a neat replacement distributor which looks head and shoulders above the conventional Mallory Replacement. It's programmable if you want it to be... There's a bunch of YouTube Videos showing it on FairladyZ's and etc... Some nice video showing the old Hitachi Distributor it replaced, and if you understand Japanese, probably some nice technical discussion as well. Sourced from The Netherlands, check it out, jump around the website they have distributors for most anything out there. Flying Magnet by the look of it. If someone NEEDS to keep the vintage distributor look, IMO this is loads better than a Unilite! http://www.123ignition.nl/id/50.html Looks like Paradise Parts is the US Distributor... Paradise Parts tel: 440-668-8164 sales@123ignitionusa.com www.123ignitionUSA.com
  13. Okay guys im totally stumped. The car is a stock 1977 280z with a n47/n42 and stock distributor. I am attempting to megasquirt it v3.0 board msns-e 029y4. I cant get the vr sensor to read rpms or better yet i cant get tuner studio to see rpm while im cranking. I built this board myself, everything looks good. Both trim pots are 18+ turns ccw. Ive wired the vr sensor backwards nothing. The only way to get that rpm gauge to move is to short the sensor and tap the connector together. I dont own a scope but i do have a multimeter. I dont have a stimulator but theres one in the mail, It will be here soon. I have no idea whats going wrong, As far as i know it should be triggering. Please help. pictures of the board are attached. thanks
  14. So I really hate to do this to my pride.. but I'm not super great at this stuff and I just want to make sure I have my settings and setup "generally" correct so I don't blow my engine or ~$400 ecu investment up. I would greatly appreciate any constructive advise as to what setting are wack or what should be corrected immediately via me being a noob. I honestly went through the the "http://www.megamanual.com/mt29.htm" and did the best I could to follow along but I'm just nervous about my work all I'm asking is to look over my MSQ and give some advise for the parameters I have for my setup I will include other information and try to be as clear as possible. so my set up is Car- 1975 280z 2+2 Engine-stock 1983 L28ET P90a head Stock bottom for 1983 turbo I think the "Fwhatever" N42 plenum standard Coil Megasquirt 2 v3 code 2.92 -megasquirt setup is as follows- I built this up via the http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm I built the ecu per the diyautotune site's advise to "Build the ECU up to trigger from the Hall/Optical Input" - I followed the "mods" for the ms2 in this article http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm I DID NOT INSTALL THE VR CIRCUIT, PWM IDLE VALVE OR THE PWM FLYBACK FOR THE INJECTORS.. I was under the impression that they weren't required. for step 65. I chose to go the direct coil control route (I have BIP373 if that's of any useful information.) through the whole installation I did the appropriate tests and all came back how they were supposed to so I figure that I at least did that part basically right. as for the Specific information about my setup I am using the '83 dizzy from the with the stock trigger wheel Stock throttle body w/ 240sx tps adapted Stock injectors with 25watt 6 ohm resistors.....I do not have the pwm flyback circuit (I installed it and bench tested it with the stim and I believe I didn't have enough resistance "or a short" between Q9\Q12 and the heat sink because my ecu basically stopped working....so I removed the circuit and now it works exactly like it used to.) I don't have the MS relay board. so I had to wire my own relay and junction box up, but I will get the relay board soon. I will attach a paint file with how my wiring harness was done...if interested. maybe diagnostic reasons or to laugh at how I shouldn't be an electrician. I spent a lot of time looking for someone with a similar build to mine using the stock dizzy and a standard coil instead of a hei/vr setup to use as a reference for the dwell parameters and the other settings but I wasn't too lucky so I spent a lot of time reading the tuning section and getting confused. so here is my current MSQ please help and ask as many questions as you need I will answer to the best of my ability. any feedback would be lovely since I've had this car for about 2 years and have been fucked over and ripped off multiple times. any help is greatly appreciated 2013-07-21_02.14.43.msq.zip
  15. Well here it is, my first build thread on this site. I am looking forward to see what comes out of it. Coming from a 350z, building a 240z is totally different. This is my first time working on a turbo car! I wanted to find a nice platform I can build upon. Here are Pictures: Mod List: ZX F54/p79 w/new Ishino head gasket installed, 160 psi across the board Dished turbo pistons T3/T4 turbo .63 /.60 IC piping in 2.5" and eBay intercooler BOV NA cam N42 non egr intake 440cc Supra injectors Pallnet fuel rail +1 extra 240sx throttle body w/spacer + 1 extra spacer ZX I/R alternator MegaSquirt 1 on 3.57 board 3 row aluminum radiator + 1 extra Electric slim fan + 1 extra 3.90 rear end 5 speed trans AEM wideband sensor & digital gauge All new urethane bushings except the diff mount and tc rods Rear strut tower brace Spindle pins replaced with aftermarket Fair interior (no holes, nothing conspicuously missing) 1 year old quickie spray Mopar 70's Sublime Green body (jams and interior remain yellow), flat black vented 280Z hood BRE spook airdam and MSA spoiler The Good: Body is pretty straight, and mostly free of rust I actually got it tuned and dyno (despite the oil leaks) - and made 214whp and 250 lb of torque @ 10PSI Megasquirt Wired Properly for the Most Part Not much Rust besides Battery Tray The Bad: Rust/Leak in Fuel Tank Front Timing Chain Cover Cracked (Oil Leak) Oil Return Line Leaking Harmonic Balancer Chipped Interior in Really Rough Condition Stock Tach not Wired Up Repair Made on the battery Tray stopped rust but was fixed poorly Minor Rust Holes on Floor Boards most patched up Poor Paint Job I've already started breaking down the vehicle to clean it up a bit.
  16. This is the start to what I hope becomes another great build thread. I picture it ending with a photograph of my Z, shining in the beams of Texas sunlight coming through a massive cloud of burnt rubber. There I am in the driver seat… old, broke and happy! I am an engineer, not a mechanic. I hope by the end of this project and after a few more years at my job, the gap between the two will meet somewhere in the middle. I do not have unlimited time and I have a baby on the way, so I apologize in advance for any long periods without updates or if at some point this becomes another sad part-out page. So far, I have only vicariously enjoyed your successes and turmoil. I’m going out on the same limb now, thanks for having me. Before I forget, many tanks to Matt (if you’re out there) for selling me the car…sorry I couldn’t offer more. Please post as much as you want with input, critiques, questions or moral support! For a little back-story here is my new member post. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105606-south-texas-engineer-with-a-new-75-z-turbo/ Starting line: Price: Every bit I could spare for…$2500!! Layout: 75 280z L28et (seller said ‘83… wiring harness and sensors are 81?) 5speed. It has strong metal everywhere except driver floorboard that has small patch and potentially lower section of deck lid. Battery tray, fenders and all towers are in great shape. Running condition: Fires right up, runs terrible. Not highway safe! Good Mods from previous owner: Very surprising bunch of aftermarket parts for a car that runs terrible! No details on what had been done so far… so it’s back tracking and investigation for everything but the obvious below. It has a “Recent†engine rebuild, no details, in a pretty clean engine bay. JSK fuel rail and FPR and an unknown newer style pump, MSD ignition coil with new distributor and wires, HKS BOV, new intercooler (~10x24x3â€), SS intake piping, KN filter set, oil cooler mounted behind intercooler, filter to cooler oil bypass, single small electric radiator fan, Interior has all new carpet, headliner and dash pad, doors open well and have decent liners. If that’s not enough, 4 brand new xxr wheels and tires! Downsides: Fuel management is no good and frustration with this is why he sold it. I think injectors are almost full open all the time. It spits un-burnt fuel straight out of downpipe onto my garage and starts burning your eyes within a few seconds. Under medium throttle at standstill engine can die from flooding. Oil has heavy fuel contamination after only a few hours of tinkering. Rear-end CLUNK when you shift quickly under load… I have ideas but I am not sure yet. Owner before me could not get hood latch open when he bought it… so he DRILL cut a hole in the hood above the latch to get it opened. No chassis light/electrical works, all HVAC controls removed, gauges don’t work. Status of diagnostics: I fixed an early issue with battery drain coming from a short in the rear-defrost (by fix I mean I removed the fuse) I then moved on with the “ecm connector test†and found almost everything reads open circuit or the wrong resistance. I have determined that the coolant temp and head temp sensor have no/broken connectors, wiring for them is bundled and zip tied. The TPS wiring was cut and then wrapped in elec tape so it only LOOKs like its plugged in. AFM was broken into and now doesn’t read the correct resistance throughout the range. But hey, Intake air temp reads great! Drawing board: I picture having the drive train and ride at 100% and spending as little money as possible to get the look to 75%. Right now I am considering removing all of the original engine controls and going with Megasquirt and maybe even 3.0 with spark control. My reasoning for this is that after adding up just a replacement AFM, harness repairs/connectors and OE sensors I am already almost to the cost of the MS system. I also think it is the coolest thing EVER to have that kind of system in a 40 year old car. So instead of asking the question “do you think I should Msquirt?†I am going over all the other answers to that question and the final product and decide for myself. I may go with just toggle switches for all chassis stuff besides brake lights and have a space for a small laptop to sit where the HVAC and radio used to be to show the extra gauges from MS. *Suspension to be addressed* After all that, its new seats… cheap paint job… and open road.
  17. This is our latest standalone engine management: MS3-Pro with 8' wiring harness The MS3-Pro is able to run up to 12 sequential fuel channels and 8 spark channels. This is based on the MS3, but we've made several changes to make this the toughest ECU we can make it. Some are pretty obvious, like the AMPSEAL connectors and O-ringed plastic case. There's several internal improvements as well, other than putting all the optional extras in one compact package. We've got a more detailed list of its features at the link, but here's some of the highlights: - Traction control and slew control - Closed loop boost control for 2 separate solenoids - Nitrous control - Rally style antilag - Multiple table blending strategies - Supports 2 separate knock sensors with per cylinder knock detection - 8 gigabyte onboard data logging - And a lot more!
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