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So this is long over due. I apologize. I said from the time I started leaching off of Hybridz and the collective knowledge here, that I would post pictures as I started to progress. Well it has only taken a little over 3 years for me to start a build thread. Sorry. So I will try to do my best and keep a thread going of the progress, but I feel the need to start from the beginning. Always loved Z cars and in my teen years in the late 90's all I wanted was a 300zxtt, then I moved on to wanting a 350z and so on. Times changed had lots of different cars, and kind of forgot about Z cars. Planned on getting a project car, and debated between a factory five Cobra, or a 65/66 mustang fast back. All with the same theme. Old look new/newer running gear. A friend posted a picture one night of a light blue 260Z with ccw's, and My mind exploded. I had been looking at and trying to justify the price of a mustang at the time (30-45000 CAD) so when I started looking at prices of reasonable shape S30's I was blown away. I started searching and found a few in Canada. A beautiful one in Windsor- seemed high for price, a couple others (kinda rough) and then some down in the states. After hunting a bunch of ads, and becoming discouraged, I reached out to the guy in Windsor. He drove the car up 3 hours to me so I could see it, and we worked out a much better price. It is a 1971 240z. It was originally sold in Burbank California, and was imported to Canada in 2012 by the seller. He pulled it all apart found no rust - so the car was coated in por15. He swapped out the L24 for a L28 with an E88 head, and a 260 cam. loaded the new mill in with a 280zx 5 spd and an open 3.90 r180 from White head performance. Engine ran awesome and was pretty strong! All I needed to do was replace the brake drums and I was rolling.
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I thought I would share some of the progress on my project RoninZ. Awhile back I wanted to do something different but still make my s30 handle better. Also wanted to find parts easily (cheaply). I asked and search for anyone that had done an s13 IRS swap into the s30 and found some old posts here in HZ and other forums. well I pulled the trigger and canibalized my s13 and put as much parts into the s30. The engine was going in also (sr20det) but that changed which is another topic. Anyway the IRS went in, a lot easier than I thought but, because of engine choice I couldn't use the s13 front suspension, and the z suspension was pitched. So, this brings me to this topic. I did some research and decided that I wanted to do the Double Wishbone/A-Arm suspension. I went with CA Chassishttps://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1556-a-arm-suspension-4x2-crossmember-custom-fit-factory-welded-crossmember-only.aspx Here is the crossmember with the disc before install on frame Here is the top view after install and fenders refabbed. Here is the A-Arms from underneath It included a manual rack and pinion The kit included double adjustable Coilovers and 13"Wilwood brakes (overkill?) Still at the shop and has not been on the road yet. I am hoping to go on Road courses with this car this summer. Thanks guys
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- suspension
- wishbone
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Hi Everyone, Is this possible - putting an 80-81 AFM on a 76 S30? Someone has stated that there will be fuel pump issues as there is no connection for the fuel pump on the AFM (or something like that)? Any assistance is greatly needed. Or if someone has an AFM for a '76, would be willing to trade for this? Thanks, E
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- air flow meter
- afm
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From the album: New Parts
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Hello everyone I'm looking to swap my current not running l28 for a RB20DET do any one of you know where I can buy a complete swap. I live in the vacaville CA. I'll really appreciate any help.
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So I had bought an S30 air dam from Japan this past summer but never got around to mounting them to the car until this past winter. I originally got air dam with turn signal cutouts because I was planning on doing front turn signal swap and going for a 240z set, now I'm not so sure. Anyway, upon install I realized that the air dam doesn't come close to the sitting flush against the mounting points near the headlight buckets. At first, I figured it might be because there's extra material on bottom of the mouth of the air dam but I assume that even after cutting it it still wouldn't sit flush on the mounting surface anyway. Additionally it seems as if the vertical faces on the inside of the turn signal cut outs aren't long enough to sit flush with the inner most edge of the mounting surface. Also when you have one side of the air dam seated flush along the fender lip, the other side is pushed away from it, which leads me to believe that the air dam's overall size is too narrow. Am I wrong in assuming that the 240z and late 280z air dams are similar in nature? I'm very close to just purchasing a fiberglass 280z air dam and redoing it in carbon. Apologies for the lack of light in the photos, I was doing this at about 11 at night.
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Edit: I just realized this topic already exists and is in the correct section.
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- Bumper delete
- Star Road
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Reading at 0 throttle is 220 and at full throttle is 1238. Is that correct? Keep losing signal, have traced it through a spade connector that was loose. Once I have reset the signals is as above readings. Throttle application seems accelerated, as in 1/3 is half.
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- ms3pro
- megasquirt
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So I'm in the upper midwest and I'm not aware of any places near me that would be a good place to test sit in semi-racing seats (seats that hold you better than stock but are still comfortable and adjustable/recline, etc., and accept harnesses), and I definitely don't want to just buy a bunch and return the uncomfortable ones as shipping costs would be stupid. I'm a big guy with wide hips and shoulders, any recommendations out there for a brands/styles that are better for the bigger people, that are type that described above (semi-racing)? Don't really want to turn this into a "what fits into an S30" post cuz then I'll just get a "use the search button" response, but if you happen to know of some bigger comfier semi-racing seats that just happen to bolt up and fit in an S30, try to draw attention to that note haha. I'm willing to make brackets and etc. Just to give you an idea of size, I have a waist size of 46, and if you've ever sat in a s14, those stock cloth seats hurt my butt cuz the wings are too narrow.
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My goal is to swap a 2007-2008 VQ35HR and 5 speed automatic transmission into my 1974 Datsun 260z. I had a 2003 350z with the 5 speed auto and enjoyed it more than any vehicle I've ever had. I still have a set of Works Bell Electronic Paddle Shifters for it that never were installed. I plan to retrofit them to the 260z steering column.
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My goal is to swap a 2007-2008 VQ35HR and 5 speed automatic transmission into my 1974 Datsun 260z. I had a 2003 350z with the 5 speed auto and enjoyed it more than any vehicle I've ever had. I still have a set of Works Bell Electronic Paddle Shifters for it that never were installed. I plan to retrofit them to the 260z steering column.
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This is not a how to,It is what I have done. Mesuring the 240 rack I came up with 24.230" from center to center of ball scokets (iner tie rod pivot point) and a travel of 5.125". The pinion is 7.5" from the center of the housing. The Miata rack's I reviewed are from a 92 and 97. The 92 has a vavle body cast with the gear case and is held togeather with C-clips. This makes it harder to modify. The 97 has a vavle housing bolted to the gear case and the end cap screws into the housing. This is what I will cover here. The Miata rack is 26.040"center to center of ball scokets with a travel of 4.704". The pinion is 8.75" from the center of the housing. Ball scoket threads are 17x1.0MM RH. Center of ball scoket to mating face of rack is (including lockwasher) .740".The travel is limited by ball scokets contact with the housing. Removing the ball scokets allows more travel that is now limited by the distance between the fluid lines less the with of the piston inside 5.354"-.287"=5.067" max travel for this rack. Not as much as the 240's 5.125",But with power steering I will go with shorter steering arms to make up for it. To get Center to center of 24.230" I removed 1.812" off the right end of the rack remachined the end with the exception of the lenght of the small OD witch was shortened to .25". This aera and the vent hole must be polished to prevent seal damage. The housing was cut down 1.582" on the right side and remachined. The thread is 40x1.0MM RH, I used 1.575"x24TPI RH (My lathe is english) A new shorter end cap was made alowing an extra .385" travel. It stops the piston befor it blocks the fluid port on the left. Using a face pin spaner insted of a hex alowes more of the housing to be left in place for the rubber mount. This made up for cutting less off the housing than the rack. On the left end of the housing a counter bore 1.5" DIA x.150"deep alowing the ball scoket to travel inside the housing,and the piston to travel to the edge of the right fluid port. The tie rod's were cut down 2.25" and threaded 12x1.25MM RH. Miata outer tie rod's will be used. I now have a rack with the same center to center as the 240z, and a travel of 5.067". Other problems to address will be the pinion is now 6.562" from the center of the housing (15/16" closer to the motor), steering shaft and mounting made.
- 13 replies
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- bump steer
- 260
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Well my car has been at the point where I can actually drive it around for a while now but I have some gremlins which make it kind of sketchy and I want to try to pin down what my issue(s) is/are. Background of the car: 1976 280z, l28et swap Stock engine setup and ECCS, z31 coil, EGR deleted and blocked off, pop off valve removed and plugged. New battery. Alternator tests good. Brand new CHTS. New aftermarket FPR with a pressure gauge. Brand new O2 sensor. My issue lies in air/fuel ratio... I have a wideband gauge which I know isn't precise but can at least give me an idea of what the car is doing. Startup is difficult, and I'm under the impression that it's because the mixture isn't rich enough for easy fireup. Idle upon startup shows lean. Idle is also a bit high at ~1100 rpm. Not sure if that could be the cause, but I haven't been able to find any indication of idle adjustment on the L28ET throttle body like people have mentioned. The odd thing is after driving the car around and letting it warm up, idle AFR shows normal with a bias towards rich, which seems to be as it should be. Things get weirder, and this is why I think I have some kind of issue with grounds or something. Driving around normally, I can turn my headlights on and the mixture will go from slightly rich to slightly lean. Driving around with the headlights on indicate that it has a permanent issue of running lean with the lights on. I've had a heck of a time finding any indication of what could cause this specific issue, both looking through the FSM and google. I'm hoping someone on here can give me assistance since at this point I feel I'm in over my head. Thanks in advance, Pac_Man
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Just wanted to throw this out there. Which would be the best s30 model to invest in? What seems to make the most money? or get the most attention? Is there a good year or engine size that came out and everyone went 'That's the one to have' Quite ofter the very early cars seem to be the ones people want to collect? Quite often the company sorted out all the problems and by the end the cars were the best of the lot! Take the e-type for instance though, and the early 3.8 roadster series is a GOD and the later v12 is a train wreck in my opinion. I am new to the Z world though and just wanted to know what people thought?
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Hi Everyone! I'm new to the forum and looking to buy a 240z. However, I do not have much mechanical knowledge when it comes to cars. I've been reading and reading and it seems like when looking for a Z, the number one thing I keep reading is to avoid rust as much as possible. I found a 1973 240z for sale locally and wanted some advice on this car. It definitely has rust but I have no idea how much is repairable. I have about a $30k budget, but I'd like to spend about $5-8k for the car and then budget for a minor restoration (get it in good running condition, paint, wheels, and an interior clean up). I am not a mechanic in the least and would be relying on a local mechanic to do a majority of the work. Here is what the seller told me: I'm not in a hurry to get a Z and can afford to take my time to get the right one. I thank you in advance, any/all help is appreciated. ad: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/5132503075.html pics: http://imgur.com/a/5jFXg
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hey guys I currently have a stock 76 280Z and i was wondering if it would be possible to get 16x9 with a 15 offset on without the use of flares ( not a huge fan of flares ) im pretty sure i would need to get my fender rolled but i still need some more knowledge on this. If i could fit them what about tire sizes and etc ? Also i may lower the car with eibach springs in the next couple of months will i still be good without the flares then ? thank you for any help
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Recently replaced my fuel system on 70 240z. Started it back up last night after a few months of been idle. Started up a little lackluster but nothing uncommon. After two minutes of rough idle the carbs started to stutter or burble. I'm adding links to the youtube clips I took. I didn't run the engine for much longer just incase. Fuel system: tank - filter - pump - regulator - manifold - carb - carb - carb. Any thoughts? https://youtu.be/holqzub_U8w https://youtu.be/UyFgPYs0-fA
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So yesterday, my car was totaled. I was at a red light at the bottom of a bridge, and on the left lane there was a guy who was pushing his car because he was having car problems. 30 seconds into waiting for the red light to turn green, I looked into my rearview, I saw a Honda coming at me at least 45 mph. I saw him 2 seconds before he hit me, so I braced for impact. He pushed me to the other side of the intersection. I tried to exit the car but the feders trapped the door, so I climbed out the window. I went up to the driver and asked what happened with him and told him off for being reckless. He told me that he was distracted by the guy pushing his car because he wanted to help him out. So I called insurance and cops took a report. Today the adjuster came and said the car is a total loss. He said they'll get back to me within a few days with an offer. I've put a lot of time and money restoring this car, but I have a feeling they will try to lowball me. Has anyone had a similar experience? How much were you compensated? How can I make sure I get back what I put in?
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I am currently working out a L28ET swap into my current 1974 260z w/ automatic transmission. I have noticed that the automatic transmission itself is listed as fitting 1972-1983. Can I bolt my L28ET to my existing transmission or is there something else that I am missing or need to be aware of? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
- 3 replies
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- transmission
- S30
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As you all can undoubtedly tell I'm new to the forum and decided that I might as well document my build for my own purpose of keeping track of things and organizing my plans and thoughts. This is the first time I've created a build thread for any of my projects so bare with me and don't pile the BS up to high, I'm kinda short and I don't swim to well in the green stinky stuff. I've always loved the look of Zs and I have wanted one for quite sometime. The opportunity has presented itself recently for me to get one from a co-worker who has decided to part with an extra "parts" car that he has a few miles from my house. I checked the VIN tag and it appears to be a '75 280z. The engine and manual trans are in unknown condition and the body is in desperate need of paint and some rust repair, but what neglected S30 doesn't need all of those areas fixed. All of that a side the cost of the car is pulling the LH door for him to install on his '70 240z or find an acceptable replacement for his current door and the car is mine. A couple of days after being told that I can have the car a local classifieds had a fairly complete VK56DE out of a 2005 Armada for free with a spun #4 rod bearing and otherwise pristine internals. The seller included a fairly complete engine wiring harness, injectors, fuel rails, intake, block, heads, internals and oil pan as well (some items are already removed and on the shelf). I've always liked the raspy growl of ITB injections setups but can't stomach the price tag on my salary, but while looking around at a few other VK56 builds on other forums I decided that if I'm going to go thru the all of the fabrication headaches of stuffing the beast in I might as well go big or go home. So I researched some different options using extrudabody, gsxr throttle bodies and a few other motorcycles until I came across some really inexpensive BMW units on ebay. I paid $2 and shipping for 4 throttle bodies in a bulk buy and they arrived last friday, and another one is on it's way with the injector and TPS for under $20. I'm on the look out for some good deals on the remaining three units. These ones have a stock 336cc/min injector vs the vk56 286cc/min from what I've been able to find online, they also have a straight thru 45mm ID and the injector will clip right into the factory VK fuel rail. I haven't decided if I'm going to use the BMW injectors for sure yet, I'm thinking initially I will just install the VK units with a small press fit bushing to reduce the bottom sealing boss to 14mm from 16mm. I already ordered some replacement shaft bushing as they are a known problem for the BMW oilheads and talked to a few friends about linkage and shaft design. I think I can get an 8mm precision stainless shaft to run thru all 4 on each side and then put a cam arm on each bank with a solid link to a torque arm and cable pulley in the center done failry easily. Once I finish getting the adapter plates for the head to throttle body modeled in solid works I'll be able to get a better idea of the specifics. The spun rod and crank need to be addressed first though, but I've got some mad scientist ideas for that in the back of my head too, we'll see what the engine shop machinist has to say first... As far as drivetrain goes I'm still researching and trying to decide what transmission option will be the best in regards to price, ease of conversion, longevity and power handling capabilities. The top two choices currently are a Z32 manual or a CD0009. Differential will initially stay the stock open R200 until I get the bugs of the engine and trans swap all worked out and then as funds and the necessity for stronger parts come into play either an R230 swap of some form or the Ultimat IRS 8.8 that wfritts911 has worked out in the drivetrain section. Just clarify for those still reading this I am well aware of how difficult and intense this swap will be and that many people all over the web have started, talked about and never completed the swap but there are some who have paved the way in S130s, buggies, 240sx, 350s and 370s. All of that being said this will be a pretty drawn out and long process as I don't have a set pool of money to just throw at a project until completed. I've got 4 kids and I'm the bread winner for our family working 1 full-time and 2 part time jobs. I do how ever have some very good connections with a few local machine shops, mechanical engineers, fabricators and professional welders. I also work full time at a government shop where I can use any of the tooling and facilities after hours that I don't have at home as long as I clean up after myself. That's about all I can stand to write for now, as things progress I'll try to take lots of pictures and document as much as possible.
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So my build is coming to an end. Spare wheel well has been cut out for the f body fuel tank, gauges are ready to be installed. One last thing at the VERY VERY end, is the exhaust. I've heard a lot of people go 3 inch. I'm wanting to learn towards 3.5 single from 3inch collectors to a 3.5 inch y pipe through a resonator and a muffler. I really really want to avoid drone. And i REALLY want to avoid having to do a true dual out setup. Here's what I got so far. 4inch intake into stock ls1 from 2000 SS sanderson block huggers from JTR, ceramic coated 3 inch collectors. WANT TO GO TO 3.5 inch y pipe, to a resonator, and a muffler, then out. What do you guys think? How would it fit under the s30 body? Am I looking for too much with a 3.5? ANY sound clips are welcome. I've been coming through youtube to find a good 3.5 inch exhaust note, but i've been seeing a lot of STATESMAN machines from australia. PS, I want a smoother throaty sound than a cammed sound that seems to want to rip through the pipes. Maybe that has a lot to do with what tips? =T
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Guys, I haven't been active on this forum for over a year because I've been out in the garage building. My 1977 280Z conversion to a 5.7L (350 cid) TPI V8 with World Class T5 is now complete, sort of... After weeks of startup attempts and reading SES codes I'm not much closer to firing it up. I did find a bad fuel pump relay and replaced that. I temporarily relocated my battery from the cargo area back to the front to shorten the cables, just in case. I verified 46 psi of fuel pressure at the rails, and spark at the plugs. I've tried to start it so many times now I'm getting concerned about re-priming the oil pump. I've been very careful over the two year build using the Helms and GM factory manuals as well as JTR Z V8 and TPI/TBI manuals. My wiring connections were done well. I've added temp-switch controlled electric cooling, Vintage Air AC, upgraded the suspension and brakes, and replaced the fuel and return lines with 3/8" steel tubing and AN-8 fittings. Both cars ran when I started this project. I think it is time to enlist the expertise of a professional auto electrician to figure out what I have missed, or what I may have wired wrong. I kept detailed notes and made new wiring diagrams for everything I changed or added. I kept the VATS, Resistor key, VSS, and all sensors. I've been back over all of those looking for any mistakes and don't see any. But electrical work is not my area of expertise. Can anyone recommend an electrical expert in So. Calif. (I'm willing to trailer the car) who really knows, and is willing to work on a Z conversion? For those of you with years of experience, I know the 5.7L never came with the T5, so I swapped out the 5.0 for a 5.7 in the original car to sort everything out before starting the Z swap. I even had to have it smogged that way before the swap due to bad timing (it passed). The WC T5 is for insurance against excessive torque, but I did not use/test it before starting the swap. It has no impact on my current problems. I also welcome informed input from members of this forum who has successfully done what I'm attempting to do. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Steve
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I would like to purchase a decent condition rear hatch for Datsun s30 coupe. I hope that the part has minimal rust. Glass is not needed. Please send your offers with pictures to my private message or by e-mail make114@gmail.com
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I'm looking for a rust free and overall clean s30 hood in the Houston Area. I have no preference concerning which style either. Just let me know what you have. Feel free to send me a PM or leave a response here with the details. Best Regards Anthony